spartacus 68

Audi are tight when it comes to extras. They cut back on headlamp washers, door open warning lights, and rear parking cameras, bear in mind this is for a £40k+ car. They have gone down the bundled option route for a few years, with sound pack, vision pack, tech pack. You can also re-mortgage your house for 'all extras fitted' for a Vorsprung edition in the future. For £146 - your rear seat passengers can have a holder for their hot chocolates and sprinkles. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/176468204425?chn=ps&_ul=GB&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=176468204425&targetid=2361400006200&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9180599&poi=&campaignid=21697363421&mkgroupid=170400390467&rlsatarget=pla-2361400006200&abcId=10027088&merchantid=5432646701&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA-ty8BhA_EiwAkyoa3yBQTWPIdESFzSne-V0RrcR_znmYRdo2JGde4vsxVMhzIdmauLno8BoCqacQAvD_BwE

If you scan the car with VCDS it will identify if an actuator flap is faulty. Sometimes it’s mechanical, as in the nylon teeth on the actuator flap that the little electric motor drives is broken, or the motor itself is damaged. Of course it’s usually buried deep in the dash. VCDS will identify module, and from there you can search YouTube for disassembly. Usually involves removing glovebox, trim and contorting yourself in an awkward position to access.

Pretty sure part is 8W0857240 which is wing mirror frame. Double check yourself on LLL parts. There may be variations for auto-fold, but I doubt it. Part is £50. https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/20034916663

Anything can be retrofitted, it depends how deep your pockets are. My understanding is that it uses the same wiring, however genuine matrix headlight units could be at least £2k each. You can get second hand, but then you’re dealing with breaker yards, and condition is everything, and they are around £900 each. They are linked to the light self levelling depending on load, which should already be in place with the existing LED headlights. Sensors are usually on front passenger and rear passenger side suspension. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/ Add in, there’s an integral camera as part of the rear view mirror, plus coding. I think this is more than VCDS can handle, and likely you’d need access to ODIS dealer level software and datasets for the lights. Probably more a specialist job for an experienced retrofitter. That’s a very expensive upgrade. I read something similar for someone who didn’t like the standard sound in their B9 A4, and wanted Bang and Olufson system. Parts list was huge, plus they ended up practically dismantling the car to fit it. Granted this upgrade would be easier, but the cost will likely be prohibitive. My old B8 A4 Allroad had bi-xenon headlights. Fantastic lights, and better than my B9 Allroad with LED headlights in certain situations. Audi started cutting back on extras such as headlamp washers, and even door open warning lamps, again, both can be retrofitted. I don’t know enough about LED, but maybe with you can get upgraded LED bulbs? That would be worth investigating.

I've got a Draper bleeder, but to be honest a two person approach (one pressing the brake) is better than vacuum system. Get plenty DOT 4 brake fluid, it's relatively inexpensive. Also make sure the silicone tube that you use from the bleed nipple to the used fluid reservoir is on tight. Top up the brake fluid reservoir regularly so as not to draw in more air. Use a proper brake nipple spanner, so there's no mucking about when closing off. You're right - start at the caliper furthest from brake fluid reservoir. Regardless if you're not seeing bubbles, press brakes around 15-20 times, then close off, move to next wheel and repeat. Double check brake hoses too. It they have been clamped for any reason they may have collapsed or deteriorated. Running the car will pressurise the system - so I would use that approach too.

Add my tuppence worth in. If diesel and this has been mentioned, then water-pump, cambelt should have been done. Generally speaking, apply 5 years or 60k miles on 4-cylinder engines. Most engines are interference and if it snaps, then it's expensive to repair. This could be a potential deal-breaker if you find the right car. Audi might even quote a recommended mileage level in the future, but by that point the car is out of warranty. VAG are constantly revising their belt intervals - so best to enquire. Quick scan on Audi Approved Used website, shows just 1 vehicle and it's a less than desirable saloon 1.6TDi in black at £10,700 with 84k miles. The 1.6TDi is a bit agricultural and old technology now. Approved Audi does have some benefits and you have peace of mind during the warranty period, which is usually 1 year, but sometimes if buying with their finance they'll make it 2 years and add in free servicing. In addition you can extend warranty buy buying an additional year. If you can increase your budget just marginally then £13k gets you a 1.5 TFSi Sportback in white on an 18 plate with 41k miles and finished in white. The 1.5TSi engine was introduced in 2016 and I think the belt is replaced on mileage of 180k miles or 15 years. Also no pulleys to line up the crank, so it's a sophisticated dealer-only tool the main dealer will use wired to a laptop. Here's how I approach buying cars if it's any help. Model, colour, specification, mileage, budget and of course history. Specification is important. As if it doesn't have it, then it's expensive to retro-fit. So if LED headlights are non negotiable over standard halogen, or heated seats, or an auto-box, or reversing camera, then add into your search. Poverty-spec cars will lose their appeal quite quickly. Mileage wise I'd be looking at around 50k miles, given we had lock-down during covid. Good luck with your search. Watch third-party warranties from independent dealers. They are so heavily loaded toward the dealer, such as service car every 6 months or 6,000 miles, and difficult to claim against.

