Mark M.

Wasn't sure if I wanted to try and match the aluminium look or go completely different, after what I did today I'm glad I went with the carbon

Cheers guys. Took about 30mins to get the console out, 5mins to fill the dents etc, 45min sanding, 1hr 30min to wrap it, 30mins to rebuild the car. Have to add on the curing time for the filler but if it was being done by someone who actually knows how to wrap it's a fairly quick and easy job. Now debating whether to do the door trims 🤔

When I got my Q5, I was painfully aware of just how scratched and dented the centre trim was. Decided it was finally time to rip out the whole centre console so I could remove the offending trim. Replacing with a standard trim would just end up the same way, the carbon replacements are either too expensive or poor fitting so instead I used some alloy wheel repair filler to fill in all the dents and scratches. After a few hours to cure I got on with the boring job of sanding it down. Got some carbon fibre wrap and set to work. Took me forever to get to this stage but as it was my first attempt at wrapping I expected as much. Carefully put everything back together and here is the end result. Think it's turned out rather nicely 😎

With his attitude that may be a very long wait.

Ctek have a very good reputation. From my Skyline days a lot of owners used to have them connected up for the show cars. I've been using the NoCo Genius 10 on my previous Mondeo and now on the Q5. As standard it comes with croc-clips, but you can get an eyelet connector (or unscrew the croc clips) which can be bolted to the battery permanently and then you just plug in the NoCo charger when you need it.

Tense

Sounds like the problem I had with my Mondeo. You could start filling up but the pump would constantly click off. Eventually got so bad that fuel would be blown out the fill pipe and over me. That was due to the charcoal canister being blocked, the fuel tank couldn't empty the vapours through the canister so it was pressurising when filling up.

Crusher

Wheel

Hope it all fit's ok for you Dave 👍

8R0807819H or 8R0807819H 1RR (same cover but in platinum grey) They should be the part number you need https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204873968501?_skw=8R0807819H&itmmeta=01JK98F4R6J36J3S64YAYTFVES&hash=item2fb370ab75:g:dvsAAOSwRHNmhAAI&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKkFGzie31iNsi68%2BL49Lg0o6phKDsVpQ0Q5zkgk48RBOfGN5dt7UiLaXkbx%2Fd0Psp%2FCLoHNEnX%2B%2FkoMvVq3yARU4G0oR2X2NzvgInPbBf8nglJuMe2XC4CqM4gQmZKOG%2FH7GbyHWvyiKCliJiaj%2FRqHkrQLb7VL62LODY1RobnqAjuoGwx9GYikSRCZsmkMyHA65hmA7r6BsHHz1tksVQItuWX%2FNUgLRFSfA%2BycUBMsBTMNDh6B6DcvdpoAi9Ptzx0%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR57MvKiaZQ https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404403072178?_skw=8R0807819H&epid=1119758931&itmmeta=01JK98F4R6P1SQPSQE0KSFKVY2&hash=item5e284d2cb2:g:qf4AAOSwzhxkwM1R&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKm1%2FX%2BgrdkssRngJOv4VRgy48scL2ZBnDZPBhDx9We5cL0qRU2fvxRbH28Xh2yneynYK%2FhZTpjmRVH6ccMUwmFDQ6EV3iUMSk3i0Y8Gg%2BO6ajGLf7WWTS%2BT3htRNrGR9LpqvJ1NP7F%2Bj3CdBaGYAHfg6fYoN4XO0X7aTTMxGL9BdmoDrEvGchKKVhtALLZf%2FOqT3VriLsind0wbAOI14AcdEiK0bup4hZFUMgokQgC3iIa6pYM%2Bxfb4izDEkEQH7Vw%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6DMvKiaZQ Hope that's of some help to you.

Can you tell me which of these PR codes are on your options sticker? It's stuck on he plastic trim/hatch that covers the battery. 2K3 2K4 2K7 2K8 VJ2 VJ3 VB0 VB1 They all relate to what type of rear bumper you have and should narrow down the part number your after.

Station

Looks like it should fit. Have a look at - https://www.audienthusiasts.com/ProjectSteeringSwap.html

I agree, one of the first things I did after getting my Q5 was go searching for the VAG universal one. Got mine from Aliexpress for about £7 and it's agreed with what the MMI says so I'm happy.

Part number is T40178 Can get equivalent ones from Amazon etc, just need to set the stopper for your particular engine.

Only a problem if any respraying is being done. A good grease and wax remover before starting the prep work should be sufficient though.

Yes, yes I do. I've used it to fix a squeaky hinge, which lasted for 3 days. I've used it on locks, cables etc etc etc and invariably it dries out and you're back to where you began. Though it does quite a nice job of cleaning stainless steel and as a sticker remover.

WD40 is a penetrant not a lubricant. When I retrofitted folding mirrors to my '64 plate the drivers side was painfully slow compared to the passenger side. Took it apart, cleaned it up and sprayed some silicone spray between the mirror and the base plate where everything rotates and it's been fine ever since.

I'm referring to the heatshields between the the engine and the front subframe. This guy points to it about halfway through the video.

I took my rear lower arms off to change out the bushes for polybushes, in order to get the bolt out I had to reshape the heatshield. That was fine on the passenger side, but on the drivers side I forgot to bend it back into shape and it was pressing up against the steering column, caused a lot of grinding and bound the steering up a bit but was all fixed when I bent the shield back out. May be worth a look.

I've felt the effects of ABS and of warped discs. ABS will shudder the car but you feel it quite aggressively through the brake pedal not the steering. A warped disc will cause the steering wheel to wobble and stop wobbling when you come off the brakes.

Could be warped/overheated discs.

Looking on line a lot of 2016 TDi cars are coming up with 308bhp or 320bhp. Can I ask where you're getting 340bhp as standard from?

I've seen batteries with a weak cell drop to under 9volts when cranking but if the new battery is ok then I'd wonder if the starter motor is faulty/jamming causing the power drain.