spartacus 68

Speak to Audi parts and just order via them. Oil is the most expensive item, but you know will be correct specification. Autodoc are hit or miss once it gets this specialised.

Not related to A3, but B9 A4. This is a great video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4u2n1RIkcY I’m planning to do this later this year on my A4 Allroad over a weekend. Have genuine camera, access to VCDS and know my way around trim removal after coming from a B8 where the panoramic sunroof was normally in bits. The other option, and something to consider is to consider buying access to ErWin. If specialised coding still required, and I’m hoping you don’t need it, then main dealer will have access to ODIS software. From memory, Audi main dealer wanted 8 hours labour to do this job. Good luck.

Modern cars are very susceptible to energy fluctuation, so a battery on the way out will throw up all sorts of errors, never mind cold cranking amps to turn the engine over. Sometimes it’s not just starting the car, but the battery under load. As mentioned, it does need coded. Get the best you can afford, likely to be AGM.

Not sure if you can find a smoking gun so-to-speak. VCDS scan would be diagnostic tool of choice, and if error was previously logged but DTCs were not cleared, then that historic data will be there, including instances. I think that’s remote, but never say never. I assume this is brake servo pressure sensor error? Audi onboard computer says keep driving but seek service centre. Reality is that damages ABS as you’ve found out. Other avenues, speak to Audi to see if fault was previously logged with them on digital history. For VCDS to purchase, check out RossTech via Gendan. More details here on issue via Dave Sterl.

Probably blocked EGR valve. Code is P2002. If it’s under warranty, I’m assuming this is not main dealer but independent garage. Blocked EGR valve not necessarily reflective of previous owner, but start stop short run journeys won’t have helped. If EGR doesn’t sort it, then you might need DPF flushed. Full VCDS scan will reveal more as it could be a DPF pressure sensor or blocked AdBlue injector. To be honest I’d investigate further and check air intake manifold. The garage in question will need to spend a little time on labour and a gasket, but that’s belt and braces approach.

We’re not talking main dealer here. Jeez, they pick up on worn wiper blades! At 100k miles you are going to have suspension related issues at some point. Check service history for what’s been done to date. Meyle HD or Lemforder, torque with weight on vehicle. At the very least I’d expect this to show up as an advisory on previous MOT. You’re right to challenge it.

£4k, that’s daylight robbery. Get the car recovered from the main dealer to a trusted Indy. Main dealer labour will be expensive, and depending on the actual turbo, then this company are supplying new stock that Audi would basically fit, whether Garrett, etc. https://turbo-diesel.co.uk/audi-q5-turbos/ Importantly, the oil feed line needs to be renewed, insist on it, as the union nut weeps. In addition, new gasket on exhaust manifold. Oils and filter change as a matter of course.

You need a full VCDS scan first, then you can see the specific error code regards engine management light. This could be a wire break, which is an auto-electrician job. Removing the bumper, takes 30 minutes - so don't be freaked out by that. Dash out is a different ball-game and I personally wouldn't entrust with anyone other than a specialist (non main-dealer). Working clean, space in workshop, anti-marring tools, etc.

Take a photograph of the build sticker, normally located in boot in spare wheel well next to space saver. Try the site https://igorweb.org/equidec.aspx Type in codes followed by ; and [space] to separate. Codes will have numerical 0, not O for Oscar.

Forget all-season tyres, even full winter tyres are no match for ice. Throw a few bags of sand in the boot - pity it's not a quattro. Studded tyres are illegal in the UK anyway. I would still change the gearbox oil. By all means check the drained oil, but after 200k miles, go on the assumption it's original. Nice working space by the way. Also worth brushing up on your knowledge of low-emission zones in Sweden. Like anywhere in Europe - their transport infrastructure will be excellent, so leave the car if you need to head to some of the big cities.

No experience of that box, but speak to Darkside and see what they suggest. Does the car have DriveSelect? What I’ve read suggests leaving the car in dynamic mode to get the best from the engine and gearbox.

Speak to Audi direct. It will be GL4 or fully synthetic GL5. Takes about 2.3 litres, probably 75w-90. Always release the fill plug before releasing the drain plug. On the subject of bushings, any knocks or clunks, deal with them here. Usual suspects are upper arms, drop links and ARB bushings. Fit Meyle HD or Lemforder. Budget for a full set of winter tyres. Can recommend Kumho WinterCraft tyres. As recommended, change your antifreeze. Timing belt is due every 60k miles or 5 years. Include water pump, tensioner pulley and genuine thermostat. No fun braving a winter with a dodgy thermostat. Headlight conversion kit too.

The B8 used to have a sunglasses holder, trouble is they only fit the likes of Ray-Ban and not your average set of Oakleys. On the B9 I suppose you could get a felt pouch for where the charging point is, or better still - does your car have the storage compartment on the right-hand side. It's possible to retrofit.

