spartacus 68

Reductant injector. God I hate auto-correct and the march of AI. 😄

5 years is kind of average for a battery. That said cars now are very susceptible to weak or worn batteries and your dash will light up like a Christmas tree. Especially with start/stop, air conditioning, heated seats, etc. Better to replace than risk being stranded. Cold weather adds another factor so cold cranking amps are reduced and you’ll find the car may not have the power to start it. You can check with a multimeter at cold before a run. I’d expect 12.6v or so. At running, this can go up to 14.7v, but that’s important because it shows how it’s handling load. Most modern batteries are AGM, so I assume that’s what has been fitted as it handles start stop.

Not all Audi franchises are complete bar stewards. There are advantages with an Approved Used Warranty. It’s normally 1 year, but if bought with their finance, then up to 2 years. However that changes all the time and depends how aggressively they want to sell cars and the market at the time. Audi long service regime is a complete gimmick. Any oil viscosity will diminish and to expect a car to cover 18k miles or 2 years is overly optimistic. That suits Audi, as a lot of cars when purchased from new were on PCP deals or similar and then the cars were returned for GFV (guaranteed future value) often based on limiting mileage after 3 years and overall condition or face penalty. This keeps their servicing costs down (as often servicing is part of the finance deal), but engine wear and issues don’t materialise until it’s left Audi and it’s with new owners, often a few years down the line. The only reason I can see Audi are interested in this car is its abnormally low mileage. Normally they’d retail cars up to 5 years old. Personally you’re better with an average mileage car. In terms of history, yes it can be electronic, but any dealer worth their salt will divulge history, if not walk away. I’d be cautious buying a car privately, especially at this kind of money, but depends on your attitude to risk. Even with checks like Car Vertical, then things go wrong as soon as you drive away, weak batteries, demising mirrors (especially auto-dim) ones which are expensive, clutches, etc. For non Audi franchises, triple check warranty. They are normally standard 3 month warranties that you in effect extend financially if you want longer period, but are so loaded in the dealer’s favour, such as oil change service every 6k miles or 6 months and stamped via VAT garage. You can’t do you’re own servicing until out of warranty. Even if you claim it can be a minefield.

The AdBlue injector attaches to the DPF (diesel particulate filter). On a 3 litre bi-turbo then I’ll bet it’s buried down the back of the engine and you’ll need a child’s hand to access! https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A6AR/738/2/201/201034 Part 13, is the reluctant injector, has inlet AdBlue, electrical connection, and what I assume are two vacuum/return hose points. Double check with Audi parts for part number which I think is 4G0131113E (been revised a few times). Few videos on YouTube for cleaning injector with Wynns, plus clean aperture into DPF, importantly not dropping crystallised AdBlue in. Good luck and let us know how you get on.

Acel they are bungs for the tailgate only. The bump stops are on the rear quarter near the lights.

Think it’s called a boot lid buffer, part 8P4827239B. Just checked my car and they are not on the tailgate itself, but on the rear quarter visible with the tailgate raised. Never adjusted them before, as it’s an auto boot, but when it closes you can see the tailgate is drawn down to lock. They are held in place with Torx bolts. There maybe some adjustment, but suspect it’s the rubberised part that can be screwed in or out for height adjustment.

Read a few threads on this. First off - can you confirm rear wash wipe still works? The motors are made by Valeo and the copper pipe eventually breaks, sending electrics haywire, goosing the motor and water into the tailgate. If that's fine - look at the rubber bump-stops. These can be adjusted so the tailgate sits a little tighter on the rubber seal. You may need to strip the tailgate trim off and get someone to spray the car with water and watch for entry point.

This was mine Peter - 2001 2.5 TDI (V6) Quattro Sport. Old technology now, but a good car.

