Magnet

Very little is still the way it was Ian. The OP joined and posted on the same day, and has not been heard of since! Yet another example of Post and Run.

Hello Harv, Many thanks for thanking the forum for the comments made. It doesn’t always happen. Anyway, back to the matter in hand:- Let’s say it’s less common for a main dealer to retail a 6 year old car, but it is what it is. Have you checked the dealer price against say, Parker’s Guide values to ensure the price isn’t inflated. It might be well worth comparing with some of the other 230 Frank mentions. Number of owners:- Most have been owned by the Service Manager or someone very close to them! Buyers have to like salt - if you see what I mean! The fact from the service print-out:- Change of owner on 29/7/19 , and most worrying (in caps) on 26 June of this year. They will probably inform you that the MPC on that date was carried out prior to putting on the forecourt where you have seen it, but how do you know that it isn’t a vehicle which has been rejected under the 30 day return policy. Be assured, that you will be assured that that isn’t the story! Service history:- Some artistic licence there - oil service (minor service) at 17K; no service again in the next 23k - and again only a minor oil service then; next at 50k, then recent. - all marked as oil services. My take would be, that it has a partial history of oil changes. Disappearing reference to discs/pads and bushes? Possibly a try-on with the previous owner, but inspection of the front brake discs should reveal whether they have been renewed in the recent past. Brakes heating up, to the extent of hearing contraction of metal noises, points to issues - as mentioned - unless your test driving included a tendency on your part to leave braking until the last moment before standing on them. Last bit to consider:- 4 wheel drive tyres should have near matching tread on both axles, so new on front and not much tread on back isn’t good news. Make of tyres they have fitted to the front? Well Harv, that is a bit of warts and all assessment, but should allow you to stand back, do your homework, believe or disbelieve the answers given, and simply give it a good couple of coats of thinking about. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Luke, To save us repeating, where have you searched so far?

Welcome Harv, and thanks for joining. Can we take it this 6 year old vehicle isn’t being sold by an Audi main dealer? If it is, this would be slightly unusual due to age. Apologies for the questions. Was the latest MOT ( how recent?) done at the same MOT station as last year, where the advisories were listed? Have you actually seen evidence of the computerised ‘full service history”? It is surprising how this can be claimed to exist, but disappears into the ether when sight of it is asked for. How many main dealer services has it had, and at what mileages? Does that record point to new discs and pads being fitted after last year’s MOT, along with the bushes? How many owners has it had, and how long has the last owner owned it? Short term ownership triggers suspicion. Lastly, is the tyre brand the same on all four wheels? But more importantly, is the remaining tyre thread fairly well matched on all four wheels? Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Clicking sounds from wheel area :- are you sure it is from the wheels and not associated with exhaust pipes - which would not be unusual? Such cooling-down noises from brakes would however be unusual, and might point to sticky calipers or similar.

Thanks Jim, Audi/VW specialists:- one would assume that they would only use dealer parts, but an assumption it has to be. At the opposite end of the scale, they could use ‘cheapest deal from their favourite motor factor’. Some main dealers used to have ‘discounted offers’ on such things a cambelt changes on older vehicles. Now?? In some cases it was cheaper to get it done at the main dealer, than at an independent. Beware, the dealer may well now tell you it doesn’t need changing until c125K miles ( without any time limit). Please let us know if we can advise you further, once you have done the basic homework. Kind regards, Gareth.

I think you are absolutely right on safer option Cliff. Sad to say, as far as water pumps are concerned, I pay the penalty of high dealer prices for peace of mind. If only we knew who were the OEM manufacturers! -? Kind regards, Gareth.

Worth trying Parts in Motion for competitive prices if you do ( no connection), except bought Brembo parts off them for a non-Audi. Kind regards, Gareth.

