Rybrook

The abs sensor is bolt in, there is a Magnet in the bearing face.

When I replaced the rear hub/abs sensor the steering angle light went off only after doing a lock to lock steer. And esp light went off after a short drive.

Yes, the hose I have linked to is the type that is usually on the servo press fit elbow. I just want to eliminate the hard line.

I agree, I did it that way so I could pass the mot with the rear offside bearing/abs sensor. I did however use my cordless snap on impact on the near side hub when I realised how easily the bolts came out with heat. But not everyone has access to air tools.

No worries, with it being on the car I take you you have non quattro, the rear cv joint is the problem as to why I had to do it on the ground. I had to swap heat sources to do mine, butane just isn't hot enough so swapping to mapp gas.

Hi As the title really, I have a split on the hard line at the joint between the inlet manifold joins the bulkhead, had all sorts of lumpy idle problems. I bodged it with a silicone coupler from my nitro rc car exhaust, no more lumpy idle. Are the any issues with using a straight rubber brake hose rather than the brittle plastic one? Something like this https://www.wrightsautosupplies.co.uk/product/brake-servo-hose/ Cheers

Probably the slave cylinder, ours went in the sharan, the pedal slammed back although still drivable you had to flip the pedal back up. Not good.

Heat is your friend for this job, Just a question though, Did you have the hub knuckle on or off the car at the time? With the knuckle on the ground held between the knees, also only using 750mm breaker bar (one hand forcing the socket into the bolt and the other levering the bar. With heat applied a bolt at a time (rapidlycoolingwith wd40) , you will find they aren't actually that tight. 70nm and 180°

It's a Chinese brand android head unit. https://xtrons.com/

It will work if you want to keep the car original, fm transmitters are a bit naff.

Sorry hopefully this is correct. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185943774032?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=g_UaOp-ZS5a&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=jXAV2kTOQHK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY If the xtrons has a standard iso loom then it will work

Do you have the original concert 2 head unit? The big sticker on the top has the wiring diagram Half amplified loom https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291213205704?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=v9O2xiFoQQ6&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=jXAV2kTOQHK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY I think this is the bose one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185943774032?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=g_UaOp-ZS5a&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=jXAV2kTOQHK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Then depending on the year of car ypu will need a single or double facia adaptor To fit in the centre console.

You need to get the loom adapter that changes the audi connections to the Iso plugs that way the colours will be standard.

Do you have the half amplified or bose system? I have the non bose and found a fitting kit with looms and facia adapter for £20 odd on ebay.

You can actually replace the handle, or wrap cable tie on it, Is there a key on it where it will only go in one way? I replaced my interior handle when the lock buttons wore away but can't remember if it's keyed,

I have fitted in my passat H7r hids, there is a metal shield fitted to the lamp that stops the lower part of the reflector bowl throwing the beam off (the egg shapes on the road), leds are far too bright for a standard reflector headlight.

You know I was thinking, could it be the thrust bearing, makes a similar sound.

Yes it would be stub axle to bolted flange, although after having a chat with the mechanic he has managed to find a slimmer more oem boot and will replace it FOC as it was his mistake.

I have a 3dr, my right drivers door is the most used especially if i have the kids in, I didn't bother looking at the passenger side as everything was working as it should. At least they didn't use the biodegradable plastic for the wires like Mercedes did, my old c class engine loom was all falling apart when I passed it on to some unsuspecting buyer.

I have 2 wired connectors, ready for when mine fail. I had the issues with the drivers door, C/L and puddle lights not working, after inspecting the door it turned out the actual lock was malfunctioning, worn micro switches made the car think the door was permanently closed. Good luck with your fix.

Just a follow up, I replaced the wheel bearing and abs sensor. Lights and faults all cleared, looks like the ECU shuts off certain modules when it detects a short which causes other problems.

It sounds like a dry bearing, along time ago I had an Omega 2.5 v6 and the serpentine belt tensioner pulley made this noise, I sprayed wd40 on it and the to see if it would change tone with some lubrication, the sound went and I never changed it. Other than that I can't help, because it's only when moving off. What engine has it?

Hi I need to replace the O.S.F CV boot, it's going to be cheaper to replace the whole shaft, so the question is will the S3 dsg shaft fit the 3.2 dsg? My mechanic has fitted a generic inner boot and it's rubbing on the sump. Cheers.

You need to see which sensors aren't working, if you have the car plugged in you can monitor the abs sensors, they should read the same or thereabouts. Is the abs light on at all?

I had similar with my number plate lights, one side was working but dim and not the other, changed the bulbs and both didn't work. Checked the cable gland, no breaks. Defurred the brass contacts and still no light. Stripped the boot lid to remove the switch. Refitted the the lights with unit in hand. Stuck a 12v incandescent brake bulb onto the connector and it lit up when pedal was pushed. This tricked the bcm so it got full voltage to the switch, then refitted the switch and both lights were working. I still think it was green crustyness on the contacts.