Sid2020

Done a water pump On a 2017 A1 1.4 tfsi just last Saturday on my drive, water pump on gearbox and driven from the cam shaft. Very easy job and would encourage anyone to to do it themselves, basic tools required are basic socket set, torx sockets and 10mm Allan key socket with torque wrench, plumbers wrench for coolant pipes. Audi water pump comes complete with thermostat housing and thermostat. Also order a new belt for it

Having the heater blower on is pushing air thru the matrix which has a cooling effect on the coolant inside so it slows the heating process down. Try a small Length of garden hose pushed into the matrix connector and put the power wash lance in the other end of hose, should aid access and reduce risk of damage by too much pressure. Just go back and ask the garage to clarify what parts are getting replaced for the £500, perfectly acceptable question that they should be happy to answer

Ideally never run the engine without coolant so turn off before draining, you will never get all the coolant out so don’t worry too much, bottem hose is best as should drain down to Lowest point but pull as many as you want. if coolant is hot the thermostat should be open which would help

Fingers crossed for you, the theory of how everything works and fits perfectly from the factory is great but sometimes it just requires a tried and tested fix like a smear of lubricant

LED headlamps are usually very good, what I meant was that a LED high beam is usually better focused then a halogen high beam, LED will give a wider, longer spread of light with a increase in height but not to the height of a halogen high beam as it’s not of much use. If there as bad as you say then I would try to find a user close by to compare with. Maybe post a picture of dipped beam and main beam on here so we can see what your meaning

Away from work this week but check if you have a sensor on/near the thermostat housing also. quite common to have 2 different temperature sensors that are used by different systems. A basic obd2 reader might only be able to access engine related sensors not body controller sensors. Check wiring and condition of connector pins one the sensors and if possible back probe the sensors to check resistance readings with a meter. resistance should change with coolant temperature change and be progressive. that’s a few basic checks worth trying before sending cluster away

For the matrix I would back wash it directly at the bulkhead, once happy reconnect and fill system with water, run upto temp making sure thermostat opens and electric fan kicks in. Turn interior temperature to hottest setting and leave fan off. Occasionally turn fan on to check if heat is present and encouraging flow. Leaving the fan on will slow down the heating process. Once your happy everything is hot I would pull a lower radiator hose to allow all water and muck to exit easy. Reconnect pipe and either repeat process again or fill with correct coolant. personally use any cleaning solution you want to clean the matrix but I would be careful putting anything into the complete coolant system apart from water and antifreeze

How’s everyone getting on with there faults, just a idea when reading thru your posts , if you turn start/stop off using the switch once you’ve started the car do you still get the same problems. The >N symbol usually indicates the car wants you to put it into neutral instead of sitting in gear with clutch pressed so the start stop can activate. Just wondered if turning the system off makes any difference to your problems

Personally know a few people who have fixed a blocked heater matrix without stripping out the dash, all involved disconnecting coolant pipes from bulkhead and poking a powerwash lance into the matrix pipes and blasting away until eventually water starts passing, apparently can take a while and involve a lot of blow black and beware that you could rupture your matrix If your power wash is too powerful. worth a try first if your prepared to replace the matrix anyway

If you’ve managed to get the exact pipe for the diameter then that’s great. Just make sure it’s secure and not leaking or sucking air, once all connected you can smear abit grease on the joint and use that as a indicator for leaks or suction

You may find that matrix headlamps on full beam provide a more controlled extension of view than previous cars which literally lit up the sky.

Audi headlamps have breathers on them as do all car manufacturers so there not ever fully sealed. As Magnet stated a hair dryer or gentle Hot air gun does help if you have a removal cap on the back to let the moisture out when it evaporates, but if LED units just drive with dipped beam on as much as possible to generate heat to slowly burn it off. I know Seat have a service bulletin that customers receive if they complain stating it’s normal so Wouldn’t be surprised if all VAG company’s have similar

If the outer diameter of the plastic pipe is 5.6/5.7 mm I would buy fuel pipe with internal bore of 5mm and warm in boiling water for a few minutes before fitting, secure with clamps of correct diameter for hose outer diameter, be quick when replacing and when starting give it a boot of revs for a few minutes and with any luck the air will be pushed thru with the revs fluttering a few times.

For the time required to drop the arch liner and then struggle To change everything with limited access and visibility I would remove the front bumper and then the headlamp and fit that way. Might take a little longer but will be a lot easier and less scope for mistakes being made

Dot 4 LV is same as Dot 4 ESP just different name for different countries

The clutch pedals on the b9 don’t lend themselves well to a resting foot due to the way the master cyclinder connects to it. The master cyclinder uses a portion of its travel just to fix it into the rear of the pedal so any pressure on it has a direct result on the slave cyclinder, Steve Y gives great advice, give it a real good bleed using comma Dot 4 ESP, standard Dot 4 has a higher viscosity and the master cyclinder and clutch delay valve really doesn’t cope well with it.

If it’s the water pump like other A1 petrol engines it sits on the gearbox side of the block and is driven of a small cambelt style belt. Was the belt tensioned correctly and was a gasket sealant possibly used and its blocks a water way or pipe

Looking at possibility of changing my 7inch mini to the 8.2” mmi. Mainly due to fitting a reverse camera. The reverse camera display on the 8.2 screen is far better then on the 7inch screen due to the way it displays the pdc sensor info at the same time. Is it possible to just swop between the 2 screens even though I have the mono chrome cluster. Away on training course at the moment but believe I have mib2 as I have CarPlay as standard but I may stand corrected. Any info or advice is welcomed

I didn’t bleed the brakes Steve as squeezed the job in on my lunch break. I should have to remove any dot 4 from the brake lines but I’m due new pads shortly and I always bleed out the brake fluid instead of pushing it back up the system so will just hook up the pressure bleeder and give it a complete change

Is the car idling at the correct revs or a little higher then usual, we’ve had a few fords in lately where the throttle pedal positioning sensors were starting to give slightly incorrect readings causing a increase in revs which might be enough to disengage your auto hold, Audi dealer would hopefully find this on a live data check. please keep us updated

Had random problem occasionally over past few years where power tailgate would close, appear to catch but slightly pop a few seconds later, the tailgate could then just be lifted open. Couple of days ago the problem happened again and has remained, so I decided to strip it down. Found abit of a design flaw which while not permanently fixed it can be easily be reset to work again. Remove the plastic cover on catch secured by 3 Philips screws once open you will find a motor driving a long worm gear, on the there will be a rubber sleeve and a spring. the rubber sleeve moves along the gear and gets jammed preventing the spring working and jamming the catch open. just slide the rubber sleeve back away from the spring towards a section of the worm gear that is smooth it should then work again

update, clutch been feeling and working a lot better since master cyclinder and fluid change, gave it another pressure bleed during lunch break today just incase any trapped air or incorrect dot 4 fluid was still present, fingers crossed this is it fixed

If you want to replace this before putting it into Audi for a service the following should be correct for the varies b9 variants . We replace a lot when repairing rear damaged vehicles, there often installed to soon after cavity wax is injected into the tailgate or boot when new and it seals them.

They can become blocked with sludge on the doors but the tailgate should not get a ingress of water as everything fitted to it has seals and the rear window is bonded into place so something has failed

My apologies, for some reason I thought you had a petrol