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Sid2020

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Everything posted by Sid2020

  1. Sid2020
    I would look between the intake under the scuttle trim and the interior fan motor. That would be a typical location the sensor you are looking for would be situated. Will be a very basic 2 wire sensor. -50 usualy means sensors has failed/disconnected or broken wire. You can use a jumper wire to quickly test for a change in readings to ascertain it’s the sensor needing replaced
  2. Sid2020
    Ideally you need someone who can look and understand the live data readings that a good diagnostics can provide and try to get the fault to occur while doing this to see what changes
  3. Sid2020
    2 types of auxiliary heating available, common was a electric heater that goes inside heater box behind dash that gives some heat until the diesel engines warm up, other option is a diesel heater that keeps the cabin warm when engine is not running, first type is most common and can’t see why this would cause a aircon problem.
  4. Sid2020
    Will Definitely need to Drop the bumper corner which is not to hard a job, I would source a 2nd hand light as while getting the headlamp Lense of is physically possible it is almost impossible
  5. Sid2020
    When was the last time you got it recharged, you might be right on the limit of ac pressure sensor shutting down the system, remember the system turns from liquid into Gas and back again so a change in pressure is inevitable
  6. Sid2020
    The clutch’s are pretty reliable
  7. Sid2020
    With the aircon turned on the aircon pulley has a centre section of the pulley that is controlled by a electronic clutch, it will operate for 20-30 seconds then disengage for 20-30 seconds, you will here a click when the clutch kicks in
  8. Sid2020
    How have you fixed this. you could swop ballast and bulb from side to side and see if the fault moves with them or remains in the same headlamp. If the fault remains in the same headlamp then it narrows it down either a wiring fault inside the headlight which could be checked easily, failing that it could be a signal fault from the cars module to the headlamp which would require tracing wires from plug to module
  9. Sid2020
    This is a example of what I mean
  10. Sid2020
    If you have the plastic tube in the back of the foam then it must be kept as it’s for the active bonnet. The foam is also there to protect pedestrians from the crash bar as part of the active bonnet system. Some older Audi’s had a thin textured plastic cover that covered the foam behind the grille so this might be a good option
  11. Sid2020
    I cans access your files but The evaporator is the main ac component behind the dash and changes fluid into gas to generate the chilling effect and is usualy silent, I have came across noisy heater boxes when ac in engaged but nothing to load. Too much gas in the system can cause a grinding noise from the ac pump at higher revs but this would be very noticeable
  12. Sid2020
    You need a good auto electrician for this not a workshop, from your description I would think your steering lock module is not powering up on request and this module is part of the security handshake required to enable engine crank,
  13. Sid2020
    When your aircon is on and blowing warm check the pulley to see if the clutch is engaging, other common culprit could be a tired solenoid on the pump, these can be replaced separately on many models
  14. Sid2020
    If anyone does have difficulty with there ABS module with this fault reflashing it using Odis usualy solves the problem
  15. Sid2020
    The longer you drive with a defective clutch you run the risk of damaging your DMF which would cost you alot to replace, I would change it sooner rather then later. My biting point with old clutch and new clutch is smack in the middle. Sacs clutch’s like what will be fitted to b9’s shouldn’t experience bite point travel, they usually just start slipping once all travel is used
  16. Sid2020
    Have you checked your serpentine belt as may be contaminated with antifreeze which would cause slippage under load.
  17. Sid2020
    Have you looked online how much a used one would be, this would be used to just check basic functions as would be coded to different vehicle but should still get high beam function with the stork
  18. Sid2020
    You can jump the electrical side of the valve to see if your aircon pump clutch engages which would confirm what your suspectin. to change the sensor without degassing is usually possible as it should screw into a valve that will stop the gas escaping
  19. Sid2020
    This is the Amazon seller I bought mine from and appears to be manufactured on same line as the Audi sold ones. materials and markings matched up and even just had the Audi logo marking scratched off. The One on the listing photo looks like cheap rubbish but that’s not what they sent
  20. Sid2020
    Pretty sure it’s the same part number across most the range so will affect all models
  21. Sid2020
    Believe it’s a multifunctional relay for main and dipped beam, I would look behind the fuse box on drivers side as relays hidden back there
  22. Sid2020
    If you get your slave cyclinder from Audi double check that it comes fitted with the seals, I’ve had to order them seperate for B9’s, also didnt come with the elbow that has the bleed nipple on it. the LUK slave that comes in the clutch kit comes with the seals and elbow already fitted. Il attach a picture of the fax that Audi use for the slave Incase it helps
  23. Sid2020

    Headlight

    Sid2020 replied to blueboy's topic in Audi Q5 Club

    That’s how Tesla’s work, very impressive when you drive off the ferry
  24. Sid2020
    If you have your own diagnostic I would just unplug one at a time and check for codes each time to pin point which is 1 and 2, Should just give a open circuit fault code that clears when reconnected, replace these a lot from rear collision damage and never have a problem afterwards
  25. Sid2020
    Should be fakra connectors, give them a spray of wd40 and wait 10 minutes. Use a small pick to help release the tab
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