Rybrook

There is a shaped lip in the seat of the shock, I've built them with the oval end down in the shock and the bearing on the flatter round end facing up. I actually replaced the front shocks on my Passat this morning, and indeed it's upside down with the flat round end upward to seat against the bearing.

The 100w bulbs will either melt the wires or the bulb itself will melt the housing. They are for off road only and are not e marked to use safely on the road. I did this years ago in my MK4 astra, had to replace the bulb holders. TBH if no one has replied then they either don't know or haven't tried,

Hi guys, Getting ready to replace the front knuckles, struts and was wondering which way up the coils go. I watched two YouTubes, remove and replace that say the oval shaped end sits in the shock seat and the round end up top that nicely fits the bearing. (This way the stamped KYB and code is upside down) I watched a couple of Mk5/6/7 golf vids also from autodoc and they have the oval end up with the bearing and round in the shock seat. (The stamps are correct) Then looking at pictures of removed shocks from scrapers, the oval end is up top difficult to see fully but you can make out the round bearing and an elongated end of the coil. This has me stumped, can anyone enlighten me please?

You need to get the non Bose loom, this will allow the head unit to activate the amp in the sub and you get rear speakers working too.

Best thing to do is get a sniffer for the coolant header tank, it will detect any exhaust gases in the coolant. I once bought a Volvo 850 that a bubbly dipstick tube, I changed the oil pcv pipes and it never showed up again. It could just be the short runs that are being done.

As a follow up, I have replaced the OSF shaft with an Apec, also replaced the NSF outer CV and kept original shaft. The bolts on the output flange on the NSF all sheared off and nearly ruined the car, luckily I wasn't on the motorway, had just moved off on a slightly busy roundabout. Took a day to do

I'll get the new ones, it's actually quite hard to find the correct ones.

It's not wise but will keep it on the road longer. I will probably get the pair of new ones, I had issues with the offside inner boot on the last MOT, the garage put a bigger boot on and it just popped off as it scrapped on the sump edge.

The top display will stay blank for radio use, will still flash up self test errors on start up.

Yes it means second hand, I'll have to check the inner cup joints, there's a different between manual and dsg, and also differs between years as to which cups are used. I've heard stories about J&R coming up short but I had no issues when I had a new shaft for my import Mazda. I have found new Golf r32 shafts, both manual and dsg so may end up getting them. I did have one found in Germany, but let it go on eBay.

Are your side lights working? There is a fail-safe when the sidelights blow or are removed that the front indicators illuminate, you tend to see golf r32's and bmws with this one permanently.

Hi, not been on in a while I'm having some noise when driving, very similar to a dry bearing, been doing a lot of research but am still coming up short. I have a shot NSF outer CV boot and have the clicking when fully locked left so will get a second user replacement. Question is with the quattro, is the front nearside a standard shaft while the offside is the shorter because of the Bevel box? Im not sure if the part number sticker is still on my current shaft. If anyone can get a part number for the front left quattro shaft will be appreciated Cheers

They won't if they're from a quattro, they will sit too far in the arches. I was looking at different wheels for my 3g2 passat and didn't want to go the spacers route, ended up with C-Class wheels.

When I bought my 3.2 the previous owner had heat spotted the discs, this caused a black substance to form on the disc surface and when braking which made the discs catch and slip and so on, feels like permanent brake fade. A sticking caliper with pull to the opposite side, because uneven braking.

That's the battery tray for the 3.2.

Most aftermarket headlight units are for halogens, the s3 has xenons with drls. I have the same with my vr6, the stock xenons make it hard finding units that fit. It could be easy to turn back to halogen but I can't be bothered, I'll stick with second hand.

I have a similar problem, I have an intermittent no communication with the haldex controller, I noticed mine work the other day in an uneven gravel car park when the rear wheel spun. The esp light does not come on unless it detects loss of traction or there is an abs fault.

The abs sensor is bolt in, there is a Magnet in the bearing face.

When I replaced the rear hub/abs sensor the steering angle light went off only after doing a lock to lock steer. And esp light went off after a short drive.

Yes, the hose I have linked to is the type that is usually on the servo press fit elbow. I just want to eliminate the hard line.

I agree, I did it that way so I could pass the mot with the rear offside bearing/abs sensor. I did however use my cordless snap on impact on the near side hub when I realised how easily the bolts came out with heat. But not everyone has access to air tools.

No worries, with it being on the car I take you you have non quattro, the rear cv joint is the problem as to why I had to do it on the ground. I had to swap heat sources to do mine, butane just isn't hot enough so swapping to mapp gas.

Hi As the title really, I have a split on the hard line at the joint between the inlet manifold joins the bulkhead, had all sorts of lumpy idle problems. I bodged it with a silicone coupler from my nitro rc car exhaust, no more lumpy idle. Are the any issues with using a straight rubber brake hose rather than the brittle plastic one? Something like this https://www.wrightsautosupplies.co.uk/product/brake-servo-hose/ Cheers

Probably the slave cylinder, ours went in the sharan, the pedal slammed back although still drivable you had to flip the pedal back up. Not good.

Heat is your friend for this job, Just a question though, Did you have the hub knuckle on or off the car at the time? With the knuckle on the ground held between the knees, also only using 750mm breaker bar (one hand forcing the socket into the bolt and the other levering the bar. With heat applied a bolt at a time (rapidlycoolingwith wd40) , you will find they aren't actually that tight. 70nm and 180°