White worm corrosion, so lacquer lifted and oxide corrosion on the alloy. Certain acid-based wheel cleaners are known to be too aggressive, especially if you don’t wash the car yourself? Couple of options, get them diamond recut, can only be done couple of times, or opt to get them powder coated. Powder coated is more hardwearing. Another option, and probably more expensive is get a winter set of wheels. Road salt kills diamond cut wheels! So use them during summer only and wash by hand with a neutral PH shampoo and avoid car washes or drive throughs where you have no idea what’s being used.

Not aware of any issues with C8 platform. Biggest thing is budget. 50TDI (3 litre) Quattro models are paired with 8 speed Tiptronic unit. These are regarded as bomb-proof. Gearbox is sealed for life, but in reality a gear oil change at 80k miles or 8 years is recommended. 40TDI (2 litre) comes with 7 speed S Tronic unit and needs serviced every 38k miles. On both cars, if I was doing high mileage, then Tiptronic box is the one to go for. That will eat up the miles. In addition, avoid long service regimes. Change oil and filter every 8-9k, which in your case is every 6 months. Extras I’d be looking for as standard given £40k + spend, LED Matrix headlights, rear view camera, adaptive cruise.

Never driven a 35 TDI (163PS) but sounds like it’s paired up with a 7 speed S Tronic box? There’s not many garages I would trust with modifying or remapping a gearbox. Obvious choice would be Darkside Developments (Barnsley). If it is the S Tronic unit it’s due a service every 38k miles. In addition, check with your insurance as remapping will be classed as modifying.

As far as I can see the PDC control (situated on right hand side in boot has part number 8P0919283D). The last letter may change, depends on versions. Double check yourself. It could be anything from broken wires, rather than a defective unit. This part new from Audi is £158, but quick check on EBay, they can be had for as little as £18. Ideally you want to scan the car with VCDS as it will pinpoint the error. More details here regards part search. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A3/412/9/919/919020

Audi cut-backs. On cars with xenon headlights, then yes they are fitted as standard, however on cars they moved over to LED headlights and became option only. On cars with old school halogen - then there's no requirement for wash. LED Matrix will have headlight wash. Other cutbacks include removing oil level dipstick (moved to MMI display), reflectors instead of door open warning lights

If it is chain rattle then it’s linked to long service intervals potentially at the start if the car’s life. The oil viscosity and lubrication properties are diminished by 8k miles, never mind 18k miles. 5w30 will come out like water when draining. What is history of servicing please? Before committing to any repair, you might want to speak to VAG Technic (Dudley) or Decimal Tenths (Newcastle) first. They regularly drop engines and repair tappets (worn needle bearings), stretched chains or slap (worn chain sprockets or broken plastic guides). The figure of £2.2k seems cheap, this is normally double given labour and genuine parts cost. First thing to do would be to drop oil and see if any contaminants. They also check oil filter for any metal filings or swarf. If that all checks out they can remove rocker covers to view camshafts. You can possibly see camshaft wear with endoscope, but only partial view, or even get a stethoscope to the back to listen to see if that reveals more. Chains are meant to be for life of car, but it’s all down to service history and use unfortunately.

Sounds fine, although idle seems a little fast. Possibly a little tappity, when was oil change last done? Oil specification?

I’m trying to work out the history of the car. What’s the mileage? Why was the ECU changed? For the record, replacing an ECU or even repairing it is unusual to say the least. What’s the service regime like? If it’s been on long service intervals every 18k miles then wear could have happened before you bought it. Personally speaking, I would opt for a new battery. In the scale of things it’s a couple of hundred pounds. It will need coded in. Ask the garage for a full VCDS scan to see what’s going on. You’ll need the ECU fitted again before that can commence. I understand the garage’s reluctance to start the car without understanding what’s going on, hence being able to turn over the engine.

5th floor of a multi-storey - I feel for Nicole here, but I doubt this is a flatbed. Most multi-stories are height restricted, and this won’t have been an easy recovery as they are usually tight as a gnat’s chuff. Quattros don’t even like odd tyre depth front and rear as it can overwind the diff. Let’s assume it was a dolly. To be honest the driver should be aware of this if they are in the business of recovering vehicles. Let’s also assume it’s not damaged as would probably have been short journey to specialist. If it’s skipped a tooth that wouldn’t explain no start? If it has skipped a tooth, then I would still expect it to turn over, but no start. There are chain tensioners, plus this is an engine out job to fit, plus guides, etc. I wouldn’t start pulling injectors quite yet.

The quality of cable does matter. Try a factory reset on the MMI system to get rid of any stored phones data.

Can’t see it being an engine seized situation if it was parked up. Assume oil level was checked recently? if mechanic pulls injectors, you’ll need new stretch bolts and sealing washers. Importantly, you said car was towed? Quattros can’t be towed, well they can if all four wheels on the ground, but not with a dolly or better still flatbed, otherwise you risk damaging the diff. Battery, if it’s older than 6-7 years, replace it. The Q7 is a big old lump and the electrics are fussy with ECU. Check fuses as a matter of course. I would also run full VCDS scan and post results.

Has your girlfriend been using this car on dipped beam for a year? You posted originally in March '24!