Genuine Audi Q8 suspension airbag unit will be over £1k for fronts. Doubt it's the compressor as it's going back to normal ride height on start-up, and likely to be the air suspension unit or the fixing point where the tube enters the unit via a union. These units, although I'm no expert wouldn't need to be fitted as pairs as per normal coil-spring set-up. Possible to find used parts but on a 2020 vehicle but personally I'd opt for new given you have labour to fit. There are after-market parts from reputable makers who probably make them for Audi anyway, but it's all about compatibility. Suspect there's some sort of configuration once a new part is fitted - again access to VCDS to scan will reveal. You should be able to find part number here: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/

No disrespect to Lidl and your new OBD reader, but you get what you pay for. You’ve bought an A6 Allroad which retailed new in 2015 from around £45k. Technically it boasts air suspension, bi-xenon headlights and a whole multitude of onboard diagnostics as standard, who am I to argue if you bought tea lights, XL jogger bottoms and the OBD reader all from the middle aisle! 😜 Appreciate you’re not spanner handy, but VAGcom or VCDS from Ross Tech is dealer standard software. Things have moved on. Dealers now use things like ODIS. Part of this is to remove DIY ability to access car data, and allows for engine management tuning, programming and so forth. In addition it stops the proliferation of stolen or broken parts being circulated as they are security protected and ODIS allows for parts to be read and enabled. Back to VCDS, cheapest you can buy is 3 VIN enthusiast package, roughly £225 plus a laptop to run it on. You get genuine OBN reader cable and unlimited updates from RossTech. You can configure this for three cars. You can use it across Audi, VW, Skoda, etc. even the OBD device will receive hardware updates. What can you do with it? Scan the car. At Audi they will charge you at least £120 for the same service. This scans all the modules on the car, brakes, air conditioning, air bags, electrics, engine, etc. It reveals faults, the time it was first registered and even the number of occasions if it’s logged multiple times. I personally think it’s money well spent. I’m spanner handy so things like priming the fuel pump, releasing the rear electro-mechanical handbrake for changing pads and discs, re-learning sunroof or tailgate module if there’s been any work done. Coding battery, enabling revised functions, clearing TDC error codes or management lights, etc. Fault finding its critical, otherwise you can throw parts at a car and find it’s not resolved. After a service you can reset oil service, etc. If you rely on third parties, whether main dealer or Indy, then of course they will do this after a service, but diagnostics are an integral part of servicing now. Thought I’d throw it into the mix as it seems the A6 Allroad should be around for a few years.

If the chrome has deteriorated they might not be worth saving, but you need to wash them first with mild detergent to see what you're dealing with. I see tar spots flung up from the rear wheels, so you can dissolve with a damp microfibre cloth and a dab of petrol. Wear nitrile gloves. in terms of bringing back the polish look, then Autosol paste applied with damp microfibre then buffed off gives good results.

Ideally you need to get the car scanned with VCDS. There might be other codes logged that can help pinpoint what’s going on. My experience of turbos, 2012 A4 Allroad with under 70k miles went into limp mode. Ordinarily I would have stripped it down myself, but pointless cleaning, given labour to get to it. The exhaust manifold nuts can be a sod without induction heater. In addition the oil feed pipe to it needs to be replaced as the union nut rarely goes back on properly, and this is usually down the back of the engine. Bypass this and you risk an oil leak. There’s also an actuator on there. This is normally set up with the turbo on the bench. It can be tested with a vacuum. Any cleaners likely to be short lived. When I stripped the turbo down on mine it had carbon build up. Also one of the vanes on the turbine was bent. Normal to do oil and filter change as a matter of course when fitting. Check out Turbo-diesel.co.uk. They will have Garrett turbos, BorgWarner, new in a box, or you could opt for refurbished. Main dealer will use exactly the same part but boxed Audi and daft price. You’ll also need exhaust gasket kit.

