Magnet

Hello Ben, Wondering if the one you have will be the right one for my car. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Shaf. Apologies for stating the obvious, but you will now have to return the car to the garage for them to replace the spring with the correct one. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ben, Many thanks for responding. The car is humble, basic Sportback A3 (2006) where the tailgate does protrude a bit - I guess in spoiler form. Part number is BP4 945 097B. It’s the one which is held in by 4 white plastic arrow head shaped sprung fixings. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Austin, Many thanks for being in touch with the forum. I think you are asking the same question that was asked back in 2019. Having re -read the posts, all I can add is that I don’t really have anything else of note to now add! To me, my logic still holds, and to boil it down, yes, you can delay replacing this assembly and save some money. The substantial ( in caps) risk is that you increase the risk of catastrophic failure - to the tune of wrecking an engine. Can you justify such a risk? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello All, Please excuse the cynical viewpoint, but cutting to the chase, what is the point of investing wallet frightening sums in these hybrids ( mongrels?) to gain silly additional mileages under battery power, when you are likely to achieve the same increase in distance by freewheeling where possible over a tank full of fuel!? Someone mentioned the ‘range benefit’ achieved by turning the heating down! Wonderfully progressive. I have a couple of cars which are over 80 years old - obviously no heater - and I need to put on a suitable driving coat in cold weather - no problem. Perhaps these hybrids should be sold with optional extras of heavy clothing, and we can move up the progress ladder and order such useful extras rather than the smart S line bits and pieces. Thank goodness for our humble 16 year old A3! Apologies and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, I’m sure both of the posters on this thread will benefit from your advice on a good engine reconditioning facility, and hopefully the chances of an optimistic outcome by contending Audi’s unreasonable conditions. That would indeed be something to hang onto. For what it’s worth I share that sentiment, but I think it’s only fair to point out that any ‘fight’ with an international organisation is going to be costly, and realistically outside the scope of an average owner - however savvy they are. Yes contend the dictate, but be realistic in the chances of success - apologies, I appreciate this is coming over as pessimistic, but certainly tempered with a fair degree of realism, and certainly no disappointment after the legal costs have been paid. ‘Why would Audi conduct an oil consumption test .. if end result will be a firm no..’? I think Sam can answer that one by having to pay £280 for the test! Business is business, and they are not going to advise the owner not to get it done. Yes, what’s good enough for the U.K. is not acceptable to the US of A, but they fight an international organisation on at least a State basis, and not on an individual USA owner level. I genuinely hope for a reasonable outcome with both these cases, since liability exists, but I can only wish them well in their attempts, since I guess there isn’t any legal assistance on here that would help and support them with sound and reasoned argument. I still think the often-one-man- band classic car engine reconditioners might be a good fall back, which might allow a financially viable outcome. Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.

