spartacus 68

True Stevie, but if you start listing every potential diesel issue you’d never buy one. This will be my last diesel. Have come from Audi 80 1.9 TDI, wife had A2 1.4 TDI, then A4 2.5 TDI Quattro, then Allroad 2.0TDI and my current Allroad 3.0 TDI. Throw in a couple of daily drivers including a Skoda Fabia 1.4 TDI and Polo 1.4 TDI. What are the advantages? Better fuel economy, low end torque, engine longevity? All my previous Audis were at 150k plus, except my B8 Allroad which was just 65k miles and treated like a princess. My daily commute before Covid was 50 miles. Euro 6 technology pushed diesel technology to the limits. Yes you can have lower emissions, but VAG engineers left potential ticking time bomb with EGR valves and AdBlue tanks. What’s the option? Petrol? Forums are littered with excessive oil consumption threads or disintegrating rocker arm needle bearings. Electric, well funny you should mention that, wife now has BMW i3 REx, so hybrid. Cracking little car, but it has its quirks. You have a couple of options and this has stood me well. Service it within an inch of its life. On 2.0TDI, then 8-10k oil changes miles. Fuel filter ever 20k miles. Run a can of Forte diesel conditioner through it under 1/4 tank and drive it like you stole it. Always get to temperature and use on journeys of up to 1 hour minimum 2-3 days a week. Use premium diesel every few tanks. If you’re spanner handy, get VCDS. I changed my attitude about mechanics when I was a nipper (circa late 90s) and discovered a ratchet still attached to the underside of my mum’s Vauxhall Astra 1.8 CD (incidentally not a diesel). Returned it to the service desk with a curt “I believe this is yours!”

Must be one of the last B8.5 models on 2015 plate if Euro 6. What is it, 2.0TDI or 3.0? This is actually straight forward. You have 30 days for a used car under statutory legislation (2015 consumer rights). Refuse it. The fact the trader deleted AdBlue tells you all you need to know, that’s a potential MOT fail if discovered. Depending what the issue was in the first place, injector, tank, etc. The difficulty you have is you put a map on it. So two choices, remove the map and return it to standard to the dealer and demand full refund or live with it. I personally wouldn’t have mapped it with an outstanding AdBlue issue, as I’d then want to know what’s going on with EGR, DPF, cat, etc. Are the 50k miles legitimate? Does the history substantiate this? Might be worth running a CarVertical check it? Knowledge is king in these circumstances.

Just looked on Autotrader so £14k gets you a manual (66 plate) 2017, S Line Avant with around 65-80k miles. That’s the 2.0 TDI (190PS), £35 road tax, etc. That’s without Quattro. Nothing wrong with manual 6-speed, but you’re reducing the potential number of cars with any searches. Again, absolutely nothing wrong with S Tronic box as long as it’s been serviced. So every 38k miles. With 2.0TDI, whether low mileage or average miles say up to 80k, then timing belt and water pump need to have been done. Factor this in would be my advice, and replace every 5 years. If you do same search with S Tronic Quattro you can get 17 plate with around 60-70k miles for around £16k. Road tax now £190.

So basically fit a new oil cooler? Audi we’re going to charge you £20k+ for a new engine! Might be worth fitting upgraded oil cooler and investigation additional heat shields around the turbo.

Good job. 3M manufacture a wrap called 2080 BR120 brushed aluminum. That’s about as close as I’ve seen or OE look.

This is on 2013 model, but assume procedure will be the same for 2009 model. Tools wise, socket set, extension bar for 3/8” ratchet for 8/10mm nuts or long handled Torx driver in glove box, special tools to remove media centre if there’s one in the glove box, new G12+ coolant, anti-marring trim tools for centre console. If it were me, I’d remove both front seats for better access. There will be cables underneath for airbags to remove. VCDS to clear any error codes. Quite a good video. Sounds like Danny Dyer working out of Mitchell’s Garage!

