spartacus 68

Vacuum leak, wiring issue, restricted airflow or the MAF sensor itself. Difficult to say. If it were me, I’d scan with VCDS and go from there. If you’re replacing the MAF sensor, it needs to be OE. Pattern parts usually doesn’t resolve, or issue returns. If there’s been a performance air box on the car, not sure if anyone still uses oiled K&N filters these days, then yes, replace the MAF sensor.

On subject of transmission, on 2.0 TDI on C6 will be either manual 6 speed or multitronic CVT auto. Needs gear box fluid and filter every 40k. Manual 6 speed treat to gear oil change at 100k.

You want a year's MOT on any of these cars. If buying privately, do your research. You can pull previous MOT history via government check. Also speak to owner. Genuine owner will have paperwork and lots of it, plus history. For these sort of vehicles, keep your search area tight. No point travelling for 'immaculate example' only to be disappointed. Always drive a car from cold, and cross reference vehicle VIN on inspection. For a car you're prepared to buy, and given we live in a world where we're surrounded by scammers, then pay for a vehicle report such as carvertical. RAC offer something similar, but less detailed. If you have VCDS, definately scan the car. Diesels on the whole are robust. At this age, its Euro5 technology. Regular oil changes are key to engine longevity. Anything on long service intervals 15-18k intervals, walk away. All 2.0 TDI engines will be belt driven, so again, when was toothed belt done? My advice is 60k miles or every 5 years plus waterpump. If any cars have panoramics, then check carpets, and headlining for water leaks. Test all electrics, central locking, etc. Sat Nav likely out of date, but it is what it is. Scuffed wheel rims, someone can't drive. Alignment will be out and I'll bet it pulls to the kerb. Check coil spring height. Easy test with your hand on level ground from tyre to arch.

Main Audi dealer will be minimum £200 per hour for a technician, not a mechanic. As suggested, find a trusted independent and expect to pay for health report. A 16 year old car, if serviced properly can still be kept on the road, however, except you'll need to budget for some of the repairs. You don't need to do everything at once. What's critical? And what's worth doing, say in 6 months.

Should be good for 80-100k miles if not longer. Doubt Audi had your thoughts on access when they built the engine! Just watched a video on I think it was Kia or Hyundai rear break pads, to access rear carrier, one of the rear arms and the shock absorber needs to be removed to access the bolt, I mean, what the actual? Regards harness, search Charles Trent. I’d be very sceptical of anything from breakeryard.com

Heavy duty as name suggests will handle weight better. Are you towing for example, are you planning to carry heavy weights? Sport is stiffer than standard when negotiating bends, less body roll. It might even have an uprated rear ARB. Call me old school, I’d probably keep it original on sports, and keep rubber bushes too instead of going down poly bush route. Regards getting clearance to use breaker bar. Get a decent trolley jack such as 2.5 tonne low profile one. Costco usually have ones at reasonable price and quality is good. Also invest in deep slot jack pads to protect the sills. Once you’re comfortable with height on one side, get an axle stand in. Then do the other side. Now return to the side you’re working on, you can still afford to go up a little in height, as long as axle stand extends. Front wheels must be securely chocked. Same with other side. Throw in another trolley jack and the road wheels for good measure. You’ll find this should give you the right height, to break the tension. As suggested, I’ve even used a small Halfords 1.5-tonne trolley jack to lift the breaker bar if space is tight. Socket needs to be hammered on, and no lateral flex on the breaker bar.

