Magnet

Being realistic, it’s probably reasonable to assume the battery is not the cause of some of the problems, since the stop start works OK. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks for coming back Rob. Re. the battery:- Varta was (still is?) the original equipment supplier to VAG, so it’s likely to be the original. Voltage checking with a multimeter? - really of little use in assessing the battery’s capability of withstanding the high loads it can be subjected to. The test equipment must be sophisticated enough to test the parameters that are monitored by the Battery Condition Monitor. If the stop/start is still functioning correctly ( you don’t tell us) then it’s likely the battery efficiency is adequate. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Robert, but have you (in caps) searched the on line factors, such as Car Parts in Motion, Euro car Parts, Car Parts for Less - and the list goes on? Again have you searched EBay? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Rob, Many thanks for joining, and sorry to hear of your disappointing issues. It probably goes without saying that the supplying dealer has to rectify all these faults, or you have an option to reject the vehicle, and if it were mine, I would be writing (e-Mail will do) to the dealer principal, and outlining the faults you wish them to rectify. I’m not sure if this will help or not, but if the battery is known to be substandard ( and it could be, even after only 3 years) then certain systems can fail to work - or highlight problems. One possible assessment of that would be to ask you if the stop/start works - does it? This is one of the first systems not to operate under suspect battery condition. Perhaps you can keep us up to date on how you get on Rob. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Robert, We take it you have tried all the on-line factors that are the usual starting point for part searches -? Also EBay listings-? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, Sorry if this comes over as unhelpful, but to be constructive, the shortest route to freedom from worry about this, is to phone the garage and arrange to return the car for inspection at the earliest opportunity. This will result in a much quicker resolution than us guessing on here. I’m sure you will appreciate that it’s virtually impossible to diagnose such noises without access to the vehicle. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Sam, Get both front wheels removed and the tyres thoroughly inspected by a tyre retailer. Original tyres? If so, they are likely to be getting near the end of their useful life. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on with this as well. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Jon, that’s great. Could you come back to us with the outcome. To Steve Y. Apologies Steve, but did you refer to Mann possibly not now being what they were, or was it Bosch - or indeed both? Kind regards, Gareth.

Just add the cost of recovery to the bill. Personally, I wouldn’t bother phoning the offending garage - just e-Mail them with your intention, but list what what you find wrong, including the brakes. Obviously keep all receipts for your paid work, and parts purchased.

Sorry Anthony, but I wrongly assumed the car was still with them. I appreciate your brother’s advice, but if it were mine, I would keep the car well away from them ( for your own safety). I wouldn’t be having anything to do with them. Obviously your choice , but do you really want to run the risk of them messing this up twice? I know I wouldn’t put my life in their hands - that would be foolish. If it were mine, I would get it to a trusted local independent, and get them to repair the damage caused, then reclaim the outlay from the garage. Write to them and tell them what you intend to do. If they don’t pay then simply take them to the Small Claims Court. Kind regards, Gareth.

This sounds better Victoria, and no doubt you now have some peace of mind in knowledge that the car will be repaired by an Audi Approved body shop ( if it were mine, I would be checking with Audi that the bodyshop is indeed approved, rather than simply accepting the insurer’s statement). Apologies for throwing in some not so good news: - expect your insurance premiums to increase at renewal, even though this will be classed as a ‘no fault’ accident, and your excesses will be reimbursed. Yes, I know it’s unfair, and you are likely be penalised even though it’s not your fault. Be prepared for the bad news, and hope for the best. Good luck in getting the car back to it’s pre-accident condition. Perhaps you can let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Anthony, I don’t know if I’m now getting a clearer picture, but I just wonder if they have ‘destroyed’ the track rods themselves by trying to turn them, and the ‘plastic’ you refer to may be the rubber boots on the steering rack. Replacement rack required?? Whatever, they seem to have done some damage!Another possibility is that there might be a steering angle sensor arrangement, but it’s all guesswork. Can’t you ask them to put the car on a ramp and take a photo, so we can see what you are referring to? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Anthony, It really sounds as if your first move is to formally inform them that you will be taking them to the small claims court unless they return your car to you in the condition in which it was left with them. Put a time limit of say 2 weeks on this. You will need to do that in writing or by e-Mail. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hell Anthony, I think the first way forward is to post a photo of the damaged component/ area? What have they damaged that makes it undriveable, and where is the car now? Kind regards, Gareth.