Michelin Crossclimate James? Not sure how these compare. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello both, Without appearing patronising, I do feel for you and sympathise that you involved yourselves with buying cars which fitted in with the period of subsequent issues. Sam - first cars do tug at heart strings, and indeed the thought of paying £10k for a c8 year old car - good or bad - would come with an expectation of something special. Sentimental attraction would however leave me with a feeling that it wasn’t really attractive at all, and best forgotten about. Apologies for rubbing it in, but personally, I feel you are likely to take a massive financial hit if you follow Jonathan’s suggested route of disposing with it. The reality of this situation is that even if Audi bend their 10 year limit, they are likely to argue that the car has little or no service history, and that you chose to procrastinate in bringing this complaint to their knowledge. Sorry, but plan for the worse and hope for the best. Would I spend a lot of money on legal advice in dealing with Audi in your case?? I honestly don’t thinking I would. Again apologies…. Alternatives :- bite the bullet and take a serious financial hit. Consider an outcome where Audi continue to say no. Would you/are you able to fund four figure sums to finance engine rebuilds? If yes, it would be worth getting estimates from a now-small group of engine rebuilders who undertake such work in the classic car field. Worth asking around the local classic car clubs for recommendations for reboring and fitting new pistons. Or keep buying 20 litre barrels of cheap oil and keep topping it up. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jonathan, No I haven’t heard of the 10 year limit before. To cut to the chase for both of you:- it could be challengeable, but the challenge is likely to be costly (uneconomically so?) Yes, I have already mentioned the consideration of getting rid of the car, and yes, the car buying sites would certainly be an option, but they (and the buyers at their follow on auctions) are highly likely to be aware of this issue and will value the car accordingly. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Sam, I think it’s fair to expect the oil consumption test will confirm there is an issue, so if this were me, I would now be commencing to set up my case. Let me go back to my yet unanswered question:- How long have you owned this car, and when were you first aware of its oil consumption issue? Who was the ‘they’ at your Audi dealer who informed you ‘…..less than 10 years…’? My feeling is that you are going to need some professional legal assistance if Audi’s argument continues ( which I believe it will). CAB may be able to advise, and would be a useful first port of call, but I feel you will need to tap into paid-for legal assistance. Questions you will now need to ask yourself:- If you fail ( or even partially fail, i.e. you have to make a not insubstantial contribution) do you think it will be a worthwhile expenditure to make to rectify the issue on your 10.5 year old car? Personally, I don’t think it is, but…. So what do you do? Just keep adding cheap oil? Part with the car and buy something else? Answers to these will be influenced by the answer to the question - when did you buy it, and how much funds you ‘invested’ in it, and when? I think that’s enough to think about for now Sam. Dealing with Audi:- polite is good and essential, but this needs to be coupled with a necessary degree of firmness and reasoned argument - and that’s where the professionals come in. Perhaps you could let the forum know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. What is the Audi service history like with the car? Although my argument about liability should not be influenced by a point in time, realistically, we are all subjected to such time limits with grantees, so….. Difference with this case? Was the owner (you) made aware of this constraint within the timespan of the liability period?

Hello Sabrina. Try Googling classic car trimmers in your area, and/or ask principals at local regional classic car clubs ( again Googleable). There should be experience at both of these. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

‘Special tool’ = dipstick?

Hello Dave. What does your handbook specify as the capacity for oil and filter change? Unless you know that, and exactly how much you put in, then neither dipstick nor digital reading will be meaningful. Kind regards, Gareth. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Ann, Your experience will probably be of benefit to others longer term. As a matter of interest, what make of battery did you buy as your replacement, and what was the make of the battery that you renewed after 2 year’s service? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dave, What was the exact quantity of the fresh oil you put in for your oil and filter change, so that that can be compared with the approx. 7 ltrs you think you drained out? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Sam, Thanks for being in touch and sorry to hear of your issue. Apologies for a contra opinion, but I certainly wouldn’t be adopting the approach suggest by Karl in his ‘expletives removed’ post. It will simply generate a tone of animosity, and whatever you think or shout about, they hold the key to the resolution. Diplomatic, factual firm and reasoned, would be my chosen approach. If you would like an opinion on the content of your reply, then I think it is essentially good, with the following ‘comments for you to think about’ :- Personally, I wouldn’t make any reference to being unable to afford the necessary repairs - that fact is not Audi’s fault, and the comment generally undermines your situation and standing. The key fact is that there is precedent here, which means that Audi has previously accepted they are at fault with this issue and have compensated owners - so they are blameworthy. I think you can reasonably maintain that fault and consequent liability does not cease at a certain point time, but ceases when there aren’t anymore cases where liability applies. I trust some of the above maybe of help, and wish you well for a favourable outcome. As an (important) aside - how long have you owned this car Sam, and when were you first aware of the undue (as opposed to excessive) oil consumption? If this is some period of time, then this may dilute your case, if it can be proved that you have procrastinated. Perhaps you could keep us informed on how things develop. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for coming back Jordon. Don’t ignore EBay as a competitive source of brands of the quality you choose. Yes, of course check CP in M.for their price for the chosen item. Talk to at least a couple of trusted local garages for prices. Radiator? Personally I would park this problem for the time being, and concentrate on the springs, and ask the garage who will do the springs, for their advice on whether the leak you have (how severe?) is indeed associated with the radiator or not, and move from there. Best policy- worry about one thing at at time! - and always do your homework before committing to get anything done. Good luck with it all. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dave, Many thanks for letting the forum know about this. As I see it, it could indeed be that the MMi is giving a false reading, or ( in caps) it could be the dipstick is. Not sure when you last changed your engine oil, but if this were mine,I would be draining the oil off, removing the filter , and refilling the engine to the exact quantity ( shown under Capacities in the handbook) for an oil and filter change. If you then start the engine and allow the filter to fill, switch off, and allow the car to stand for a good hour, you can then measure the level on the dipstick to see how it compares with the Full mark. This will give you the correct correlation between the digital and dipstick readings. Perhaps you could let us know when you have some detail on this. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jordon, I think your expectations for buying a new radiator and two front springs and then getting these parts fitted for a total cost of £300 is an ask too far. Parts costings:- Search EBay for a pair of the correct springs for your car. I would be cautious of buying at the cheapest price. Same search and comments for radiator. ( if indeed you do need to replace the radiator). Let’s just deal with the cost of the springs first - you will then know what the cost of the parts would be. Time to fit a pair of springs - possibly 2.5/3 hrs?? Labour rates in your area? - so you will need to find about, but I guess £45/hr (+ VAT?) would be reasonably cheap I suppose. You just need to do the maths then. Mention of bearings - probably refers to the possible need to renew the top suspension mounts which again you can price, and these shouldn’t add any additional labour charge. Perhaps you could let us know what you come up with Jordon. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. You could try Car Parts in Motion ( no connection) who seem to have reasonable brands (Febi etc.) at reasonable prices. I think Steve Y also mentioned them a month or so back, where he too mentioned them as worth a try. Generally better prices than those who offer big discounts off so called retail prices.

