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Sid2020

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Everything posted by Sid2020

  1. Sid2020
    Try locking your car and waiting a few minutes and without your keys go out and see if you can open your tailgate. Just Incase the module isn’t powering down or your key is in range overnight. Always worth ruling out the simple and random things
  2. Sid2020
    That explains the 2 fault codes. Do they come back if cleared now it’s working. Trying to think of how that sensor or controller would trigger your alarm or what to try to find out. Unplugging it is one way, is there an option in Mimi to deactivate it.
  3. Sid2020
    Your first post says you’ve had this problem since you’ve owned the car so maybe you do have it and it’s never worked and that’s the fault, the sensor wires are usualy on the underside of the rear bumper spoiler fixed into location brackets
  4. Sid2020
    Do you have comfort access where you can wave your foot under your rear bumper as the fault codes your getting are not what I would expect to see for a glass sensor
  5. Sid2020
    I would try disconnecting the blue wire plug and using a small length of wire with the ends stripped off or a unfolded paper clip to make a jumper wire for the plug on the tailgate loom and see how you get on, clear the faults and see if they come back
  6. Sid2020
    The sensor in the lock mechanism should display on the dash if it didn’t work. Also your interior boot lights would remand lit for a few minutes even when car is locked if your boot didn’t detect it was shut. Had that fault myself
  7. Sid2020
    May be wrong with this but if you pull your rear panel trim up and off there is possibly a wire that goes to a micro switch that detects the spring loaded plastics flap position, check this is working correctly and activating the switch as easily broken. I know q5 and q7 use this to switch tailgate lights to bumper lights when open and maybe the b9 uses it for another reason
  8. Sid2020
    This is the hole that some modules slide into to secure to the frame and that spare wire would plug into that module. Might be for different markets depending on radio frequencies used
  9. Sid2020
    If you’ve had a replacement screen it’s possible that Audi only sell one spec glass for each tint and that would be the top spec so any extra connectors are just left unplugged as there would be no wiring in the tailgate for it. Upload a picture of what you have if you can. A diagnostics should also show up if it’s a glass sensor
  10. Sid2020
    From memory it’s the blue wires attached to the screen. You can just bridge the wires together to make a circuit. Some models also have these on the qter glasses
  11. Sid2020
    Rear screen has a sensor wire in it that has been known to cause alarm issues if it has been damaged. Window tinters with a knife or dog scratching it have all been seen before
  12. Sid2020
    Glad you got it fixed the way you did. If it’s a stubborn blockage I’ve known a power wash to be used on the garden hose instead of mains water pressure
  13. Sid2020
    Front NSF drop is excessive and the other ride height changes could be attributed to that. NSF is down and OSR has gone up. OSF and NSR slightly down but could be caused by NSF being so low just like a puncture would. You said front right had been changed so front left failing now would be logical
  14. Sid2020
    If your seeing all the usual modules the next thing I would do is as the fault codes look like there in your ABS module I would run live data on all 4 wheel speed sensors. See if all 4 are giving good feedback regarding speed reading.
  15. Sid2020
    Does your diagnostic machine allow you to see all modules fitted to the car, looks like a Bosch so would think so but want to check. are they all present does it allow you to run a canbus network check
  16. Sid2020
    A vacuum refill should fill both sides of the thermostat with possibly a small bit of trapped air but nothing major
  17. Sid2020
    Won’t do any harm
  18. Sid2020
    We get our Audi parts from TPS which is vags official parts supplier. Dont know if they deal with the public. Just go into your dealers parts counter with that screen shot. Prices are unpredictable as some parts you think will be expensive ain’t and others thru the roof.
  19. Sid2020
    Item 3 will usually be a Audi supplied part only, many aftermarket mirrors come complete minus cap and glass, it would be worth popping the glass out and inspecting the main mirror body which part 3 fixes onto for any cracks as as we often find further damage from impacts like this
  20. Sid2020
    Without knowing exact engine code it’s hard to say if there correct. Many manufacturers claim long timing belt intervals when a model is new to market and then keep revising it down so your best to check the latest guidance Audi are saying for each car
  21. Sid2020
    The incorrect coding is definitely worth investigating but would expect to see lots of fault codes if this was the case. Only thing changeable on LED headlamps is control units and some have a fan inside that can be changed but that’s all. Here is a stamp from the rear of a led c7 headlamp
  22. Sid2020
    I’ve seen coding that can change drl brightness but never came across dipped or main beam alterations. The a6 c7 led headlamp uses 35w for low beam and 18w for high. This at first seemed back to front but it must add an extra 18w of leds to the 35w of the dipped beams which stay on. This in theory would give an amazing amount of light compared to a H4 bulb which only have a 5w difference between high and low beams. Sorry I can’t provide any actual help
  23. Sid2020
    Can’t see a problem but just don’t turn ignition on
  24. Sid2020
    If your doing this at home soak it in white vinegar for a few hours
  25. Sid2020
    You should have a sensor upstream and another downstream of your cat, ecu compares the readings between the 2 sensors. That’s how it works on most cars but not exactly sure what setup your car may have
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