spartacus 68

Your video doesn’t play. Invariably these clips don’t add anything to pinpoint the source issue. If you’ve had car 8 years, then you know service history. Suspect it could be a wheel bearing. You tend to hear them between 40-50mph. If you’re hearing it from 20mph it must be particularly bad. Couple of ways to pinpoint them. Car raised at front, both sides. Hold wheel at 10-to-2 position and try lateral movement. Then try at 12-to-6 position. Any movement should be obvious. That can still be difficult to confirm, so other way is to remove brake caliper and feel the hub rotation. Cars with Quattro drive are always hard to pinpoint. Luckily it’s a hub unit. Four triple-square bolts hold it on. You’ll need to remove through hub bolt too, and replace. Bad news is these bearing hubs can seize on, so air hammer is your friend for these jobs, plus flap wheel to clean any oxide corrosion. Use a smear of ceramic grease on new bolts. Parts wise, F.A.G. units every time. Pretty sure that will be OEM. Always fit in pairs.

Count yourself lucky its not the V10. The V8 is generally reliable, however you're buying a 2016-2018 supercar, so it's been around. History is everything. If there's more paperwork than a Brexit export, then you're on the right lines. If the tyres are on the legal limit and brakes need a refresh, then be aware it will be expensive and more importantly question why? Simply saying RS6 seems to add £2k to everything. I'd want the car scanned first off with VCDS to see if there's any historical DTC errors logged. This is a performance car so oil changes every 5-8k miles. In terms of issues. Air intake valves can carbon up. You could treat it to a walnut blast. It's sensor heavy, so if original battery, factor in replacement. It needs coded to car and vented. If panoramic roof, check drain holes. Run mild detergent down them (exit above hinge on front door) and behind rear wheel arch liner. VAG have specific grease for sunroof. Also clean rubber seals. Assuming LED headlights. Potentially LED matrix if later car. Then check operation. Dipping light adjustment on start up is normal, but any further sporadic movent underway points to damaged or siezed height adjustment sensors. Servicing, diffs could use gear oil change. Depends on mileage. It's a ZF 6-speed transmission, but there will be a filter kit, so unless evidence of having it done, factor in. Cooling, apparently this thing has multiple radiators, fans and oil coolers. All are prone to wear and tear. If the car was remapped, be very wary.

Audi main dealers do car health-checks as a matter of course when you're car is in. Think of it as cash extraction. Absolutely no reason to get them to touch the car. You're paying £200 an hour for a tech, not a mechanic, so seek out a VAG independent. For brakes, personally I rate Zimmermann. If there's a lip front and rear then replace discs and pads and do a brake bleed at the same time. Timing belt, I'm surprised Audi picked up on this as their service reception quote all kind of nonsense and VAG continually change interval times. Rule of thumb is usually 5 year or 60k miles on diesel cars up to 2 litres. Change the water-pump and auxilliary belts at the same time. No issue if the engine tray is scratched. If it's broken that's a different story. You can probably buy second hand part as new it will be expensive. Other than that - just service items such as diesel fuel filter every 20k miles. Rear spring mounts on Avants are known to corrode, so check out. Part is inexpensive, but you're probably looking at £300+ labour cost unless you're spanner handy.

To be honest just buy it from the main dealer. Probably less than you think and you know quality is good. You'll need tensioner pulley and water-pump too.

Single VIN is £169. If you have other Audis or VWs (works on Skoda, SEAT, Bentley and Lamborghini) then 3-VIN version is £222. You get different bundles. Get one with a plastic box, as the brains is the USB Hex-2 cable, so it keeps it safe. Order from Gendan. As mentioned - lifetime updates for the VCDS software. Occasionally the dongle hardware needs updated too. Regards the air-con flap, then scan car first to determine if it's motor or linkage. Either way you're going to be stripping down. Once you have an ID you can search YouTube to get location. Suspect it's not programming as such, but adaptation procedure once the new software is installed so everything works in sync.

VCDS will pinpoint. Generally speaking, usually glovebox out to locate motor. Anyway cross that bridge once you get it scanned.

Not much to go on. The only thing back there is the rear diff. Any signs of weeping? Any sides lower such as broken spring? Suspect limp mode is not related to clunk at the back. Ideally you need to hook up with VCDS to scan and see what error codes are logged. Limp mode is protecting engine, so could be anything, turbo actuator, blocked DPF. Any warning lights, smell or anything else that's odd to throw onto the mix?

If it’s an S7 TDI it will be an 8 speed Tiptronic box. These can easily handle the torque. I check it’s in dynamic mode, etc. ZF-8 boxes have a service kit, so I’d be inclined to do that first before you go anywhere near a remap. Audi will tell you it’s sealed for life, but do it 60-80k miles. I follow a few companies, so Decimal Tenths are Newcastle based, or Darkside Developments in Barnsley. Probably the only companies I’d entrust the work too. They are both VAG specialists. For the Tiptronic service, then Mackie Transmissions, Glasgow.

