Chris777

Should it only flow out the side I input the house across the radiator and come out the other side aswell?

Think the purple are EPDM. I tried the radiator flush with the hose pipe to test flowing. How do I gauge if sufficient flow please? I put in larger inlet on left top seems to take a sec then flow through OK but seems to bubble a bit as it comes out not just flow free, same on the smaller right side pipes but doesn't bubble / gurgle. The damage / impact was towards the left. How do I gauge if sufficient?

The rusted screws are in the a/c condenser got them now with all 3 stages you advised. Penetrating oil, then tapped torx and slowly edged it out. The inside connector has O ring seal

Geoff? Sorry I meant Cliff, been one of those days

Hi Geoff the little silicone sealer ring that connects the seal? I norm use black but these are purple? Another question if I may, I have dropped a clanger taking off the slam panel I disconnected the central connector for the bonnet release then someone shut the bonnet by accident so the 2 flaps won't open from centre as not connected. Bumper is off can I push / press anyhow on the 2 side catches to release the bonnet?

Thanks very much Cliff Tried the penetrating oil overnight x2 but no joy. Not tried heat or a swift tap yet to see if will break it free. I think they are a torx 30 but not 100% as a bit distorted with rust. Have seen they have purple O rings that are like £5 each from dealer for one.. crazy. Would black be OK or must they be the purple and must be changed? Guessing can get a pack off eBay or something if have to change

Hi Cliff, hope you are well. I am to the point of removing the AC.Condenser, took most damage.But can't get the 2 connectors off.Any tips?They look like a torx 30.But quite badly rusted on any ideas?

How do I give you feedback/thanks/props on here?

The tap starts when the top pipe is getting too hot to touch and the fans kicked in to try and cool. Temp gauge still on 90 but if I rev it the tick goes away then comes back as it settles it's strange

Thanks very much, The knock doesn't start until it has been running over 20 minutes doesn't sound like metal on metal tap sounds like a pressure release tap to me that's why I thought was related Nothing more to try before a tear down and replace radiator then? I am eager to learn so will give it a shot just hope I don't get out of my depth.... any tips tricks, insights before I have at it. Appreciate you Cliff.

Is there anyone you can point me to for further advice please Cliff? Again I really appreciate your time and replies on this

Ok thanks Should let you click expand in bottom right of those videos and in 720p so should be clear. Is there a bleed nozzle at all ? Any way to check is radiator before removing? Can a cracked block or faulty thermostat be eliminated? The oil mark is on one of the short videos (the title says Oil mark) was like a ring of oil droplets on bonnet padding looked directly above the oil refill cap as if the impact of the crash somehow created high pressure blew oil out of the head and the pressure sensor out of the lower coolant line. How do I diagnose the knock? Why would it go away when rev to 2k then the fan kick back in and a few secs later starts the knock again Any help really appreciated as don't want to make a costly mistake

Thanks Cliff. It's the 1.4 petrol, fan definitely not hitting anywhere I checked. The noise sounds like an air knock of such a thing and is coming from around the oil cap. Did you see the round oil mark on the inside of the bonnet padding I pointed out, could the cap be leaking and a reason for it not building pressure? Is it normal for that temperature sensor just to blow out of its mounting upon an impact? It seems to still build to 90 degrees on the dash ok so presuming the sensor is still good? Is the radiator directly behind the fan sorry? So a/c condenser at the front and an oil cooler in the middle? Is it possible to change the radiator and slam panel without disconnecting the a/c lines? Heard if disconnected Ac then the fans won't engage until regassed? My main concern was that oil mark and sound coming from block poss cylinder head issue but oil looks dirty/old but good no milky/frothy. Is there anyway to check the flow of the radiator before taking the whole front to bits at all? I am new to this but keen to learn. I did a 67 A3 8v for myself but was only panels and some replacements. Cooling and electrical I am a complete novice Any help graciously receieved

Hi I have added the videos into album Audi A3 14 - Chris https://www.audiownersclub.com/gallery/category/3-a3-photos/