spartacus 68

Audi will charge you north of £180 a hour. Suspension, you’re probably talking minimum of 6 hours. Which bushes are you talking about? I’d be wary of sticking on things like Powerflex or similar and change the ride completely. Assuming it’s lower arms or even upper arms, then Meyle HD or Lemforder. Parts will be expensive, but it is what it is. After work is done you’ll need a tracking alignment check. See parts diagrams on LLL Parts here (double check against engine code): https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/AQ7/859/4/407/407000 Most independent garages won’t fit if you buy parts, but will order on your behalf. Can’t help on garage on North West. I follow Decimal Tenths (North East), and seem dedicated.

There's no point posting these types of videos as the background noise makes it difficult to isolate anything untoward. If it's a rattle, then nine times out ten it's a heat shield under the car. The fasteners corrode and the heat shield rattles. Also check brake dust shields, but this would be unusual on a 2019 B9. Lastly check the main exhaust straight pipe where it joins after the catalytic convertor. The exhaust clamps eventually corrode. Mikalor stainless clamps are the best you can fit. If you can trace and localise the sound, that's different, as you will be able to get a more detailed video.

Difficult to tell, ideally you want some sort of engine clean to determine what's going on. Oil sweat just now could be related to earlier issue with EGR or oil cooler that was subsequently fixed. Any mention of this in the history? Find someone with VCDS to run a scan. Which 3.0 litre model TDI, the 218bhp (S tronic box) or 272bhp (Tiptronic)? If S tronic, then the gearbox oil is due every 38k miles. Tiptronic although Audi will say is sealed for life, can be serviced at 60-80k miles as ZF have a maintenance kit. If you do buy it, get the engine degreased, steam cleaned and check again. That oil sweat shouldn't continue. For longevity on these engines, get into habit of changing oil every 5k miles. If engine tray is dry - I wouldn't worry unnecessarily, but it would be better if the engine and sump were bone dry. If dealer (probably not Audi on a 2017 model), then see where you stand in terms of supported warranty. Norway will have their own rules to protect consumers. In UK you have up to 30 days.

Did the electrical clear all the errors, or is that VCDS list after it's been cleared? That's a huge list of electrical faults. I see there's errors for the radio and sound system. Any recent work?

Get the car scanned with VCDS. There will be hydraulic pump or electric motors for the roof potentially failing depending on model year. Should show up with a scan. Tends to be more of a specialist job. See who’s local to you and go on positive reviews. Goes without saying, don’t go near the main dealer unless this is within a warranty period.

Warped brake discs are a bit of an anomaly. That’s not to say it can’t happen. In my experience, it’s sometimes not the brakes at all, but potentially worn wheel bearing, suspension component such as deteriorating suspension bush or a sticky brake piston. Older cars, then you get into top mounts, etc. You can also get brake pad transfer. The brake discs may have heat spots or dark areas on an otherwise clean brake disc. That’s a sure sign of excessive heat, possibly the brake caliper sticking. Sometimes seized brake sliders, or corrosion on the dust sleeve on the caliper itself. One way to rule out sticky piston(s), is to run car then coast to a stop. Brake discs may be warm, but defiantly not hot. Check for lip on brake disc, scoring on the brake disc or different disc material widths remaining, easy to spot on ventilated brake discs.

Car is coming up for 14 years old, so financially it’s probably worth more to you than it’s actually worth. If you traded in, it’s not likely to be a retail car, and would probably go to auction. The advisories are related to multi link suspension arm or bushes. If you’re replacing one on one side side, then it makes sense to do the other side too. This includes front and rear arms. Audi use Lemforder or Meyle HD, anything else will wear prematurely in my opinion. Decent arms can be anywhere from £50-£150 each plus fitting. In addition you’ll need a tracking check, say £80-£100. Audi are known for subframe issues. The subframe is powder coated, so road dirt, salt and water start to corrode on damaged surfaces. You can’t fully sort it unless you remove the subframe and get it powder coated, that’s unrealistic. What you can do, is get the underside of the car jet washed, and dried, wire brush bad areas, potentially apply rust converter then apply wax-oil or Lanoguard. That should keep corrosion at bay for another 2-3 years before you need to reapply. Expect to pay £300-400.