MODs can you move this to B9 forum please. Car will need scanned with VCDS to see what’s going on. Rear diff gear oil should be good for 100k miles, but no harm in changing it. Double check this part number, with Audi or a motor factor with your registration. G 052 145 S2. Should take around a litre. Sport diffs or Haldex version use a different specification. From my understanding it’s around a litre. You’ll need to check the Allen key fill and drain plugs for size. Pretty sure they are 8mm. Use new plugs (come with thread locker). Tighten to 16Nm of torque. Note they don’t sit flush with the diff. Always pull fill plug first.

It's about getting the engine to operating temperature and a decent run every so often. Short runs would be 10-15 miles. If this is for urban commuting, that's when you get into issues, start-stop, etc. At some point the EGR valve will clog - that's inevitable on diesels. In addition AdBlue is known to weak point, as it uses integral tank with pump and sender. I've started using Forte anti-crystal on every AdBlue top up. You can also use Forte fuel conditioner (for diesels) straight in the fuel tank on a quarter full and drive it like you stole it for 15-20 mins. The fuel filter needs changed, so do this every 20k miles. Helps clean injectors, etc. Also treat the car to premium diesel. Older Euro 4 diesels could be used for short run journeys, but eventually intake manifolds get carbon build up, or sticky vanes on the turbo. Euro 6 - the engine is regenerating anyway, which is where the engine heats up to effectively burn off soot via DPF. These cars tend to be sensor heavy, so irrespective of whether you're spanner handy, I'd advocate getting VCDS (via Gendan), as the car will store logged faults. Main dealer will charge you £200 minimum for scan. In fact - it's worth even checking any perspective new purchase. Logged or stored faults will remain unless cleared. Usually referred to as DTCs. If you are spanner handy - then things like retracting rear electro-mechanic handbrake, priming fuel pump and relearning motors such as panoramic sunroof are useful to have. Audi also use ODIS dealer level software. Controls programming features, security, etc. I know for example that even Golf Mk 8 - you can't service rear brakes without it. Sign of things to come I'm afraid. As chains and tensioners are at the back of the engine - then it's an engine out job to replace, along with plastic guides. Should be good for the life of the engine, but where they get camshaft sprocket wear or chain slap is on cars that were on long-service regimes (up to 18k miles) between oil changes. Look carefully at the service history and avoid anything that's not been serviced at up to 10-12k mile intervals. No oil can maintain viscosity and lubricating qualities at that sort of mileage. Audi will tell you different, but this was brought in to satisfy fleet managers trying to reduce costs. Most of these cars were 3-4 years old on finance deals, so bill is normally picked up by next unsuspecting owner down the line. Tiptronic boxes do have a ZF service kit - so if not done I would get this done at 60-80k miles for peace of mind. Front and rear diffs usually good up to 100k miles.

Q7s from this era were primarily V6 TDi engines in 218PS and 272PS variants. SQ7 used V8 diesel. Think there was also 2.0TFSI model, but relatively rare and given it's thirst to shift the best part of 2 tonnes, it wouldn't be economical. Some also use plug in battery (E-tron), potentially gives you additional 30 miles. I know that can cause a bit of grief if it goes wrong. All paired with Tiptronic 8-speed boxes. Like everything, the diesel models are all chain drive, and servicing is crucial. That means oil changes every 8-10k miles or less if previous owner was particularly fastidious. V6 engine is a solid workhorse. I've never driven one, but have the 272PS engine in my A4 Allroad and would be the one I would choose. 600Nm of torque and will return 50mpg if driven sensibly, less in a Q7 though I'd expect the Q7 to go through tyres and brakes, so factor that in. Can also pull impressive 2800kg if there's a towbar. These engines don't tend to use oil. However as it's diesel, Euro 6, then you are into AdBlue, DPF, EGR, cats, etc. Better to have a car that's done regular annual mileage. These engines don't like short runs, or you're into emission territory and potential carbon build up. Suspension - standard multi-link or adaptive air suspension from what I understand. 100k plus mileage, you're likely into replacing bushes if not already done.

If you’ve had S Tronic gearbox service (every 38k miles), and you have VCDS, then I would do gearbox adaption calibration in basic settings. Few videos as mentioned. Try than and see if any improvement.

If you’re going to the bother of doing transmission, then nothing wrong with doing front and rear diffs. They should be fine until 100k, but they only take 2-3 litres, so hardly going to break the bank. The Tiptronic box is a different story, 8 litres of special ATF.

Battery should be 12.4v minimum. If it’s original battery you’ve done well. Replacement is AGM type, and coded to the car, vented, etc.

As far as I know it's just the strainer/filter, and a new gasket for the transmission sump. This is quite a good video - regards the transmission brace especially. If it's on the ramp - then check the prop-shaft mount for any play.

Look up your own car via LLL parts, especially the stock steering wheel and take a note of the part number. Now cross reference that with other steering wheel variants of the same model up to the final build year, which I think was 2015. They should all be compatible. Auto electricians, recoding, sounds like a lot of work.

