Sid2020

Regarding new battery programming, a battery can not be coded to a car, it’s just a battery with 2 terminals, the process involves editing the cars software to inform the car what type of battery cell technology you have fitted and what amperage the battery is, when this is done the battery must be at almost full charge as this is what the software is expecting, this then allows the alternator and start stop systems to work at there optimum efficiency and measure the battery’s health

Had a customer come in with very similar problem years ago on a Renault megane, after probing wires and running every diagnostic test possible we came across that the engine ecu was temporarily disappearing from the can network when the fault happened. We sent the ecu away for repair and luckily that fixed the problem. Diagnostic tests on faults like these are hard as if the ecu is dropping offline it won’t log a fault as it’s simply powered down so as far as it’s concerned everything is fine, if your lucky other modules mainly immobilizer coded ones like steering lock/ instrument cluster and main body module will show a missing message fault

The fans will usually come on and off if you have AC switched on to cool the condensor regardless of engine temp, from memory I think it’s a serpentine belt off and alternator moved out the way depending on exact engine layout to change the thermostat. If you haven’t already done so it’s a good opportunity to change the alternator pulley as they are known for failing with age

Common Good practice is to carry out a pre repair diagnostic health check to A protect the garage from pre existing faults and B to give the customer pre warning to faults that they may not be aware of, I can see this from both sides that to put your car in for a new DMF shouldn’t result in a undrivable car being returned but also changing a DMF while a time consuming job is relatively straight forward. Are the Audi dealership that replaced you DMF saying that the previous Audi garage have a record of another fault saved against your car, if so request proof of this as it’s your vehicle should be accessible to yourself upon request

So pin 1 is a earth and pins 2 and 3 are live feeds for the bulbs and missing pin 4 is redundant on this model of car, have you check that your getting a feed to each bulb and a continuity check from the earth track to a ground on vehicle chassis

So the black and white wire going into the plug doesn’t have a contact connector inside the plug and the bulb holder has no pin either, never seen thing that’s the case and would suggest it it possible it’s corroded and arc’d to the point there missing as the wire would need the connector on the end to hold it in the plug, could strip back the wire and jump a lead from the wire the the track on the bulb holder and see if that solves your problem

Just make sure you reset the system in the mmi everytime you change the tyre pressures but yes your right the rear will now rotate ever so slightly more then the front at high speed on a decent drive , the system is very clever as takes readings from the steering angle sensor to compensate for for the differential in front wheel turning rotation.

Never a bad idea to get a scan, pdc sensors usually throw one of 3 faults, short to ground, circuit open or no communication. Any one of these in a single sensor will stop the system working and so you would get a warning message on the mmi when system activates. I would be looking for a missing message issue between 2 modules relating to the pdc and gear selection/speed as if there working but not how you think they should

Yellow warning is normal and goes away once you drive over a certain speed unless you obviously have a fault, deal with these cameras a lot when replacing windscreens and calibrating them, this sounds to me like a hardware failure within the camera itself unless you’ve had a new screen and the camera isn’t installed correctly

I’ve heard of several company’s in Europe offering a service to open and change LED’s but never used any, can’t imagine it would be cheap either. unfortunately we just change the headlamp as no real alternative,

Had to fix problems like this before and feel for you, the headlamps on these are quite basic compared to newer generations, you best bet is to buy yourself a power probe, works like a voltmeter but indicates if you have probed a live or earth and what voltage, can check continuity and best of all supply a live or earth feed at touch of a button. take time and probe each wire on the car plug switching headlamps on and off to identify each wires function, typically only 1 earth for complete light, larger lives will be main and dipped lives, indicator live is easy as voltage switches quickly, drl is always live but voltage will drop when indicator is on or dipped beam. headlamp leveling is abit of a pain as looking for change in voltage when car starts as should do a level test but leave that to last and hopefully will only have 2 wires. Responding to old post but hopefully help someone

I think what you might be referring to is common on previous generation parking systems. The front sensors only activate when in reverse and stop when in drive or 1st unless you manually activate the system. The Idea I surpose was that if reversing you might not be watching the front for swing angle so sensors might save a scrap but when driving forwards we’re not of much use, but This was changed on newer generations and front sensors work in any gear below something like 10mph

Central locking solenoid is built into the lock mechanism and is a common failing , if it’s not totally failed you might hear a slight rumbling from it but won’t have the power to engage the lock.

The fact they admitted the pads were glazed probly without thinking about what they were saying points towards the calipers not backing of correctly after application, unless your driving with your handbrake on which obviously your not if you were to glaze your rear brakes your front would be even worse, typically it’s 70% braking force on front and 30% on back

Modern alternators don’t supply maximum charge at all times, they supply enough charge when needed to keep the battery maintained between a set range range, typically when engine braking the alternator produces maximum output and when accelerating produces little unless the battery requires it, this is to improve mpg as a alternator producing charge also produces drag, common battery failings are a broken cell, typical symptom is the battery will take a charge fine but will lose it very quickly over 24/48 hrs and this time of year is common for this fault

Does your vehicle display the psi of your tyres or is it passive system that warns of pressure loss but does not give a reading, passive systems do not have a sensor in the wheel instead they rely on the rotational speed of the wheel, a flat tyre is a smaller rotating mass so must rotate more to maintain same speed as a inflated tyre, system has been in use for years in bmw’s and does not like tyres with different tread depths, a very clever system using crazy calculations

Why this may seem strange behaviour from the computer it’s because depending on spec level and model some cars then use a alternative bulb as a emergency tail light

Check the bulb holder yourself as I’m working of a photo but yes they should both have good earths if that’s how the system is intended. This will because your cars computer will be working from resistance readings to determine if a bulb is blown or not so if it’s using one earth instead of two then the readings might be to high, so when the ecu detects a possible blown bulb it cuts the voltage to it, hence why it tries again when you restart the engine

Me and my Audi clutch are not friends, back story is the clutch friction plate exploded taking out several hydraulic lines, new clutch/ pressure plate, concentric cyclinder and new hydraulic pipe fitted, gearbox removed again for seal to be fitted into concentric slave cyclinder that Audi don’t fit into replacement part and took 3 days to even find in there system, all good for a few months then master cyclinder failed, 14 months later clutch delay valve leaking and master cyclinder won’t bleed due to check valve fault which is a design fault in these master cyclinders, I’m looking for info on the cable that bypasses the clutch delay valve a few members have fitted or even better a braided line from master to slave cyclinder

Vw golf mk7 /7.5 suffer with blocked heater cores and it’s caused by a additive bag that be built into the coolant reservoir bottle that bursts and clogs the heater matrix, common fix was to disconnect the 2 coolant pipes that go thru the bulk head and use a power wash in one hose to push the blockage back out the other pipe, takes abit of time but easier and cheaper then replacing the matrix radiator, hope this maybe of help

I coded this in but using a totally different method to both you have mentioned, I had to code in lane assist first to get my high beam assist to work. Hope that helps

Il shed my insight on these sensors as I deal with vehicle electronics a lot. The sensor on the servo is more of a safety device that has been used for years and often puts faults in stop/start systems and cruise controls systems, the restricted brake performance is the vehicles ecu reducing the limits of the abs pump/ module. It is worth buying a new sensor from the likes of eBay and fitting yourself. No coding required and system will reset after a certain amount of driving, sensor replacement will not involve any fluid loss so is a DIY job

Is the other bulb in the holder working correctly, if your yellow arrow point to what il call pin 1 then pin 3 also looks like a earth connection by the circuit layout