Rybrook

It's above the pedal box

Yes, got next day delivery from https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/car-parts Supposedly 2 different ones for the 24v vr6.

Yes the original was plastic. I have fitted a metal replacement, they're not as efficient but will last forever now, easy job 1.5 to 2 hours.

You just swap the stalk retainer, I wanted to do this but couldn't find the cowl with the third opening, then code in the cruise control. There's a YouTube Matty Mcfetridge https://youtu.be/pc_9ovbA6Ug?si=7UVhxRk64tklYwYw

So I've been having some strange overheating issues, the engine and heating are absolutely fine, it's the dsg that was flashing the block of death every time the weather is hot. I drained the coolant, flushed out the dsg oil cooler refilled and it seemed better but still eventually flashed the block of death, so I had been driving around with the heaters on Hi. The electric pump runs when the cars turned off, and also works when it reaches high temperature, so it wasn't that. So today I decided to drop the coolant again and tackle the water pump. I found my issue.

I had a range error on my 3.2, also a 2004 anyway the module is not in the foot well it's to the left of the steering cowl bolted to the centre console, I disconnected it while waiting for a new one to turn up with no errors detected whilst not in circuit.

A manual can be fitted to an auto, but as stated will need all the TCM and related wiring. Then will also need the inhibitor switch to be connected to tell the TCM it's either in park or neutral.

Mine had Le Mans, and I've lowered with just springs, I can't add spacers to the rear because I think it will rub but I've never tried to see if it will.

The TT offset is completely different, I love the TT speedline's but they just won't fit without spacers.

Here is a naff vid of my Passat, it had just done a regen but the metallic turbo noise can be heard.

This sounds like my 16 Passat 2.0 TDI, just normal sounding. Mine has a more metallic sound, I'll get a recording, but I think it's due to the rev limiter and the fact the car isn't moving.

Did the job, long process and nothing broken. Surprised the bolts just wound off after 21yrs, there's no repairing the flexi without replacing, anyway it was cheaper to get a new pipe with all probes.

It was just so I could replace if any needed splitting, I found the sizes on LLL parts, and bought 10 febi replacements. M10x1.5 if anyone needs it.

Hey guys I'm fitting a link pipe from a MK2 TT as the current flexi's are shot and making a racket till it warms up. Question is does anyone know what size the the 6 nuts are on the 3 bolt flanges? Cheers

Hi Sensor is 06A919501B Thermostat housing https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/cooling/thermostats-flanges/thermostats/022121117c-thermostat-housing-for-vr6-and-3-2-petrol.html?srsltid=AfmBOor55tmGg4eNWB05HJqJ8MvRj9zlbuHXUIUS_fk_u6z5sl4X95rM8kU

Is it the blanking plug next to the green coolant temperature sensor? If you can't find a new plug, get a second sensor to plug it, it's held in with a fork shaped clip,

Agreed, there must have been an advisory at least a year or two before. Shouldn't need spring compressors for the rear, once the rear is at full droop there's little tension on it, just need a jack to raise the link when the new spring is installed.

Glad to hear it's sorted.

This isn't a job that can be done at home, the rear transverse links have an eccentric bolt on the subframe and will need an alignment.

Yes that's them, they cause the wheels to sort of split apart when accelerating. But it can also mean the front internal bush?

A broken abs sensor causes faults on the level sensor, I think it's all on the same circuit. I had the same when my rear wheel bearing broke the abs sensor.

Does the facelift only have a rear sensor? My 3.2 has front and rear on the passenger side.

Those are not worth replacing and difficult to separate too, just mark the position of the rear bush and replace the complete arm with new bush.

Could always try wobble bolts, was a thing when people were fitting Merc wheels to vauxhalls, again 5x100 to 5x112.

You may need check the wiring and the connectors for water ingress, not easy because it's tight. You could possibly get a picture of the inside by removing the road wheel, arch liner access and disconnecting the ignitor. Or remove the unit from the car to check it. I put it on water that's got in somehow and is bridging the contacts.