Rybrook

They won't if they're from a quattro, they will sit too far in the arches. I was looking at different wheels for my 3g2 passat and didn't want to go the spacers route, ended up with C-Class wheels.

When I bought my 3.2 the previous owner had heat spotted the discs, this caused a black substance to form on the disc surface and when braking which made the discs catch and slip and so on, feels like permanent brake fade. A sticking caliper with pull to the opposite side, because uneven braking.

That's the battery tray for the 3.2.

Most aftermarket headlight units are for halogens, the s3 has xenons with drls. I have the same with my vr6, the stock xenons make it hard finding units that fit. It could be easy to turn back to halogen but I can't be bothered, I'll stick with second hand.

I have a similar problem, I have an intermittent no communication with the haldex controller, I noticed mine work the other day in an uneven gravel car park when the rear wheel spun. The esp light does not come on unless it detects loss of traction or there is an abs fault.

The abs sensor is bolt in, there is a Magnet in the bearing face.

When I replaced the rear hub/abs sensor the steering angle light went off only after doing a lock to lock steer. And esp light went off after a short drive.

Yes, the hose I have linked to is the type that is usually on the servo press fit elbow. I just want to eliminate the hard line.

I agree, I did it that way so I could pass the mot with the rear offside bearing/abs sensor. I did however use my cordless snap on impact on the near side hub when I realised how easily the bolts came out with heat. But not everyone has access to air tools.

No worries, with it being on the car I take you you have non quattro, the rear cv joint is the problem as to why I had to do it on the ground. I had to swap heat sources to do mine, butane just isn't hot enough so swapping to mapp gas.

Hi As the title really, I have a split on the hard line at the joint between the inlet manifold joins the bulkhead, had all sorts of lumpy idle problems. I bodged it with a silicone coupler from my nitro rc car exhaust, no more lumpy idle. Are the any issues with using a straight rubber brake hose rather than the brittle plastic one? Something like this https://www.wrightsautosupplies.co.uk/product/brake-servo-hose/ Cheers

Probably the slave cylinder, ours went in the sharan, the pedal slammed back although still drivable you had to flip the pedal back up. Not good.

Heat is your friend for this job, Just a question though, Did you have the hub knuckle on or off the car at the time? With the knuckle on the ground held between the knees, also only using 750mm breaker bar (one hand forcing the socket into the bolt and the other levering the bar. With heat applied a bolt at a time (rapidlycoolingwith wd40) , you will find they aren't actually that tight. 70nm and 180°

It's a Chinese brand android head unit. https://xtrons.com/

It will work if you want to keep the car original, fm transmitters are a bit naff.