Not aware of a flush as such. The injector before the catalytic converter is prone to crystallisation. It can be cleaned with warm water and a little vinegar and a little nylon brush. There are a number of additives on the market, but your guess is as good as mine regards their claim to reduce crystallisation. VAG AdBlue is part number G052910M4.The Issue is more complex, in the respect of what VAG engineers were trying to achieve by reducing Euro 6 diesel emissions with DPF, EGR and AdBlue in conjunction with a catalytic converter. To be honest Euro 5 technology was fine and dandy, but with low emission zones in cities, then you risk a congestion charge if you enter, which is entirely possible if you don’t know the city, or hit roadworks that could detour you. Driving style is important too. Diesels like to get up to temperature, so start stop short trips will likely cause issues down the line. Just my tuppence worth.

Pretty much all Audi’s range whether SUV or Quattro are effectively soft-roaders. The plastic panels under the car extend from the engine under tray to the rear diff. The only thing holding these plastic panels on are 10mm nylon nuts or Torx screws. When you’re negotiating flood water (which is not advisable at the best of times), then water will enter the underside of the car including the plastic panels. You only need a couple of missing fasteners and the force of the water will rip it off.

Usually 32mm and only 25Nm to torque (with a smear of fresh oil on the new ‘o’ ring). Details of the torque value will be on the filter housing.

Personally I’d avoid using the main dealer, but you’re over a barrel here. Their labour rates are exorbitantly high, plus you’re now dealing with non experienced technicians that follow a prescribed digital process from Germany. BMW went down the same route years ago. As the customer you fund the process with new parts until they eventually resolve the issue. AdBlue is likely to be the integral tank, heater, sensor and pump. It’s a sealed unit and the electronic sensor is part of it. There’s also a AdBlue injector near the exhaust catalytic converter that could be crystallised. Personally I’d be looking at that first and follow process of elimination. VCDS may give you specific error codes to search against. My understanding is tank is updates on the car’s ECU using ODIS dealer level software. As it’s Euro 6 diesel, what else can you do? Some folk might say just delete it, including EGR and DPF. First off that’s an MOT fail if identified, plus the AdBlue is reducing emissions.

You’re asking a generic question. There are multiple engine variants on 1.4TFSI platform. If your mates are doing it, get OE, it’s probably less than you think. Failing that a recognised and respected timing belt manufacturer, such as Gates, Continental, etc. This is a critical component, don’t cut corners due to cost.

Yours will be 2.0 litre 252bhp version if Quattro. Its a chain. Technically speaking there’s three. If it’s been on long service intervals, get off of that and into oil changes every 8-10k miles.

Speak to Tomas at VAG Technic. Oxfordshire to Dudley is about 1hr 30mins away. They drop performance engines all the time and know their way around S4. I’m sure there’s logical explanation.

Search out ErWin, you can source specific model and buy access to see procedure involved. Suspect it’s going to be very difficult to do unless you have access to a ramp.

No S Tronic is dual clutch, 7 speed used on 3.0TDI 218hp model. Tiptronic is single clutch with torque convertor and 8 speed. Both need serviced. S Tronic every 38k miles. Tiptronic then Audi will say sealed for life. I don't buy that as there's a ZF8 maintenance kit specifically for it, so I did it earlier this year when it turned 60k miles. Absolutely critical these boxes are maintained as auto gearbox replacement is ridiculously expensive. On quattro, the rear diff gear oil should be changed too anywhere from 60-80k miles.

As suggested, check with Audi, otherwise walk away. A new clutch, flywheel and tyres wouldn’t be enough. These cars are now over 20 years old and could have had numerous owners. Plenty examples out there with history. These are potential future classics, but don’t expect big money. 2002 cars are anywhere from £2,500 to over £10k if mint and low mileage. Roadster versions are nice. Soft tops need to be thoroughly inspected and any musty smell give it a wide berth.

Sorry, I’ve picked you up wrong Ninja. It’s a B9 you’re looking for with £14k to spend. If you still want 3.0TDI, then Tiptronic gearbox is the one to go for. That will be mated to 272hp (200kw) 6 cylinder engine. Pulls like a locomotive. I’ll be honest, your budget needs increase. You’d be looking at closer to £17k which would get you 16-17 plate on around 75k miles. History is absolutely critical. Avoid cars on long service regimes with oil changes every 18k miles. In addition, specification varies. Audi were tight as a gnat’s chuff with extras and they started adding bundles such as sound and comfort packs. When I looked for mine, I wanted it in Allroad Sport version, (as I’d come from same car in B8) with panoramic (panoramic leaks aren’t common on B9), electric towbar, leather, heated front seats, Sat Nav, and virtual cockpit. Colour was important too, I didn’t want black. I found a mint example in Scuba Blue, but Gotland Green is very rare colour option. I found one at the other end of the country but couldn’t live with a cream leather interior! Here’s 2017 brochure: https://autocatalogarchive.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/Audi-A4-Allroad-2017-UK.pdf I’m spanner handy so have VCDS for servicing. Good luck with your search.

