😁 This is getting quite amusing. (My repeat reply btw is a mistake due to a clumsy thumb.) Anyway I think an independent adjudicator would agree that although my reply may not be absolutely without criticism, I did clearly say I was using an ammeter. It was a multimeter as an ammeter. Connected through the battery earth to the body of car. And yes it did go down to actually below 0.1 amps after 10mins. Locked the car with multimeter connected as above and screen clearly showing in the boot. Did it more than once to check. Plus I did say my battery was good. Charged it up independent of the car and holds its charge above 12v if not connected back to the car. Plus I used a good battery from another car, which also drained to below 11.6 volts after 2-3 days or so. Plus my alternator charges 13.8 volts at the alternator and on the battery terminals when car is running.
JTLYK ( just tae let ye ken) I do all my mechanical work, bodywork and electrical work on my own cars and my car never sees a garage apart from Mot time. Have done for 40 years.
If I can’t resolve this one- which I’m not over anxious about tbh - I may call in an auto electrician with some more sophisticated gear, or who may have experience of likely causes and that will be a first for me - paying someone else to fix a problem on one of my cars. I’ve read everything I could get find on every forum and nothing definitive or obvious causing the problem- plus as I said the ammeter shoes there shouldn’t be a problem. Something is switching back on I think and drawing current. I’d need more sophisticated gear perhaps connected with a Bluetooth connection to my phone with software recording draw over 12 hours or so- something like that anyway.