Magnet

Hello Annie, Many thanks for posting. Perhaps it would further help potentially interested parties if you included your expected price. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Asad, Sounds good. A simple battery test with a voltmeter is virtually meaningless. Apologies for a different of point of view, but £200 for an AGM battery ( of course dependent on size) would not automatically seem to be a no brainier to me. I would certainly consider it worthwhile to compare prices at online battery specialists before offending my wallet. Kind regards, Gareth.

As a matter of interest Sean, do the other (secondhand?) locks you are finding have the same part number except for the last letter? Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Nigel. Good point, and in any case, the battery should be charged - as best it can be - before testing. All modern stop/start vehicles are super sensitive to overall ( in caps) battery condition and the car’s battery condition monitor assesses all important parameters, so my view is that if the battery proves to be completely serviceable under a sophisticate test then happy days. If any monitored parameter shows marginal, then it would be new battery for me - sooner than later. I understand the CTec are great if the car is left unused for extended periods of time. However, they can be expensive to the tune of a similar price to a new battery. What I’m trying to say is (in a not very clear way!) - it would not be economical to buy one, in the hope that it will revive an ailing battery. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. a new battery is likely to need to be recoded to the car.

Hello Steve, See reply to Poorna’s post - this morning. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Asad, As Steve Y says - you must suspect the battery first, and get it professionally tested - Halfords will do this. If the battery is unserviceable, then yes, you must ( in caps) replace it with a stop/start AGM battery. Halfords sell batteries, but I always buy on line from specialists battery suppliers such as Tayna ( there are more - just Google it). I only buy Varta/ Bosch in their 5 year warranty range - don’t buy cheap batteries, ( paying high prices does not always guarantee quality!), but buy a good brand at the most competitive price from the specialists. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Poorna. Thanks for being in touch. ’ Frosty nights…’ may be the clue here. Carefully peel back the rubber covering on the harness which runs from the body into the boot/tailgate, and inspect all wires within this section. This a favourite location for wires to fracture, due to continued opening/closing - particularly in cold weather where the harness becomes less pliable (frosty night!) If that is ok, then you need to remove the inside plastic covering from the boot/tailgate and inspect all connections. The effect of non working rear washers, and general water ingress is often associated with troubles in this area. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Tim, but has the fault - non start issue now been resolved? I guess it must have been, but I’m having difficulty in trying to interpret why the subsequent non- start bit and the resolution of that, but it could be me missing something. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John, I agree with virtually all you have said in the last but one post. Can I boil this down to the logic - as I see it (with the I in bold caps), and I can only apologise for the lack of additional opinion on here at the moment:- If your MOT isn’t imminent, then I would forget about the front wishbone bushes for the moment, on the basis they are only split, but not broken. However, I have to temper this advice since I haven’t seen the car, so cannot be positive about the extent, or whether this advice is truly sound, but….. While you are continuing your search for a good and trusted local garage, I would be taking the car around to a (local independent if possible) tyre retailer, and asking them to thoroughly inspect all four tyres in relation to any tyre or wheel issues which might account for the noise you describe - ask them to road test the car if at all possible. Such an inspection will at least eliminate tyres and wheels as the cause, and would be a positive and valid next step forward. Personally, I would not be revealing that the wishbone bushes have been declared split - on the basis that no one has actually told you that that is the cause of your noise. I would be sitting back and giving this whole business a good coat of thinking about, rather than knee jerking into any decisions at the moment. Having said that, the car is trying to tell you something, so whatever the cause is has to be found. Other non associated wear problems should be parked on the back burner until someone comes up with a positive diagnosis. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John, Apologies for this hogging this post, and for repeating previous advice - which of course - may or may not be sound:- We know you have a flapping noise, which could be as simple as an insecure plastic under shield, or associated with a choice of many other issues - even worm wishbone bushes. I’m not sure if anyone who has inspected the car has clearly identified the cause, but all have simply confirmed the wishbone bushes are worn - to what extent?? New question:- did you ask Halfords to investigate the source of your flapping noise, or to investigate the possibility of your noise being associated with the worn bushes? All important difference. Whatever, they are understandably covering their bum by not claiming renewing the bushes will cure your problem. Appreciating you don’t want to spend £500, and your aim to save money by renewing the wishbones ( even though no one has clearly identified these to be the offending cause). Apologies again John for saying it as I see it, but if you are seriously intending to replace the wishbones yourself, and you are asking the question where the jacking points are, then I fear for your ability to safely and correctly carryout this work - even if it is believed to be the cause of your noise. Once again, sorry John, but….. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. plea again - can someone else advise John on this whole business since unfortunately I’ve run out of road with John’s quest for help and advice from the forum?

