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Hi all. Had this issue for a while now. Changed the abs sensors hoping that was the problem with the yellow abs warning light. Checked for voltage at each sensor. 26.5V at both fronts and nothing at the rear. Took off the stub axle and looks like it might be the magnetic ring is duff. Can someone confirm it Cheers Ste

is it not a bi-hex bolt?

Hey bit of an update. changed the ABS sensors on rear of car. OMG what a job to get them out. Ended up with me smashing them off level with the hub then using a punch to drive them out. New ones didnt want to go in. I think water has got into the hole and rust has took hold and i think that was what jammed in the sensors and made it hard to put new ones in. also changed the connections just to make sure in case the problem was there. And now there is no flashing red brake light and no yellow ABS warning light. Job done!!! just need to figure out the yellow warning for the power steering. Is it a MOT failure with that light on? cheers ste

Thanks for the info. It turned out to be a loose connection on the fuse panel in the engine bay. Number 19 fuse if anyone needs to know. Will find out which wheels are at fault fir the abs system before changing them out. Just the power steering to contend with and i dont know anything about the electric power steering. Theres no loss of power assistance when turning the wheelso hoping its a wire come off or sonething simple. Cheers

didnt get the 3 faults in one week. got the ABS and steering warnings about the same time, a couple of months ago now. only when i took the wheels off to see if the abs sensors were bunged up with crap and possible broke the rear ones that was wednesday. only today when i turned the wipers on there was nothing ive got ABS warning light (yellow) Steering warning light (yellow) flashing red brake light but i have got brakes well the ABS is hopefully one of the sensors, going to change all 4 and change the connectors too. The steering one still stuck on that one. Didnt think the wipers would be connected to the ABS or the steering. really need the car for work so if it rains im stuck. just need the damn things to work cheers

hi all, day3, snag 3 this morning going to work and my front wipers are not working. Ive checked the fuses, didnt know which one it is so checked all of them. undid the interior fuse panel to push the relays in but still nothing. Rear wiper works as normal and so does the front washer. getting a bit fed up with this car now and its due for its MOT within a month can anybody shed so light on what to do next cheers

hi all, does anyone know where i can buy the ABS electrical connectors from. I kind of broke mine and currently held on by a dab of superglue. the tool to remove the pins too much appreciated Ste

thanks cliffcoggin but doesnt really help. ive read about it online but theres nothing i could find that tells me what to check.

Hi guys. Bit stuck on this one. I have the yellow steering wheel warning lit on the dash. Not to clued up on the steering system. I had the battery disconnected for a week when i went on holiday hoping it might solve it but didnt. The light is on all the time and only time it goes out is when keys out The steering isnt heavy and just feels like it was before the light came on. I had a slightly flat battery months ago and couldnt start the car without a slight push, could there be something there like a power surge or something like blowing a fuse. To sum up light on but no loss in steering or power steering. Thsnks for any help.

I fitted a relay to my cig lighter socket from a switched live in the fuse box

The steering wheel warning light has lit up on the dash. This happened when the battery was almost flat and couldn't start the car. We bumped started it and since then the warning light has been on. I tried the lock to lock to see if that helped but didn't and I have no idea what to do or what to look for next. Could it be a fuse or sensor. I've checked online and it says the steering usually becomes heavier but to be honest it hasn't changed or slightly easier. I've noticed when accelerating the car pulls to the right and decelerating pulls to the left, don't know if that has anything to do with it. Thanks in advance for any help

I've had a lot of problems on this motor. 3 years ago the gearbox went. Changed that and change the flywheel to single mass. Changed the clutch and everything. The biting point after that was very high to the point where in 4th or 5th it would slip slightly due to wind resistance but only slip slightly. Eventually that stopped but the biting point was still extremely high. Roll on to last weekend. Just dropped the misses off and coming home dropped it into 3rd from 4th booted it then the clutch felt weird. Travel was shorter like it wasn't going down all the way. Pulled onto driveway and pressed it a little harder and pop something went. Thought it was slave at first but turned out to be master. Changed that and got what feels the same just before it went pop. Hard to engage 1st especially Got a new slave cylinder arriving tomorr5so I'm going to fit that rebled the system and see how it goes. Just a after thought. Could it be crap in the pipe causing a slight blockage. The fluid was very dark when bled it. Cheers

The eezibleed kit did work eventually and it pushed out the old darkish brake fluid and started running golden and it pushed out the air bubbles until no more bubbles. I filled the eezibleed container twice so used quite a bit of fluid.

Ok had a slight snag with clutch master cylinder in that it kind of exploded. At first I thought it was the slave cylinder in till I took it out and saw it was fine. Checked master cylinder and there were loads of plastic bits in the football. Put the slave cylinder back on and replaced the master cylinder. The problem now is that the clutch doesn't have as much travel as it did before. The biting point is almost at the floor. Just about manage to change gear but reverse is a grind and thud. When I bled the system, I had major trouble getting the fluid in. I used eezibleed kit. Managed to get fluid going after pumping the clutch a bit. Actually a lot. Please someone help because I'm out of ideas now.

Don't believe this. I've got electrical gremlins on my drivers front window. Sometimes it works normal and other times doesn't work at all. Opening and closing the door sometimes starts working again. Locking the car and unlocking then open and closing the door sometimes gets it going. Anybody got a clue what's going on

Replaced with solid mass flywheel. Yes replaced all parts. Flywheel, fiction plate, cover and thrust bearing. Dont need as much pressure than the last one and is silky smooth to press, just would like the biting point where it used to be. If I keep my foot lightly on the pedal (I know that's wrong) which delivering around housing estates turning left and right a lot I tend to do and it starts slipping a bit but as soon as I take my foot off it fully locks in and I rocket down the road. Got to have a bit of fun. all the parts were bought as a convention kit, all in 1 box from a high street car spares place. They say they sell a lot to taxi drivers since it's so much cheaper

I thought the idea of the self adjusting was so the pedal doesn't change with wear and it takes up any slack (so to speak). With the biting point being high would that mean it's going to start slipping well before it wears out. I thought the biting point gets higher and higher the more the clutch wears.

Thanks Trevor. I thought as much I just don't understand why it's so high. It's self adjusting so why has it changed when I change the clutch. I thought it would of been the same.

Could it be that the line needs bleeding even though I didn't disconnect the hydraulic line from the slave. Think im grabbing at straws now

Hi all. Recently changed my clutch to a smf with which I'm happy with. The only thing is the biting point is quite high. With the old clutch which was a dmf the biting point was lower down. I know the slave cylinder is hydraulic and is self adjusting but is there anything I can do to get the biting point lower. Thanks for any advice.

sorted nothing to do with clutch, I hadn't connected a intake pipe correctly I was rushing last night trying to get things done before my dinner was ready

ok bit of an update. couldnt find any broken or loose wires but the engine management light came on the codes read: stored codes P0299 - turbocharger/supercharger "A" underboost condition pending codes P0101 - mass or volume air flow "A" circuit range/performance P0299 - turbocharger/supercharger "A" underboost condition do you think this will be just the air flow metre if so how much does one of these cost

hi everyone, not been on in a while I changed my clutch yesterday to a smf. after everything back on started no problem. reversed off driveway and headed down the road. there was no power. at a steady speed the whole carstarted to judder quite bad. my question is do I have to have the ecu remapped or something the only other thing I can think of is that I have pulled/broken some wire which is my next check. thanks in advance for any help Ste

A few times it doesn't work. Only occasionally now. Just press the buttons a few times and it works again. So still none the wiser if it's the key or the car