spartacus 68

Any smell in the car I’d be looking at ant-bacterial treatment on air conditioning. You can get similar smell from screen wash reservoir if not using correct additive. If it’s from the car under load, next thing to check would be catalytic converters.

No, never tried it. Cheapest VCDS package is £225 for 3 VIN licence, plus an old laptop. Works on all VAG cars, so Audi, VW, Skoda, etc. Very useful for this procedure. Remember and hook up battery on trickle charge when swapping out discs and pads. You can use it for fuel pump priming, clearing DTCs, fault finding, etc.

Can’t hear the video, but to be honest between road noice and background noise, these sort of videos rarely identify culprit. If you had new outer CV joint, that may have contributed, especially if drive shaft boot was torn and and CV joint was open to the elements and contaminated. if you’ve got a worn wheel bearing then you’ll hear constant reverberating sound, around about 40-50mph. You might be able to pinpoint if you jack up car, and hold the coil spring and get someone to rotate the wheel. Any friction on the bearing will transfer to the spring which you should feel. Straight forward if your spanner handy, although I hate generation 2 bearings which are the press in hub variety on VW Polos for example. If generation 3 wheel bearing, then they are held in place with triple square bolts. Useful to have air hammer as the bearing is usually welded in with oxide corrosion if an alloy strut. You’ll need a breaker bar, torque wrench, etc. Fit quality F.A.G. Bearings given labour involved.

My rule of thumb is 60k miles or 5 years on 4 cylinder diesels. Change the water-pump, and tensioner pulley as a matter of course. Cold starts, towing, extremes of heat all have to be factored in. Do auxilliary belts at the same time. Sure I’ve read that it can go to 140k miles, but if it breaks, then you pick up the bill. It’s not normally the belt but wear on ancillary components such as bearings on pulleys, water-pump, etc.

Can’t help with the paint code, but if you’re refurbishing yourself, Würth silver paint aerosols are as close to OE as you can get without going down professional wheel refurb route with powder coat, etc. Needs a few coats of lacquer too. Get the Würth 891090 spray attachment.

That's more complicated than physically removing it. I suspect you'd see glue stains and no guarantee of success. The foam is attached with a contact adhesive, but its the headlining material that's detached from the foam i suspect. The correct way is to remove the headlining. It's basically a card composite with foam backed headlining glued on. As the glue dries or the card is subject to damp, the headlining material separates. On a 20 year old car, I understand that using these self tapper buttons is a fix, temporary or otherwise.

Pretty sure its a cardboard composite. No need to use a drill. The buttons I've seen use self-tappers and the cloth button clips over.

Waxoil won't stop the corrosion. The alloy insert is there to strengthen the rubber suspension seat. It corrodes from the inside. Leave it and you risk the spring breaking. Easier to replace on a 2WD car. On quattro, you can remove lower shock mount. You need a piston jack to extend lower trailing arm down. Worst case scenario, loosen subframe bolt a few turns too. No need to undo the eccentric bolt either.

That's fair enough. This is a forum, so you're going to get different opinions and using roof lining buttons in my opinion is a bodge, but each to their own. Here's the process on a B6 saloon. Good news is rear window doesn't need to come out. Removing front seats would probably help. You also don't need that interior grab handle too, looks like B6 are screwed/bolted in.

I’m know I’m quoting the obvious here, but insurance business is based on risk. Their business algorithms are set up to minimise losses based on age of person driving, experience (advanced driving qualifications and protected no claims), job, where they live, the car value and insurance rating (1-50 set by Thatcham), and where it’s deemed high risk, then they set the premiums accordingly or simply refuse insurance. A bit like a casino, the house always wins. Health and travel insurance works on exactly basis. I hope you get a satisfactory outcome Tony, but suspect it will be expensive.

You must be knowledgeable and spanner handy if you have rebuilt turbo. Given the time to remove and the likelihood that it could potentially fail again, I opted for a new unit from https://turbo-diesel.co.uk on my old A4 Allroad. Back to your issue. The actuator can be be tested with a hand held vacuum pump if it holds pressure. Trouble is, it’s pretty specialised to remove actuator and reconfigure. On new units they are set up from factory, so basically plug and play. Did you renew the oil feed line to the turbo? The union nut at the turbo is known to be problematic and can weep if cracked off. In addition, did you renew the gasket to the exhaust? What are you using to read codes? VCDS would be software of choice and I’m sure would log actuator fault if low boost.

Read a similar error, that was eventually traced to a vacuum leak off the EGR cooler. I think at the very least you are going to need VCDS and then measuring blocks which basically gives you live data. The fault code is one thing, but you need to understand why, and live data should help pinpoint. This was on 2010 model. https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/378244/

Go to a professional body shop. Had a similar issue with an old 2012 A4 Allroad. It’s classed as Platinum Grey 1RR, however will no doubt vary across models. When I spoke to Audi main dealer, it didn't even show up as a code. Phoned a few body shops and ones that are Audi and Porsche approved and they said it can’t be blended. Entire panel would need to be painted. As it’s matt/satin effect, it’s notoriously difficult to achieve consistent effect with rattle cans. Hope that helps.

