Magnet

We have very few ‘experts’ on here, and it’s certainly a major exaggeration to construe that ‘everyone (in caps) on here is an expert. Having said that, I think it’s been common knowledge for decades, that service-before-sale equates only to an oil and filter change - nothing revolutionary there. Advice has always been - treat it as if it had never taken place - and you won’t go far wrong. Anyway Dave, thank you once again for pointing this out. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Ian, Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Suggest using the phone to talk with them at P in M Raymond. Kind regards, Gareth.

No, Dave not the same ( or better). Just think about it - what you have said is that it has been ‘Solved’ , but you’re not attributing that solution to Steve’s experience and kind response, so please just mark his solution post as ‘Liked’ - it is what should automatically follow and shows your appreciation. Didn’t think we would need to ask, but…. Thank you.

Many thanks Steve, Probably pessimistic, but be prepared that they will check the history and see your complaint has been disputed by the supplying dealer. Fore warned …. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Dave, We thank you for your opinion and experience.

Hello Terry, Thanks for joining and posting your advert, and commiserations on losing your Dad. Could you please add your asking price to the advert. Kind regards, Gareth.

Mark Steve’s response as Liked then Dave.

Thanks Raymond, Perhaps you would comeback to us once you have a price from P in M , and let us know how it compares with the same brand from other suppliers - also bear in mind that Autodoc charge you £8 odd? delivery, unless things have changed. Would also be worth checking P in M price for the same part on their EBay listings - maybe cheaper than buying direct. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dave, We take the ‘they’ of ‘they said it was serviced..’ wasn’t a main dealer, but was a secondhand car sales operation -? If it’s accepted that ‘we will service it before collection..’ really equates to an oil and filter service using the cheapest of materials it won’t disappoint. At least, in your case, they only claimed to change the oil and filter, rather than a full service. Is this a diesel by the way? If so, the colour of the removed oil could be considered normal after 3000 miles. Perhaps you could come back to us and colour in the detail Dave. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Raymond, and thanks for joining. Where are you searching? - possibly Autodoc or similar by mention of Ridex? ECP? It could be me, but I find their prices are seldom competitive, and very often, simply daftly high. I would suggest Bosch. Would probably be worthwhile searching Parts in Motion website. I don’t have any connection, except having benefited from very reasonable prices and a great service from them. Please let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John, Do you have an answer for the forum yet?

Happy New Year to you John. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mark, Just measure the outside diameter of the (plastic?) pipe that fits into your rubber pipe -assuming it’s the rubber pipe you wish to replace. You will find a multitude of sellers on EBay. Observation:- the rubber pipe/s maybe a main dealer part only, due to the tight curvature. Kind regards, Gareth.

So what was the result of the Halford’s test on your battery then John?

Hello Mark, Wondered how you are progressing with this problem -? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Surinder, Appreciate your quest, but why? If I owned a luxury Audi such as yours, no one, but no one would be allowed to drink anything when in it!

Hello Ian, I’ve not used Lanoguard, but have used Waxoyl. The only downside I read of with Lanoguard is that because it comprises of lanolin, the little critters and their bigger relations can have an appetite for it - and any wiring etc that gets covered with it. As well as Lanoguard, it would be worth looking at similar products by Dinitrol and Bilt Hamer ( spelling?) pbefore deciding which suits you best. Re. aluminium and corrosion - it does indeed corrode to white powder. Also it causes differential corrosion between any steel components it contacts. Perhaps you would let us know what you decide to use Ian. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks again Bernard, Personally, I keep any pressure washer under lock and key and well away from any vehicle. Some may say old fashioned, but I maintain ‘ look what it does to your patio’! Still, each to his own, but if anyone has seen what I’ve seen them do to cause lacquer ‘clouding’ very quickly on very expensive cars, they may think about returning to a hose, bucket and sponge. Snow foam?? - don’t know, in preference to Autoglym shampoo. Use of any alloy wheel cleaner blasted on with a pressure washer? Can play havoc with corrosion on brake and suspension components, but… Ceramic coating? Never done any subsequent bodywork on vehicles which have been ceramic coated, but I understand it can cause difficulty in getting a good surface key with subsequent over painting, but again …? Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Bernard. That additional detail is enlightening. My observations based on that, are now as follows:- The car has covered an above average mileage over its 6 months ownership, and will have inevitably suffered from stone chip damage. Appreciating the car has been cleaned often enough with quality cleaning products, but could you let us know what your cleaning procedure is please. It’s probably me, but I’m still having difficulty in orientating the first two photos in your most recent post, and think ( assumptions are dangerous!) that the area you are showing might be the lower front bumper -? If it’s the paint chipping on this area, then I would consider this to be stone chip damage and not paint peeling, but I don’t have access to the car to be able to confirm that. Saying it as I see it Bernard - and with no offence intended - you seem to be overly concerned about the chip on the forward edge of the rear wing. This must be ‘damage’ ( how/where/when?) and I would seriously expect Audi would reject responsibility for that. The cill and its texture? now this would be very much the top of my concern list - assuming the photo is representative of reality. I would be wanting to check door gaps, door to cill gaps etc. since this could ( in caps) be associated with earlier accident damage. Repeating:- if it were mine, I would be getting a reputable bodyshop to assess the overall paintwork, before presenting this to Audi. Perhaps you could come back to us on your cleaning procedure, and then let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Calum, I wouldn’t think about it, but just do it. Perhaps you can let us know how you get on.

Welcome Calum. Worth checking for broken wires in the flexible harness section between A post and door, before getting into anything else. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Bernard, Would you please be able to respond to the questions in my post? Sorry to repeat, but personally, I would be concerned with the appearance of the cill, and the possibility of the car having been damaged and repaired in that area.

Many thanks Matt, We can only attempt to post fact on here, and phrases such as ‘pretty sure’ should be avoided, since members requesting help depend on factual information, or inclusion of caveats such as ‘please confirm’ etc. Apologies for being pedantic, but the fact that you have never been asked to code ( or whatever term you wish to call it) it….. isn’t really proof positive that it doesn’t need to be carried out. That equates only to either/both yourself or the customer not appreciating that it should be carried out. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Dean, and thanks for joining. I’ve seen 200Nm + 180 degrees quoted, but you would be wise to check that that figure is correct. The best source of information would be Autodata, but you would need to find a friendly garage who would look it up for you. Perhaps you would let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.