It is cam chain. No reason to replace unless you have rattle at start up. Regular oil and filter changes will help keep the engine in good condition, ideally around 8k miles. Ignore long life service regimes, that’s what kills engines. If for arguments sake it needed replacement chains, guides, sprockets and tensioners, it’s an engine out job. Check out VAG Technic on YouTube. On performance Audi RS and S models, they are constantly stripping them down due to premature fault with rocker arms and needle bearings. In terms of maintenance then pretty sure this is 218 is S Tronic 7-speed box. Needs gear oil and filter change every 40k miles. Fuel filter every 20k miles. Once you get to 100k miles, treat rear diff to a fluid change. Worth investing in VCDS even if you’re not spanner handy, as will pinpoint fault codes, and useful for things like coding battery, etc. Gave up on main dealers years ago due to ludicrous costs. Find a trusted garage that knows these cars inside out. It’s got air suspension which is pretty robust.

Read this on a Porsche forum, but if it’s good enough for them, and they are bleed’n particular, then it will work. It’s all in the preparation, and you’ll need a garage, and car out of action for at least 3 days. And the roof has to dry twice, not easy given current temperatures, so mobile heater would help. Wash the roof with ph neutral shampoo, nothing with wax or shine additives. Use soft nylon bristle brush and work into the cabriolet roof to remove stains and algae/mould, and rinse thoroughly with jet wash. Let it dry. Use G-Technic Tri-clean spray and remove all contaminants with fresh microfibre cloths. Apparently it can be diluted with distilled water. Let it dry again. They recommend at least a couple of days. Vacuum the roof, yes you read that right. Any lint on the roof needs to be removed. Use vacuum hose and soft brush attachment. At this point your neighbours will be talking! You might want to mask the car’s bodywork for the treatment. Use G-Technic I1 Smart Fabric AB V3 and work into the roof. Use gloves and remove over-spray on body work or glass, hence masking. Leave for further 24 hours. Products aren’t particularly cheap, but neither is a new roof. Most of it is preparation, but it’s V3 is hydrophobic once applied and should protect it. Rear glass can be treated with glass polish, etc.

Could be anything, coil pack, battery, etc. Get the car connected to VCDS. If the dash lights up like a Christmas tree then the faults will be logged, otherwise you’re just guessing. What’s the service history?

Can understand that. I was doing a brake strip down on my 7 year old B9 A4 with 60k miles in the summer and carrier bolts were seized solid. Tried an air gun and spanner and jack approach, but no success. Because of their location it’s difficult to get a breaker bar on them, unless the car is lifted. In the end, bought new bolts from Audi and got local garage to remove the old ones. Fitted new bolts with a smear of anti seize ceramic paste.

A scan with VCDS will reveal what it is. Could just be a wheel speed sensor - this tends to throw up various errors.

If budget allows, then I’d opt for another set of Audi alloys with summer tyres for spring. It’s all down to your budget and space for storage. Dedicated winter tyres are fantastic, and transform car’s handling, irrespective of whether you have four wheel drive. They perform best in lower temperatures, except ice. On winter tyres you can usually drop a wheel size. Check with your insurance on what they will accept. Audi main dealer may have offers on, but are usually ridiculously expensive. Similarly, summer tyres will have better grip and potentially water dispersal properties. Something like Michelin CrossClimate+ is a good compromise. Low road noise, hard wearing, but ultimately three quarters as good if compared to dedicated winter tyres. I’ve had them them before on an A4 Allroad and rated them. Used to run Khumo WinterCraft WP51 tyres on my daily driver front wheel drive hatchback, and they were pretty unstoppable. It depends where you live, what your winters are like and your dependency on the car. In parts of Europe they are compulsory, but in the UK, it’s still a bit of a hit and miss. Right now I’ve got 3-4” of snow with more to come this week. Allroad has Nexen summer tyres and pretty useless even with four wheel drive. Cash flow is stopping me just now, plus I’m looking for particular alloys. Personally I’d avoid steel wheels with winter tyres. They rust within 2 years. In addition, diamond cut alloys will have lacquer peel if used with winter tyres and white worm corrosion. Powder coated alloys treated with carnuba wax or ceramic coated are about as resilient as you can realistically expect.