First thing to do, since car is new to you is determine age of battery. If battery is old, say 5 years+, then replace it. If no paperwork, do some digging. Not sure on 2006 model if it needs coded to the car if you replace with VCDS? Most batteries these days are AGM. Fit based in same cold cranking amps. Again on batteries, there may be a date stamp on the terminals, or printed with serial number, etc. You can get a cheap multimeter and charge the existing battery on trickle charge to do some tests. For arguments sake, say 12.4-12.6v from cold. Once running, the alternator should bring it up to around 14.4-14.7v. I’ve never heard of a defective ECU causing battery drain. That said, if the ECU has been subject to water damage as it normally lives under the windscreen cowl, then anything is possible. Car sirens have inbuilt lithium back up battery. They eventually fail. Search YouTube for fixes. I’d also be looking at aftermarket electrical work, sub woofers, stereo, aftermarket lights, any additional security, etc. If you or a friend has VCDS, run a scan. That might not tell you the source, but could point you to a potential culprit, as existing DTC errors are logged. Any come back regards how you bought the car? You have some protection within first 30 days, unless private sale. If you trust garage in their diagnosis, search out a business that can replace the ECU and recode. There are businesses such as Autotronics that do this type of work. Never done it myself, but worth investigating.

Heat, PlusGas, and an air hammer (with compressor) if your budget can stretch. For caliper bolts, access to use an extension bar is by far the best solution to get leverage. On the fronts they are probably 18mm bolts, and the rear, I think 8mm Allen hex bolts. Invariably corroded. Wire brush first. Then hammer in Allen bit on a 1/2” drive. That’s where I would use the air hammer first to shock it, then the breaker bar. I’ve even used another car jack to raise the extension bar given vehicle is on the ground, apart from being jacked up. On older cars, especially suspension, then you’re going to come across seized bolts. If any of the parts are aluminium, then you’ll get oxide corrosion on steel bolt threads. That’s why the infamous pinch bolt on the front strut on VAG cars was such a pain. Of course they make one-trick ponies such as the Klann tool, but you can also get opposite end and use Laser which can be as effective. Meyle suspension components are good. Normally 2 year warranty. Meyle HD (heavy duty) is 4 years. Lemforder is OE. If you’re looking for spring set ups, as Audi, in fact VAG would have multiple combinations, check out LLL parts to get a part number, to see if heavy duty ones can still be sourced. Existing springs will be colour coded with paint dots. Not sure if your 2002 A6 is Quattro, but details here on heavy duty springs. Cross reference with engine code. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A6Q/264/5/511/511016 Front wheel drive version here for 4/6 cylinder cars. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A6/264/5/511/511012

Didn't even know there was such a thing as a G-Tron. Can I ask is this a UK based car? Like all new technologies, that comes with its own issues, such as knowledgeable technical support, main dealer only (that comes at a price), and with Audi that doesn't always equate to quality. Anyway, enough of my ramblings. B9 Matrix, great headlights. Never experienced them personally when driving. But have long been an advocate of decent headlights. Bring back Bi-xenon headlights! Appearance is normally a series of cubed sections on the headlight. Once you've seen one, you know what to search for. I think you need to be stricter on your car searches. As soon as say the extras you're looking for, such as panoramic, a particular colour, virtual dash, then the seller knows you're particular. Matrix LED will be an expensive extra or fitted as standard on Vorsprung editions. Cornering lights. No idea if that's included in the technology. I would assume high beam assist is one of the main advantages. Anyway, good luck on your search.

Glow plug 4 is cylinder 4, so typically furthest from timing belt on 2.0TDI. Personally, I’d be changing them all. Think OE is Beru and uses either deep 8mm or 10mm socket. Spray penetrating release such as PlusGas on all plug seats a few days prior to work and only once car to operating temperature. Use 3/8” or 1/4” ratchet, and don’t over-leverage. If it snaps you’re in a world of pain. Use smear of ceramic grease on new threads. Ensure the cylinder bore is spotless, you might need a vacuum cleaner to suck up any debris first, then microfibre rag on a flat head after removing plug. If not confident, leave it to a garage.

