Hammie1982

realistically there are 2 options for doing what your asking about. 1 is spacers and 2 is lower offset wheels. Spacers have been given a bad rep for years, but yet noone will give lower offset wheels a bad rep for doing the exact same thing only in a slightly different way. Infact it would be my opinion that 10mm spacers are going to put less additional load on the drive train system than changing a wheel from a 255 to a 275 or even 285 profile on a lower offset wheel but i would be more than happy to recieve any explination as to why i might be wrong on this from someone that knows more and has tangiable reading material to show otherwise. Yes i know some people have taken these things to the extreme and put 70mm+ spacers on a car with just elongated bolts and not used the safer bolt on hubcentric options that are also available (Just to emphasise that i am not suggesting either option as being better than the other, I am merely pointing out the 2 options that i would be aware of that are not a huge cost in an attempt to answer the original query within the confines of the terms they set out in their query)

If the headlights have been changed in the car due to accident, upgrade etc. Its very likely you will have to code the headlights to the car. has anyone checked fuses or even put a multimeter to the car to see if there is power getting to the right systems? That would be my first port of call after that, id be taking the car to someone who has the equipment to code things correctly and get it all coded in and checked out properly. A car without full beam capability will not pass mot inspections (if they are carried out correctly)

Bodge, Sorry i came to this so late. I was going to point you in this direction. I dont often come to this forum due to the "everything not stock is wrong" attitude that i have previously experienced. Hope you got your camber sorted!

Regenerate the DPF and Have the EGR cleaned out aswell. a large proportion of the time if your DPF is clogging up from shorter journeys, then your going to need to clean out the EGR Valve too.

ill be quite honest, there will NEVER be an issue with the DPF in my wifes car again (unless someone goes to inspect it that is)

You might find that its like the one in my wifes Seat Alhambra. I found it was clogging up alot so got a scope and put it down into the DPF (removed from the car). couldnt see anything so i put a bung in it and poured a load of DPF clean into it, and left it over night. Then i used a DPF Rinse fluid and gave it a proper clean out. (all this was done after a forced purge while on the car) With the scope i was able to see a crack in the DPF Material inside the unit (fairly big crack) which required a replacement DPF (or a DPF Delete)

I think this query would be best answered on the ODB 11 Forum and not a general Audi fan base forum. Not saying you wont get the right answer here, I just think the guys over there would be in a much better position to be able to answer that question than a simple occasional end user. For what its worth looking at the the image in this link https://imgbb.com/LCtLsH3, I think you can see what software is installed but i wouldnt swear on it.

Ive just done my own lights with a Maguires Headlight restoration polish and a hot air gun. I used the hot air gun first and that took quite a bit of the cloudyness out of the glass (being careful not to overheat the glass) Then used my drill mounted polishing pads and some tape around the edges that i didnt want to touch with the polish. a small bit of water to keep the heat under control and polished the glass with the 3 different grades of pads. Keep it slow and steady and youll be fine. If your really uncomfortable doing it yourself, speak to your local detailers and they will be able to do it for you.

Robert, I dont know how a bearing issue would be causing a misfire, unless the piston slap was REALLY bad and then you would be loosing oil and it would sound like a bag of spanners in a washing machine. What are you using to diagnose the issue? Is it a garage computer or a private VCDS / other ODB plug in unit? It should be able to pinpoint where the misfire is coming from! I have seen reconditioned / reprogrammed injectors throw up errors in the past. Especially on remapped cars. It might be worth getting a second opinion on the bottom end, as without hearing the car or knowing the fault codes, anyone could be throwing darts into the air and waiting to see what fault it picks.

The Buzzer itself is part of the cluster. if its the buzzer then its (unless you are a master craftsman with it comes to soldering) a replacement cluster thats needed. Completely cost prohibitive in my opinion. As for testing for errors, yes you can throw VCDS on the car, but i dont remember ever getting an error on the computer for this problem (ive had 2 different cars that suffered with the same thing... an A4 and an A3). What i might suggest before you go ripping into the dash to look at the rear of the cluster, is checking other connections around the dash. particularly around the light switch or the indicator stalk.

is yours a BOSE system or what one is in your car? Theres a fairly common issue that the Rear Window Washer, leaks and then corrupts and corrodes the amplifier boards. What i would suggest is while your in there, seal up any of the joints etc where the water can leak from or reroute the washer line

they are an absolute pain in the bum to change. but going in thru the wheel well is the quickest and "easiest" Make sure you have a axel stands and not working under there with the car held up by the jack. I use wheel blocks and axel stands every time now after a near miss some years ago that seen a shogun fall off a jack and narrowly miss taking a friends arm off at the shoulder.

Sounds like the Amplifier issue to me. The amp as far as i remember is in the rear 1/4 panel behind the boot linings. theres 2 connectors on it, one small square (white) and the other is a long brown connector with a locking pin on one end and a hook on the other that holds it in place! Should be fairly easy to remove but without it being in the car i dont know how your going to test it! Its possible that one of the connectors has come loose and thats why your not getting any sound, or maybe you have a blown fuse / broken wire on the line to the amp.

Clifford, Thanks for the reply. Ive taken the connectors off and given them a good clean, ive checked all grounds and everything else i can think of before considering replacement bulbs. I checked the price of bulbs from Audi and they quoted me something ridiculous like €150 per bulb.

James, What year of Q5 are the wheels off? I can check the PDC, Offset etc for instance the 2.0tfsi Q5 2008 - 2012 has an offset of 37 - 41 where the A8 3.0 Tdi 2005 has an offset range of 43 - 47. As far as i remember (i can double check later) the OE 20's came with 255/35R20 ET43 (the 18s were et45 & 17s were et43)