No idea on your financial set up. I’ve always bought my cars, so not constrained by PCP or hire purchase deals. I understand about the final balloon payment though. Often cars on finance tend to be 3-4 years old and have GFV (guaranteed future value). Stay within limited mileage, and hand back in good condition, etc. Just looked at the price of a new petrol A3 Sportback. You can easily pay £35k and it has halogen rear lights. It’s 2026! At the end of the day, it’s your money. Keep on top of servicing and oil changes and it should do you a good few years.

Yes, TRW for brakes, etc. Lemforder is basically what’s on the car just now, just stamped as Audi. 14 part arm suspension pack is £550 give or take, then you have labour to factor in. For arguments sake let’s say 6-8 hours. Yes car is low mileage, but suspension is rarely straight forward with bolts refusing to budge, especially the pinch bolt on the strut leg. Once all that’s done, the car needs tracking alignment. The irony is you could still do all this work and still have a creak. The suspension shock absorbers will be original, bump stops, and the top mounts. I don’t think you’re anywhere near a front end refresh yet, it’s 40k miles. I’ve done front end refreshes on a A2 and A4 diesel, both around 120k miles. It’s a labour of love and rarely goes to plan. I looked into that Chassis Ear tool, but that’s basically a workshop tool when the car is in the air. Your garage sound like they are doing the right thing, especially if not advocating ‘swap out the entire lot’ approach. Get them to look a specifically at universal joint on steering shaft (grease it), or friction at the steering column's bulkhead seal, (silicone spray).

No idea regards OBD 11. Have you tried the above? Is that simply to have them activate via light sensor on mirror? VCDS should be able to do it via central electrics module. £220 or so for 3 VIN licence from Gendan and run on old laptop. Lifetime software updates, plus access to their forum. I know some VAG cars have Scandi setting so rear lights come on with front DRLs. Do your research before you part with cash. I think the DRLs are 80% intensity from factory, so there’s probably a way to adjust brightness levels too.

Weybridge Vehicle Consultants in Surrey. Bought my current Audi from them. They ship cars all over the UK. They also do servicing on site. Can’t fault them.

You’re running a 3.0TDI V6 up front, so you’re dealing with a heavy engine. It’s not just age, it’s how the car is driven and the reality of British roads. We’re not suggesting to completely refresh the suspension, but unfortunately this is the reality with multi link suspension. If you were renewing lower front arms, do both, front and rear arms. As suggested, these are usually hydrabushes, difficult to tell if they’ve failed unless you see a leak, or get in with a pry bar. I’ve read snake oil remedies about silicone sprays on bushes to remove squeaks. That will be short lived and probably age the bush given it’s petroleum based. The only grease you can use with rubber is red grease. Similar to brake rebuilds. You could try on some of the ARB bushes as it’s a relatively cheap fix, but does mean a little bit of work if your spanner handy.

Thought you might need VCDS to get into the system settings. I had a B8 Allroad and it had DRL fronts that were on all the time, but I wanted the LED rears on too from the start. You can also do things like rev counter needle sweep on start up, passenger mirror dip on reverse, etc. Quick Google search suggests otherwise. To enable or turn on your Daytime Running Lights (DRLs) on a 2015 Audi A5, you can toggle them on using MMI infotainment. Step 1: Turn on the ignition or start your engine. Step 2: Press the CAR button on your MMI control console. Step 3: Select Car systems (if applicable) and navigate to Exterior Lighting or Headlights. Step 4: Look for the Daytime Running Lights option and toggle it ON. Once this is enabled, your DRLs will automatically switch on whenever the engine is running and the main headlight switch is in the Auto or 0 position. Hope that works.

Was going to suggest Alex Alexandrou (DJAlix), he’s site sponsor on Audi-Sport and very experienced. Based in London, but also has retrofit service in Leicester. I had rear camera install by Adam (AV Adaptions) in Aberdeen last year. He’s a coding partner with Alex. I’m normally spanner handy and have VCDS, but these jobs are best left to the pros. Adam is ex Audi too. I’m sure you’ll find someone local.

Leave well alone. My wife had one. Great cars, ahead if their time. They are a potential classics down the line. They made a 1.2TDI version, very rare, plus Storm editions in Papya Orange for example. Nothing to be gained from extra 25hp. It was a fast little car on account of the aluminium frame, but the brakes were pretty standard. Save your money. Sourcing parts is becoming the issue as it is.

On multi-link suspension, start with the cheap stuff first and then progress. The lower arms are likely hydrabushes, so they leak when they fail. I changed mine at 65k on a 17 plate A4 Allroad. Lemforder is OE specification. Also check the ARB bushes on the sway bar. Next the ARB link, then finally the top arms. Top arms when they go, will knock. They are usually visible if you hold and 10-2 position and try lateral movement. The only thing left is the top mounts and the bump stops on the suspension shock. If you're changing anything, then always do both sides. Lemforder and Meyle HD, that's all I'd fit. Given the state of our roads - also look at the coil springs too. you can drop an inch and not even know about it. Not sure with A5, but on A4 Avant, the rear spring seat/bush corrodes from inside out, so although cheap from Audi, you're looking at labour to fit unless you're spanner handy. I did it myself so as not to disturb eccentric bolt. If I was doing it again, I would just mark then remove that bolt. This is complicated further if its quattro drive. Car will need alignment check afterwards.