Trevor

That is a most peculiar noise .... I can only make an assumption that it is the auxiliary belt or tensioner bearing, or even timing belt/chain as it sounds like resonance (e.g. echoing in a cavity) could also be amplified within the engine bay with the bonnet closed.

Hi Gary...welcome to the Forum I'm sure a specialist aftermarket company could carry out the replacement work but I'm not sure about the availability of the required parts for your car are as yet (either new or used). I suppose one way of looking at it is if the deal was a hugely positive financial benefit to you, then I suppose it could be overlooked that it hasn't got the upgraded systems fitted? Feel free to pop up a piccy of your new Audi when you get it Cheers Trevor

Hi Raj...welcome to the forum Hopefully, it's not going to be too bad an outcome and if Audi carry out repairs under warranty, even better. Please do keep us posted on the outcome Cheers Trevor

we shall look into this as never seen anything like this occurring before...can only imagine that they put your email address instead of the intended person as they are referring to an Air Cond pump. But will certainly look into this to find out why. Thanks for letting us know.

I think a remap would be more beneficial as the injectors will only open to allow more fuel through dependant on how the ECU instructs it at the time.

Hi...and welcome to the forum I'm not sure what something like your TT is worth but if it were me, I would contact a specialist dealer as possibly they may know someone who is looking for that particular car...certainly sounds like a great motor! Cheers Trevor

Hi...and welcome to the Forum I'm sorry but I can't play the video, can you send it as a MP4 please? Cheers Trevor

Hi Lou...welome to the Forum Not sure what you mean by Injection...can you elaborate please. Cheers Trevor

I imagine it's a dodgy fuel sensor, kinda used to it myself on various cars I own so I always drive off the odometer (e.g. 100 miles for £15) and usually bang-on! I still maintain that cleaning solutions and a damn good blast should return the sensors to where they should be...worth trying and at very little cost. I'll try to find some piccies of the 'Stangs but I sold the 71 about 5 years ago as a project as was not ever gonna finish it (after 26 years if you haven't done it in that time, you ain't ever gonna). Do you have any piccies of your 'Stang to post up?

The light should go out from the dash panel after a clean out and several start-ups, but a code should still remain in the ECU memory for read out later. p.s. what Mustang did you have? Over the years, I had a 67 notchback with a six-pot and four-speed manual and a 71 convertible with 351 Cleveland and autobox (had that one for 26 years and never finished restoring it, lol)

Hi....and welcome to the Forum I think overall the A4 sport is a great car with no too many issues apart from maintenance tasks, it also helps that replacement parts are cheap and plentiful to buy. You running issue sounds like it may have been used as a round-town smoker with early shifting up of the gears. More than likely just needs some cleaning solutions put through the intake and the fuel systems. Keep us posted on how you're getting on with it Cheers Trevor

Hey...great result! Now you can sit back and enjoy it after all that hard work.

Thanks, that worked fine I would in the first instance remove the hose clip and hose to see what is occurring in the joint. Maybe when you've cleaned it up to add some sealant when you put it back together (belt & braces!)

The recommended way to retract caliper pistons is to clamp the hose, release the bleed nipple (with a bottle and hose to catch the fluid) and then push/wind the piston in. Reasons being, you don't push the fluid pressure back into the master cylinder which can have the effect of flipping the seals (used to happen on Vauxhalls a lot) and also you don't end up pushing pressure into the ABS modulator. The hydraulic system is designed for the fluid to be forced to the calipers but not necessarily to have pressure forced back up through the system. It sounds as though the caliper is only sticking slightly on the slider mechanism...maybe pull it back off and check and lube up again?

I can only find one interval period from many different sources that all say 60 months/75000 miles http://www.mytimingbelt.com/Results.aspx?ModelId=138

I can't seem to open the Video...can you save it in some other format to upload?

Hi Gary....welcome to the Forum Lets hope you get the battery drain problem sorted and it doesn't turn out to be a nightmare Cheers Trevor

H Christopher....welcome to the Forum I would just dive into the remap and see how it fairs afterwards. Also worth ensuring the car is properly serviced up beforehand and any belts, etc are up to date. Not sure of who to recommend in your area or costs and other figures, probably a case of contacting a few different ones to compare. Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

Hi .... and welcome to the Forum I can only imagine it is binding on one side of the car, enough to pull it in one direction. easiest way to check is the temperature (check with a temp gun to see which side is hotter, if they are the same then not binding) Did you clean up any slider pins (assuming the caliper is the sliding, single piston type? Other areas to check would be brake hoses, any restrictions on them (twisted, hose clamp still on, etc) Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

Hi Tom...welcome to the Forum I'm struggling to see from the picture as to where its actually leaking from but if its the rubber hose attached to the outlet from the alloy unit it may then only be a case of replacing the clip and the hose. Can you post up another picture of the hose and where it goes to. Cheers Trevor

Hi ... and welcome to the Forum It sounds as though it could be a dead cell in the battery, you would need to carry out a heavy duty discharge test on the battery to determine this. There are many other possibilities such as an interior light on, short circuit in the wiring, etc. Would advise getting it checked by an auto electrician as it will soon irritate the hell out of you every morning to have to jump start it. Let us know how you get on with it. Cheers Trevor

Hi Stewart....welcome to the Forum If you haven't already replaced the belt/chain yet, I would consider doing it now before failure occurs. Any reputable Audi specialist repairer should be fine to use, as long as they fit quality parts. Cheers Trevor

I'm not entirely sure but I know VAG group tend to use parts across the makes/range Have a look on this link to see if there is anything similar to yours (VW included) http://www.audiownersclub.com/parts-results/A3-S3/Subframes--Mounts/174094

It would be cheaper to buy another MP3 player to fit what's already there

That's a great result! I would probably try the genuine one and it would also add value to the car with having a second genuine key.