Sid2020

You can jump the electrical side of the valve to see if your aircon pump clutch engages which would confirm what your suspectin. to change the sensor without degassing is usually possible as it should screw into a valve that will stop the gas escaping

This is the Amazon seller I bought mine from and appears to be manufactured on same line as the Audi sold ones. materials and markings matched up and even just had the Audi logo marking scratched off. The One on the listing photo looks like cheap rubbish but that’s not what they sent

Pretty sure it’s the same part number across most the range so will affect all models

Believe it’s a multifunctional relay for main and dipped beam, I would look behind the fuse box on drivers side as relays hidden back there

If you get your slave cyclinder from Audi double check that it comes fitted with the seals, I’ve had to order them seperate for B9’s, also didnt come with the elbow that has the bleed nipple on it. the LUK slave that comes in the clutch kit comes with the seals and elbow already fitted. Il attach a picture of the fax that Audi use for the slave Incase it helps

That’s how Tesla’s work, very impressive when you drive off the ferry

If you have your own diagnostic I would just unplug one at a time and check for codes each time to pin point which is 1 and 2, Should just give a open circuit fault code that clears when reconnected, replace these a lot from rear collision damage and never have a problem afterwards

Should be fakra connectors, give them a spray of wd40 and wait 10 minutes. Use a small pick to help release the tab

Not sure about the A3 but my understanding is antenna 1 is in the roof fin and antenna 2 is behind rear bumper bolted to the rear panel, typically on left hand side

Any reputable brand should be fine, Audi don’t make these parts themselves anyway so possible you get the exact same item but in a different box. Active grills are visible looking thru the front grilles of the car.

It was always in the mmi under car settings. Might have only Been on projector lens headlamps not sure about LED lights. It flattened the beam rather then full LHD conversion but was all that was required

I would check all coding that you have done as if your sure the new door modules are the correct version then can’t see what else it could be

Stevie Q is bang on with a diagnostic scan. If you don’t have a scanner With a helper you can rest a finger tip on each sensor one at a time and you feel a very gently ticking, a sensor that doesn’t tick or ticks a lot slower and weaker then the rest could be failing/failed. The system will time out after a 1 second or 2 so will need to keep cycling the ignition and system to check them all, that’s why you need a helper.

Hill hold uses your abs system so you will need a diagnostic check on this system. one quick thing to look for is does your instrument cluster still know what gear your in, if a sensor has failed and it can’t detect you in gear then it also will not function as hill hold does not work in neutral

Turning cabin heater on full speed on max temp was trick used years ago when the thermostats stuck shut and used the heater matrix to cool the engine instead of your radiator. If doing this prevents your over heating then you may have found your problem. Also worth checking is active grilles, does your car have them and are they working. Should get a fault if they fail but have seen it before. They usually cycle when the car is switched on if fitted but you would need someone to watch for you.