Jonew

Best I can get with this phone like I say it’s smaller than a 5p, it was stuck next to the oil sensor along with a tiny piece of plastic.. no filings in the oil or filter..

It’s metal, sheared off. Smaller than 5p.. Looks like part of the tensioner if I’m honest ..

Had a previous post a while ago, but I’ll start fresh.. cam tensioner had broken so removed head and inspected valves etc no damage,all ok.. rebuilt top end and it started fine.. I decided to replace the oil pick up pipe as it looked like oil had been starved to the head.. I found this in the sump, any ideas what it is?. Audi a3 2.0tfsi 2005

My issue was the cam shaft chain tensioner had collapsed along with the key way being broken on the vvt causing the timing to be out.. luckily it hadn’t bent any valves and is now back up and running.. you can check timing manually and also through a good diagnostic tool

Thought I’d update.. lapped in all the valves, refitted the cams,retainer etc and moved on to the chain.. the key way is missing/broken in the cam timing sprocket .. had to order a new one so delayed again

Have all the necessary tools according to elsawin..

Cylinder head has been tested and skimmed.. all valves have been tested too, none were bent..(forgot to order grinding paste) head gasket set,timing chain and piston rings arrived today, Audi was really good in giving me the revised part numbers which they changed in 2011 for this axx engine .. have the manual from Elsawin also anything I missed?.

Bores look ok.. didn’t see the cams turning during compression test but could see the camshaft pulley turning along with the crank.. When manually turning the crankshaft you could see the cams turning.. I know these engines have an oil burning issue, so when I remove the sump I’ll probably take a look at pistons, pick up pump etc it’s all a learning curve, just making sure I look at everything I can .. cyclinder head goes into shop next week for skim etc.. edit: there is slight movement in each piston(really slight) and because I didn’t do a leak test I think my best option is to replace rings and bearings. im doin this in situ as I don’t have a hoist so any advice is appreciated

Had the cam cover on and chain cover too when I did the compression test. however when I stripped it down, I had to turn the crank to time it up and to align the camshafts to allow the locking tool to fit and both was turning, but Ofc the inlet side was almost a quarter turn out. had to remove chain to get the cams too line up.. after seeing the inlet cam so far out I thought I’d definitely have some bent valves but so far they look ok and the pistons haven’t been touched.. the carbon build up is the worst I’ve seen so still undecided to replace valves or not.. exhaust side will clean up nice though.

Perfect thank you

Ahh ok I didn’t ask them about valves, got a quote on skim etc I’ll do that thanks

Stripped it down completely, pistons are ok.. doesn’t seem to have bent any valves either (looking from the naked eye) im going to send the head off next week for a clean,skim and porting .. I’ve enclosed some pictures, should I replace the valves anyway?. thanks

My tensioner has been demolished,chain still intact .. I asked about timing marks earlier but didn’t get an answer so I managed to download Elsa .. all videos etc show replacing chain but none show broken tensioner.. stripping it down tomorrow to see how many bent valves there ..

Tools arrived today so looking to get back on this in a day or two.. maybe a silly question but is there timing marks on the camshafts where the chain was?. as it’s out of time due to the tensioner breaking,I’ve seen posts on replacements etc but none show a broken chain etc I’ll time up the belt side etc before I start and crack off the torx bolt but won’t remove the broken tensioner or chain until I know I can’t get it wrong thanks all

Thank you was my thinking too, waiting for a few tools so will be looking at a week before I get back on it.

Update.. chain tensioner has been destroyed, not sure if valves are bent etc but the carbon build is really bad.. opinions, replace chain and tensioner and see if she starts or remove head and just replace valves etc ?. like I say the carbon build up is really bad so I’m thinking just remove head, replace valves etc possible skim and port too?.

No need to apologise I need the help as im unfamiliar with these engines but I must stress I’m not looking for cheap repairs just the means to point me in the right direction

As I said before it’s a project.. im more than happy to pull the head, I’ve looked down the spark plug holes and see nothing obvious(used a scope). I’ve almost removed the inlet manifold so that should also give me a good look. i cannot stress enough that I’m totally happy to rebuild this if it can be, I’ve set aside a budget and even if it takes a year I will do it. i don’t intend to sell for profit etc if I can get this thing going then I’d like to see what I can do in terms of making it faster etc goal = rebuild if possible,better and faster ..

I’ve removed the cam cover and can see no obvious valve damage etc im going to remove the head but am waiting for some spline drive bits.. anything I should be weary of removing the head etc ?.

I am trying to remove the cam cover bolts etc but my torx bits are poor quality so I’ve ordered some good ones, I’m then hoping to take a look at camshaft/valves etc

Second compression tester used and still shows 0 compression in all 4 cyclinders. I’ve had a look in the bores with a camera and see nothing obvious. I’ve rotated it by hand and checked for tdc and to make sure pistons are not just floating in the bores.. im in the process of removing the head but the torx bolts have broken torx bits so waiting on some more.. IMG_5219.mov

So timing is good,I’ll enclose pictures to show top and bottom marks. I’ve pretty much put it back together to take a video of the engine cranking IMG_5189.mov

I wanted a challenge and certainly have one, I have a budget in mind and the end goal would be to see it back on the road and possibly running faster than before but I’m also not stupid. its the reason I joined this forum, to listen to people who know these engines better than the tyre kickers I know . i will keep this post updated and I hope to have a diagnosis by the Tuesday at the latest .. Thanks for the support

It cranks (starter certainly sounds normal) normally as I replaced the battery but I felt the noise from exhaust and the sound from the engine could be low compression then I did a c/t test but obviously it read 0 so I started checking the timing . im going to put it all back together today then repeat the c/t but with another tester. someone mentioned the ecu because there was coil packs in the boot and they suspected no spark.. too many chefs i think is the phrase but absolutely going back to the start on this one today I’ll post a video on the cranking etc in the few days .

It just doesn’t feel strong on cranking but it’s been along time since I paid attention to a petrol engine, I currently have an electric vehicle .. but yes this is the reason I wanted this car, to test me,to rebuild if possibly and eventually get it too it’s former glory appreciate the support