Magnet

Thanks Michael. Let us know how you get on with P in M quotes. Should I mention you may need the dual mass flywheel as well! Just let us know if we can help further. Well worth contacting LUK Technical if you have any ambiguities. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks, so the appropriate fuse was in tack then -? If so, I would suspect a break in the elements. Have you got a multi meter to test it for continuity? Kind regards, Gareth.

Oh blinking heck Michael - hope it was super cheap, and you like work. First double check it is the internal type. Pretty sure it is but… Why ECP, particularly since they no longer offer discounts on so called retail prices. Didn’t buy much before, since even with the high discounts, they seldom worked out cheaper than alternative suppliers? If it is internal, then it’s obviously gearbox out, and it would be daft not to replace the other clutch components while it’s out. The only make of clutch I would fit would be LUK. Try inputting your reg. no. into Parts in Motion website - down in Exeter. They are usually competitive. Perhaps you can let us know how you get on Michael. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Alan, but surely it’s not your responsibility to fix or diagnose. Did the car go to the garage with the warning light illuminated? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Cliff, but there is no need for Dan to apologise. I guess it’s what we can expect to top it off when we sit here being a rapid and free source of advice. My turn to apologise to you Dan- I won’t be offering any further comments on your posts. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Michael and thanks for joining. My stab at it is it is most likely to be inside the bell housing. This is going to cost many hundred of pounds to fix if I’m right. Did you buy it from a trader? Did you buy it knowing it had or had had this issue? If bought privately, how was the advert worded? Perhaps you could come back to us Micheal. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thought that was the clear enough suggestion Dan, but if you want a positive answer to your yeah? - it’s yes.

Hello Paul, Fuses blow to protect the wiring if the is a short circuit in the wiring. They just don’t blow without there being a fault. Can we take it you have a handbook for the car, and you have checked for fuse locations in there? Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Graham, and thanks for joining. There have been many posts on various models on the subject of replacing the goo and compressor with an actual spare wheel. It would be well worth doing a forum search on the subject. Kind regards, Gareth.

Good luck with finding it an appreciative home Lloyd. Please let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

I think the answer is quite clear Dan.

Twice a year Cliff! It puts me in mind of a late friend of mine who was telephoned by another friend of his. His wife said ‘he’s having a bath’ to which the retort was ‘Is it that time of year already!? We are all different, but I wouldn’t put a pressure washer near paintwork - even only twice a year. If you see how it cleans your patio, you will know why - with or without chemicals. Really bad news in my book. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Dan, A school of thought to consider:- Renewing the ABS sensor is fine. ( what brand did you use?) The sensor is just that, it senses the signal from the wheel hub. I believe the sender (which the sensor receives it signal from) is integral with the hub, and it maybe this sender is at fault - and not the sensor. If that is the case, then a replacement hub will be needed. Febi hubs have been used to good effect. Perhaps you could keep us updated on developments. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Rigo, Judging by what you have already done, it just leaves the next stage of !Removed! in an oil pressure gauge and physically reading the running oil pressure following a 10 mile run to ensure the oil is up to operating temperature. Hold revs. steady at around 2000rpm and read the pressure. I don’t think - but certainly don’t know for definite - whether the running oil pressure reading can be seen digitally via. diagnostics. Worth researching that first. Let us know how you get on Rigo. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. The ‘removed’ bit is to thread ( alternative word ) in ….

Yes.

Welcome, and where are you from Eve - large country the U.K.

Well why not the free elimination of the battery first?

The maths are:- Calculate 45% of 245mm and double it. Add 18 inches converted to mm - 18 x 25.4. . That will give you the rolling dia. of your current wheel and tyre size. Calculate 55% of 225 mm and double it. Add 17 inches converted to mm. That will give you the rolling dia. of the set up you wish to move to. As Steve says re comparing those diameters. Have you worked it out yet!! Too late in the day for me. As said, let the comparison sites do the maths for you. Couple of points:- Don’t assume ( if you are) that smaller diameter tyres will be cheaper. Prices depend on volume popularity. Again as said, smaller wheels and larger profile tyres = softer ride than large wheels and skinny profiles. Lower profiles ( as you currently have) = better roadholding - if that is important to you. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. I expect to come back early in the morning when you have worked it out Christian! Only joking.

Thanks again Kevin. Do a search on EBay under ‘classic Cars’, and I think you should come up with a ball park figure. Of course, don’t expect to find an example which completely matches yours, but…. Worth looking at ‘Competed items’ ( button selection will be bottom left on screen) under the same search. This will reinforce what has sold at what price, and what hasn’t sold. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Kind regards, Gareth.

Who marked this as being ‘Solved’ and why?

Hello Keith, Welcome, and thanks for joining. Straight from the school of eliminating the simple things first - if it were mine - I would be getting the battery efficiency checked, before delving further into more complex reasons. Halfords (shops) should be able to do this for you, and worth having the alternator output checked at the same time. Cars are now heavily dependent on monitored high efficiency batteries. Please come back to us with the test results, particularly if it is found to be substandard, since the forum should be able to offer advice on most cost effective replacement. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Christian, Welcome and thanks for joining. Unfortunately you aren’t giving us enough information to be able to make a considered opinion, so could you please let us know:- What size wheels and tyres are currently fitted to your A6? Is this wheel and tyre size combination listed ( on the inside of the fuel flap?) as being a recognised size for your model? Similar question in terms of the 17 inch wheels you want to fit-? Why do you want to make this change? We should be able to advise once you give us that information. Kind regards, Gareth.

As said, it’s not a job to entertain if you don’t have the right tools - as Jonathan’s experience demonstrates.

Glad you are getting it sorted Jonathan. Perhaps you can update us when it’s been done, and let’s hope your noises disappear. Are you having a new hub fitted, as opposed to fitting new bearings in your current hub? Hello Colwyn, Apologies for the contra opinion, but trying to remove this bolt with the hub knuckle off the car simply exaggerates the problem, since you then have to apply resistive forces to stop the knuckle moving about - sorry, doesn’t compute. I can’t say I’m a fan of applying heat either, but…. The answer is having the correct equipment to do the job - a high powered air operated impact wrench and a high quality appropriate ‘socket’. If you don’t have these, then things are likely to end up where Jonathan did ‘….sorry I started…’ Kind regards, Gareth. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks James, Checking if bonnet isn’t fully closed is always the first check if wipers are not working, but thanks for reinforcing that. Kind regards, Garetn h.