Perhaps it went a bit like this with not changing the water pump on this particular vehicle Cliff:- It had only done 25k miles, and if it were mine, I wouldn’t have changed it in this case, solely based on experiencing the affects of fitting some aftermarket pumps which prove to be troublesome in a short space of time. In fact, by the same logic, I wouldn’t be in a rush to automatically change a 47K pump, but I too would want to inspect it. A new pump would have to be VAG only for me (in caps). I’ve also been disappointed with the bearing quality on some hitherto respectable branded tensioners - rough as a badger’s whatsit. I note that that particular ‘manufacturer’ is now marketing full timing belt kits under their own brand name, so it becomes choose wisely, and for me ( again in caps) VAG pump only. Kind regards, Gareth.

Without meaning to be patronising Neil, it’s always good to note when a poster acknowledges help given by another member - regrettably rare - so really pleased Dave has been able to help. Re. No handbook. Worth having a look on EBay. You should find one there, and they are a useful thing to have. Good luck with sorting it all out. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Alan, Have read the numerous posts on here about air con. pressure sensors? Let us know what you think once you have. Kind regards, Gareth.

Who carried out this work Jim? Some aftermarket water pumps -and tensioners are not as good as they could be. As you say:- long time since 2017 ( even though relatively low mileage since). According to VAG’s previously sound logic, it should have been changed again in 2022. Now they daftly don’t stipulate a time limit, so could be a ticking time bomb to destroyed engine. I would be getting it inspected - changed?- if it were mine. Perhaps you could let us know what you think Jim. Kind regards, Gareth.

Could you please let the forum know if you resolved this Sean -? Thanks.

Now warned for Post-and-Run tactics. Any future posts will need to be sanctioned. Moderator.

I’ve now ‘Unmarked’ the Solve until Mark kindly let’s us know what he did to solve the issue. Come on Mark.

So are you going to carryout the test I suggested Daniel?

Hello Jim, Just wondering since you have re visited the forum, and we take it, read the responses so far, whether you have any comments. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks, That’s an incredible drain time - pull of at least 7 amps! Not a parasitic drain, but more a monster eating your battery capacity! If it were mine:- I would recharge the battery and safely disconnect the plug on to the alternator before reconnecting the battery. Allow to ‘stand’ overnight, and test battery condition again. Check make of battery. Report back on outcome.

Welcome Jim and thanks for joining, Apologies for hijacking Cliff’s responses , but I would be very wary of it being associated with a timing belt issue - tensioner maybe - although I confess I haven’t listened to it- hearing is shot. When was the timing belt assembly and water pump last renewed? If you don’t know, then I would be treating this investigation with the utmost urgency. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Daniel, Clifford has asked if you had the new battery coded to the car. Could you let him have an answer please. In addition, 14v is marginally low - would prefer 14.5 ish - but that should not account for the battery drain in isolation, but just could ( in caps) perhaps point to a partial drain through the alternator itself. If you fully charge the battery and leave it connected, how long does it take to get to a point where you know it’s low enough not to be able to start the car? What make of new battery did you buy as a matter of interest? Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Dave, Shame the OP Chris never bothered to clarify his situation.

Many thanks Mark, Did you sort it be renewing the defective parts of the filter housing?

Thanks Neil, Sounds good reason. Let’s hope someone on here has come up with a reasonably priced solution, since I fear Audi will damage your wallet. I still wonder ‘how far out’ the 2012 version will be in practice. I guess it will be resorting to phone in holder attached to the screen otherwise. Kind regards, Gareth.

You know Cliff, it starts on the first press of the starter button - who claims press button starters are new and ‘posh’? It ticks over like the proverbial watch, and does what is asked of it, without any complications of ECUs, remote locking, electric everything, and many other things that you don’t need and hope won’t go wrong!

Possibly the water you can hear when you press the rear washer button is soaking the motor and associated bits. Have you had the panel off to check?

Ok Ricky, It seems you a must be posting on/looking at other forums, and you’ve still got your knickers in a twist. Just treat it one step at a time:- Get a proper compression test carried out then report back. Don’t bother finding the reason for varying compression pressures until you have established that there are variations. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. I didn’t want to spell it out, since I didn’t feel I would need to, but the purpose of directing you to the ‘ Please react to help and advice….’ was that when you had read it, you might see it fit to carryout what it suggests - acknowledge the help you are being given. Instead, you ‘Like’ the tread, but don’t bother to act on it! Good isn’t it?