Jim-A3-1.9TDi-2007

James I wanted to give you and other members an important heads-up. Our blown engine was very probably caused by diesel fuel in the engine oil sump. BXE engine owners have just accepted the problem as a defective engine or long oil change intervals (20k miles) but no manufacturer would expose themselves to this without being well within the risk, and modern oils don't deteriorate as they used to. The diesel fuel is forced past the piston rings into the sump during extended DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) regen cycles, diluting the oil. This causes loss of lubrication at the big-end bearings, which in turn causes either big-end wear and knocking, or the big-end to seize and break the conrod, which is what happened to ours. Thousands of diesel cars are damaged in this way every year particularly ones doing short journeys and low speeds so the regen cycles don't complete and restart ad infinitum. The problem can be detected by the oil level in the sump rising. So the level must be checked weekly at least. There's a lot of evidence and warnings on the web, including from the AA, so you can find it easily. Please pass on this info and warning to other members, if even one engine is saved it will be excellent. Many thanks for your kind response to a newbie, I wanted to return the favour. Best regards, Jim

Yes we got a used Ford Kuga It's a very nice car to drive and being higher the view of the road is great.

Hi James. Just to update you and end this thread. The car sold a couple of weeks ago for near to the price we wanted, so all ended well. Thanks for your help, much appreciated. All the best.

Many thanks James.

Is there a forum here to advertise the car James?

Think it would be worth £3750 not the top £4,500 (top Autotrader price for 57 plate with similar mileage, 133k), because it has a couple of marks, one is a car-park scrape on the bumper, the other is the grill edge surround was cracked, it has been repaired but not rechromed. So hoping for £2,250. What do you think, is this reasonable?

Hi James, thanks for your reply, it's very quiet here isn't it ;) Yes I had a quote of £1600 to fit a recon engine. It has done about 133,000 miles The engine is a BXE. They have a habit of doing this. The last oil change was only on November, about 10k miles ago. The info from the audi-sport.net forum I posted on is that the oil and filter must be changed more frequently, and to replace the con rods and conrod bearings before it happens! Definitely not what we would expect from an Audi or VW. So this is yet another warning to other 1.9 BXE engine owners. Check my thread there, with the same title, for more info, with pictures of other similar damages. It's not a pretty sight. We will sell it as it is because that would take it over its value. If anyone is interested please let me know, it's advertised elsewhere too. Many thanks James.

Hello chaps. Black/Black Audi A3 as in the title. A conrod came out through the front side of the sump (facing the rad) at motorway speed. I posted about it here: Would anyone be interested in buying the rest of the car, as a rebuild project at a reasonable price? It was an excellent driver, everything in good condition and regularly serviced, almost all motorway mileage, and just a couple of scuff marks won in car parks from people who hate Audis.

Any thoughts at all chaps? Would anyone here be interested in buying the rest of this car for a reasonable price? It is black/black, in excellent condition, excellent tyres all round, with 2 of them about 3,000 miles old, with only a couple of bumper rubs from car parks. Maybe as a project to put in a souped-up engine, and play with it, make it an exciting car again? By the way, it wasn't a piston, it is a whole conrod, minus big end and little end! lol It came out through the front-facing side of the sump, towards the radiator. Left a nice hole.

Oil ight means low oil level or low oil pressure. It's dangerous! Check the oil level. WIthin one minute of me getting my car back after an oil and filter change, my oil light came on. I went back immediately, They had put in a measured amount of oil in instead of filling to the dipstick mark, and it was 3 litres less than my car needs! Duhhh!! Sounds like you are back to the original problem. And half a tooth out on the timing chain is impossible. The camshaft pulleys and crank pulleys are all keyed. One whole tooth is the smallest unit of toothses! They are all whole toothses! Not a single half toothsie anywhere in any engine, unless it's broke! lol As James advises, don't guess, go back. Next time to go someone who knows MUCH more about stripping and fixing engines, it doesn't have to be an Audi mechie.

