spartacus 68

True Stevie, but if you start listing every potential diesel issue you’d never buy one. This will be my last diesel. Have come from Audi 80 1.9 TDI, wife had A2 1.4 TDI, then A4 2.5 TDI Quattro, then Allroad 2.0TDI and my current Allroad 3.0 TDI. Throw in a couple of daily drivers including a Skoda Fabia 1.4 TDI and Polo 1.4 TDI. What are the advantages? Better fuel economy, low end torque, engine longevity? All my previous Audis were at 150k plus, except my B8 Allroad which was just 65k miles and treated like a princess. My daily commute before Covid was 50 miles. Euro 6 technology pushed diesel technology to the limits. Yes you can have lower emissions, but VAG engineers left potential ticking time bomb with EGR valves and AdBlue tanks. What’s the option? Petrol? Forums are littered with excessive oil consumption threads or disintegrating rocker arm needle bearings. Electric, well funny you should mention that, wife now has BMW i3 REx, so hybrid. Cracking little car, but it has its quirks. You have a couple of options and this has stood me well. Service it within an inch of its life. On 2.0TDI, then 8-10k oil changes miles. Fuel filter ever 20k miles. Run a can of Forte diesel conditioner through it under 1/4 tank and drive it like you stole it. Always get to temperature and use on journeys of up to 1 hour minimum 2-3 days a week. Use premium diesel every few tanks. If you’re spanner handy, get VCDS. I changed my attitude about mechanics when I was a nipper (circa late 90s) and discovered a ratchet still attached to the underside of my mum’s Vauxhall Astra 1.8 CD (incidentally not a diesel). Returned it to the service desk with a curt “I believe this is yours!”

Must be one of the last B8.5 models on 2015 plate if Euro 6. What is it, 2.0TDI or 3.0? This is actually straight forward. You have 30 days for a used car under statutory legislation (2015 consumer rights). Refuse it. The fact the trader deleted AdBlue tells you all you need to know, that’s a potential MOT fail if discovered. Depending what the issue was in the first place, injector, tank, etc. The difficulty you have is you put a map on it. So two choices, remove the map and return it to standard to the dealer and demand full refund or live with it. I personally wouldn’t have mapped it with an outstanding AdBlue issue, as I’d then want to know what’s going on with EGR, DPF, cat, etc. Are the 50k miles legitimate? Does the history substantiate this? Might be worth running a CarVertical check it? Knowledge is king in these circumstances.

Just looked on Autotrader so £14k gets you a manual (66 plate) 2017, S Line Avant with around 65-80k miles. That’s the 2.0 TDI (190PS), £35 road tax, etc. That’s without Quattro. Nothing wrong with manual 6-speed, but you’re reducing the potential number of cars with any searches. Again, absolutely nothing wrong with S Tronic box as long as it’s been serviced. So every 38k miles. With 2.0TDI, whether low mileage or average miles say up to 80k, then timing belt and water pump need to have been done. Factor this in would be my advice, and replace every 5 years. If you do same search with S Tronic Quattro you can get 17 plate with around 60-70k miles for around £16k. Road tax now £190.

So basically fit a new oil cooler? Audi we’re going to charge you £20k+ for a new engine! Might be worth fitting upgraded oil cooler and investigation additional heat shields around the turbo.

Good job. 3M manufacture a wrap called 2080 BR120 brushed aluminum. That’s about as close as I’ve seen or OE look.

This is on 2013 model, but assume procedure will be the same for 2009 model. Tools wise, socket set, extension bar for 3/8” ratchet for 8/10mm nuts or long handled Torx driver in glove box, special tools to remove media centre if there’s one in the glove box, new G12+ coolant, anti-marring trim tools for centre console. If it were me, I’d remove both front seats for better access. There will be cables underneath for airbags to remove. VCDS to clear any error codes. Quite a good video. Sounds like Danny Dyer working out of Mitchell’s Garage!

Not aware of a flush as such. The injector before the catalytic converter is prone to crystallisation. It can be cleaned with warm water and a little vinegar and a little nylon brush. There are a number of additives on the market, but your guess is as good as mine regards their claim to reduce crystallisation. VAG AdBlue is part number G052910M4.The Issue is more complex, in the respect of what VAG engineers were trying to achieve by reducing Euro 6 diesel emissions with DPF, EGR and AdBlue in conjunction with a catalytic converter. To be honest Euro 5 technology was fine and dandy, but with low emission zones in cities, then you risk a congestion charge if you enter, which is entirely possible if you don’t know the city, or hit roadworks that could detour you. Driving style is important too. Diesels like to get up to temperature, so start stop short trips will likely cause issues down the line. Just my tuppence worth.

Pretty much all Audi’s range whether SUV or Quattro are effectively soft-roaders. The plastic panels under the car extend from the engine under tray to the rear diff. The only thing holding these plastic panels on are 10mm nylon nuts or Torx screws. When you’re negotiating flood water (which is not advisable at the best of times), then water will enter the underside of the car including the plastic panels. You only need a couple of missing fasteners and the force of the water will rip it off.

Usually 32mm and only 25Nm to torque (with a smear of fresh oil on the new ‘o’ ring). Details of the torque value will be on the filter housing.

Personally I’d avoid using the main dealer, but you’re over a barrel here. Their labour rates are exorbitantly high, plus you’re now dealing with non experienced technicians that follow a prescribed digital process from Germany. BMW went down the same route years ago. As the customer you fund the process with new parts until they eventually resolve the issue. AdBlue is likely to be the integral tank, heater, sensor and pump. It’s a sealed unit and the electronic sensor is part of it. There’s also a AdBlue injector near the exhaust catalytic converter that could be crystallised. Personally I’d be looking at that first and follow process of elimination. VCDS may give you specific error codes to search against. My understanding is tank is updates on the car’s ECU using ODIS dealer level software. As it’s Euro 6 diesel, what else can you do? Some folk might say just delete it, including EGR and DPF. First off that’s an MOT fail if identified, plus the AdBlue is reducing emissions.

You’re asking a generic question. There are multiple engine variants on 1.4TFSI platform. If your mates are doing it, get OE, it’s probably less than you think. Failing that a recognised and respected timing belt manufacturer, such as Gates, Continental, etc. This is a critical component, don’t cut corners due to cost.

Yours will be 2.0 litre 252bhp version if Quattro. Its a chain. Technically speaking there’s three. If it’s been on long service intervals, get off of that and into oil changes every 8-10k miles.

Speak to Tomas at VAG Technic. Oxfordshire to Dudley is about 1hr 30mins away. They drop performance engines all the time and know their way around S4. I’m sure there’s logical explanation.

Search out ErWin, you can source specific model and buy access to see procedure involved. Suspect it’s going to be very difficult to do unless you have access to a ramp.

No S Tronic is dual clutch, 7 speed used on 3.0TDI 218hp model. Tiptronic is single clutch with torque convertor and 8 speed. Both need serviced. S Tronic every 38k miles. Tiptronic then Audi will say sealed for life. I don't buy that as there's a ZF8 maintenance kit specifically for it, so I did it earlier this year when it turned 60k miles. Absolutely critical these boxes are maintained as auto gearbox replacement is ridiculously expensive. On quattro, the rear diff gear oil should be changed too anywhere from 60-80k miles.