Magnet

Try LLL Parts website Russell. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

You can send a Personal Message the original poster Roni. Hopefully he will reply, and you can then let us know. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Dean, and thanks for joining. Has this just happened, or have you only just bought the car? Sounds as if it may have had a new window winder mechanism fitted. Some of the cheap ones may give rise to this misalignment. Any garage or bodyshop should be able to look at this. Perhaps you could come back to us. Kind regards, Gareth. P

Welcome Edward. Any TT owners able to throw some light on this for Edward? Many thanks, Gareth.

Many thanks Angela, So the objective is not to continue using and enjoying the car with its oil leak (incidentally I cannot see any evidence of a stain in the photo I’m looking at), but to get this oil leak permanently eliminated. Is this correct - as an objective? As has been pointed out, the offending seal costs comparative peanuts, but the labour to renew it is going to cost you £1000s of pounds - if you can find anyone interested in actually doing it! Add to that, the likelihood that it will leak again within say a couple of years is relatively high - as again explained. I may be coming over as being pedantic ( but I’m otherwise struggling to help), but could you place a small container under the leak site and send us a photo of what you collect over a set period of standing time. It maybe significant, but I still don’t know. Saying it as I see it, you do seem hell bent on fixing this leak, rather than living with it in comparative slightly-inconvenienced harmony, and if you have many thousands of £s to throw at it, and can find someone who will agree with your logic on the economics, in appreciation that it is more likely to be a temporary fix, then who has right to contradict what you want to do? Who would buy it as it is? Really don’t know until, you quantify the extent of the leak. Sorry about this Angela but I think anyone trying to follow this thread is likely to be in the dark about how bad this leak really is. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for the comments Daniel - technical and personal. I’m glad you now have it sorted, and sorry to hear advice on here has been fruitless. I take it you are therefore unlikely to return, so in case that’s right, I wish you luck with getting any future issues sorted. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Any particular reason for signing in with a new user name!

Thanks Angela, Apologies but I’m a little lost with this - I think! So is the cam cover gasket still leaking. You suggest it is. ‘Leak about the size of inside hand’? Can we keep this simple and direct? Are there drips, or just an oil stain. If we revert to ‘….inside of hand’ are you describing an amount of oil that can be collected in the cupped palm of your hand? If so, over what period? ‘Thinking of getting this fixed’. I’m certainly echoing what you appear to have been told/read elsewhere, and what Cliff points out:- it’s likely the freedom from a leak at this point after repair will be short lived, since at that mileage the crankshaft bearings - and particularly the thrust bearings will be showing wear and the shaft will then be putting a significantly increased ‘load’ on this new seal. Sorry Angela, it could be me, but the description of severity and extent of this leak leaves me still uncertain of how bad it actually is, and whether if you don’t overly mind a bit of stain on the drive, and are prepared to get the engine cleaned pre MOT, is there a significant issue with this well used car? Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Angela and thanks for joining. Sorry to hear of your plight. The important piece of missing information is - how severe is this leak, and what inconvenience is it actually causing you, that makes it difficult to live with? If it’s the rear crankshaft seal then it’s either gearbox (automatic?) out, or engine out to fix this. Is the leak bad enough to result in an MOT failure, or has it been previously listed as an Advisory? If you can live with it between MOTs, then you could consider getting the offending area cleaned just prior to MOT and hope you get away with it - which you may well do, unless it’s a drip. There are so called ‘Stop Leak’ products on the market, which you add to the engine oil. Personally, I don’t favour them since they effectively ‘attack’ the rubber of the seal, and will affect other engine seals. I suppose it all boils down to:- Severity of leak? When MOT due? How long do you intend to keep it? I think you already appreciate that fixing it would be an uneconomical process with a car of this age, unless it is a low mileage/ superb in all other respects - example. Perhaps you could colour in the detail and let us have your thoughts Angela. Kind regards, Gareth.

Understand Johnny, I favour Febi, and tend to buy ( mail order) from Parts in Motion at Exeter. Worth trying their website, but they frequently list on EBay as well, so you could also check there. There will be other EBay sellers you can then compare prices with. Kind regards, Gareth.

Bit late now Jonathan, but I believe your hub also contains the built-in sender for the ABS sensor to sense - hence likely to need to renew the hub (and bearing) before the bearing wears out. As I understood it (well with my earlier one) the difference in price between a new hub with bearing was not that much more than buying a bearing. What make did you go with after and where did you buy it? Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Jonathan, Can we take it you are renewing the hub assembly rather than putting a new bearing in the existing hub? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Pete, but we don’t do ‘Offers’ on here, since it just results in you and forum members being messed around, so an answer to Cliff’s question will be necessary. Perhaps you can attend to that for us. Thanks and kind regards, Gareth.

You know it makes sense - as Dell Boy used to say!

Have you registered you ‘want’ with on-line breaker link sites such as Partsfinder? There are more. Kind regards, Gareth.

If you cannot alter your profile name, then please at least respond to let s know so, and we will ask Admin to do it for you. Some response from you since posting on 27th Aug. would reasonably be expected.

I think the days of the same caters-for-all-extras wiring loom being fitted to all vehicles has long gone. Most likely the harness is built to only cater for the equipment listed on that specification. I think you are wise to leave any ‘additions’ to a specialist, unless you are fully experienced with such things. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Dave, We are currently waiting for the OP to return to the forum to view any of the suggestions and questions asked, after asking for help.

It will end up a mess with touch up, and just devalue to car. The small amount extra for an aerosol will be a must. Obviously spray them before fitting.

Thanks Gordon. Do you need to actually remove the rear bumper to get at the sensor? I did on our A3 since access would have been otherwise very difficult. Be prepared for a tussle with removing the electrical connector - well it was a headache on mine. Getting the sensor out of the bumper was less so. You going to spray yours before fitting? Front, and arch removal? Don’t know, you will just have to lay on your back and see what you can see, and get at. Would guess you would get away with arch liner removal, but….? Please let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for joining Gordon. Right means when viewed from the rear - as RHD for example. Sensors:- I guess you know Audi will extract north of £110 from your wallet for one sensor. I bought a replacement off EBay a year or so back, and it even had the Audi part number ‘cast’ into it - less than £20. Initially fine, but doesn’t like wet weather! Time over again:- would pay a bit extra for a Valeo one. Any better in the long run?? Let us know how you get on Gordon.. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Colin, and thanks for joining. As far as I’m aware, a weld repair on a subframe will lead to an MOT failure, so in essence, the answer is no, you cannot weld your rusty one. Even if my take on it is not absolutely correct, I would have thought you would be taking a chance on a failure having done all the work necessary to get to that welding stage. Alternatives:- List your ‘want’ on the on-line breaker link sites such as Partsfinder - there are others. Look up a site called IM Axles ( I think that is what they are called). They do new sub frames for more modern cars. For your model?? - but worth an ask. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

To save us repeating where you have tried, where have you looked so far William?

Welcome Robi, and thanks for joining. Did the alignment people thoroughly check all aspects of the suspension and steering before making their adjustments, or did they simply stick it on the machine? When did this wobble occur? - have you had any new tyres on the car before it started? Any time tie up with having new discs and pads fitted? Are the tyre treads reasonably evenly matched on all four wheels, and are the brands matching - at least on the same axle? Kind regards, Gareth.

Wondered when you are thinking about sharing your name with us Mr. G ?

Any answers for us Oliver?