Hi Steve, 2016 A4 is B9 platform, not B5. Admin can you please move. Any indication of history of this, mileage? Could be anything, but if it’s been checked out, then assuming garage checked ARB links, front coil springs, upper and lower arms. Upper arms can be tested in situ. Raise car and hold road wheel at 12 and 6 o’clock. Watch the strut where the arms and rubber bushes join for any movement there. Lower bushes (are hydra bushes), can only tell with pry bar. Lemforder are OE. ARB bushes are relatively inexpensive. Meyle HD or Lemforder. Replace in pairs. Early B9 A4s (prior to 2017) suffered chassis creak or knock. More details here as there was a TPI issued. https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a4-b9-platform-discussion-212/creaking-noise-due-faulty-body-panel-lemon-2952951/page9/

I personally like to remove brake carriers, if nothing else, to run a smear of ceramic grease on bolt threads. It’s also easier to wire brush and file any corrosion. That broken bolt will probably have to be drilled out. With that sort of corrosion, usually induction heater, plenty of penetrating release.

No, that’s not normal. So basically 19k miles from Feb 2021 to April 2026. You want complete transparency from seller. If car was in storage, then I’d be looking for receipts. Even if car was doing 4k a year, then I’d still oil change annually.

I’m not planning on selling the A4 anytime soon, it took ages to find, panoramic, electric towbar, virtual dash, etc. Servicing is key, but we’ll see how tax regimes in the future work, as often it’s just too expensive. Brother used to have 3.0TDI X5, but road tax was getting daft, plus it used to eat tyres.

If you mean why my last diesel - that's easy. Right now I'm on a B9 3.0 TDI Allroad on Euro 6. Beautiful car to drive, 600Nm of torque and importantly you can still service them yourself if you choose to do so. If you look at what VW are doing - they have removed ErWin service recently so dealer only, plus on Golf 8 platform for example, you can't even change out rear pads without ODIS dealer level software. Besides, diesels are paying heavy price. AdBlue satisfies NOx emissions, but they have high failure rate as it's integral unit, as contains heater, level and pump. Euro 5 technology was more robust.

I don't know what you mean, you'll need to elaborate please.

Normal regeneration is every 300 miles and is linked to ash/soot level once it gets to 40-45%. Normally after a decent journey, when car is up to temperature, then it will kick in. On stop/start, then it can be switched off via VCDS software. Car is new to you, and on 160k, so anything is possible. Yes, you can manually disable too via instrument switch, but that would reset, each time. A weak battery could also be attributed. You’re doing well to get 7-8 years from a battery now, and cars are susceptible to voltage drops. New ones are usually AGM and coded to the car. On cold, not started, with a multimeter, you should be getting 12.4-12.7V. VCDS software isn’t just for scans, as mentioned, you can prime fuel filter, retract rear electro-mechanical brake for new discs, perform learn process if you were replacing sunroof motor for example, add sweep on rev counter on start up, dip passenger wing mirror on reverse, etc. Something to consider down the line.

Forgot to mention, its a timing belt too. Personally speaking, 5 years or 60k miles for interval. Change tensioner pulley and water-pump at the same time. These are very good engines and will run for years if properly maintained. Change oil annually (5w30) or by 10k miles. VCDS is diagnostic software available via Gendan. No real issues with these cars. Panoramic sunroofs are known to leak. If bi-xenon headlights (better than halogen projectors), then headlight washers should work. Rear spring seats corrode. Check the exhaust central clamps (usually rust through), replace with stainless Mykalor clamps. Brake calipers if still original suffer oxide corrosion that forces dust sleeve to swell and you end up with sticky caliper, brakes overheating. I rebuilt mine with Budweg kit.

Euro 5 common rail diesel engine (177PS), no AdBlue. However will have DPF, EGR, cat, etc. Tail pipes shouldn't be sooty. Any indication of turbo or actuator work in history? Engine will normally regenerate after a long drive once up to temperature. Car should have start stop. If that's not working, it's either been disabled, or needs regen. If you're concerned about emissions, add Forte diesel conditioner to the fuel tank when you're on low fuel light and drive hard for 10-20 miles. Replace the fuel filter (lives under the driver's side). Mann filters are very good. Few underbody fasteners to remove to get to it. Assuming you don't have VCDS, (as there's a prime function), then engage ignition to hear fuel pump prime (but don't start), a 5-6 times to prime it. Top up with some premium diesel and see if situation improves.