I like these games of "guess my most vaguely described symptom" - it helps pass the time. lol You haven't mentioned how the clutch was operating, nor the size of the oil leak, nor where it's coming from other than an indirect way, vaguely, and those are crucial to understanding your problem more. At a guess you have already had the problem fixed, but here's my guess, interested to know if I hit it: For this symptom If it was grinding and wouldn't go into gear with the clutch depressed, and the pedal is soft or feels loose, and goes to the floor easily, unlike when it was working, and if the oil leak is minor and the brake fuild level in the reservoir is reasonable, it is usually the thrust bearing worn out or its yoke is broken. If the brake fluid has drained out, then the hydraulic fluid leaked out of the clutch slave cylinder, since you suspect the driveshaft seal y9u lead us to think it is at low level, but if there is a leak from higher up then it is likely leaking from the clutch master cylinder. Otherwise, depending on the actual type of the grinding noise, and if gear can be selected, then it was most probably your clutch plates contaminated with oil and slipping so the car goes nowhere. You would have founnd it was slipping before and getting worse. But if there was no significant oil loss and the metal on metal grinding is quite loud, then It is probebly worn out, would produce a smooth continual oscillating metal on metal grinding noise when the clutch is released in gear, if you have ever heard brake disc / pad grinding it is similar but quieter. A drive shaft seal would not be connected to the clutch mechanism. Which one was right? If none oif these, what was the cause and what were the true symptoms?

Must admit I had a vague but slightly uncomfortable feeling about buying an Audi right from the beginning. Same when I did other things that went wrong later. Next time I should listen to my feelings :) Anyone else had a disaster or huge expense with your Audi?

Brian if it's the timing belt you mean, the general guide is 5 years / 70,000-80,000 miles. The car will also tell you when the next service is due. Here are links to a couple of the handbooks (2007) if you want them: http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/2009-a4-b8-avant-user-manual-pdf.203598/#post-2017432 If it's the auixiliary drive belt that you can see, then just inspect it, if it's dark and looks even coloured throughout and there are no broken teeth, and there are no whining noises from it or from its idler and tensioner pulleys, just check it once a month or so while you give the whole car a clean and once-over. If there is whining or it is dry or cracked or discoloured or the lettering on it is mostly faded away or its shiny then change it. I usually change mine every 3-4 years. If the car has done more than 100,000 then have the tensionser and idler pulleys replaced too if you want to the car to be in top form. Score marks on discs are not a problem unless they are more than say 1/2 mm deep, as long as the discs are not warped. If the discs are warped you will feel vibration through the brake pedal when you are braking. If they are deep scores then change the discs, if they are not then just change them next time you change the pads. More important is engine oil and engine oil filter, and fuel filter and air filter, get those changed on time, the intervals are in your handbook. And cabin air filters, people forget them and they reduce air flow and can also slow the fans and give you a musty smell. If it's a car you're thinking to buy, find another one because those screen scratches are going to drive you nuts if they are easily visible, my Merc has several on one quarter pane and they let the car down.

Hi chaps, I'm new to these forums and need some help and advice please. Our 2007 A3 1.9TDi's engine broke on the motorway at high speed a couple of days ago, the recovery mechanic said one of the pistons had broken away and come out through the "bottom of the engine". There was no warning, just a loud pop/thump and then dead. I've not had a chance to get under to see exactly what happened or where yet. Is this as common a problem as it seems? What is the probable cause for a piston to break away and come through the bottom or side? I seem to remember it's got the BXE engine but can anyone tell me how to tell for sure? I'm after some info on who/where we can contact about the possibility of repairing the engine, or a source of a replacement engine in Berkshire. Or are there other options from your experience? Or pros and cons to just selling the car as it is, approximate value? All input is very welcome, it's quite an unexpected pleasure to be here ;) Thanks.