Rybrook

You may need check the wiring and the connectors for water ingress, not easy because it's tight. You could possibly get a picture of the inside by removing the road wheel, arch liner access and disconnecting the ignitor. Or remove the unit from the car to check it. I put it on water that's got in somehow and is bridging the contacts.

Range control is the level sensors on the front and rear lower control arms, easily damaged when working on suspension, I snapped mine so 3d printed a new arm from an A6 all-road air suspension sensor. They can also go bad when the abs sensors break.

Hi I got a bit muddled, main failure is EPC. If you just have ESP it's a fault with the traction control and ABS. If it ESP then it could be a sensor at the wheels but you have both lights on the dash, it could be a faulty brake light switch on the pedal.

You need to run a switched live from the fusebox to the aftermarket wiring loom, the standard radio wiring doesn't have the switched 12 volts to turn on when you turn the ignition on. As for the esp fault, Its a main control failure I think. Quite possibly a shorted wire when pulling the radio out.

When you remove the glove box, the is a cable connected near the footwell light, has 5 wires I think, this connects the footwell, glovebox and this

My 3.2 dsg is a little jerky at about 2krpm, like it's going to stall by over fuelling, the mk5 r32s also have this.

You need to get a loom converter, no cutting of wires at all. I have a non Bose concert and fitted a pioneer MVH-S240DAB. Only thing added was a powered dab antenna, the kit came with a patch lead to enable the use of the rear speakers and subwoofer.

Yes it's the multi plug on the glove box, I had this just the other day, I was messing about with my head unit, while I had the glove box removed the light on the dash and in the binnacle were illuminated, the glove box had the passenger activation key switch inside. Switch off when connecting it back up

Least yours is easy, my dsg has 2 drain plugs, strange I know.

Does the end of the thread have a hex/ torx or triple square like the lower balljoint?

The balljoint should have a taper, when it's done up it should pull it's self tight and lock. You can use a jack on the bottom of the track rod to add extra pressure to help tighten it and stop it spinning.

You'd need to get a Bose to iso wiring loom adapter. Also have to run a switched live from the fuse box to the new adapter, to have it turn on when you turn the key.

Is it a hatch or estate? Is there water still in the unit? You could possibly fix it but cleaning up the brass contacts in the connector. I had a similar problem with the number plate lights, there was a small amount of verdigris that was enough to break continuity.

Have you had the HPFP checked? This can lead to over fueling but the injectors should be able to cope. The fuel return line coul be at fault also

There is a consumer delay of about 15-20 minutes, from when you turn off the ignition or unlock the doors. You can see this by either opening the boot and watching the light turn off or removing the key after a journey and waiting for the interior cabin lights to turn off. I have a broken light in the glove box, the switch broke and the lamp eventually burnt out, this caused a parasitic drain till it broke. Only noticed when I swapped the concert radio for a new unit.