jdragon

A random scan brought up the following error code and measure values from the DPF (no amber DPF warning light on the dash): --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Monday,11,April,2022,18:21:34 Mileage: 113739km-70674miles 1 Fault Found: 19226 - Particulate Trap Bank 1 P2002 00 [101] - Efficiency Below Threshold Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Mileage: 113721 km Date: 2022.04.09 Time: 09:51:43 Engine RPM: 1217.50 /min Normed load value: 26.7 % Vehicle speed: 22 km/h Coolant temperature: 90 °C Intake air temperature: 55 °C Ambient air pressure: 1010 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 14.940 V Unlearning counter according OBD: 40 Exhaust mass flow of low-pressure EGR: calculated: 3.986 Differential pressure ratio: low-pressure EGR: 20.5 kg/h Exh.recircul. 2: differential pres.sensor 1 bank 1: adap. value: 19.9 hPa Exhaust recirculat.2: different.press.sens.1 bank 1: raw value: 16.2 hPa Exh.recircul.valve 1 bank 1: pos.feedback - Actual value: 83.87 % Exhaust recirc.valve 2 bank 1: posit.feedback - Actual value: 31.54 % Exh. gas recirc. 2: diff. press. sensor 1 bank 1: dyn. value: 20.5 hPa Measuring blocks immediately after: IDE00430-ENG57549 Particle filter: field regeneration request status-Bits 0-7 0 IDE00432 Particle filter: time since last regeneration 4.287 H IDE00434 Particle filter: soot mass calculated 17.77 g IDE00435 Particle filter: soot mass measured 4.76 g IDE00436 Particle filter: kilometers since last regeneration 277.2 km --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Some internet research led me to going for a drive at 2-2500RPM (basically 60mph in 4th gear) for >20 minutes to burn some build up off the DPF. That didn't work, so I followed the support on the Ross-tech website and did a regeneration at idle for UDS. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Diesel_Particle_Filter_Emergency_Regeneration When the process had completed after about 12 minutes, I did another scan and measured the values again. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Monday,11,April,2022,19:56:17 Mileage: 113808km-70717miiles 1 Fault Found: 19226 - Particulate Trap Bank 1 P2002 00 [101] - Efficiency Below Threshold Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Mileage: 113749 km Date: 2022.04.11 Time: 18:21:54 Engine RPM: 2392.50 /min Normed load value: 35.3 % Vehicle speed: 95 km/h Coolant temperature: 91 °C Intake air temperature: 92 °C Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 14.780 V Unlearning counter according OBD: 40 Exhaust mass flow of low-pressure EGR: calculated: 4.458 Differential pressure ratio: low-pressure EGR: 41.9 kg/h Exh.recircul. 2: differential pres.sensor 1 bank 1: adap. value: 67.1 hPa Exhaust recirculat.2: different.press.sens.1 bank 1: raw value: 65.1 hPa Exh.recircul.valve 1 bank 1: pos.feedback - Actual value: 71.35 % Exhaust recirc.valve 2 bank 1: posit.feedback - Actual value: 79.32 % Exh. gas recirc. 2: diff. press. sensor 1 bank 1: dyn. value: 71.8 hPa Measuring blocks immediately after: IDE00430-ENG57549 Particle filter: field regeneration request status-Bits 0-7 0 IDE00432 Particle filter: time since last regeneration 0.086 H IDE00434 Particle filter: soot mass calculated 5.48 g IDE00435 Particle filter: soot mass measured -5.90 g IDE00436 Particle filter: kilometers since last regeneration 0.0 km IDE06059 Particulate filter: oil ash mass 27.3242038 g IDE06060 Particulate filter ash load limit 80.000 g --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Why does it think the soot mass measured is now negative. Is this typical following a regen? I didn't log the oil ash mass initially, but it went up by ~0.005g The first set of data suggests the car has recently done a passive regen, which was likely during my drive to/from work. Any help/nudge in the direction to understanding the output from the regen/if something else needs investigating would be much appreciated. Also, the EGR values are a mystery to me. What do the % mean?

Agreed. This might help: https://www.audiworld.com/forums/audi-a5-s5-rs5-coupe-cabrio-b9-220/removing-door-panels-2970819/

Great info

Hi all, I have an old HEX-USB+CAN cable (unlimited) and a recently purchased HEX-V2 cable (limited for now) Is there any scope for offering this as a fixed price donation type service for members in the Peterborough area? I was considering travelling to the owners home address/meet a mutually agreeable location for either: Scan and clear all DTCs including an emailed copy of the log for £30 The above plus one adaption (done by car owner) for £35 + £2.50 for further adaptions Any thoughts would be appreciated or if you're interested please get in touch

Nice work

No worries. It's not something we have to think of as they're usually changed with tyres; for whatever reason mine weren't and they had perished/split. The first DIY setup to change them was interesting. In the end I used a block of wood and the weight of the car to separate the tyre from the rim 😃

Just to close this topic; I bought valve type TR413 and they're a perfect fit.

Or the value type needed to fit these wheels? 🙂

These guys are good too https://brakeparts.co.uk/

Silicone grease is a better choice if you lubricate them again. It sounds like you need to replace the guide rubbers (and probably the pins). Try this company: http://www.biggred.co.uk/ They have a shop on eBay too. I bought a pair front caliper repair kits (piston, giude rubbers, pins, seals etc.) from these guys to rebuild my B8. Quality parts and when doing the job I split a seal, and they sent me out another for next day delivery.

