CHRI1111

Thanks Cliff, Will it be expensive though as it will be only be the cost of replacement materials (no labour cost). I've ordered a replacement oil pump as I can't see the low oil pressure warning light is being caused by anything else? (I've replaced the sensor and filter, and performed a couple of engine flushes - unless I have an oil passageway blockage...). I should probably replace the chain and tensioner but I really don't want to have to remove the timing cover!! I was contemplating checking the cylinder bores next. I don't want to have to remove the cylinder head if I can help it, though; can I simply crank the engine and pull the pistons and connecting rods out the bottom? If the condition of the bores are OK I will replace the piston rings. If the bores aren't though or the journals are in poor condition I will scrap the car as I can't justify pulling the engine to rebore the cylinders and replace the crank and or connecting rods.

Irrespective of whether these bearings are highly worn or not I'll probably just replace them anyway whilst I have it all open. With regards to the oil pump has the loss of oil pressure perhaps caused the wear circled which seems to be from the outer rotar? Chris

So here are the CR and bearings, and also crank mating surfaces.

Also a picture of the sprocket...

Finally got sump off - there we two hidden bolts at an angle. Oil pump off too. After cleaning this is what it looks like - is there anything there that seems characteristic of a failed pump? New pump ordered but was wondering whether this pump looks knackered to you. The rotar seemed to spin fine and the pickup mesh was very clean.

Can anyone advise how I actually remove this god forsaken sump? I've searched and searched for any remaining bolts and cannot find any. It's stuck solid to the block. I can't even get a Stanley blade within the join and have tried a rubber mallet. I have removed 2 big bolts that connect it to the transmission housing and 18 torx bolts to the block. What am I missing here?

I wish I'd have thought if that.

So the compression readings are: Cylinder 1: 9.5 bar Cylinder 2: 9 bar Cylinder 3: 10 bar Cylinder 4: 9 bar - although it seems take take a couple more cranks to get there. You mention a minimum compression of 140 psi although Haynes suggests 11 bar. If it is 140 psi (9.6 bar) cylinder 3 is within tolerance only. If its 11 bar all cylinders are outside of tolerance. Although readings are low none vary by more than 10%. I'm going to inspect the big end bearings. Is it possible to remove the piston and connecting rod assemblies from the sump, as I don't want to have to remove the Cylinder head? Chris.

Hi, it made no noises at all. I would have stopped for sure otherwise. Seemed to run fine just with the oil pressure light on which led me to suspect faulty sensor at the time. Il take the caps off and take a look as was going to drop the sump anyway for the oil pump. I suppose what's still unclear in my mind is whether the piston rings are likely toast based on the compression readings previously given. The readings vary between 10 and 11 with exception to Cylinder 4 which is between 9 and 10. Can I get away with such readings for MOT purposes? Sorry, bit confusing as the compression readings are in another recent thread. Chris

Many thanks

ThanksGareth, I've give it a go. What's your view on the compression numbers? Low but not terrible...? Are there any oil pump brands I should stay well away from? I want a budget option but not one that will break next week... Ridex, stark automotive, magneti marelli, engitech, NTY, Freccia, JPN, Vaico, FAI Autoparts, JapKo, Ashika, Febi Bilstein, PartsTec, Swag, ET EngineTeam? Any of those? Genuine part is £250 which I can't justify on a car with 150K miles and 18 years old. Chris

Sorry I mean oil pump!

Presumably if I replace the oil filter and this resolves the oil pressure issue, although the compressions are low, it will still function albeit lower on power?

Hi, yes I removed all spark plugs whilst testing each cylinder.

Hi Gareth, The low oil pressure warning light started to show intermittently 12 months or so ago. It would come on, then turn off for periods at a time. I assumed it was an electrical issue with the sensor and have carried on driving it to this day. Obviously can see now I shouldn't have done this! I changed the oil filter, sensor and did two engine flushes recently with correct grade oil. The engine light went for a little bit but has now reappeared. It doesn't seem to be dependant on driving style or revs. Should I drop the sump to check the oil pump?

I may have done something stupid yesterday. I had the care jacked up and on an axle stand to one side so I could remove the front exhaust and cat. Whilst it was jacked I plugged up an oil pressure tester and ran the engine as I was receiving the low oil pressure warning light. Upon a cold startup and at idle it read 0.5 bar. After a couple of minutes it dropped to zero. I could only get a slight reading if I revved the engine. Could it be that jacking the engine on the drivers side only had moved all the oil in the sump away from the pick up tube - and that the initial 0.5bar was from what was left in the system at the time? Is 0.5bar at cold and idle low? PS I've already changed the sensor, oil filter and performed a couple of engine flushes. The pressure light was still showing which is what led me to testing the oil pressure. Chris

It was yes, I unscrewed the spark plugs and performed the test after it had gotten up to temperature.

Yes, I screwed the gauge into the spark plug socket. Took out fuel pump fuse. Cranked over engine with throttle fully pressed for a couple of turns. Took reading. Put a teaspoon of oil in. Repeated test. Took reading. Is that right? It is an old engine so expecting piston ring wear but didn't know if the readings would ordinarily lead to engine light and rough idle.

Hi Gareth Cylinder 1: 9.5 bar Cylinder 2: 9 bar Cylinder 3: 10 bar Cylinder 4: 9 bar - although it seems take take a couple more cranks to get there. With oil added: Cylinder 1: 11.5 bar Cylinder 2: 10 bar Cylinder 3: 13 bar Cylinder 4: 11.5 bar Chris

Morning, Do these compression readings seem OK to you / within tolerance? I have a rough idle and engine light and didn't know if these were to blame. I added a teaspoon of oil to each cylinder and repeated the test which improved the readings leading me to suspect the lower readings are due to worn piston rings. 2006 1.6 FSI 150K. Thanks 20250318_172617.mp4 20250318_172715.mp4 20250318_172824.mp4 20250318_172931.mp4

This bolt seems to be fouling the lever arm for the vacuum control valve that operates the swirl flaps. Anyone know whether I can remove this plate so the lever arm works as it should?

Anyone?

So, these are the flaps cleaned up. They come up new. If I'm getting a swirl flaps error I'm just wondering if I'm wasting my time cleaning and putting them back in though when I could leave them out - not sure if not putting them back in with throw up an error though.

Hi Steve, The delete kits all seem to be suited to a different type of assembly with billet inserts and oil cap. These won't work for my car I don't think as each flap is bolted using two screws into the rotating shaft. Presumably I wouldnt need a delete kit though, if I can simply unbolt the flaps from the rotating shaft from within thd inlet manifold. All that would be left is the shaft, sensor and vacuum control valve. Chris

Sorry, forgot to mention it is an Audi 1.6 FSI 2006.