Sid2020

Be interesting to know what they come back with

Sorry I got lost in the conversation and thought you had electro hydraulic

A whine at full lock that was not previously there could either be a drop in fluid level or steering pump nearing the end of it life but you should avoid holding a hydraulic steering system at full lock as it puts a lot of strain on the pump

Did your parking sensors deactivate when you plugged in your caravan as they should if it was coded and wired correctly. No fogs on your car makes me think that someone has made a mess of wiring in the tow socket

I would be inclined to rule out mechanical components and start to think electrical, what components could affect boost to that degree, boost solinoid as would think it has a VNT turbo but this is controlled by the ecu. Is it a Bosch edc16 ecu as these are notoriously crap and used across lots of manufacturers on diesels. Lots of ecu repairer websites offer symptoms that may match what you experience. What if you turn your ignition on for 10 seconds and then back off removing the key and then start, does it run fine or does it physically need to start for a few seconds before the 2nd start

When you say start the car twice how long is it running the first time, a short trip or 10 seconds, need to know for possible component heating

You can always pull the bumper and go direct to sensor plug testing, will have 3 wires per sensor, typically wires 1 and 3 will be 12v and earth with wire 2 the return signal wire, all sensors share the same earth and live feed, signal wires will have seperate color coding on them back to the main plug so continuity testing is quite simple

If you ain’t getting a sensor fault like the front then you need to establish power supply to module and to sensor loom first, then move from that stand point onto sensors

Modern diesels are a bit of brilliant engineering but are not suitable for short trips or town driving, I’ve recently spent several weeks in Europe getting trained on a certain brand of electric car and I must say that when I need to give up my diesel il be going non German full electric

With a voltmeter just pin out the back of the plug that exits the box and heads out the cars rear thru a grommet. Find your earth wire first and test that’s good. Then using that with one lead work then the other and one will/should have 12volts, the other wires are signal wires and usually carry slightly lower voltage that changes with sensor detection. If you have an earth and 12v output which might only be supplied for a few seconds as the car will shut down the outputs once it detects a fault. The next step would be rear bumper removal and check the wiring and plugs for damage or water ingress

From memory it’s in the drivers side qter panel, slim black box with beige plugs

Glad you’ve found a solution to get around the problem

I also wouldn’t pay Audi for adblue, it’s such a basic product and all you need to make check is that ISO22241 is in the container

I would be looking to test the voltage supplied to the module before doing anything else

That’s the warning to the driver that the system is not active

Sounds like you just got unlucky, ask around for a good independent garage that deal with vw/audi for future work as will charge atleast half the hourly rate, have the same software and possibly Pass on abit of parts discount and be open to recoding second hand parts when suitable.

Found a few pictures that might identify, my car is a ultra so has extra features to reduce aerodynamic drag, first picture is a ultra and second picture is of standard under trays

Next time I have it up in the air I will take a few photos, mine is just FWD so if yours is a Quattro that might make a difference

Does your convenience window opening work for the passenger window from your key incase your passenger door module is not waking up until the drivers door is opened

This is the tray I have further back

I have another tray further back instead of 18, the clips push thru both trays into what I would imagine was the gearbox carrier as wasn’t paying much attention. Next time I’m underneath it il have a look for you

I would imagine there saying a new tank will fix your problem as it will come complete with pump and module so only existing component will be the adblue injector. If you have a good local garage you could enquirer about going for a used unit and getting it recoded to your car at probly a fraction of the price

First thought was that with wear and tear the passenger mirror wants more power to function and with vehicle not running it can’t get enough current to unfold but once vehicle is started the extra power supplied by the alternator allows it to work. Unfortunately failing power fold mirrors is common across all cars

Adblue faults are common and as the fluid crystallizes we tend to find more faults on low millage cars then we do on high millage cars. Just one of them systems that benefits from constant use. Common path people take is adblue and dpf delete along with dpf removal. Not saying it’s a good idea but a lot cheaper

You need to find a garage with access to auto data, will contain pin outs for the modules and components but very unlikely it would give a complete wiring diagram for everything, it’s a paid membership so will likely charge for using it and time taken finding what your after