As mentioned, history is key, but turbos can fail regardless. Failed on my 2012 A4 Allroad under 70k miles. That car was well-cared for, with oil and filter changes every 8-10k miles. The actuator potentially failed can be tested with vacuum), it can be purchased separately, but in order to set up with the turbo it needs to be balanced on a bench with specialist tools. Easier just to replace the turbo and actuator as one unit. On the 2.0TDI (177PS) which is Garrett unit, then you can buy new rather than reconditioned unit from turbo-diesel.co.uk You can pick up turbo for around £600. Audi will charge you double that just for the same part plus labour. I stripped the turbo down and there was carbon build-up, and one of the vanes on the turbine was damaged so I opted to swap it out. Importantly the oil feed line needs to be renewed too. If not you run the risk of a leak. You need to factor in an oil and filter change as a matter of course. There are plenty diesel B8 Avants on the market. My suggestion, narrow your list down on extras as it’s expensive to retro-fit, colour of course, and mileage. Last B8.5 would have been around 2015, so set your budget accordingly.

SKF and F.A.G. are owned by the same business I think. Autodoc is good, but be prepared for a wait, especially at this time of year. Only issue you may have is separating it from the hub. You will undoubtedly have aluminium oxide corrosion. I used air hammer to separate. A big hammer will work, as you're not pressing in the new bearing. Clean area with a wire brush and especially the ends of the triple square bolts, PlusGas to lube, etc.

80Nm + 90 degrees for the bearing and carrier triple square bolts. Personally only fit a quality bearing, such as F.A.G. or similar, that will be OE. Make sure the hub face is spotless before torquing up the new bearing and carrier flange. There will be aluminium oxide when the old one is removed, but a wire brush assembly on a drill is perfect. For the driveshaft bolt, it’s 200Nm plus 180 degrees. Importantly, the axle cannot be on the weight of the vehicle. More details here.

To be honest there’s zero value in it. It’s worth more to you than what’s it’s physically worth. I used to have B5 2.5TDI Quattro Sport Avant, and took it to 175k miles. The B5 shape is attractive, especially in avant form. I still search for mine on UK MOT check and sadly its MOT was never renewed after Jan 2024 at 222k miles. You do see these cars from time to time, especially in southern Europe where they haven’t been ravaged by our winter road salt. The V6 diesel version is fairly bullet proof. If it were me, and depending on budget, it would be an interesting project car to completely strip and rebuild. There was something on a different forum with a B5 in Hibiscus Red. However if you’re not spanner savvy, then costs will run away with you. VCDS software is very useful too. Subframe front and rear would probably need to be dropped, new bushes and powder coated. New Meyle HD multi link suspension all round, probably new dampers, brakes overhauled. Interior wise, should be easier. The matrix dash used to be problematic but can be fixed, plus unsightly scratched interior controls where the rubberised paint has worn off. Then there’s the small matter of a new paint job. Madness, probably, but if it’s part of the family, keep it.

Darkside Developments have definitely remapped an A4 272. I have the same car and to be honest in dynamic mode, it’s fantastic as stock. Be interested to know what mpg you’re looking for? Premium diesel will help a little, as well as decent ambient temperatures. I tend to get around 50mpg, but that’s in efficiency mode, and driving like Miss Daisy! Best I’ve ever achieved was over 60mpg heading back from London on motorway in late summer. The V6 doesn’t like city driving, and if you tow then that figure plummets too. At some point I may consider it, so would be interested to know outcome. With these sort of things, I’d drive to a reputable remap business with rolling road, which will probably involve overnight stop depending on where you live. Better that than issues down the line. The Tiptronic 8-speed can handle the power, but consider changing the gear oil and filter. I did this last month at 60k on a 17 plate. ZF have kit. Audi main dealer will say it’s sealed for life, but all gear oil deteriorates over time, and I tow too, so felt justified in doing as it’s likely to be my last diesel and a keeper. Will do rear diff at 100k miles.

Assuming that’s Approved Audi, which from memory is 12 months, possibly 2 years if you took finance, depends on offer at the time. If it is Audi, then book it in for someone to review in the New Year. Audi paint specialist will measure paint thickness. They would do this for any anti perforation claim anyway whether approved or not and that will form basis for any claim. Tell tale for me is paint on stone chip protection which looks like it’s peeling. Unusual for paint to strip on rear quarter like that, but again we don’t know specific circumstances.