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Trevor

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Everything posted by Trevor

  1. This TSB applies to 2000 to 2014 Audi models including the Q5, R8, A6, A8, Q7, A4, A3, TT, Allroad, A5 and A7. Central locking via the remote control does not work either sporadically or permanently, but the locks can still be operated manually. Missing synchronization between the remote control key and vehicle may occur because the battery has been disconnected or the battery in the remote control has been replaced. If other senders operate in the same frequency range (mobile phones, TV stations, wireless headphones etc.), the remote control key may have been temporarily switched off because a clear indication of the remote control key is not possible. This is necessary to prevent an unintentional unlocking of the vehicle by other unrelated senders. Perform the synchronization between each remote control key and the vehicle: 2000-2008 A4 Open the vehicle mechanically with the key. Press the unlock button of the remote control key. Insert the key into the ignition switch and switch to the ON position. Switch the key OFF again and remove the key. Press the unlock button or the locking button of the remote control key. Model year 2002 or later: If the synchronization procedure was not successful, adapt the remote control key(s) to the Central Comfort System control module (address word 46) using the VAS scan tool. Follow test plan J393-central control module for comfort system, adapting remote control key via adaptation (channel 21). Sometimes following the “erase all memory positions first” test plan produces better results. R8, TT, A3, A6 Press one of the buttons on the remote control key. Lock or unlock the vehicle once mechanically with the key. The complete process must not take longer than 30 seconds. Up to and including model year 2009: If the synchronization procedure was not successful, adapt the remote control key(s) to the Central Comfort System control module (address word 46) using the VAS scan tool. Follow test plan J393-central control module for comfort system, adapting remote control key(s). Sometimes following “erase all memory positions first” test plan produces better results. From model year 2010: If the synchronization procedure was not successful, adapt the remote control key(s) to the BCM2 (vehicle electrical system control unit), address word 09, using the VAS scan tool. Follow test plan J519-Vehicle electrical system control module, adapting remote control key(s). 2009-2014 A42008-2014 A5, 2014 A5 Cabriolet, 2009-2014 Q5, 2011-2014 A8, 2012-2014 A7 and 2012-2014 A6 Press a button on the remote control key within the range of the vehicle. If necessary, open the vehicle with the emergency key on the door lock. Switch the ignition ON and OFF. A6, A8 and Q7 a. Open the vehicle mechanically with the key. b. Insert the key into the ignition switch and switch to the ON position. c. Switch the ignition OFF again. 1. If the synchronization does not help, check the battery of the remote control. The battery voltage must be 3.0 V or higher. If the remote battery voltage is below 3.0 V, replace the battery and perform synchronization again. Check whether there are any interfering senders nearby. Check whether there are any interfering senders in the vehicle. If interference was responsible for the condition, explain this to the customer.
  2. Hi James....welcome to the Forum You could try this link to see if it works on your car (this is for MMI 2G, there is another one for MMI3G in the Technical Section of this Forum)
  3. I think a remap (if done properly) is not an issue as long as you don't push it beyond the limits then you could be into reliability issues. Remaps don't just increase power but also alter the torque for improved drivability and economy. Just find a reputable company with good reviews.
  4. Hi Beejco...welcome to the Forum Not entirely sure of how to set up the system with compatibility of the phone to the car audio but here is a link that may help
  5. Hi Julie...welcome to the Forum It would be good to see what transpires on this topic...e.g. running a list of faults experienced following the update. EGR is a component that generally suffers from clogging up with carbon and is usually a result of using the car on local runs and around town. This issue can be resolved by running cleaning solutions through it (either on or off the car) and then a good blast up the motorway holding in a lower gear with high revs to clear everything through. It could be coincidence or if the limits are lowered by the update then the EGR will fall into being a faulty component. I would try the cleaning solution first....you could try Terraclean at www.terraclean.co.uk and see if that resolves the issue before spending bug money on replacing parts. Let us know how you get on with it. Cheers Trevor
  6. Hi Mark...welcome to the Forum You certainly like your Audi's ! Almost a car for every occasion...pop up some piccies of them if you like. Cheers Trevor
  7. Hi Tim...welcome to the Forum Sounds like a great product you have produced, and being OBD I suppose it's quite universal across brands which is handy. I have removed the last two images as it doesn't comply with Forum policies on advertising but as the other piccies are of Audi's (but still carry your product name on the plates) I can't see an issue with that...always like to see piccies of Audi's. Please feel free to send me a private message with details of your product trevor.catt@autoclubsinternational.com Cheers Trevor
  8. Hi Tom...welcome to the Forum I know there have been some posts on this Forum quite recently on this topic so if you have a scoot through the posts with a search you should come across something that may help. Hoping to put up some enhanced info in the Technical Section once there is enough info collected in the Forum. Cheers Trevor
  9. I would imagine it is a situation with being in line with insurance requirements in this country, same as passive locking. Not sure if aftermarket diagnostic platform could over-ride the settings, or even if it would invalidate your insurance?
