Magnet

Hello Charlotte again, Having given this a couple more coats of thinking about, and revisiting your initial post, you may find the following to be of some help:- 7amp equates to 84 watts ( compare a headlight bulb of say 65w) and I would consider this to be a far more than that necessary to drive an alarm and immobiliser set up. So we could be looking at a partial short situation here. Your post mentions this is worse during winter months, so what happens then? Wires become less flexible in cold weather and continual flexing can lead to breaks/partial breaks, and if this occurs, then individual wires can short against one another. The favourite spot is within the flexible harness which links the body with the boot and this would be my first port of call. You will need to release the rubber over over at one end and pull the cover back to reveal the individual wires - checking for full or partial breaks. If all is well in the body to boot area, then it’s worth looking at the similar link from the A post to the driver door. Perhaps you could let us know the outcome of these inspections. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ryan, Thanks for joining the forum. Some possible ways forward:- Audi are unlikely to give you the part numbers if you aren’t buying from them. Motor factor listings can often be vaguer than they need to be, so you have to do a bit of spade work - as you are finding. Basics:- the ‘packages’ are often based on disc diameter, so my first port of call would be to measure the outside diameter of the disc. You can sometimes do this without taking the wheel off if the wheel design is quite open. Once you have this OD then it often boils it down. TPS will sometimes (in caps) give you part numbers - sometimes they won’t even talk with you if you don’t have an account! I have used Car Parts in Motion ( no connection) a couple of times recently and found their advice, service, and pricing to be good. You simply input your reg. no. and it usually lists the correct ones, or alternatives via. VIN. You can also e-mail them for correct fitment, and they have a specialist team who sort out suitabilities. If you have to take the wheel off to measure the disc, then careful inspection of the calipers usually points to cast in numbers or makes. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Ryan. Kind regards, Gareth.

Sounds good. If 7 amp drain then in 12 hours (84Ah) it will of course be completely dead. Pending getting the car inspected etc, why not disconnect it overnight/ when not in use? OK it may mean you have to recode the radio etc., but better than having to keep recharging the battery. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Andy. As said, I would be having a chat with your Bagpiping namesake, before spending anything else. His specialised advice would be free. Compressor in boot - great - so at least easy to get to. You are spoilt in comparison to the one I did on my non- Audi! As you may know:- when you garage referred to ‘seal’, it’s really a ceramic type piston ring. Not a difficult job to renew if this is what is wrong. Of course, it may not be this, but Andy should be able to advise you further. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks. ‘ (so the car thought the boot was shut)’- ? Anyway, if (I’ll avoid the caps) the car is fully shut down, and you still have at least a 140mA drain, then that is c x3 too much, so all I could confirm is that yes you do have an issue. What that issue is, is obviously going to need on-car investigation as apposed to distance-diagnosing, so apologies, but I cannot help you further. Perhaps someone else on here may. It sounds as if you are now going to have to invest in an hour’s services of your friendly auto electrician. Perhaps you’d like to let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Charlotte, we are now getting the detail. As I see it, we now understand that you are monitoring the ‘parasitic drain’ with the bonnet open, so there is a strong possibility that the alarm has not fully set (bonnet open) and the system has not gone to sleep. If it were mine, I would be making myself a set of well insulated ‘fly’ leads which you carefully feed to the outside of the car, connect your meter to these, then close the bonnet. Wait at least a minute and measure the drain at that point. Perhaps you could do that and report back. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks for coming back on this Andy. Do you know where the compressor is situated? Towards the rear? AmI right in thinking it’s only the rear suspension is air. For what it’s worth, why don’t you search out Bagpiping Andy and talk it through with him? He is a very experienced guy, and may pinpoint the problem for you. I ask where the compressor is situated, since it may be worth ‘investing’ in a new piston ring anyway. Kind regards, Gareth.