That’s unfortunate. If you’re with AA or another breakdown recovery they may be able to help. However that tends to be on older style cars, using a wedge on door lip. If it were me, I’d break the passenger door glass. The glass will splinter. The rear will be factory tinted I assume, so finding exact replacement could be tricky. The B8 from memory has auto lock on exit set up in MMI in settings. You will probably want to change that down the line. It’s happened to me before, but had to get a friend to drive to retrieve the other key. For new glass, the door card will need to come off.

At end of day it's your decision. Audi will subcontract roadside to one of main players. Basic roadside from AA is £72 a year. Cars outside 3 years manufacturer warranty, then study the smallprint in detail. If no quibble policy except for wear and tear on brakes, tyres, timing belt, then go for it. You could simply put the money aside as contingency fund. If auto box, such as S Tronic, then that needs serviced every 38k miles. I doubt that's covered. Also get car through full health check before signing. Rear spring rubber seats on A4 Avant for example are inexpensive parts, but expensive to fit.

I take it you’ve checked in the boot, under the floor? On the B8 model it was on the right hand side next to the spare wheel, clipped in. Suspect B9 would be the same next to space saver wheel.

Audi’s service plans are very expensive. They are designed to appeal to new owners and usually a bolt on package that some people accept at purchase, especially when spending thousands on a car. The reality is somewhat different. Let’s break it down. The basic plan is £719 for two years. That buys you an oil service (basically oil and filter) and an inspection service (oil, air and pollen filter) every 9,300 miles. I’m sure there was a query on the site recently as it didn’t include spark plugs. Usually due at 40k miles. https://www.audi.co.uk/en/owners/service-and-maintenance/service-plans/ Main Audi dealer doesn’t not buy expertise. Like Frank, I moved away from main dealer garages probably 30 years ago. I can see past the branded coffee cups and courtesy wash and vacuum, and know that the £200+ per hour rate, a fraction will go to the technician. The rest pays for the franchise running costs, plus a healthy profit. As the car is new, then find a garage you trust, preferably Audi or VAG independent that know what they are doing. I’ve had similar experiences with BMW as my wife has a i3 REx. Great car and the support or rather lack of it from the main dealer was evident when there was an issue withe the generator engine. They failed to fix after three attempts. That was their master tech too. Spent over £1k and said never again. Bought ISTA software, so service both my wife’s car and VCDS to run my own. Not suggesting you break out the spanners. Maintain the warranty, especially if the car is is mild hybrid. That tech is increasingly complex. Anyway enjoy that new car feeling.

Annual servicing all day long, but certainly every 10k miles. Audi moved to long service regimes because they were shifting cars with finance and offered free servicing as an incentive. They also introduced it to seduce fleet dealers who hoped to reduce their running costs. The whole thing is a fallacy. The reality is no synthetic oil can retain the lubrication properties to protect an engine after 18k miles. Down the line, an unsuspecting new owner will buy an ex-fleet or leased 3-4 year old car and discover premature engine wear and pick up the bill. For all the costs of an oil filter and 5-6 litres of fresh oil, just change it. I personally do it every 5k miles, still use Castrol Edge 5w30 LL, but my 2017 plate 3.0 TDI Allroad will be my last diesel.

If LED or LED Matrix - unfortunately that's the price. It's one of these scenarios whether you go through your insurance, given costs. Breaker yards are also fraught with difficulty, in terms of description and comeback if there's an issue with the headlight. Used breakeryard.com - never again. If it was me, then Charles Trent. With second hand - you'll likely find component protection that can only be adapted with dealer level software such as ODIS, however I could be wrong though.