  10. There are a few units here (OE and aftermarket) that would fit and improve your lighting and vehicle aesthetics as well. http://www.audiownersclub.com/parts-results/A6-S6-RS6/Headlight-Assemblies/44240
  11. I cannot think of any negatives from getting your car properly remapped (by a reputable company) and getting both power and fuel economy gains. Let us know how you get on with it
  12. I know it sounds silly and even slightly dangerous (wouldn't advocate sniffing exhaust fumes for a prolonged period) but does the smoke smell of diesel fuel or burnt oil or even coolant with sweet smelling antifreeze (sounds like I have some sort of addiction going on here!) ? Maybe a battery reset or signs that the battery is failing....happens like this with top end BMWs.
  13. Hi Matt....welcome to the Forum The first thing I would do is to soak everything liberally with WD40 as the linkages, etc look very dry and corroded in the photos. I imagine the rear quarterlight needs to retract before the roof mechanism is allowed to function. Let us know how you get on with it. Cheers Trevor
  14. Hi Nicky...welcome to the Forum I assume they are referring to the interior mirror as having an anti-glare feature as I'm not sure the side mirrors actually have that facility. However, you can buy some film to go over the glass which should do the job nicely. Doesn't look as it's available at the mo but it does exist so that's a step in the right direction. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anti-glare-Film-Outside-Mirrors-Light/dp/B00YAGCHV0 Keep us updated on how you get on with it if you can eventually buy it. Cheers Trevor
  15. That's an unusual one! could imagine a liner cracking as this is quite common on some cars
  16. I recently attended a Motor Trade conference and one of the presentations was on vehicle emissions and engine performance/economy. One of the slides (which unfortunately I don't have a photo of) highlighted the massive inconsistencies with manufacturer claims for economy. What was amazing was that it seems all manufacturers are as bad with over-claiming and some were hugely over-exagerated. Apparently, the claims were made by running the cars on rolling roads but now they have to (in the USA) run them on the road to accurately simulate real driving scenarios....I therefore imagine the figures to now be much lower and more accurate. You may be able to find an image of the bar graph showing the false claims on the internet. However, that said....a lot of it comes down to the driving styles, road conditions, traffic, etc which in the UK is appalling to realise a half decent MPG....unlike driving in France for example.
  17. Thanks for the feedback...maybe it takes a bit of time with the carbon being loosened up and need to blow it through at high boost speeds?
  18. Hi Mark....welcome to the Forum Usual things to look out for such as regular maintenance being carried out using quality parts and taking into account where and how it has been driven previously are essential to acquiring a decent used car...but as regards specific Audi problems, best flick through the Forum and take a look at recurring topics. Keep us updated on how you get on with finding one Cheers Trevor
  19. You could have a look at this link for various options available for replacement lights http://www.audiownersclub.com/parts-results/A3-S3/Headlight-Assemblies/44240
  20. Hi Dave....welcome to the Forum I don't know what lighting pack you have on your car but I'm quite surprised as Audi were innovators with their lighting systems (HID, LED, Laser) so it could be something wrong with the system, poor alignment or there is a build up of muck over the lenses. Let us know what you find. Cheers Trevor
  21. It would be interesting to know the best results from chipping/remapping as there are so many dealer/installer claims it's hard to find the actual data. Let us know if you find anything that jumps out as the best one for your Audi. Cheers Trevor
  22. HI Jonathan...welcome to the Forum What are the symptoms for the cracked piston and ultimate failure of the engine? Cheers Trevor
  23. Hi...and welcome to the Forum I would say Fuse 42 (Washer Pump) would be the one as it would more than likely be in the same control system as the wipers...maybe wrong though! Let us know what you find. Cheers Trevor
  24. Hi Jo...welcome to the Forum I'm not sure personally of the best way to connect up an amp so I have moved your post into the Audio section of the Forum and left a link here as well in the hope that some other members may be of assistance to you. Hope you find a solution Cheers Trevor
  25. Hi Jody...welcome to the Forum Have you ordered the gloss black wheels as an option or were they standard for the Black Edition ? Hopefully someone will have a piccy of the combination. Cheers Trevor
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