Interesting. 2014 is B8. Solid cars. Personally stick to 6-speed manual (177PS diesel turbo). Good workhorses. If you can get Quattro, then all the better plus get one with a decent sound system. Avoid panoramic, it will leak like a sieve. You want history and lots of it. 2.0TDI is fairly bullet proof. Suspension can be an issue, so budget for an overhaul given this is a 10 year old car. Meyle HD, you get kits, that will transform it. Weak points, alloy engine cradle, rear spring mounts, sticky brake calipers (I’m picking faults here), subframe corrosion. Plus points, and one to include, get xenon headlights. Avoid old technology halogen that will be lucky to light up your porch.

Strip everything off. Are the hubs spotless, as in no corrosion? If discs are offset as a result that will vibrate through the car. Suspension wise, check no leaks on hydra bushes (front and rear lower arms). Also rule out missing wheel weights. Corrosion can throw the leads, but you’d feel that constantly. If all that checks out, then the discs for heat spots which could be a sign of sticky pistons. Not unheard of on a 2014 car. Drive car and coast to a stop. If discs hot, there’s your problem.

Fit Meyle HD or Lemforder, that’s about as close to OE as you can get. Febi too.

I think you need to stop thinking about it so much. If you bought from an independent garage rather than privately, there’s a good chance it would have cost about a grand less, but that’s life. Quick check on Autotrader reveals these cars are still pretty scarce. It’s low mileage, hopefully in a colour and specification you like, and you’ve got the summer ahead of you. If it’s an auto box get it serviced. Usually every 40k miles. Similarly oil and filter changes ever 8-10k miles. Audi do suffer from corrosion on subframes. To be honest, early cars we’re better built. Take the wheels off and treat the suspension and subframe to a thorough snow foam, and jet wash, and once dry spray Lanoguard or similar on exposed metalwork. Paintwork too, any chips touch up. On the roof, it’s possible to treat it, if it’s not looking it’s best. Replacement roofs are expensive, so consider additional waterproofing from GTechniq. Check the cabin filter. These rarely get changed regularly. Mann filter including charcoal filters will be exactly the same as genuine OE.

I don't know what the compression is meant to be on your engine? You will probably get the full specification details on erWin, but you will need to pay for access. My understanding is diesel compression is high, around 350psi and cylinders should stay within variance of 10% of each other. I wouldnt refit the same glow plugs. If they break you're in a world of pain. On the stuck one, spray PlusGas on it and let it soak in. I would refit the injectors and run it to get to temperature, then try and remove it. You probably need more information than your current diagnostics can give you. Think about VCDS. Honestly it pays for itself on this car and future cars. Is EGR blocked, is DPF blocked?

I'm sure there are, but it won't be genuine. I got an OE camera in December for my A4 Allroad, but its wired and will activate as soon as it goes in reverse. I'm waiting for better weather before attempting the retrofit.

Parts diagram here. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A2/248/9/955/955000 The motor was made by Valeo. From memory, as my wife used to have an A2 is the wiper arm can’t cope with the sweep. It eventually wears at the spindle. Aero blades help to a point. Anything on EBay could be just as bad, but worth a punt if the money is right. Beware of breaker yards, they normally ask top dollar then fail to deliver a serviceable item.

This is how Audi main dealers make quite exorbitant profits on essential service items. There is a case, assuming you’re not spanner handy to put it to an independent garage that you trust. On a 4 year old car, then the caliper and associated bolts will be easy to work on. Would expect 3 hours all in. Audi won’t make the physical parts. BMW for example use Textar, chances are Audi use ATE and TRW. If it has to be OE, then TPS which supply the dealer would be able to supply the independent garage.