Reductant injector. God I hate auto-correct and the march of AI. 😄

5 years is kind of average for a battery. That said cars now are very susceptible to weak or worn batteries and your dash will light up like a Christmas tree. Especially with start/stop, air conditioning, heated seats, etc. Better to replace than risk being stranded. Cold weather adds another factor so cold cranking amps are reduced and you’ll find the car may not have the power to start it. You can check with a multimeter at cold before a run. I’d expect 12.6v or so. At running, this can go up to 14.7v, but that’s important because it shows how it’s handling load. Most modern batteries are AGM, so I assume that’s what has been fitted as it handles start stop.

Not all Audi franchises are complete bar stewards. There are advantages with an Approved Used Warranty. It’s normally 1 year, but if bought with their finance, then up to 2 years. However that changes all the time and depends how aggressively they want to sell cars and the market at the time. Audi long service regime is a complete gimmick. Any oil viscosity will diminish and to expect a car to cover 18k miles or 2 years is overly optimistic. That suits Audi, as a lot of cars when purchased from new were on PCP deals or similar and then the cars were returned for GFV (guaranteed future value) often based on limiting mileage after 3 years and overall condition or face penalty. This keeps their servicing costs down (as often servicing is part of the finance deal), but engine wear and issues don’t materialise until it’s left Audi and it’s with new owners, often a few years down the line. The only reason I can see Audi are interested in this car is its abnormally low mileage. Normally they’d retail cars up to 5 years old. Personally you’re better with an average mileage car. In terms of history, yes it can be electronic, but any dealer worth their salt will divulge history, if not walk away. I’d be cautious buying a car privately, especially at this kind of money, but depends on your attitude to risk. Even with checks like Car Vertical, then things go wrong as soon as you drive away, weak batteries, demising mirrors (especially auto-dim) ones which are expensive, clutches, etc. For non Audi franchises, triple check warranty. They are normally standard 3 month warranties that you in effect extend financially if you want longer period, but are so loaded in the dealer’s favour, such as oil change service every 6k miles or 6 months and stamped via VAT garage. You can’t do you’re own servicing until out of warranty. Even if you claim it can be a minefield.

The AdBlue injector attaches to the DPF (diesel particulate filter). On a 3 litre bi-turbo then I’ll bet it’s buried down the back of the engine and you’ll need a child’s hand to access! https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A6AR/738/2/201/201034 Part 13, is the reluctant injector, has inlet AdBlue, electrical connection, and what I assume are two vacuum/return hose points. Double check with Audi parts for part number which I think is 4G0131113E (been revised a few times). Few videos on YouTube for cleaning injector with Wynns, plus clean aperture into DPF, importantly not dropping crystallised AdBlue in. Good luck and let us know how you get on.

Acel they are bungs for the tailgate only. The bump stops are on the rear quarter near the lights.

Think it’s called a boot lid buffer, part 8P4827239B. Just checked my car and they are not on the tailgate itself, but on the rear quarter visible with the tailgate raised. Never adjusted them before, as it’s an auto boot, but when it closes you can see the tailgate is drawn down to lock. They are held in place with Torx bolts. There maybe some adjustment, but suspect it’s the rubberised part that can be screwed in or out for height adjustment.

Read a few threads on this. First off - can you confirm rear wash wipe still works? The motors are made by Valeo and the copper pipe eventually breaks, sending electrics haywire, goosing the motor and water into the tailgate. If that's fine - look at the rubber bump-stops. These can be adjusted so the tailgate sits a little tighter on the rubber seal. You may need to strip the tailgate trim off and get someone to spray the car with water and watch for entry point.

This was mine Peter - 2001 2.5 TDI (V6) Quattro Sport. Old technology now, but a good car.

As mentioned, history is key, but turbos can fail regardless. Failed on my 2012 A4 Allroad under 70k miles. That car was well-cared for, with oil and filter changes every 8-10k miles. The actuator potentially failed can be tested with vacuum), it can be purchased separately, but in order to set up with the turbo it needs to be balanced on a bench with specialist tools. Easier just to replace the turbo and actuator as one unit. On the 2.0TDI (177PS) which is Garrett unit, then you can buy new rather than reconditioned unit from turbo-diesel.co.uk You can pick up turbo for around £600. Audi will charge you double that just for the same part plus labour. I stripped the turbo down and there was carbon build-up, and one of the vanes on the turbine was damaged so I opted to swap it out. Importantly the oil feed line needs to be renewed too. If not you run the risk of a leak. You need to factor in an oil and filter change as a matter of course. There are plenty diesel B8 Avants on the market. My suggestion, narrow your list down on extras as it’s expensive to retro-fit, colour of course, and mileage. Last B8.5 would have been around 2015, so set your budget accordingly.