spartacus 68

This is how Audi main dealers make quite exorbitant profits on essential service items. There is a case, assuming you’re not spanner handy to put it to an independent garage that you trust. On a 4 year old car, then the caliper and associated bolts will be easy to work on. Would expect 3 hours all in. Audi won’t make the physical parts. BMW for example use Textar, chances are Audi use ATE and TRW. If it has to be OE, then TPS which supply the dealer would be able to supply the independent garage.

Not advocating DPF, Ad Blue and EGR delete. All are MOT fails. There's probably lots of life left in this old Q5 yet.

I hit a pheasant lurking in the undergrowth. It was startled and had taken off but ended up cracking the windscreen. You can drive defensively to a point, but with pheasants, deer and other animals, they are none the wiser to traffic and are just crossing the road.

That is poor show, especially as it’s been new with all the service stamps. Surely a goodwill gesture towards the costs? I’d be inclined to take it further and take it up with the dealer principal to liaise with Audi UK. Getting the car to temperature and a decent run on the motorway will help. Diesels hate short runs.

Sounds like EGR valve is stuck in open position. I’d either replace it or clean it. Does your system diagnostic allow you to do a forced regeneration? I would do that afterwards so you’re starting from scratch. I’m not familiar with this OBD reader. If it were me, then I’d get a can of Forte diesel conditioner and drop it in the tank once you’re down to around 75 miles range and drive it hard. I also assume this is a Euro 5 diesel, so no AdBlue, etc. Now obviously you’ve just changed the injectors, so can understand your hesitancy. Used to run an old 2.5TDI V6 and swore by that to get it through MOT, etc. In those days the filter was in the engine bay. Now it’s under driver’s side. The car will smoke a little, but that will clear. Renew the fuel filter and while your at it, the air filter too. Not sure how long you leave between oil changes, but 10k miles maximum. Use Castrol 5W30 Edge LL and renew the oil filter.

Personally I’d claim through your insurance. Buying second hand will be fraught with issues. If it’s been in the body shop I assume for an unrelated incident or paint, then I can understand your hesitancy to go through insurance. Speak to Audi main dealer to determine the exact part number. Often parts are updated after manufacture (usually last build letter). As you know LED Matrix prices are uber expensive. If you go down second hand route, then be very wary as to where it’s come from. Years ago I bought a headlight for an A2 from a breaker yard. Other end of the spectrum in terms of cost and technology, but the headlight wasn’t as advertised, as it had been opened up at some point in its life so condensation was an issue. Also got a new xenon headlight (with LED) for my previous A4 Allroad after a slight nudge to a wall in snow. The intensity of the LED was brighter on the new unit. First world problems I know. If you get a unit second-hand, make sure it comes with some sort of limited warranty. A label on it saying it’s been tested mean nowt. Anyway, I hope you get it sorted.

I don’t believe Audi don’t know about this. Forums are littered with issues related to AdBlue, either the injector, integral pump and tank (which is sealed unit) or the sensor which is programmed to the car. Audi will just throw parts at it, hence they don’t repair. Did you buy the car from Audi as Approved Used, as that should be covered for at least 1 year, possibly 2 years if on finance. If from non franchise dealer then depending on length of time you should be covered under consumer rights for first 30 days. Changing AdBlue tank is very expensive as you know.

I'd take that invoice down if it were me (you can ask admins), it has personal information on it of the last owner. If it was genuine Audi parts, they carry a 2 year warranty. All I can see on there was the garage took it to Audi, probably to reconfigure the air settings. It can't have just been to scan it. VCDS can reset settings. There's probably not much you can do until you determine where the leak is. To be honest fitting the air suspension is not overly complicated, however any suspension work has underlying problems with siezed bolts, plus access to a lift would be useful. I bought air tools a couple of years ago because I've had Audis for years, and broken springs are part and parcel of running them. If it were me, wash the car at the weekend. Snowfoam under the arches and remove the wheels and use a light brush to agitate the air strut, then jetwash. The area needs to be clean to see any leak. Get a light detergent and spray both front corners with wheels off to see if you can observe anything. Also check the valve body. Same procedure, but don't soak anything. Its just the area where the air lines from the valve come from.

That's not the invoice. Got any part numbers? Genuine Audi will be around £2k. Will be dependant on engine, chassis, etc. I don't recognise half the brands on Autodoc, but Arnott, £600+ and Bilstein £800+. Classed as air suspension strut. They are not servicible item as in repair, if it leaks - replace. The air pipe to the air suspension strut would be worth a look, just to make sure it's not leaking there. Before you do anything - double check the part number. Suspension even on standard springs is a complicated. The springs are rated for the car and there are multiple options. Similarly with air suspension, there are the related components. I know this isn't for your car (C6 S6 airbag), but pictures are decent and it lets you see what it's like. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274680663622 LLL parts showing more detail: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/4F0616039AB

Air suspension can be complicated. The old C5 A6 Allroad was plagued with issues and it's expensive to put right. The reason I suggested VCDS, is it takes a certain amount of the guesswork out of fault finding and can help with calibration if and when it's fixed. You have headlight levelling sensors on the car front and rear, but suspect they'll be okay if car is resetting on start-up. That said, if you're not spanner handy, then the car will need to go to a trusted independent garage. Personally I'd avoid the main dealer at all costs or you're literally talking thousands given it's 2011 build. They tend to throw parts at a situation to resolve. If you bought the car privately - you'll have to absorb the cost to put right. If you bought it retail through a second hand dealer then you are protected via Consumer Rights Act 2015, but only for first 30 days. If the fault has arisen outside this period, then speak to them. Normally car warranties, say 3 months aren't worth the paper they are written on and are often under-written by third parties with more small-print than you can shake a stick at.

