Sid2020

Definitely need a diagnostic check, one faulty sensor can knock out the complete system

I doesn’t allow me to view the original video or sound clip if a new one wants to be posted

Only fitted it last night so fingers crossed, replacement 2 years ago was a nightmare, parts only available from Audi who supplied the slave cyclinder with no rear oil seal which I didn’t notice as usually always come pre fitted, 3 months later and gearbox oil dripping from bell housing I sent several emails to Audi questioning this and there reply was that nothing on the parts list about inner seal which they emailed thru to my work, 3 days later Audi uk sent a updated parts break down showing the seal which the supplied FOC. As my labor costs me nothing I cleaned the clutch plate and thought it was worth a try. The oil in the picture inside the bell housing is just what came out the driveshaft hole when moving the box around last night

That’s the clutch that has been in for 2 years and suffered with getting a bath in gearbox oil for 3 months and then cleaned in coke when new seal was fitted so think it done well, regarding coke I drink it so not losing sleep washing my clutch in it

This is worth checking

The car starts so you can rule out BCM and ecu, I would go back to basics and check gearbox module and abs for earths and live feeds first and costs nothing, without specialist equipment can lines are hard to check but a good power probe or multimeter might pick up fluctuating frequencies which atleast indicates the wires are okay.

Terminal 15 on your transmission is usually a switched power fault so that may be enough to shut the engine down when trying to shift into gear as a fail safe.

Connecting the polarity round the wrong can cause internal damage to the modules, when using a booster or jumping its best to leave it connected for a few minutes before cranking just to stabilize the voltage to reduce a sudden spike thru the cars electronics, we replace quite a few modules because of the above.

Have you checked all fuses and earths as these cause missing message faults, ABS is giving a faulty module fault and voltage fault so worth unplugging it and see if that effects any other systems Incase it’s corrupting your canbus line as your power steering module is detecting a error in the voltage lines. Is it possible someone has connected a booster pack or tried to jump start it with the wires round the wrong way

Just had my tray of tonight and there is a part number on the clip

Just fitted this to my b9 tdi so while it’s likely different LUK are now selling kits for our cars as 2 years ago it was Audi only. If you do your own clutch the DMF on these gen on cars are fitted with throw out plates so if you rotate them you hear a metallic clonk as the plates drop, this is perfectly normal and doesn’t mean it needs replaced, at idle speed the plates are thrown outwards hence why you don’t hear them. Il post a picture of the kit I received and it came with all seals for the slave already fitted. I’m in the trade and got the kit for about £250

Late night update as just home from work, last weekend clutch started slipping suddenly even under modest loads so clutch kit ordered Monday thru work. LUK now do a kit for the b9 as previously it was only available thru Audi, kit includes clutch, pressure plate and slave cyclinder with bleeder extension and all seals already fitted which Audi do not include and bleeder extension was £105 on its own last time. wouldn’t describe it as a nice job as lots of stripping required but took about 6 hours in a workshop. the previous gearbox oil leak onto the clutch was clearly to blame as the clutch had started to disintegrate into a tar like substance sticking to everything. Post a few pictures of the items incase anyone is interested.

If this is the same as yours it’s built into the inlet manifold

If the pump Has run dry for any extended length of time it’s possible It’s over heated and seized/burnt out . It being seized would not cause an issue with the system holding coolant or pressure but would obviously lack that extra push the main pump can’t supply. A lot of cars are going over to coolant charge coolers now and main benefit is that they dont need to be in the airflow to work so can be mounted anywhere so very possible You have one on your engine

Electrical hydrolic systems like yours should place less strain on the electrical system then a electrical mechanical system, if you’ve replaced the solinoid and everything else checks out have a look and libe the following linkage as a known problem on some Audis

Secondary water pumps on many manufacturers are solely used to keep coolant circulating when the engine is shut off to prevent localized boiling around turbos and similar components, it seems that Audi have also been using them to aid the mechanical water pump while the engine is running after abit of research. I never considered this and is possibly a big oversight on my part. First thing is make sure you definitely have one fitted, then check the fuse is okay and if it’s accessible try to place a finger on it and try to feel a huming from it to see if it’s spinning

The thermostat is inside the housing so can not be seen from the outside, it controls the flow out of this port on the block

If the lower hose is from the thermostat then that might point to your issue. The matrix is usualy the last place that air remands trapped so if the thermostat is not opening fully and allowing full flow thru the system then it might not be able to push the air out. Have a look at your pump housing as you might be able to just remove the thermostat and test it in the kitchen with the kettle. Historicly If the thermostat fails open then usually you get lower running temperatures but fails shut you get over heating but with modern diesels over heating tends not to be such a problem as due to there efficiency they don’t generate lots of excess heat hence why newer cars have active air flaps to stop air flow thru the radiator when not needed.

Just a thought, you don’t have anything in this compartment on your car like a security pass for work or electrical Devi ce with nfc or magnets as it has been known to cause alarm issues as confuses the car into thinking you’ve left your key in the area. This is the designated area to place your key to start your car if the fob battery goes flat

So is the alarm fuse still out, I’ve read about a seperate battery to do with the alarm system that has proven to be problematic. I would double check the seating of any fuses to do with the mmi incase your screen flicker is down to a poor connection

Anything is possible with these cars. If the pump had failed I would expect to see some faults as you would get localized over heating of certain parts of the engine. Are the pipes to the bulkhead getting hot even when your getting no hot air in the cabin

And please have the battery disconnected for the sake of having a face left

How different is the part number, most part numbers change over the years as parts get superseded but would usually be almost identical except maybe a letter difference.

From memory and every car is different at around 40% you get a warning light on the dash, between 20-30% the car will regen on its own if all conditions are met, after a forced regen I’ve seen Them down to about 5-6%.

I have come across drive shafts grinding against steering knuckles which was caused by components swelling with corrosion as cars get older. removing the drive shaft from the knuckle and inspecting would be necessary thou