Sid2020

Central locking solenoid is built into the lock mechanism and is a common failing , if it’s not totally failed you might hear a slight rumbling from it but won’t have the power to engage the lock.

The fact they admitted the pads were glazed probly without thinking about what they were saying points towards the calipers not backing of correctly after application, unless your driving with your handbrake on which obviously your not if you were to glaze your rear brakes your front would be even worse, typically it’s 70% braking force on front and 30% on back

Modern alternators don’t supply maximum charge at all times, they supply enough charge when needed to keep the battery maintained between a set range range, typically when engine braking the alternator produces maximum output and when accelerating produces little unless the battery requires it, this is to improve mpg as a alternator producing charge also produces drag, common battery failings are a broken cell, typical symptom is the battery will take a charge fine but will lose it very quickly over 24/48 hrs and this time of year is common for this fault

Does your vehicle display the psi of your tyres or is it passive system that warns of pressure loss but does not give a reading, passive systems do not have a sensor in the wheel instead they rely on the rotational speed of the wheel, a flat tyre is a smaller rotating mass so must rotate more to maintain same speed as a inflated tyre, system has been in use for years in bmw’s and does not like tyres with different tread depths, a very clever system using crazy calculations

Why this may seem strange behaviour from the computer it’s because depending on spec level and model some cars then use a alternative bulb as a emergency tail light

Check the bulb holder yourself as I’m working of a photo but yes they should both have good earths if that’s how the system is intended. This will because your cars computer will be working from resistance readings to determine if a bulb is blown or not so if it’s using one earth instead of two then the readings might be to high, so when the ecu detects a possible blown bulb it cuts the voltage to it, hence why it tries again when you restart the engine

Me and my Audi clutch are not friends, back story is the clutch friction plate exploded taking out several hydraulic lines, new clutch/ pressure plate, concentric cyclinder and new hydraulic pipe fitted, gearbox removed again for seal to be fitted into concentric slave cyclinder that Audi don’t fit into replacement part and took 3 days to even find in there system, all good for a few months then master cyclinder failed, 14 months later clutch delay valve leaking and master cyclinder won’t bleed due to check valve fault which is a design fault in these master cyclinders, I’m looking for info on the cable that bypasses the clutch delay valve a few members have fitted or even better a braided line from master to slave cyclinder

Vw golf mk7 /7.5 suffer with blocked heater cores and it’s caused by a additive bag that be built into the coolant reservoir bottle that bursts and clogs the heater matrix, common fix was to disconnect the 2 coolant pipes that go thru the bulk head and use a power wash in one hose to push the blockage back out the other pipe, takes abit of time but easier and cheaper then replacing the matrix radiator, hope this maybe of help

I coded this in but using a totally different method to both you have mentioned, I had to code in lane assist first to get my high beam assist to work. Hope that helps

Il shed my insight on these sensors as I deal with vehicle electronics a lot. The sensor on the servo is more of a safety device that has been used for years and often puts faults in stop/start systems and cruise controls systems, the restricted brake performance is the vehicles ecu reducing the limits of the abs pump/ module. It is worth buying a new sensor from the likes of eBay and fitting yourself. No coding required and system will reset after a certain amount of driving, sensor replacement will not involve any fluid loss so is a DIY job

Is the other bulb in the holder working correctly, if your yellow arrow point to what il call pin 1 then pin 3 also looks like a earth connection by the circuit layout