Magnet

Hello Michael, It’s always going to be difficult to diagnose the exact issue without inspecting the vehicle - which your garage is going to do today - and it could be any of the suggestions already made. Would you be kind enough to come back to us and update us of the outcome? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Jean, Um! Concerned when you first mentioned you thought they were Febi, since I’ve used Febi to good effect on our Audi, and non-Audi. Napa? Never felt the inclination to try them, but…… Kind regards, Gareth.

A short reposted suggestion:- I would get the car checked for a parasitic drain. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Jean, Was the link a genuine VAG part, or an aftermarket. If aftermarket - make? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Michael, Can you select some/all of the gears when the engine is switched off? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Gary, Yes, I know ‘……they alway will….’ - but that’s assuming Randip knows that as well - which of course he may, or may not.

Hello Randip, Incase it matters, lower profile tyres will result in a harsher ride. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Randip, Thanks for joining the forum and posting your question. What size wheels and tyres are on the car now? If you increase the wheel diameter to 20 inch, then you will, need to decrease the tyre profile so that the current rolling diameter is retained - its not simply a question of ‘looking OK’. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, Thanks for clarifying what you bought. No disrespects, and from someone who uses a surfeit of words, you beat me hands down every time! So you now have a quality battery fitted to this car which seldom gets used, lives outside, so it’s an inconvenient/impractical extension lead job to run your ‘trickle charger’. Sounds like a solar panel charger is the only practical way forward. Can they be used on AGM batteries?? Having gone through a quality Bosch battery in record time, I would be questioning whether this car is suffering from a parasitic drain. If this were mine, I would be investing in a half hour’s time with an autoelectrician to check this out. Kind regards, Gareth.

Just an opinion, but if I was in Adam’s situation, I would steer well clear of any naming and shaming while legal action is proceeding, so can we suggest we don’t ask Adam for any further comment on who this is. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, There’s been a lot of words, so please excuse me if I’ve got this wrong. So you’ve bought a battery from Tayna for £39.99? If so, I wish you luck Paul, since you are likely heading to replace it again in a relatively short space of time, as you did with the one ex breakdown. Once and wisely in my book, is better than once and cheaply. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Adam, I feel for you and the plight you have been placed in, and I join the band who feel this is an unreasonable commercial outcome. Just wondering what you next move is going to be. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andrew, As far as I’m aware, your 2016 model would not have had a Service Book, - all service records would/should have been logged on the Audi database - which you say you have printed record of. Wallet with handbook etc? It’s worth checking with the seller to see if it might still be with them. I guess the car is too old to have been retailed at a main dealer, so unlikely you can ‘claim’ this from them. £20+ off EBay sounds reasonable enough to me - now just over a couple of gallons of fuel - and a very minor additional outlay in terms of the anticipated price paid to buy the car. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Nev, Many thanks for ‘liking’ the response, but are you now able to colour your responses to the suggestions/questions raised? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Rich, ’….had 55% left (in battery)….’ probably means it was only 55% efficient compared to its original efficiency, rather than 55% ‘left’. A lot of battery efficiency testing meters can now be too basic for testing all (in caps) the parameters necessary to test to ensure the battery is fully up to the job it has to do, in this era of vehicles fitted with Battery Condition Monitors. We have to assume that they renewed the battery with an absolute like for like in respect of the battery that you know (in caps) was fitted to the car when new. It could be expected that they would have carried out the simple alternator output check - but possibly not. ’…only charging 10%…’ - apologies but I don’t understand that statement. The situation as I see it ( with the assumption that the replacement battery is the correct fitment and is itself serviceable and has been coded to the car):- The alternator output is below par-? and/or The car is suffering from a parasitic drain. I would want to (cheaply) eliminate both possibilities, before considering any other more expensive investigations and fitting of replacement parts. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Nik. Price? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Nev, Thanks for joining the forum and posting your query. No doubt you have tried the procedures listed on on-line searches. If not, they are worth a try, but I’ve failed with all of them. You mention you have recently bought the car - from a main dealer? - other retailer? If so, I would be first seeking assistance there, since it’s reasonable to expect that both fobs should be working, and if not, rectified at their expense. Car is 2019 - still just under warranty? Might be worth a try if so. All else fails, then it sounds like you will need the assistance of an independent to re-programme the fob. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Nev. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Rich, All these symptoms could be a classic case of battery issues, and we note that that was renewed ( make?) and it it reduce the problems for a little while. What I would ask is - was the alternator output also checked at the same time? If not, then it’s certainly worth a low cost testing elimination before moving on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks for the additional information Abhishek, and it sounds as if you have done everything correctly. Sachs and LUK are associated companies and well respected as suppliers of aftermarket clutch kits. You say the car has been mapped (quite considerably?) and your parts supplier confirmed the kit was correct, but I wonder if you confirmed fitment with LUK/Sachs Technical, and if not, it might now be worth checking that with them. What we don’t know is whether the clutch operation was similar to this before it was replaced, and how long you’ve owned it to gain the experience of what was wrong with it. My progressive step would be to first check with LUK, and take your actions based on the facts you gain there. Buying the parts yourself can be a worthwhile way of doing it ( and I do it) but the downside is that the fitter can dismiss any responsibility in terms of the correct parts. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Abhishek, We need input from forum members who have the same model year, but it doesn’t sound to be as it should be, to me. It sounds as if you have had the ‘full’ clutch kit fitted - using a good quality brand. A couple of points:- can we take it as read that the release bearing was changed -? I guess the car was originally fitted with a dual mass flywheel, and this was replaced like for like, rather than fitting a solid flywheel (if possible). Did you supply the kit, or was it supplied by the garage who fitted it? Bleeding? The presence of air in the system is likely to cause the pedal to feel slack and the biting point to be nearer the floor, so highly unlikely to be that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Werner, Sorry to hear that the necessary software was not installed prior to taking delivery, but at least you now know why it’s not working, and have an imminent date for it to be rectified, so there’s now some positive news which will hopefully sort it all out. Of course, the situation disappoints, but sorted it will be. My personal (non environmental!) view is that I would be clapping my hands that it isn’t working. The maximum stress and wear with an engine is on start up, so the less start ups the better. With either belts or chain driven camshafts, the load on the chain or belt will be increased at every start up. Just not for me, and my non-Audi has it fitted, and I have to re- isolate this ‘facility’ every time I switch off. A family member has a different model from the same manufacturer, and now finds that the chain needs to be replaced at less than 50k miles - a job that will cost £2,200 to sort, before the chain decides to jump a few teeth and wreck the engine to the tune of a >£11k bill for a replacement engine. That vehicle has run on SS throughout its 6 year life. Still, we are all different, and SS can be seen as either an additional ‘toy’ or a pain in the proverbial. You take your choice. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Corey, Is it still running with the remains of 4 year old fuel in it? Kind regards, Gareth.

So it’s a self assessment then.

Hello Tony, Thanks, but is this a self assessment check, or a physical check carried out by an independent body? Any connection? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mathew, ‘….always be another one…’ - I guess so. I would recommend you alway start by searching the free on-line MOT history checking, and the DVLA vehicle check before getting excited about any example. Also check the vehicle’s service history, which might mean contacting your local Audi dealer with details of the Reg. no. and/or the VIN. If you are then impressed enough to consider buying it, then I would certainly ‘invest’ in a professional inspection ( unless you feel you are completely confident in carrying that out) before putting a pen to any piece of paper, or getting a bank card out. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.