jdragon

Understood, thank you. Hence the name Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve. It's appalling 😄 All being well I'll get more than 70k miles out of the next one.

Superb explanation as always, thank you. The only diesel I use is Esso. And i'm using the Archoil now instead of the Millers. Oil is either Comma Prolife 5w30 or Castrol Edge 5w30 ll. I typically change oil (drain from sump plug) and filter every 6 months, which is usually around 8-10k miles. What are Audi referring to as "reducing agent" and if it's the AdBlue, how is that even getting back to the EGR cooler???

That was my thought, however the Audi TSB suggests it is, along with a special driving profile which I assume means short runs. How frequently should a DPF regen occur? My research indicates ~300 miles, and I'm seeing this around 280-320 miles. TPI_2050077-7.pdf

Turns out they are much the same: https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/460/

I've recently discovered Meguiar's G15812EU Ultimate Black Plastic and Trim Restorer which, I have to say, is actually very good. I used it on my old A4 before it was handed over to the new owner around 4 months ago, and the plastic still looks great. This product is also for use on rubber, but I'm not overly fussed about looks, more just preventing degradation issues as they age (which this product likely does anyway). However, does anyone care to much about treating the window seals, and what do you use?

In my experience, 'open circuit' can mean anything from a broken wire to quite simply a failed component. Or maybe I'm thinking of 'short to ground'? 😕

Reviving this thread for any recent views on which type of AdBlue to use, especially with it being a contributing factor to the dreaded EGR cooler blocking aka P2002 00 My car specifically is A5 2.0 190 Ultra (DETA).

Interesting read. What is the fault code? Out of interest; what were you sold as the benefits of the AdBlue delete? And the consequences on the rest of the system? Steve is right, the EGR cooler is likely at fault here. Your soot values are a little higher than mine, but the limit is 80g for the A5. Don't keep trying to force the regens, because you risk cracking your DPF. Before you worry too much, I'd attempt a G450 sensor adaption and monitor for a few weeks. Not forgetting the Cataclean treatment!

If I were doing this, I'd either look at the other wing mirror and take one of the screws out to see if I had something similar, or see if erWin manual lists it, or lastly phone Audi parts.

It's a great tool. I originally purchased it several years ago to code a new battery on my A4 B8, and I've since learned by reading posts from other people's experiences. There's a lot of questionable info regarding coding, especially the battery change on the A4 B8s and A5 B9. However be assured what I've posted is 100% working (apart from turning of the super annoying 'engine running' alert 😄). And this is my way of paying forward, so thanks for the response. Google search captures most, but the Ross-Tech forum is definitely the best place to start.

I'll check it out 😂

Enable Rear DRLs: [09-Central Elec] > [Coding-07] > [Long Coding Helper] > Allow Experimental Data > Byte 2 > Bit 3 = sl_at_drl -------------------------------- Flashing Tail Lights with Emergency Brake: [46-Central Conv] > [Coding-07] > [Long Coding Helper] > Allow Experimental Data > Byte 21 > Bit 0 = Emergency_brake_indication_active -------------------------------- Hazards Flashing with Emergency Stop: [46-Central Conv] > [Coding-07] > [Long Coding Helper] > Allow Experimental Data > Byte 36 > Bit 1 = Emergency_stop_hazard_flashing_active -------------------------------- I was helped with the following on Ross-Tech forums but it didn't work for me: Engine Running Warning Off: [17-Instruments] > [Adaptation-10] > IDE06588-Ignition active message: actuator > changed from 'Driver Door' to 'No Display' --------------------------------

I've just emptied a full tank treated with Archoil, so will continue to use. Alternatively, we just need a redneck insitu EGR cooler cleaning method to blast the crap out of it 😄

It's insane! I'd take the CAGA lump from my A4 in the A5 any day 😀 My driving pattern is optimum, but what's not clear to me now is how much benefit the Archoil and will have on keeping the recirculation system in a better state, to prolong the life of the cooler once it has been changed. Having to change it again after another 70k miles wouldn't be the end of the world, but it's far from ideal.

It's definitely not a main dealer only task, assuming you have access to VCDS for basic setting 🙂

Or better still: Audi A5 B9 Particulate Trap Bank 1 - P2002 00 [101] - Efficiency Below Threshold

I'm wondering if there would be any value in adding "- P2002 00 [101]" to the title of this thread 🤔

I was considering paying Audi a silly amount of money to update my maps, but discovered Android Auto.

Will be interesting to know how you get on.

Here it is 🙂 rec_mot_ins.pdf

I didn't know there are two. Have just looked through the workshop manual: - Exhaust gas recirculation valve 1 -GX5- (high pressure side) V339 - Exhaust gas recirculation valve 2 -GX6- (low pressure side) V338 Might have to see what they say about cleaning the V339 😃 The garage is very good; founded by master techs, and they will work with you to get the right solution. The Audi dealership up the road from them has been known to send in cars when they are over capacity. I've tried, as always, to be pragmatic with this fault but as I said in another post; sometimes there are things best left to the pros 😎

I thought I was too; my old A4 behaved nothing like this when the same motor failed 😄 It's fully accessible from inside the car without needing to remove anything. I've got the workshop manual, so I'll attach it later when I'm home. The flap positions need to be reset when the motor has been installed.

It definitely appears so. The motor is £219 Inc VAT from Audi. They've updated the part which is indicated by the 'A' at the end of the number 4M0.820.511.A

Something to add for consideration: unless you have the exact code from a scan as I posted above, it could be the fresh air flap motor according to TPI_2058123-2

Hi Steve, thank you for considering this, and for the feedback. Was is TPI_2050077-7 posted on Apr 27th? I enquired about the EGR cooler with a VAG specialist I've taken the cars to for around 8 years (to get a feel for the "what if") and they said it's a 6 hour job totaling ~£900 with a new EGR valve and cooler assembly. Cleaning is a possibility but they didn't recommend it because most of the cost is labour. They also recommended changing the sensors for the reasons you suggested, as the overall cost is insignificant. And the quality of AdBlue can attribute to this greatly. Definitely not on the same level as the A4 ha. It wouldn't be my luck for it to come down to the sensor. I had the MIL come on the dash, so I've raised it with the warranty company and will see how it goes. Given these engines can do in excess of 300k if serviced, the recirculation system is a disaster.