Now back. ’I have been referred by the insurers Auxillus ( your insurer, or the offending party’s insurer?) - all important question, so can you clarify please. Recommended repairer not ‘Audi approved’….. As well as answering the above question, I would suggest you contact you supplying dealer and get details of their recommended repairer, so you have that piece of homework covered in advance. Any finance/PCP interesting the car? Perhaps you can come back to us Victoria. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Victoria, Sorry to hear of your misfortune, and I think you are wise to seek advice. I should point out that my advice may not be comprehensive or indeed the best route, but this what I feel I would do if I was in your situation:- This doesn’t seem to me to be minor damage that can be sorted with the offending party paying you to get it repaired without involving insurance companies - so I feel you are into potentially dodgy territory. Apologies Victoria - just having visitors arriving for lunch, so could I come back to you in a couple of hours or so? Kind regards, Gareth.

Great observation Jon. My initial thought is:- should there have been a rubber seal ring in the box with the filter? Someone been there before you with this particular filter? If this were mine:- Talk with Bosch Technical and get their view via. the same photo. I seem to recall it being mentioned ( by Steve Y?) that things may be changing with trusted brands such as Mann? - or indeed was it Bosch as well? Excuse my ‘improving forgetory’! So could this be a cost saving ploy, and we might be told it doesn’t matter? I guess there isn’t any chance of getting the brand the independent used - ? I think it’s over to Bosch Technical. Perhaps you could let us know what develops Jon, and many thanks for airing this. Kind regards, Gareth.

Who are you asking Ben? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Sam, We actually do have a sense of humour, but… Anyway:- You tell us it doesn’t use any coolant. Definitely? Tested over what period of time, and how monitored? How long have you had the car, and when did this excessive smoke start? Any association with refuelling at some point? This is the test I suggest you do:- Choose a dry day, and take the car on at least a 10 mile run. Immediately on return, and without switching off, get an assistant to rev. the car to a steady 2000rpm and hold it there for two minutes, while you observe the degree of white smoke being emitted from the exhaust. Report back. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Sam. Petrol or diesel? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello whoever you are. Before anyone can comment, could you please take a little time and fill in your profile, and let us know whether you have a petrol or diesel engined car. At the moment, you hold the record for the most incomplete profile! Many thanks, Gareth.

Hello folks, The driver seat base has sagged (at rear) to an uncomfortable extent after 16 years and 168K miles, and I now need to attend to it. As I understand it, there isn’t any springing or webbing, but simply a (firm) moulded sponge platform, which obviously gets less firm and supportive over years of use! I wondered if this was a common issue through the model range, and whether someone might have been-there-rectified the problem. I think Audi supply the moulded foam base for around £120, which doesn’t sound too frightening in comparison with some of their pricing, but thought it worth an ask whether anyone had simply reworked the original to good effect with additional foam, before I go ahead and order a new one. Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Matt, Thanks for coming back, but I’m still unsure where your confusion arises from. There are a range of aftermarket suppliers - inc. KYB, Monroe etc. etc. and if you search EBay, then you should come up with some choices, and you can then confirm suitability with the seller. Thimble! -as our little friends would say. You can try putting your registration number into suppliers such as Car Parts in Motion, ( my favourite at the moment) Euro Car Parts, and their sister company Car Parts for Less etc.etc. It’s all just a question of doing a bit of homework Matt. Incase it helps:- I’ve looked at my KYB catalogue for you, and come up with possibles of 341003 for gas, or 441022 for oil, but you would need to double check these. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. No, I don’t have an 80. Kind regards, Gareth.

Take it you’ve tried EBay George? Also online breaker link sites such as Partsfinder. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stijn, Thanks for joining. The original poster hasn’t been back to the forum since February, so it would probably be best to send him a PM. You will probably find there are vent flaps near the bottom of the rear quarter panels and these could be the issue, but of course it depends how high up the water is starting. I don’t think there is much way around this other than to remove the inside trim panels to source the leak. Perhaps you could come back to us with whatever you gather. Kind regards, Gareth.