Hello Stephan, Thanks for being in touch. Obviously the larger the wheels, the lower the tyre profile ( height) must be, to retain the same outside diameter of wheel plus tyre. You also trade off a harsher ride by increasing the wheel diameter. Best answer to your question is to look in the correct owner’s handbook for the car, and see what wheel and tyre sizes are listed there as alternatives (under tyre pressures would be a good place to start). If you stick with the manufacturer’s specified alternative wheels and tyre sizes, then you should not have any issues with insurance implications. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, Many thanks for being in touch with the forum, and sorry to hear of your issues. If I’m reading this correctly, then you are saying that the engine is not turning over (cranking) when you attempt to start it. If so, then this is of course typical of battery issues i.e. flat/unserviceable battery. Have you had the battery tested? If not, then this obviously has to be the first port of call. If the battery proves to be unserviceable, then this would also account for spurious warning lights, and it is pointless carrying out any diagnostics unless you do so with a serviceable battery. Replacement batteries can of course be bought locally, but personally, I only buy 5 year warranty grade Varta/Bosch from specialist online suppliers such as Tayna, Battery Megastore etc. ( no connection ) where you can buy quality at very competitive prices. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Ian. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello again Jeffrey, Your logic is sound:- the larger the wheels, the lower the tyre profile will have be, and the harsher the ride. If the vehicle of interest has 19 inch and you want 18 inch:- if the vehicle meets your requirements in all other aspects - have you considered obtaining 18 inch and negotiating an adjusted price if possible? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jeffrey, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. If I’m reading your question correctly (and I’ve re-read it) - no, you cannot fit 18 inch tyres on 19 inch rims. Are you sure that’s what you are really asking? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, The logic of the end suffice letter does make sense, since the letter changes as the part gets modified for later models. In my experience, the modifications can be minor and the parts can sometimes be interchangeable. In your case, the suffix letter is all important since the electrical connections have been modified since your ‘B’ design. I know Audi has/do keep the same basic part numbers for cambelt kits, but change the end letter for different engines, so the suffix match is essential there. Possibly a daft question and of no significance, but if you did find one in say Germany, will it be identical in terms of our driver’s door being their passenger door? Guess yes, but worth an ask. I too would have registered my want with as many of the online breaker systems as possible - and would keep doing so. What is actually wrong with yours David? Repairable with some engineering? Audi dealers? Is such things as redundant stock national searches at dealers, a thing of the past? - I guess so. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Annie, Many thanks for posting. Perhaps it would further help potentially interested parties if you included your expected price. Kind regards, Gareth.