If you had VCDS - that would let you see the high pressure flow rate. I'd also want to check the soot level for the DPF and make sure it's doing a regeneration cycle, plus any other error codes logged. There's an underlying problem here if everything was done to specification regards seating the injectors. Noticed if fuel consumption has dropped like a stone, other than high idle?

Consider getting VCDS yourself. It’s pretty invaluable with these types of jobs for fault finding. Check out Gendan site. You can get 3 VIN for around £220 and unlimited upgrades via Rosstech. You’ll also need an old laptop to run it on. Back to issue, if previous owner paid nearly £3k, and that included compressor in 2023, then that kind of rules out the compressor in my book. Each wheel has its own suspension unit, plus air line and union seal to the unit. You could do worse than spray soapy water on the area you suspect and sit it out and look for bubbles. VCDS may identify, but it’s useful to reset, clear faults, etc. It needs to be under load, so removing the wheel to observe may not repeat the fault.

What’s the history on the engine prior to the injectors blowing? Not sure about codes. ideally you need VCDS to see instance of faults, if historical or as a result of once the injectors blow off. Potentially linked to EGR, etc. I’ve read one instance, think it was in a VW, where they enlarged M6 to M8 on the clamp bolt, but that’s not the case here, it’s actually shearing off. Area needs to meticulously clean including injector bores ensuring the old copper seals are removed. Also noticed there’s a ‘o’ ring seal on the injectors. Use new stretch bolt and torque to specification. Check out Dave Sterl, this is on 2.0TDI CJCA engine.

Not used LLL Parts, but useful for part numbers. Used Autodoc. Allow at least 10 days for delivery.

How did you get on with the rear spring mount? I did it on B8 and was a lot simpler than B9. They tend to go every 3-4 years. Leave it and you risk breaking a spring. Regards discs - if its got a lip, then yes, I would say it's worth changing discs and pads too. At the end of the day the A6 isn't lightweight, so it's all relative. Depends what was on from new. I don't rate Brembo any more - so fitted Zimmermann.

No panoramic.

Yes, you can order a RS6 without panoramic, but they are going to be relatively rare. Audi introduced packaged trim levels and top of the range Vorsprung edition has all the bells and whistles, and so it should on a £120k+ car. Most people opt for the panoramic as it lightens the interior. On the B8 A4 range, sunroofs used to leak like a sieve. Part was made by Webasto and has an inherent design flaw. Not heard of issues with B9 A4 range or C8 A6. £90k buys you a 24 plate with less than 5k miles in Dundee. https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202409073770112?sort=relevance&searchId=a80236fe-bdda-48b7-9f45-bfedb61a576c&advertising-location=at_cars&make=Audi&model=RS6 Avant&page=1&postcode=AB33 8UA&fromsra

Mileage will be the largest contributor, but age, weather, and typical commute will take its toll. Give you an example, my wife’s i3 REx has regenerative braking, so the discs or pads are hardly used. That said we live in Scotland, so the discs take a beating with road salt. I’ve changed them twice (2015 build) with Textar (BMW OE). Car on 90k miles. Good opportunity to strip down brake sliders, check rubber dust boots, ceramic paste on pad backs, etc On a 2020 A6 it would be worth a brake strip down even if the pads and discs look fine. You’ll need VCDS for rear electro mechanical handbrake. Will be due brake fluid change too. If discs have a lip, then they will be due. Any scoring too. Front brake carrier bolts are known to seize. Not unique to A6, on A4 platform too due to oxide corrosion.

Laser make conical locking wheel nut extraction sockets. Find one that fits over it, hammer on (needs to be tight) with lump hammer, and extract. Better with extension breaker bar than a power tool. If you’re not confident, just take it to a garage.

What are you scanning the car with? Ideally need VCDS to pulled logged errors. Is the coolant circulating? Any issue with overheating before car turns off? Also check battery voltage, ESC could be linked to failing battery.

Can’t answer your question directly, but having looked at subframes the part number will only be visible one you drop it. Chances are it will have been revised (last letter) an over the model production. Look on LLL Parts to cross reference. You’ll need new subframe bolts.

Could be anything. You say noise increases with wheel rotation. Inner or outer driveshaft CV boots, worn auxilliary drive belt pulley bearing. If clutch feels fine (assuming it’s manual), then gearbox probably okay, unless biting point feels high and any vibration through clutch?There’s also possibility of flywheel. Again guessing. A good mechanic will be able to pinpoint that quite quickly.

Bound to be unrelated. Stick a multi-meter on the battery to check it's not on the way out. Should be around 12.4v.

Can we make him an offer?

I'm sure a specialist trimmer can fix. If the rest of the roof is in good condition, then you would need to source glass and have it glued in. They will likely need the car for a couple of days. There are a few second hand convertible units I've seen, but to be honest they have grubby headliners, and you've no idea if the mechanical side works give these parts are pretty niche anyway and how long they have been sitting in a warehouse somewhere. Double check against here: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A3CA/778/8/871/871000 From what I can see - replacement glass won't be available from Audi - but you might be able to obtain via Saint Gobain/Pilkington who produce glass units for manufacturers. It will have integral antenna (GPS/radio), green tint, heated, etc. Read a couple of threads where Bolton Interiors were mentioned. Worth a call.