Must be a single turbo, I think the BiTDI was 2011 on on C7. On glow plug IMRC error, do your system checks before tackling the glow plugs. They are notorious to break if you go in with power tools. Get up to operating temperature before attempting, use spray PlusGas on it 2-3 days before extraction, and use a 3/8” ratchet on it, so at least you’re feeling if it’s seized. The rattle could be heat or dust shields. The brake dust shields rot around the Torx screws and any heat shields fasteners are prone to same thing. Enjoy your project.

Solid cars, but at 200k miles, then it’s just run in! Is it bi-turbo or single turbo? If you’re renovating Land Cruisers, then suspension will be a piece of cake on this. Although airbags, there will be some multi-arms in there to check, especially bushes, ARB, etc. My suggestion is to get VCDS if this is going to be long term ownership. Very useful bit of kit.

True Stevie, but if you start listing every potential diesel issue you’d never buy one. This will be my last diesel. Have come from Audi 80 1.9 TDI, wife had A2 1.4 TDI, then A4 2.5 TDI Quattro, then Allroad 2.0TDI and my current Allroad 3.0 TDI. Throw in a couple of daily drivers including a Skoda Fabia 1.4 TDI and Polo 1.4 TDI. What are the advantages? Better fuel economy, low end torque, engine longevity? All my previous Audis were at 150k plus, except my B8 Allroad which was just 65k miles and treated like a princess. My daily commute before Covid was 50 miles. Euro 6 technology pushed diesel technology to the limits. Yes you can have lower emissions, but VAG engineers left potential ticking time bomb with EGR valves and AdBlue tanks. What’s the option? Petrol? Forums are littered with excessive oil consumption threads or disintegrating rocker arm needle bearings. Electric, well funny you should mention that, wife now has BMW i3 REx, so hybrid. Cracking little car, but it has its quirks. You have a couple of options and this has stood me well. Service it within an inch of its life. On 2.0TDI, then 8-10k oil changes miles. Fuel filter ever 20k miles. Run a can of Forte diesel conditioner through it under 1/4 tank and drive it like you stole it. Always get to temperature and use on journeys of up to 1 hour minimum 2-3 days a week. Use premium diesel every few tanks. If you’re spanner handy, get VCDS. I changed my attitude about mechanics when I was a nipper (circa late 90s) and discovered a ratchet still attached to the underside of my mum’s Vauxhall Astra 1.8 CD (incidentally not a diesel). Returned it to the service desk with a curt “I believe this is yours!”

Must be one of the last B8.5 models on 2015 plate if Euro 6. What is it, 2.0TDI or 3.0? This is actually straight forward. You have 30 days for a used car under statutory legislation (2015 consumer rights). Refuse it. The fact the trader deleted AdBlue tells you all you need to know, that’s a potential MOT fail if discovered. Depending what the issue was in the first place, injector, tank, etc. The difficulty you have is you put a map on it. So two choices, remove the map and return it to standard to the dealer and demand full refund or live with it. I personally wouldn’t have mapped it with an outstanding AdBlue issue, as I’d then want to know what’s going on with EGR, DPF, cat, etc. Are the 50k miles legitimate? Does the history substantiate this? Might be worth running a CarVertical check it? Knowledge is king in these circumstances.

Just looked on Autotrader so £14k gets you a manual (66 plate) 2017, S Line Avant with around 65-80k miles. That’s the 2.0 TDI (190PS), £35 road tax, etc. That’s without Quattro. Nothing wrong with manual 6-speed, but you’re reducing the potential number of cars with any searches. Again, absolutely nothing wrong with S Tronic box as long as it’s been serviced. So every 38k miles. With 2.0TDI, whether low mileage or average miles say up to 80k, then timing belt and water pump need to have been done. Factor this in would be my advice, and replace every 5 years. If you do same search with S Tronic Quattro you can get 17 plate with around 60-70k miles for around £16k. Road tax now £190.

So basically fit a new oil cooler? Audi we’re going to charge you £20k+ for a new engine! Might be worth fitting upgraded oil cooler and investigation additional heat shields around the turbo.

Good job. 3M manufacture a wrap called 2080 BR120 brushed aluminum. That’s about as close as I’ve seen or OE look.

