Brucielee

Hi there jono, check the wiring to each of your injectors and eliminate there being a broken wire to one of them or failed plastic covering the wires allowing them to short out

Got a friend with an a3 as above, was going fine and then stopped, I know there are cambelt tensioner issues with these engines, took the cam belt cover off and the tensioner is still well tensioned and belt is still tight, now the marks that have been put on the camshaft pulleys for timing purposes I would suspect, they are out of line by 3 teeth on the belt according to the timing marks, Firstly is there any other known problems that I should look for and should I try to reset the timing to see if it will start Whatever I do its not going to do anymore damage if it's already done as it's going to need a new engine anyway Any input or thoughts would be greatly welcomed Thanks

Have you any bits left

OK so here's another strange one, 2.5tdi a4 b6, when I accelerate it sounds like a v6 should, but when I let off the accelerator to change gear it sounds like a dump valve hiss, as far as I was aware there aren't any on diesels, it's not lacking power and there are no lights or fault codes to tell me the boost pressure is down, has anyone came across this before, maybe it's meant to sound that way, I don't know, just like to find out what it is incase it's a growing fault somewhere, although it sounds good Thanks in advance

There were limited edition of the a4 that came with a factory fitted dtm bodykit, to put your mind at ease, smart looking

Hi dustycat, it'll definitely not be a b4 model, if your chassis number has 8E in it as the 7th and 8th digits after the letters then it'll be a b6, this determines the part numbers for your model if it's a b5 I think the part numbers start 8d which would be in the chassis number, hope that helps

Update....... Thanks Trevor for getting back to me, So trolled through the Internet half of the night much to the annoyance of the missus, cars and women ehh, can't live with them can't live without them So i read post after post of audi owners with the same problems, it's the abs module that needs looked into rather than the steering control module that I suspected first of all, so first of all there's a few car specific things you need to find out, the id type of abs module whether it's a 5.3 or 5.7, then the pr code for the front brakes, can be found on sticker in spare wheel well, then engine and gearbox code, also on the same sticker, these things allow you to translate into a code, the link takes you to the ross-tech site that you'll need to follow http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Audi_A4_(8E)_Brake_Electronics_(Bosch_5.7) If you follow this and I've done it on vcds lite with a bay special lead lol and it's cleared and logged the codes for my car, cleared the lights off the dashboard and now I can keep on driving happily knowing that I, someone with no knowledge of computers in cars, I was able to sort it out in 10 minutes without getting robbed by some garage to do the same But it must be said that it has to be followed precisely in order to work A YouTube video by risk tech will explain it all in detail Hope this might help someone solve their problems like mine

So as above had to change the indicator stalk as it was doing its own thing, indicating whatever direction it fancied, so had to take steering wheel and the squib behind it then obviously the stalk which is connected to the control module, without thinking I took the lot out, disconnecting the control module, used the same module to put on the new indy stalk, when I got it all back together and turned the ignition the brake fault light is flashing, the esp and abs on constantly, only have vcds lite, so plugged it in, says steering wheel control module not coded and steering wheel angle sensor fault, does anyone know why the ecu would lose the control module code when it's the same one back in and how do you rectify the problem and getting rid of the dash lights,

Would you not stay with a standard exhaust and maybe get the tips changed or something if your not wanting silly loud, a 3.0tdi v6 if like my 2.5tdi v6 sounds great standard and would be a shame if I changed it for the worse

Sounds like too much work I agree although you can buy the rs4 lookalike weld on exhaust tips which if you've already got the v6 and if it's anything like mine it sounds really good standard so the tips would just open up the end of the pipe a bit and look just as good, although you'd have to modify the rear skirt abit to fit them

Pubs

The longest I've done James was to the south of France, a little place between marseilles and nice, took just over 2 days with stopping and starting, first time I'd drove on the wrong side for us lol, that took a bit of getting used to, spent nearly three weeks on a beach side camping resort with waterfronts and then did the lot back again, it sounds daft but in the hotter weather and being able to get the windows right down and get the tunes going, it is so more enjoyable to drive.what about yourself

What's it going onto, model and engine, there's a couple of things you'd need to keep an eye on, size of the piping from yours to a rs4 pipe, rs4 pipe I would imagine is going to be a larger diameter than most, then there's the hangers for the exhaust make sure they are on both sides for the two boxes and the direction that it's taking underneath the car to make sure that the likes of the fuel tank placement and if it's not 4wd that the rear axle isn't set up differently, not putting you off but better to know that it's going to be a one out one in job without to much messing about with modifying if it needs it, had thought of it myself and still might, I'd need to get the rear bumper skirt changed so the exhausts can go straight rather than being hidden,

If your thinking on a rs4 exhaust there's a few on the bay at reasonable prices

Your welcome, just glad to hear your getting sorted, have you anymore plans on upgrades or changes to the car