Does anybody know the valve stem hole diameter for the 18" Ronal alloys?

Ok that would be great, thank you.

Hi guys, Is there a way to turn off the 'air bag on beep' in a 2013 A6?

Hi guys, A friend owns a 2013 A6 and finds it incredibly frustrating that he cannot get out of the car without the engine switching off. Is there a way of deactivating this feature using VCDS?

The short answer is yes, this will work for any battery even if the manufacturer is not listed in the VCDS menu. You can simply change the last digit if the serial number currently logged to your car for it to recognise the new battery. I did this when fitting mine and it worked - the system is not that intelligent. The long answer: From my research I concluded the coding is extra Audi fluff to prevent people with cars under warranty from swapping their batteries with a mates duff one, to get a free replacement. When you scan the QR on an Audi original battery you get something that looks like this: 205# 8K0 915 105 F #1#315472985#170712 *205 MLA1C7HBAF%*= If you take the MLA plus the last 5 before "*=" and then drop the last symbol you have: MLA HBAF Then reverse the pairs between # and *205 to give 120717 (the date when battery was manufactured likely) The code you will have is MLA120717HBAF This is the unique BEM that is printed on the battery and is precisely how Audi can reverse code to know if it has been changed. I cannot remember the source of the above info but I applied the method to my own battery (as did others in the post) and it works. Interestingly, I removed my original battery to fully charge it and when I fitted it again it was recognised in the MMI and showed it had been charged. So why did it not instantly recognise my new battery? My assumption here is charging alone will not reduce the resistance (Ohms) of an old/aging battery and this is probably the only thing the ECU/battery element of the system will recognise as changed (original battery was 7.0 mOhms, new was 4.2 mOhms). I hope this helps.

Quick update: I went for the Varta G3 Blue Dynamic 12V 95Ah 800A in the end delivered for £98.94 I didn't bother with connecting a backup power source, so there was about 10 minutes or so with no power in the system which didn't cause any issues later. Once the battery was connected, I checked the power meter in the MMI but it was greyed out; curiosity go the better of me so I started the car and still greyed out. I had borrowed my mates VCDS setup and coded as follows: [19 - CAN-Gateway] [Long Adaptation-0A] [Channel] 004 [Read] VCDS populated the instructions in a pop up window with the formatting: For my car, I did the following: Part number remained the same Changed the manufacturer code to VA0 Entered the date and last 4 digits of the number etched into the battery 8K0915105E VA0 YYMMDDSSSS [Test] [Save] [Done, Go Back] [Close Controller, Go Back - 06] Started the car and the MMI battery state was at 100% I Checked measuring blocks 018, 019 & 020 showed the battery SOC was 86% and the MMI was displaying 100% (original battery was something like SOC 25%, MMI 40%) Lots of people had success with just changing the last digit of the serial number but I thought it was a bit cleaner to add the date, which is the format of the original BEM.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/audi.partsdirect

I found these guys by accident (on eBay) when looking to buy Quantum 5w30 LL in place of Castrol for my last oil change 🙂

Hi all, I hope everyone is keeping safe during these challenging times. Unfortunately a period of not driving my car has expedited the demise of the battery in my A4. It's currently fitted with the original Moll 8k0 915 105 E 12V 450A 95Ah DIN (760A EN/SAE) I have (currently) selected a Bosch S4013 12V 95Ah (800A EN/SAE) at a reasonable(?) price of £99.99 The car does not have stop-start functionality, so presumably the original battery is LA? Although I appreciate the improvements of moving to AGM I'll have the car no longer than 3 years, so paying the extra £2x/3x seems unnecessary? A bit of research has led me to understand the replacement needs to be programmed to the car with a BEM code: Part Number (10 Digits) Vendor Code (3 Digits) Battery Serial Number (10 Digits) Talking to the supplier, the Bosch battery does not have this info. I have read that in instances like this, I can simply increment the battery serial number and leave everything else the same in VCDS. Does anyone have experience doing this?

Interesting thinking back to this now - a risky strategy but it paid of in this instance. My next query is one I probably won't be so brave with 😄

It's that time again; having clocked ~16k the Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3 are almost ready to replace. Has anyone got experience with the Dunlop Sport Maxx RT2? They are the same price as the GYEF1 but according to tyrereviews.co.uk they have a better wear rating :)

I ran the Goodyear EfficientGrip Performance until the wear indicator and got ~15k out of them. After a little research and advice from the manager at my local F1 Auto Centre my choices for replacement were either: Michelin Pilot Sport 4 @ £125 ea., Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3 @ £113 ea. or Cooper Zeon CS Sport @ £110 ea. Timing was such that I had the Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3. They feel good and are possibly a bit quieter that the EF (and I will hopefully be able to do few k more mileage too).

I used to get ~25k out of Kumho Ecsta Le Sport KU39 fitted to the rear of my Merc (driven on the exact some route), so as far as I'm concerned 12k is bad. Going to go for the Kumho again seems logical but I thought it might be worth asking the question here first. If the motorbike comment was a joke, I don't get it :)

Which brand of tyre are you buying at the moment? I fitted a full set of Goodyear EfficientGrip Performance back in June last year and the fronts aren't looking especially meaty after only 12k miles. My commute to work is ~35 miles of mainly A roads

No, but only because I don't like to the same thing twice if I can avoid. I've risked it and bought a two plug wing mirror, which arrived today, and it folds manually so at worst I'll have a lose plug behind my door card. I'm going to fit it Saturday morning so I'll report back either way ;)