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Audi Owners Club.

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  1. looking at the available parts for the A6, there is clearly a left and a right so can only assume there are two seperate ones http://www.audiownersclub.com/parts-results/A6-S6-RS6/Gaskets--Seals/174037
  2. Maybe it is to lower the emissions by not cycling in and out so much around idle speed...possibly?
  3. http://www.tyre-pressures.com/models Have a look on this site and see if you can match up an average for the tyre specs...would probably go to the higher reading to start with and drop down if you find handling a little too light or if you believe there is accelerated wear occuring across the tyres.
  4. Hi Marcus...welcome to the Forum! Great looking A6 you have there! Enjoy Cheers, Trevor
  5. Hi John...welcome to the Forum! Hopefully you won't have any issues with your new Audi...have to say, very low miles on it for the age Only thing I have have found with any vehicle with ultra-low miles is that you still have to bed the engine in as it will probably consume oil at a high rate until it has settled in. Enjoy! Cheers, Trevor
  6. Battery connections...loose or corroded terminals?
  7. Loose connections normally show themselves if you switch the radio on and gently move various sections of the wiring or components and see if the radio flickers on/off...then you know what area the fault is in.
  8. Hi Dean...welcome to the forum! I would personally suspect the battery, I'm sure that your mechanic has checked it but if a heavy discharge test is carried out and the battery falls below the levels I would replace it with a quality battery. Let us know how you get on with it Regards Trevor
  9. Hi Ellen...welcome to the forum! Not sure why the air suspension has failed, could be many reasons for it to happen, but would definitely take it into a garage to get it checked...could be a cheap and simple fix Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor
  10. Hi Robin...welcome to the Forum! Lovely Mazda's...I have a Mk1 as well...superb little car and great fun! As for the Audi, I would definitely recommend one that has had proper servicing and 'pampered' over time. The A3 does have faults but they are all easily resolved and parts are cheap and plentiful. Let us know how you get on with your search. Cheers, Trevor p.s. I love the Lotus badge on the Mk1 ....recently saw a nice Mk1 driving around in Elan colour scheme and Lotus decals, looked great
  11. Hi Marcus...welcome to the Forum The car looks great! Superchip is the best place to start for performance upgrage and the panel filter is definitely a good move as allows more flow with better filtration and long lasting. Just ensure it is kept clean periodically and also the sticker is on the air box in case a mechanic throws it and replaces with a paper one. Let us know how the mods work out. Cheers, Trevor
  12. Hi Tim...sorry for any delay in responses. I rate Petronas as a quality oil, plenty of racing heritage to test their oil. The grade is fine and fully synthetic is excellent protection for your engine. As long as the MAF has a warranty with it, should be fine. The best way to get a code is from the dealer as no cost involved...usually they ask for registration documents for proof of ownership. Good luck with it all, Cheers, Trevor
  13. Hi Veronica...welcome to the forum! You could have a look through the following site...see link http://www.audiownersclub.com/parts/ Hope you find one soon Regards Trevor
  14. Hi Jan...welcome to the Forum I'm not entirely sure but if they are on the doors I would imaging one to be on the grille as well. If it's not a genuine s-line, then someone may have added the badges, much like BMW M-Sport, Mercedes-AMG, etc. Personal choice I suppose, I personally prefer de-badging...looks much cleaner. Regards Trevor
  15. Hi Denis, I would say that £170 is not an unreasonable price, but £400 is way too high. A reputable garage should only charge around the £170 figure and still offer parts/labour warranty on the work. As for a garage in Farnborough, I'm not entirely sure but if they are signed up to the Good Garage scheme, that would be a good place to start your search. Let us know how you get on Cheers Trevor
  16. Hi Perry...welcome to the Forum! Definitely going to state the obvious here but I would say you have a loose/poor electrical connection somewhere in the system. I would start by checking the fuses and make sure they are secure in the fusebox and remove/replace the ones relating to the central locking and radio. Let us know how you get on with it Cheers, Trevor
  17. Hi Robert..welcome to the Forum! Not really sure what the best answer is here....maybe wait until you find the right one, eBay or independent trader. Replacing the interior is not too difficult just time consuming. Let us know how you get on, Cheers, Trevor
  18. Hi Ben...welcome to the Forum! I'm not entirely sure but as you have replaced some of the parts that would affect the revs (or lack of them) I would see if it needs reprogramming with new settings for the parts (especially the pedal). On Nissan,you have to dial in the throttle pedal within a voltage range then it works fine otherwise, no revs. Worth checking as a start, but don't also forget checking the Air Mass Meter readings and even blocked exhaust, EGR, etc...remember air has to enter and exit the engine for the engine to run efficiently. Let us know how you get on with it. Cheers, Trevor
  19. Hi Denis I only really buy tyres based on price but do look at premium brands if using a vehicle predominantly for high speed use (motorway driving). In your case I wouldn't have any personal opinion on which of those tyres are better than the others without trying them but I would try to match the new ones to the ones on the rear to maintain the vehicle handling, in all weathers. Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor
  20. Hi Ryan...welcome to the Club! It may be the drain for the Air Conditioning where the moisture drawn out from inside is released under the car. If you dip your finger into it and it doesn't smell of chemicals (antifreeze) then chances are its just water...either that or the local cat has relieved itself under your car, so don't suggest tasting the fluid Cheers Trevor
  21. Just an idea but maybe needs to relearn the gears, so using + / - for a while for the system to load up with the settings??? just an though!
  22. Hi Yang...welcome to the Forum! Not sure what engine you have in your car as there are several different timing belt arrangements depending on the engine. I would imagine that if the timing belt drives the waterpump and the pump was replaced without replacing the cambelt and tensioners (unless they were relatively new at the time) then that was mistake number 1. Generally at 62000 miles/8 years on the original timing belt, if replacing the waterpump (assuming it is part of the cambelt arrangement) you would also replace the belt and tensioner due to the age/mileage...a false economy not to! Also, as parts have been disturbed during the stripdown/rebuild, then this can also lead to premature failure through slightly re-aligned components, belt tension (old belt), etc. Good luck with your quest...let us know how you get on with it. Cheers Trevor
  23. HI Jason...welcome to the Club! What a fine selection of VWs...definitely a VAG man then? Look forward to seeing the Audi evolve over time, you'll have to keep us posted with the mods Good to have you onboard. Cheers, Trevor
  24. Hi Phil...welcome to the Forum! I personally would go for the manual, with the sort of mixed driving you do, there wouldn't be much point in an autobox...different if it was all town driving...but thats just my personal preference Let us know how you get on with your decision. Cheers Trevor
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