Thanks David, You seem to have carried out the searches which I would have suggested, so now saved me advising these routes. Re. Part numbers:- Since your part is no longer available via. Audi then I would expect that they will correctly advise you if the suffix letter signifies any unacceptable differences. I wouldn’t attempt to seek this advice over the phone, but go along and talk with the Parts chap in person. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks John - that makes it clearer. Re 2 hour wait:- It’s probably me, but certainly around these parts, you are expected to drop the car off and advised to collect it later in the day, rather than a drive-in-do-it-drive-away service. Probably different in your neck of the woods. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, Welcome to the forum and thanks for posting your advert. To minimise the risk of offers below your expectations, can I suggest you post an anticipated selling price. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John, If you managed to walk into a local garage and was able to get them to change the oil and filter that day - while you wait - then I fear you have probably picked the wrong garage. No decent local garage can be expected to deal with walk- in jobs at a drop of a hat, and it would be reasonable to expect to wait at least a week to book any job in. If you didn’t have to, then I would be suspicious. Sorry to say it as I see it, but to complain that you had to wait 2 hours is an unreasonable complaint. Still… There just has to be a trusted local garage, and it may take some searching and intensive asking around to find the right one, but that’s the hard fact. I feel I cannot offer any additional advice (as I see it - in caps), and I feel to return to the Audi dealership would not be the route I would go down - with all due respect to my wallet and confidence of a satisfactory resolution. I think I am a lone voice with this post, and would welcome some additional input, which might disagree or agree with my views. It’s quiet on here! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, Where have you looked and failed to find this part so far? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Andy, so you now need to talk with your Bagpiping namesake then. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John, So we now have Audi, who want you to throw loads of money at it (to hopefully) solve your flapping noise which is due, fundamentally, to worn wishbone bushes. You have an Audi specialist who confirm the bushes are worn, but personally I get the feeling that just means the bushes are worn - but are they the cause of your flapping noise?? Audi specialist No2 say the noise is due to a worn front wheel bearing and want to relieve your wallet of approx. £330. Questions to others out here:- Is it just me who is in doubt about any of these diagnosis being due to the noise you describe, but being realistic that we are not privy to hearing this noise? Question back to you John :- do you have/ or can you get, a recommendation for a trusted local garage who can road test the car and give you an ‘independent’ view on the cause? Can anyone else join in with some advice on this? Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. It would be worth ringing your Audi dealer and asking for a price to change the front wheel bearing IF it turns out to be that which is the source of your noise. Audi specialists are not always cheaper than the main dealers.

Hello Chris, Thanks for being in touch with the forum, and sorry to hear of your issue. If you are losing coolant (and it sounds as if it’s a considerable amount by your description) then logically it must be either be leaking (‘externally’) or being burnt by combustion. The leak may be from the heater matrix, and if it is, then there is going to be evidence inside the car/ under carpets. If there is a leak on the external parts of the coolant system within the engine bay, then it should be evident there. Normally pinkish deposits are a tell tale, but you could try laying paper under the engine compartment and seeing if there are any damp patches - obviously weather dependent test. If both of these are negative, then coolant may be leaking into the engine intervals and being burnt - so no external evidence of a leak. A simple test is to take the car on a 10 mile run, then immediately on your return, get an assistant to rev the engine to a steady 2000rpm and hold it there for about 2 to 3 minutes while you observe the exhaust smoke - looking for grey vapour. Don’t ignore the fact that pressure testing the system ( to a greater than normal operating pressure) may have aggravated an already minor leak. Heater issues? May not be directly associated with the now coolant loss. Coolant loss now becomes your priority. Maybe worth sending a PM to the last poster. Perhaps you could let us know how you get off with the above tests. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Lee, The original poster joined and last visited the forum a couple of days later - in excess of two and a half years ago. Probably best to PM him in the hope he still has the same contact details. Perhaps you could come back to us if you have any success. Battery:- Have you had the battery tested, and the alternator output, and had the car checked for a parasitic drain. If not, I would suggest this course of action in relation to the ‘dead’ battery. Noise:- have you had the road wheel removed, and the tyre and wheel thoroughly inspected? Has the wheel bearing been checked for wear and noise? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Bjorn, When you say you cannot buy one anywhere, where have you tried? New or secondhand? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Omar, That’s great news, and thank you for sharing it with us - that is a bonus to the forum, since we often don’t get feedback on resolutions. We wish you well with your search for a replacement, and may I suggest having the car inspected (by AA) before purchase, even if buying from an Audi dealer. OK, it will cost a couple of hundred pounds, but it will represent a small additional expense within the overall major expenditure. Many thanks again and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello folks, The high level brake light has failed on the 2006 A3, and needs to be renewed ( supply is fine). EBay lists a predominance of Chinese supplies, and judging by the prices being asked for used ones, I would anticipate a new VAG one would be an arm and leg job. Wondered if anyone has been there, done it and it’s lasted, with a non VAG one, and could pass on a recommendation. Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mon, You are very welcome to advertise the car on here, and include photos, as full a description as possible, together with the price you want for it. And/or, I would suggest listing it on EBay. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Steve, I think it’s more to do with the Japanese ‘Road tax’ system being based on current emissions requirements, and the tax paid is highly influenced by the degree the vehicle fails to meet these (current) requirements. The older the car the greater the differential between acceptable emission limits when built, and emission requirements now, and the tax penalties render them uneconomical to retain in the country - hence they are exported. How long before that happens here? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Charlotte again, If this were mine, I would not be bothering to sort out the door situation as priority over the charging issue. Not much point in having fully functioning doors if the battery isn’t charging/ going flat. OK, the car doesn’t have the stop/start function, but that doesn’t mean it shouldn’t have an AGM type battery and an ‘intelligent charging’ system. My initial researches would be associated with clearing up this possible issue, and if the battery you have proves to be wrong, then this and the alternator would be my first priority. Kind regards, Gareth.