Sid2020

The sensor in the lock mechanism should display on the dash if it didn’t work. Also your interior boot lights would remand lit for a few minutes even when car is locked if your boot didn’t detect it was shut. Had that fault myself

May be wrong with this but if you pull your rear panel trim up and off there is possibly a wire that goes to a micro switch that detects the spring loaded plastics flap position, check this is working correctly and activating the switch as easily broken. I know q5 and q7 use this to switch tailgate lights to bumper lights when open and maybe the b9 uses it for another reason

This is the hole that some modules slide into to secure to the frame and that spare wire would plug into that module. Might be for different markets depending on radio frequencies used

If you’ve had a replacement screen it’s possible that Audi only sell one spec glass for each tint and that would be the top spec so any extra connectors are just left unplugged as there would be no wiring in the tailgate for it. Upload a picture of what you have if you can. A diagnostics should also show up if it’s a glass sensor

From memory it’s the blue wires attached to the screen. You can just bridge the wires together to make a circuit. Some models also have these on the qter glasses

Rear screen has a sensor wire in it that has been known to cause alarm issues if it has been damaged. Window tinters with a knife or dog scratching it have all been seen before

Glad you got it fixed the way you did. If it’s a stubborn blockage I’ve known a power wash to be used on the garden hose instead of mains water pressure

Front NSF drop is excessive and the other ride height changes could be attributed to that. NSF is down and OSR has gone up. OSF and NSR slightly down but could be caused by NSF being so low just like a puncture would. You said front right had been changed so front left failing now would be logical

If your seeing all the usual modules the next thing I would do is as the fault codes look like there in your ABS module I would run live data on all 4 wheel speed sensors. See if all 4 are giving good feedback regarding speed reading.

Does your diagnostic machine allow you to see all modules fitted to the car, looks like a Bosch so would think so but want to check. are they all present does it allow you to run a canbus network check

A vacuum refill should fill both sides of the thermostat with possibly a small bit of trapped air but nothing major

Won’t do any harm

We get our Audi parts from TPS which is vags official parts supplier. Dont know if they deal with the public. Just go into your dealers parts counter with that screen shot. Prices are unpredictable as some parts you think will be expensive ain’t and others thru the roof.

Item 3 will usually be a Audi supplied part only, many aftermarket mirrors come complete minus cap and glass, it would be worth popping the glass out and inspecting the main mirror body which part 3 fixes onto for any cracks as as we often find further damage from impacts like this

Without knowing exact engine code it’s hard to say if there correct. Many manufacturers claim long timing belt intervals when a model is new to market and then keep revising it down so your best to check the latest guidance Audi are saying for each car

The incorrect coding is definitely worth investigating but would expect to see lots of fault codes if this was the case. Only thing changeable on LED headlamps is control units and some have a fan inside that can be changed but that’s all. Here is a stamp from the rear of a led c7 headlamp

I’ve seen coding that can change drl brightness but never came across dipped or main beam alterations. The a6 c7 led headlamp uses 35w for low beam and 18w for high. This at first seemed back to front but it must add an extra 18w of leds to the 35w of the dipped beams which stay on. This in theory would give an amazing amount of light compared to a H4 bulb which only have a 5w difference between high and low beams. Sorry I can’t provide any actual help

Can’t see a problem but just don’t turn ignition on

If your doing this at home soak it in white vinegar for a few hours

You should have a sensor upstream and another downstream of your cat, ecu compares the readings between the 2 sensors. That’s how it works on most cars but not exactly sure what setup your car may have

Check your coolant level isn’t to high Incase the flow from the return pipe is pulling air under the surface of the reservoir

2016 A3’s are good solid cars

Audi a6 c7 front door lock, cable with black grommet and grey foam sleeve is to inner handle and other cable goes to outer handle.

Majority of modern audis use a cable that connects the handle to the mechanism. I would lean towards the solanoid inside the lock mechanism starting to fail. They usually still make a noise but don’t have enough power to throw the internal lever. Unless deadlocked or child locks on the inner handle will always unlock the car as it’s a mechanical connection. From memory it Should need pulled twice if door is still locked. Once if door is unlocked

Unfortunately the devices they have started to use now doesn’t even require a key to be scanned, from what I’ve seen if the cars ecu’s are awake or awoken then the device can unlock the car almost instantly or within the alarm sounding once, when inside another device get puts into the obd port and starts the car. Different devices for different cars so if a local thief gets one then you will notice the same type of cars getting stolen, Range Rover, fiesta mk7.5 and fiat 500 seem the easiest so far, keyless ignitions almost always as ignition barrels slow them down