This is on 2013 model, but assume procedure will be the same for 2009 model. Tools wise, socket set, extension bar for 3/8” ratchet for 8/10mm nuts or long handled Torx driver in glove box, special tools to remove media centre if there’s one in the glove box, new G12+ coolant, anti-marring trim tools for centre console. If it were me, I’d remove both front seats for better access. There will be cables underneath for airbags to remove. VCDS to clear any error codes. Quite a good video. Sounds like Danny Dyer working out of Mitchell’s Garage!

Not aware of a flush as such. The injector before the catalytic converter is prone to crystallisation. It can be cleaned with warm water and a little vinegar and a little nylon brush. There are a number of additives on the market, but your guess is as good as mine regards their claim to reduce crystallisation. VAG AdBlue is part number G052910M4.The Issue is more complex, in the respect of what VAG engineers were trying to achieve by reducing Euro 6 diesel emissions with DPF, EGR and AdBlue in conjunction with a catalytic converter. To be honest Euro 5 technology was fine and dandy, but with low emission zones in cities, then you risk a congestion charge if you enter, which is entirely possible if you don’t know the city, or hit roadworks that could detour you. Driving style is important too. Diesels like to get up to temperature, so start stop short trips will likely cause issues down the line. Just my tuppence worth.

Pretty much all Audi’s range whether SUV or Quattro are effectively soft-roaders. The plastic panels under the car extend from the engine under tray to the rear diff. The only thing holding these plastic panels on are 10mm nylon nuts or Torx screws. When you’re negotiating flood water (which is not advisable at the best of times), then water will enter the underside of the car including the plastic panels. You only need a couple of missing fasteners and the force of the water will rip it off.

Usually 32mm and only 25Nm to torque (with a smear of fresh oil on the new ‘o’ ring). Details of the torque value will be on the filter housing.

Personally I’d avoid using the main dealer, but you’re over a barrel here. Their labour rates are exorbitantly high, plus you’re now dealing with non experienced technicians that follow a prescribed digital process from Germany. BMW went down the same route years ago. As the customer you fund the process with new parts until they eventually resolve the issue. AdBlue is likely to be the integral tank, heater, sensor and pump. It’s a sealed unit and the electronic sensor is part of it. There’s also a AdBlue injector near the exhaust catalytic converter that could be crystallised. Personally I’d be looking at that first and follow process of elimination. VCDS may give you specific error codes to search against. My understanding is tank is updates on the car’s ECU using ODIS dealer level software. As it’s Euro 6 diesel, what else can you do? Some folk might say just delete it, including EGR and DPF. First off that’s an MOT fail if identified, plus the AdBlue is reducing emissions.

You’re asking a generic question. There are multiple engine variants on 1.4TFSI platform. If your mates are doing it, get OE, it’s probably less than you think. Failing that a recognised and respected timing belt manufacturer, such as Gates, Continental, etc. This is a critical component, don’t cut corners due to cost.

Yours will be 2.0 litre 252bhp version if Quattro. Its a chain. Technically speaking there’s three. If it’s been on long service intervals, get off of that and into oil changes every 8-10k miles.

Speak to Tomas at VAG Technic. Oxfordshire to Dudley is about 1hr 30mins away. They drop performance engines all the time and know their way around S4. I’m sure there’s logical explanation.

Search out ErWin, you can source specific model and buy access to see procedure involved. Suspect it’s going to be very difficult to do unless you have access to a ramp.

No S Tronic is dual clutch, 7 speed used on 3.0TDI 218hp model. Tiptronic is single clutch with torque convertor and 8 speed. Both need serviced. S Tronic every 38k miles. Tiptronic then Audi will say sealed for life. I don't buy that as there's a ZF8 maintenance kit specifically for it, so I did it earlier this year when it turned 60k miles. Absolutely critical these boxes are maintained as auto gearbox replacement is ridiculously expensive. On quattro, the rear diff gear oil should be changed too anywhere from 60-80k miles.

As suggested, check with Audi, otherwise walk away. A new clutch, flywheel and tyres wouldn’t be enough. These cars are now over 20 years old and could have had numerous owners. Plenty examples out there with history. These are potential future classics, but don’t expect big money. 2002 cars are anywhere from £2,500 to over £10k if mint and low mileage. Roadster versions are nice. Soft tops need to be thoroughly inspected and any musty smell give it a wide berth.