Ok, but I’m still not sure if your 7 amps was measured immediately it was locked with the fob rather than 1 minute later- your write up suggests straight away, but it’s unclear. Could you please clarify. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Ian, We now need to canvas experience of others on here. In my experience, this phenomenon is not restricted to Audi. I’ve come across this on other marques I have driven where the wipers ‘go to sleep’ when the car comes to a halt. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Charlotte, When you say you have a c7amp drain when the car is locked with fob, was this test done straight away, or about a minute after it is locked? As I understand it, the normal current will drop after that time, once the alarm and immobilisers have set. 140mA when locked with the key seems high to me. I would have expected more like 50mA once everything has set. It sounds as if you you are going to need to invest in an hour or so of an auto electrician’s time. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, Apologies for the lack of response. We do try, but sometimes we fail. For what it’s worth :- our 2006 A3 - also owned from new - has always done this, so to us, it’s obviously normal. If you say yours hasn’t, then I wonder if you may have had some work done on the car in recent times, such as a new recoded battery etc. If not, it sounds like a trip to your dealer or independent who should be able to either diagnose a fault or re programme it not to do this. Perhaps you could colour in the detail. Kind regards, Gareth.

Surprising to hear the car was built with 18 inch wheels. If it indeed was, then your Speedo is going to be way out unless you have a very high profile tyre fitted on your 16 inch. Would I take it your dealer is correct?? Who did you talk with there? Incase it helps:- Our 2006 A3 is also fitted with 16 inch wheels, and the recommended tyre pressures for that are 30psi front and 29 rear for two passengers. To me, 33psi would be a bit too high. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks John, but the common issue with loss of hydraulic pressure is often associated with slave cylinder assemblies, and not master cylinders. We shall have to wait until Andrew comes back to us. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andrew, Thanks for being in touch with the forum, and sorry to hear of your issue. Many thanks also for the detailed description and action taken. The only thing that I’m not clear on is what you have done (with the clutch hydraulics) to rectify the primary loss of clutch pressure. I saw LUK and clutch, but on re-reading this, it seems the switch was by LUK rather than any clutch parts replacement. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Not wanting to be critical, but constructive, when I say, I think your location description might not be to your best advantage. As has been said on here so many times, we try to come over as being as helpful and friendly as we can, and I think that that would probably include advice on where best to seek assistance in your area, and even hands on support if that were possible.

Hello Henning, Not sure on a car as far back as 2009, but I wonder if the new battery needs coding to the car, before it will satisfy the immobiliser? Whatever, it sounds like you are going to be in need of some specialist advice and possibly equipment. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Kevin, With the comparatively minor on cost expense, I would be treating this to a good dose of the Redex fuel additive, and half a tank full of premium grade (non supermarket) fuel, followed by a good sprightly run. Worth a try? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andy, Thanks for being in touch, and sorry to hear of your issue. This could be a number of possibilities from a leak, level sensor, below par compressor etc. Re. safe to drive? - I would be entrusting your judgement based on how you see it, and the advice you will get by phoning your Independent. If it turns out to be the compressor then you have your namesake -Andy - up in your neck of the woods, known as Bagpiping Andy, who specialises in making compressor piston rings ( common cause) and supplying reconditioned units. You should find him on a search. Try EBay search for ‘air suspension piston rings’ if stuck. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Forgot to ask - what brand filters are you intending to use?

Hello ?, You can’t beat the sort of advice that hard day to day running proves as with Steve’s experience. Just to be sure I’m on the right track with your question, are you asking for grade confirmation, or brand confirmation. If grade and spec. then always consult the handbook - which I guess you have done -? If brand, then this of course comes from personal choice and experience, as with Steve. My personal brand choice is Quantum (believed Castrol) which was/is? recommended by VAG. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. What’s you name by the way?

What did you order after? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Terry, Thanks for being in touch. Personally, I would not put my contact details on an open forum. Interested parties can get in touch via. a PM. I think you can edit your post accordingly, but if you have difficulty then please let me know, and I can do it for you. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Leanne, Thanks for being in touch and sorry to hear of your issue. Sounds like battery failure/below par. Can we take it the battery is the original? If so, it would make sense in terms of service life with use if the stop/start system. If it were mine and the battery is the original, I would simply order a direct replacement from on-line suppliers such as Tayna, Battery Megastore etc ( there are more - and no connection) - it should be with you tomorrow. I only buy Varta/Bosch in their 5 year warranty grade (silver topped). It is almost certain that the new battery will need to be coded to the car. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Michael, My gut feeling is that it was originally on the inside of the fuel flap. Does this look as if it might have been changed ar some time? Probably worth keeping an eye out for a similar model year and asking the owner if you can take a photo of the detail on theirs. Kind regards, Gareth.

Edited for you Stewart. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stewart, Thanks for letting us know. Personally, I would not be listing my e-mail address on an open forum, in preference to asking interested parties to simply send you a message on the forum. You should be able to edit it out. If not, let us know. Kind regards, Gareth.