Is the slave not in the box on the c7 so massive job, I’d try master and bleed first as simple to change and if that doesn’t fix then box off and slave and clutch while in there
Sounds like what I had, I changed my master cyclinder and gave it several bleeds using Comma Dot 4esp brake fluid, I used a pressure bleeder as a lot easier. Don’t use standard Dot 4 brake fluid, a mistake I made first time round
I would be inclined to say it sounds like a hydraulic problem, are you losing brake fluid, does changing gear get easier after driving for 10 minutes. If car left for a few days does it get harder to change then usual.
I came to the understanding after sitting thru many training courses that the manufacturers have to juggle giving customers a car that drives good but one that is also reliable and will last well past 100k. Cone filters, blanking egr’s and mapping can be fun but ultimately puts more strain and wear on other components.
Turbo lag when is when your turbo is not spooling up at the desired rate due to a lack of exhaust gas to spin the exhaust turbine, typically being in a gear to high and planting the accelerator will produce turbo lag until the revs pick up enough to produce more exhaust gas to spin the turbo to provide the boost required. Your turbo will be spinning as soon as you start your engine due to the above reason and will increase in speed with more revs.
If it’s second hand then they have component protection on them as tried several years ago to use a second hand one. I think the only Real option is either get a garage to remove component protection and recode it or new from Audi and code it in. Ain’t sure about a individual fuse for multi function wheel
I would suspect that Audi sold them as an accessory kit so wouldn’t have individual parts numbers and sometimes are not available for long. Have you looked into getting your existing trims carbon hydro dipped as the results are very impressive
Steering angle sensor usually comes as a complete unit with the storks and the multi function steering wheel and airbag plug into it. Has the correct part number been fitted as quite a lot or variables. Has the coding been done correct. Have they crushed the loom inside the steering wheel when reinstalling the airbag. Anyone that replaces this without disconnecting the battery shouldn’t be allowed near a car and are lucky not to be picking there teeth out of the airbag.
I believe what I’m seeing is the combined water pump and thermostat but hard to tell from the picture. The crud could also be from a additive that someone has added to seal a leak
Disconnecting the battery resets the cars computers so it may have been deactivated in the mmi. It may be a case of having to climb under the rear bumper and removing the fixings so you can pull it down and access the sensors and control module for the comfort opening, check for corrosion in the plugs and wiring and any visual damage Incase it’s had a rear end shunt at some point. I see the photo of the fault codes had a live data section, this could prove handy while checking the connections
Sounds like a motorized flap may be jammed/broke on the heater box. When you say the matrix was changed I presume just the radiator not the complete heater box
Try locking your car and waiting a few minutes and without your keys go out and see if you can open your tailgate. Just Incase the module isn’t powering down or your key is in range overnight. Always worth ruling out the simple and random things
That explains the 2 fault codes. Do they come back if cleared now it’s working. Trying to think of how that sensor or controller would trigger your alarm or what to try to find out. Unplugging it is one way, is there an option in Mimi to deactivate it.
Your first post says you’ve had this problem since you’ve owned the car so maybe you do have it and it’s never worked and that’s the fault, the sensor wires are usualy on the underside of the rear bumper spoiler fixed into location brackets
Do you have comfort access where you can wave your foot under your rear bumper as the fault codes your getting are not what I would expect to see for a glass sensor
I would try disconnecting the blue wire plug and using a small length of wire with the ends stripped off or a unfolded paper clip to make a jumper wire for the plug on the tailgate loom and see how you get on, clear the faults and see if they come back
The sensor in the lock mechanism should display on the dash if it didn’t work. Also your interior boot lights would remand lit for a few minutes even when car is locked if your boot didn’t detect it was shut. Had that fault myself
May be wrong with this but if you pull your rear panel trim up and off there is possibly a wire that goes to a micro switch that detects the spring loaded plastics flap position, check this is working correctly and activating the switch as easily broken. I know q5 and q7 use this to switch tailgate lights to bumper lights when open and maybe the b9 uses it for another reason
This is the hole that some modules slide into to secure to the frame and that spare wire would plug into that module. Might be for different markets depending on radio frequencies used
If you’ve had a replacement screen it’s possible that Audi only sell one spec glass for each tint and that would be the top spec so any extra connectors are just left unplugged as there would be no wiring in the tailgate for it. Upload a picture of what you have if you can. A diagnostics should also show up if it’s a glass sensor
From memory it’s the blue wires attached to the screen. You can just bridge the wires together to make a circuit. Some models also have these on the qter glasses