Sid2020

Just had my tray of tonight and there is a part number on the clip

Just fitted this to my b9 tdi so while it’s likely different LUK are now selling kits for our cars as 2 years ago it was Audi only. If you do your own clutch the DMF on these gen on cars are fitted with throw out plates so if you rotate them you hear a metallic clonk as the plates drop, this is perfectly normal and doesn’t mean it needs replaced, at idle speed the plates are thrown outwards hence why you don’t hear them. Il post a picture of the kit I received and it came with all seals for the slave already fitted. I’m in the trade and got the kit for about £250

Late night update as just home from work, last weekend clutch started slipping suddenly even under modest loads so clutch kit ordered Monday thru work. LUK now do a kit for the b9 as previously it was only available thru Audi, kit includes clutch, pressure plate and slave cyclinder with bleeder extension and all seals already fitted which Audi do not include and bleeder extension was £105 on its own last time. wouldn’t describe it as a nice job as lots of stripping required but took about 6 hours in a workshop. the previous gearbox oil leak onto the clutch was clearly to blame as the clutch had started to disintegrate into a tar like substance sticking to everything. Post a few pictures of the items incase anyone is interested.

If this is the same as yours it’s built into the inlet manifold

If the pump Has run dry for any extended length of time it’s possible It’s over heated and seized/burnt out . It being seized would not cause an issue with the system holding coolant or pressure but would obviously lack that extra push the main pump can’t supply. A lot of cars are going over to coolant charge coolers now and main benefit is that they dont need to be in the airflow to work so can be mounted anywhere so very possible You have one on your engine

Electrical hydrolic systems like yours should place less strain on the electrical system then a electrical mechanical system, if you’ve replaced the solinoid and everything else checks out have a look and libe the following linkage as a known problem on some Audis

Secondary water pumps on many manufacturers are solely used to keep coolant circulating when the engine is shut off to prevent localized boiling around turbos and similar components, it seems that Audi have also been using them to aid the mechanical water pump while the engine is running after abit of research. I never considered this and is possibly a big oversight on my part. First thing is make sure you definitely have one fitted, then check the fuse is okay and if it’s accessible try to place a finger on it and try to feel a huming from it to see if it’s spinning

The thermostat is inside the housing so can not be seen from the outside, it controls the flow out of this port on the block

If the lower hose is from the thermostat then that might point to your issue. The matrix is usualy the last place that air remands trapped so if the thermostat is not opening fully and allowing full flow thru the system then it might not be able to push the air out. Have a look at your pump housing as you might be able to just remove the thermostat and test it in the kitchen with the kettle. Historicly If the thermostat fails open then usually you get lower running temperatures but fails shut you get over heating but with modern diesels over heating tends not to be such a problem as due to there efficiency they don’t generate lots of excess heat hence why newer cars have active air flaps to stop air flow thru the radiator when not needed.

Just a thought, you don’t have anything in this compartment on your car like a security pass for work or electrical Devi ce with nfc or magnets as it has been known to cause alarm issues as confuses the car into thinking you’ve left your key in the area. This is the designated area to place your key to start your car if the fob battery goes flat

So is the alarm fuse still out, I’ve read about a seperate battery to do with the alarm system that has proven to be problematic. I would double check the seating of any fuses to do with the mmi incase your screen flicker is down to a poor connection

Anything is possible with these cars. If the pump had failed I would expect to see some faults as you would get localized over heating of certain parts of the engine. Are the pipes to the bulkhead getting hot even when your getting no hot air in the cabin

And please have the battery disconnected for the sake of having a face left

How different is the part number, most part numbers change over the years as parts get superseded but would usually be almost identical except maybe a letter difference.

From memory and every car is different at around 40% you get a warning light on the dash, between 20-30% the car will regen on its own if all conditions are met, after a forced regen I’ve seen Them down to about 5-6%.

I have come across drive shafts grinding against steering knuckles which was caused by components swelling with corrosion as cars get older. removing the drive shaft from the knuckle and inspecting would be necessary thou

This picture was taken from the b9 forum and if your a3 has similar design it would allow coolant to flow in and out of the matrix but if the water ways are blocked you would get no heat transfer into the cabin as it needs to travel thru the water ways for that to happen

I don’t have access to the Audi coolant schematics but typically the water pump circulates coolant around the engine block, turbo if water cooled, egr cooler and any other heat critical parts and the matrix for occupant comfort. Only once the coolant reaches a certain temperature does the thermostat open and allow coolant to flow from the pump into the radiator for cooling. To remove air fully the system must be upto temperature so the thermostat opens and allows the flow around the complete coolant system and allow trapped air to be pushed back to the reservoir

Be worth checking the turbo oil feed pipe isn’t leaking where it fixes to the top of the turbo core. This pipe will have a fair bit of pressure in it when engine is running so worth checking with engine on and off, oil loss can be very small as it is often a weep rather then it pouring out

Steering will be electric so any problems with charge system or battery can affect the steering as it consumes a lot of current. Your Clutch is purely a hydraulic system apart from a sensor which is there for the start and cruise control systems

The cam shaft sensor fault if it’s only occurring once the engine is warm I would be inclined to say the sensor is starting to fail when warm so simply replacing it would be with a try. Your flow fault depends on on your exact engine type but commonly is a fault generated when the 2 coolant temp sensors give differing readings over a set time frame which the ecu thinks is abnormal. Could be a failing water pump, thermostat, either or both temp sensors or wiring issue. Live data displaying both coolant sensor temps would be worth a look

Is the slave not in the box on the c7 so massive job, I’d try master and bleed first as simple to change and if that doesn’t fix then box off and slave and clutch while in there

Sounds like what I had, I changed my master cyclinder and gave it several bleeds using Comma Dot 4esp brake fluid, I used a pressure bleeder as a lot easier. Don’t use standard Dot 4 brake fluid, a mistake I made first time round

I would be inclined to say it sounds like a hydraulic problem, are you losing brake fluid, does changing gear get easier after driving for 10 minutes. If car left for a few days does it get harder to change then usual.

74 and still tinkering, your a legend in my eyes terry