ErWin, pay to view. You can download and print off pages you need. Given only 2018, then you’re going to need VCDS, plus if you buy additional parts, bear in mind they need to be new, otherwise you get into security component protection which only ODIS dealer level software can clear.

DPF and or EGR Cooler. It can get expensive depending on individual circumstances. I would contact the garage, irrespective if it’s 2 hours away. The part-exchange shouldn’t affect anything.

Remove the engine under-tray. Check coolant level first and top up, then get car to operating temperature and park over cardboard. Shouldn’t be too difficult to trace the leak. Even determining which side of the engine is useful. Have decent LED torch handy. Difficult to pinpoint, petrol and diesel version have different characteristics. Suggest you change your mechanic too. Three trips and no resolution? https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/14457-coolant-loss/ https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/384742/

No idea about those roof lining buttons, but I’ll bet it will look horrendous by the time you’re finished. The only way to fix properly is to remove, strip off the old headlining, and use new OE VAG roof lining with a suitable contact adhesive. Tools wise, long handled torx screwdrivers, and this special tool for interior grab handles. https://vw.snapon.com/SpecialToolsDetail.aspx?itemId=38730184 There’s curtain airbags in there, so disconnect battery and leave for 30 mins. If this is a B6 Avant, headlining can come out via the tailgate. Usual electric connections as sun-visors, central convenience lighting, etc. If there’s a sunroof, then the panel detaches around it with metal clips.

Got the same engine in a 2017 A4 Allroad. The 3.0 TDI and Tiptronic 8-speed is wonderful to drive. Loads of low end torque. On A6, then you have air suspension as standard. Normally pretty bullet proof, but these cars are getting on a bit, so due diligence and all that. If you have access to VCDS, then worth scanning the car for any historic faults. This will be Euro 6, so have AdBlue, DPF and EGR. Use premium diesel and don't do short start stop journeys. Make sure nothing has been deleted. Suspension wise, if over 100k miles check advisories on previous MOTs. Upper arm and front lower trailing arms (hydra bushes). Check all the toys work. Sat Nav will likely need update, and potentially need air con regas. History is critical, so that's oil changes every 5-8k miles, 10k miles at a push. Rear diff gear oil change by 100k miles and ZF make service kit for transmission. Personally I'd do by 8 years or 80k miles. Check bodywork, but normally age well with very little rust. Rear subframes known to get crusty, so wash down and coat with Lanoguard. Not aware of issues with panoramic sunroof if fitted. B8 A4 platform was different and plagued with issues. Clean out drain channels. Specific grease from VW to lube guides, although expensive.

Suspect it’s 5W30 LL. You can cross check on Castrol’s site basically any oil that’s VW 504.00 / VW 507.00 compatible. The LL is long life, but change at the next scheduled interval.

Cars with Quattro drive will crab on full lock which might explain lurch. The A3 uses Haldex system so it’s basically on FWD unless speed sensors say otherwise. I doubt there much to worry about. If worried, get the car scanned with VCDS.

SKF is a quality part. Stick with your mechanic, if you trust them, then that counts for a lot. I’m sure you’ll get to the bottom of it.

Take it back. Transmission issues rarely resolve themselves. Assuming this is 7-speed S tronic. It needs serviced every 38k miles. If gearbox was serviced, I’d want written notification of that. It could be a firmware issue of course, so would need need a scan to check what’s what, but first thing the dealer is likely to do is drop the oil, new filter, etc. If there any contamination in the gearbox, then that’s on them.

You’re right to flag it. Something isn’t sitting right once the suspension or brakes were reassembled A single clunk could be pads moving in the brake carrier. Were the garage lazy and simply buzzed it back on? A strip down, blow out with compressed air and light smear of ceramic grease would bed everything in. The final torque on the hub bolt is with the wheel still raised, and there’s a sequence. Any other associated suspension links that were dismantled should be checked too.

Often a battery on its way out will trigger faults. Don’t put yourself in the position by trying to kick it down the line, it will let you down. If money is tight, then any AGM battery, VARTA, Yuasa, etc, same cold cranking amps as the original. In terms of coding VCDS if you know someone or OBDeleven. Fitting is straight forward. If you have scan software, then don’t bother hooking up battery trickle charge to points in engine, just take it out, importantly remembering to photograph the code and connect the vent tube. Code it in and forget out it.

Avoid going to Halfords, I mean that genuinely. For some things, especially batteries then the main dealer is more reasonable than you think. Likely an AGM battery, and it needs coded to the car. On a B8 model, I’d say it still needs coded to the car. This can be done if you know someone with VCDS.