EmilyBrown1995

I have to say it is all really weird still! As like I said my car has never not started, I've had no warning lights - I'll put it down to a dud battery for now, despite the voltage readings being fine for it, it must have been causing issues somehow.

Hi Cliff, Sort of! I took the car to Kwikfit for a second opinion, when they tested the battery, alternator and starter, their readings for each all came back fine - I explained the symptoms and they looked at it for almost an hour for free (I think he was genuinely stumped and wanted to solve the issue for me) they plugged their scanner in and codes returned included 'Instrument cluster fault' 'Key programming failure' and an issue with voltage to the ECM relay (I asked if he could print the findings off, but he said he wasn't allowed, I noted it down to the best of my ability whilst he was chatting away at me) he said to start with replacing the battery, which I have now done and fingers crossed, no returning issues so far. He did recommend taking it to a VAG specialist garage down here in Cornwall, their diagnostic machine would be able to point to the exact fault and narrow it down that way, but for now I will see how it goes. Thanks!

Hi Gareth, I will be getting the battery changed and understood on the coding front, Steve - is it easy to code it yourself? I guess Google/YouTube is my friend for that. Can an alternator be 'revived' in that sense by replacing with a good and compatible battery? Or am I looking at a new alternator, too. Emily

Hi Cliff, I do understand that and I will be changing the battery and understood on the coding front, Steve - is this a simple process? I guess Google is my friend. I’m just wanting advice really, hence using the forum - is it correct to assume changing the battery may fix the issue with low voltage within the alternator and thus the rest? Can a alternator be ‘revived’ as such? I guess I’ll just wait and see and report back 😞

Gareth, Funnily enough, after reading your comment and checking the paperwork for the car that precedes my ownership (see attached- I got the date wrong that the battery was replaced, it was 2021, not 2018 as I originally stated) and googling the battery that was purchased and checking against my reg, all sites say that the battery is indeed not correct or compatible for my car, which brings me to question how it has and continues to run, fine? No idea on the coding front as was done by previous owner, I had no idea you even had to ‘code’ batteries? I thought that was only the case for start/stop batteries? Em

Thanks - I just called an Audi specialist garage down here in Cornwall, they advised to call Actronics (who they send their clusters off to) they said that an alternator can in fact cause issues with the cluster and to go down that route first!

Hi all, I'm wondering if anyone could assist with my confusion - Like I said in previous reply, Halfords tested battery, all fine - alternator returning very low, 'insufficient' voltage readings - the guy at Halfords stated that the alternator provides power to the electrics, which will be why my cluster is acting up... Now, I have just got off the phone with ECUTesting, who have said that a faulty alternator cannot cause issues with the cluster, but a faulty cluster can effect the alternator...? Two different sets of information and I am now left confused on what information to believe and whether I should replace the alternator or cluster first - ahhhhh. Em

Back from check battery apparently fine - alternator not so much, low and inconsistent reading, apparently - might explain why the car is starting but the electrics (the dash cluster) is intermittent? Em

Yep - it's booked in for a health check this morning! Will be replacing with a decent Bosch battery.

Hi all - After charging battery for 5 hours, no change to dash or amps - this morning turned the car on and the dash cluster is back on, albeit the time is wrong - ahhhhhhh. Em

Thanks Cliff - appreciate that! I can see that the battery was replaced in 2018, but it's an aftermarket 'Lion' battery, which I've heard mixed reviews about! Will report back later when I pick it up after it's been charged - would you advise replacing battery first? 🙂 Em

Hi all, Last week my key stopped working - I got a replacement battery for it, however couldn't get it reprogrammed to the car - on Saturday, my partner took my spare key with a new battery in it and eventually got it programmed to the car. Left it parked up on Sunday (we experienced very heavy rain down in Cornwall) then this morning I started my car and neither my fuel gauge, temperature gauge, speedometer or digital screen are working - see attached files - all the normal warning flights flash up and come off as normal, my car starts and drives fine, the indicator and seat belt warning lights show as normal, however neither of this make any sound!? Radio is working however the time is now wrong on it...? Plugged it into my scanner, no codes returned, checked the fuse box and the fuse for what is apparently for the instrument cluster seems fine? Ran a voltage test with my scanner, 12.2V whilst resting and 14.6V when driving - mechanic at work got fairly low amps from it, though - he tried doing a battery jump, I turned the car on and still none of the dials/gauges are working - he is going to charge the battery for a few hours in the meantime. Can anyone shed any light? I could send the instrument cluster off to ECUTesting but will still cost me more in the long run if that's not the issue... as on their website they describe the symptoms of a bad cluster as being the car cutting out/not being able to start? But mine is starting and driving fine? Not sure if it's worth mentioning but recently the indicator sound has been very intermittent in my car... Any help much appreciated! Em IMG_2041.MP4