Magnet

Thanks Emily, Renewing the (poor brand) battery may not prove to be a cure, so if it were mine, I would be going along to the recommended VAG independent as a next course of action. re. batteries:- simple voltage is no longer king, and neither is its ability to start the car. The car’s systems monitor things like cold cranking current etc.etc. and this may not be up to par. It could well be an instrument cluster issue, but the prior approach must be logical -as said - entrust the final battery and alternator efficiency testing to the independent ( Kwik Fit ?) and then take sound advice from them. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome, The new battery may (just may ) need coding to the car, but 2007 is on the borderline for needing that done. Have you checked the alternator output, and have all battery and starter motor connections been checked? Kind regards, Gareth.

Your only option is to get this one replaced under warranty and hope for the best Aaron. If it were mine, I would also be getting the alternator output checked to ensure it’s not creating daftly over voltages. Let us know how you get on.

Have a look at EBC products.

Thanks Mark, Before investing in a new sensor or anything else, I would just take the car for a 5mile plus run and actually measure the coolant temperature - via. a cheap digital reader. I would suspect the thermostat- but that’s an assumption until the running temperature is assessed.

Hello Siyab, You have a drain of around 8amps - can’t really call it parasitic! I would think that your auto electrician’s advice of sorting out the shorts is sound. I would also disconnect the alternator plug, since current loss through this is a possibility if a diode has gone. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Aaron, Genuine VAG replacements or Chinese copies? Kind regards, Gareth.

Sticking.

I would suspect the caliper.

Welcome David, A couple or so questions:- Are you a ‘slow down in anticipation driver’, or have a tendency to be ‘last seconds on the brakes’? Are you renewing these discs yourself, or having them fitted for you? What brand/s have been fitted? Have you read Steve Q’s excellent post about the mating surface of discs and hubs? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Dan, Well worth tapping your registration into Tayna’s website and asking them for recommendations and a quote for Exide. They will probably try to push you towards their ‘own brand’ Enduroline? , but if you stick with the correct Exide, you won’t go far wrong. Kind regards, Gareth.

You are welcome Jeremy, but you have the wrong end of the stick here. Fuses alway, just always blow for a reason, so replacing the fuse isn’t going to solve the problem long term, hence the suggestion to first check if you have 12v arriving at the rear screen. If you do, the problem is after that point. If you don’t, only then do you need to trace back - starting with investigating whether there is a fracture in the flexible harness section twixt body and tailgate - common issue this time of year when temperatures renders wires to be more brittle. Kind regards, Gareth.

You are very welcome Alan. The Evoque is now on its second replacement-from-new OE set, and have done far better than expected, mileage wise. The current set were on offer at National Tyres at the time, and unusually, worked out cheaper than competitors. NT is part of Halfords, I would just do an on- line search to get best prices at reliable outlets. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks.

Isn’t that exactly what I advised in my post of 19th Feb.

Thanks Emily, Not too sure whether 2021 or 2018 has much bearing over it - crxp is crxp whatever its age. This is a very difficult one to confidently advise on, but having said that, you have what appears to be an incorrect spec. low grade battery, with no evidence that it was ever coded to the car when replaced. You now have a dodgy alternator ( as a result?) and that may (in caps) be affecting the correct operation of many of your electrical systems. On the one hand, you may find fitting a branded new battery fitted to the car and getting it coded, along with rechecking the alternator consistent output, and all will be well - but no guarantee that it will. I will however be more confident in claiming that if you don’t to that, you are more likely not to fix it if you get anything else checked and worked on. Kind regards, Gareth.

If available.

Any answer for Stephen, Richard?

Video doesn’t work for me Brett. Colour of the smoke? Does it use any coolant or oil?

Welcome Alan, A family member has had favourable experience with Pirelli Scorpion Verde ( all season) on a 4x4 non- Audi. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Tim. Never did hear anymore from our Oliver. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Jeremy, First thing to check is that you have 12 volts at the heater connection onto the rear screen. If you do, likelihood is that you have a damage-break in the actual screen heater element. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Shakir, Re. stop/ start. Do you want one with or without, this nasty, engineering averse system? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Emily, Opinions vary, and I would agree with Kev -P. Perhaps one important question to answer before moving forward in any (in caps) direction:- Can you confirm the Lion battery was the correct one for your car, and that it was coded to the car when first fitted? If not, it could toast the battery, and vice versa - the alternator - as the alternator treats the new battery - charge wise - as if it were the old defective battery. Replacing with Bosch? Yes, perhaps some years ago, but I now prefer Exide Premium, but of course it’s your choice. Kind regards, Gareth.

There are far more, and more competitively priced suppliers than ECP.