Magnet

Hello Rafal, Reducing the wheel size down to 17 inch, from your current (originally equipped?) 20 inch, is a major change - even if they physically fit. You will need to calculate the outside diameter of the wheel + tyre of your current 20 inch, then calculate what significantly-increased profile tyre you would need to fit to a set of 17 inch wheels. You will also need to find out whether 17 inch wheels were ever originally an option with your model year to ensure their fitment won’t invalidate your insurance. Kind regards, Gareth.

OK, we take it it’s the rear seal then. Would I pull the gearbox out, dismantle the whole clutch assembly (to get at the oil seal) and not take the opportunity to replace some/all of the clutch components while it’s apart??? Kind regards, Gareth.

Sorry to reports the question - Front or rear seal? If rear seal, what is the proposed again with the clutch, which has to be removed to get at the seal?

Sorry to hear that Shaun. Front or rear crankshaft seal? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Steve, No offence meant, but great that you put your faith in EBay’s generic cross reference, which I think has caught a number of people out with its inaccuracies. Perhaps I’ve got it wrong with the significance of the last letter with Audi, and if so, it wouldn’t explain why I have the wrong Audi cambelt kit here on the shelf, which only differs from a completely different one by the letter at the end of the full part number. It could be me Steve! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John, Yes John, unless someone has moved Cardiff out of S.Wales. Strange that the temperature ‘gauge’ isn’t mentioned in the handbook. Can anyone on here help John out out with this? Thermostat DIYable? Not really sure on your engine even if you let us know, but yes, been there on the old humble 1.6, although access to one bolt was rather tricky. No doubt someone will advise further if you let us know what engine you have. ‘Leave to the professionals’? Maybe better unless you have some experience and necessary tools, and knowledge of how to bleed the coolant system. Sorry to bore folks on here, but I would insist on using only good quality parts ( if not using the probably expensive VAG part - at discount). Just don’t bother to do anything if cheapest price is king or good enough. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John from the Homeland. Since the heating system appears to work after about 15 minutes driving, it would suggest that the system itself is probably OK. Reason for your issues up to that 15 minute point? Sounds typical of thermostat problems, where the thermostat remains partly open even when cold. No temperature gauge! Great technological move is that! I’m not sure how the digital display ‘works’ with your model, but I would have expected it to be a permanent display which indicates how quickly the coolant temperature rises, and above all, warns of any impending overheating. I take it you have an owners handbook. Have you had a look in there John? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Steve, but I’m not sure I follow your logic that if there isn’t any power to the bulb holder, it doesn’t matter what position the switch is in. As in all switched circuits, the ‘power’ is fed to the switch, and the operation of the switch completes the power circuit to the bulb holder. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks. It would be daft for me to ask if you have tested the switch - it’s in the off position in your photo.

Hello Shaun, Many thanks for being in touch with the forum - perhaps some of the following may help :- Have you got an owner’s manual for the car? If you do, then you will already know the fuse location from reference to the book. If you don’t, you should find one on EBay. Anyway, on my 2006 A3, the fuse is No.15 (yes 10 amp rated),and this is located in the fuse box to be found by removing the cover panel from the end of the left hand side of the dashboard - will be evident when the passenger door is open. No. 15 is in the 3rd row down, and just short of half way along. Does this sound like the location of the blown fuse you changed? ‘…..boot light working..’ - that may (in caps) be controlled by the courtesy light activation. If the fuse you have replaced is the correct location, then it’s worth removing it again, and squirting some contact cleaner into the holder before replacing the fuse. ‘…..no bulbs….’ Any chance someone had tried fitting LEDs and messed something up? If the fuse is serviceable (and yes a lower rated 7.5 should do for test purposes) and so are the bulbs, then it’s half an hour out with a meter to check voltages and earths. If you are not too confident with a meter then I would suggest it would be worth investing in an hour with a trusted local auto electrician. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Don, I take it your Audi dealer doesn’t want to give you the part number because you possibly don’t want to buy a new one from them -? There was someone on here some time ago who seemed to be able to get part numbers from the VIN. Hopefully, they will be along for you Don. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gary, Others may refute the following, but they may not have indeed treated you to such a negative reaction as you at first think. 4 wheel alignment is great, but only in the hands of those who fully understand how to correctly use the technology in respect of your particular car. You mention Hunter, and quite rightly consider it to be sophisticated, but put it in the hands of a semi- experienced operator, and ( like all other equipment) it can be a disaster area. Yes, I know companies can/should send operators on a half day course, but…. The way forward? You mention that one front tyre has been wearing, so is a 4 wheel alignment check really essential? - as opposed to front wheel alignment. Even front-wheel- only alignment adjustment can be a minefield, and you watch with some reassurance while they clamp your steering wheel in position, then proceed to make all the necessary adjustment to one side only! Great, until you take the car on the road and find your steering wheel is now centred around 8/2 o’clock rather than the 9/3 it is supposed to be. If it were mine, I would be taking some local advice on recommended places to get the front (only) checked and correctly adjusted, and see how it goes. £200 per tyre ? I’d be needing gas and air! Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Martin, I wouldn’t be suspecting the master cylinder if there isn’t any indications of a feel at the pedal that there isn’t anything wrong. I too would follow Steve’s advice and see what that yields, before suspecting any differential and/or drive train issues. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Martin, but I think you need to give prospective buyers far more to go on within your advert. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Richard, As far as EBay is concerned, I must take it that you really want a secondhand wing mirror ‘assembly’, rather than the two individual parts you list. Yes, I appreciate you have to wade through numerous listings for stick-on mirrors etc, but when you have narrowed it down, it should be possible to request additional photos (if necessary) where you think you have found what you are looking for. In terms of actually finding something on line locally, where you can go and inspect it before purchase, is really narrowing down your chances of getting what you want, and it may be worth considering buying new - at an obviously higher price. Same really applies to car breaker link sites- the best you are going to expect will be photographic evidence of compatibility and condition. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Martin, Thanks for the additional helpful information. When the wheel spin or stalling occurs, are you aware of the clutch pedal bite point being suddenly fierce at that point? Kind regards, Gareth.

Why electrical Mike? Heater matrixes have been problematic. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Liam, I wonder if you can add the actual tyre size to your advert to aid your sale. Sorry, I can’t quite make it out. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Martin, From the school of eliminating the simple things first :- what brands of tyres are on the car, are they matched on each side of the same axle, what is the approx. remaining tread on each tyre, and have you checked the tyre pressures? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Richard, Have you searched EBay, and registered your ‘wants’ with on-line car breaker sites such as Partsfinder - there are more? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for clearing that up Arron. You may need to get your new battery coded to the car. Hopefully Stevey will let us know whether this is likely to be the case or not. Kind regards, Gareth.

Oh blinking heck Philip. I feel for you. It was obviously a good call to replace the DMF and a genuine VAG should do all its meant to do for many years to come. I would being cynical if I questioned whether they did actually fit a genuine VAG part - wouldn’t I. Yes, forget I asked that. Quality DMF such as LUK not available? Could be, but worth checking with LUK technical that it isn’t? It was also a good call to suggest the remaining clutch assembly is changed while the car is stripped. Question:- Were the remaining parts purchased from VAG, or were they aftermarket? If it turns out they were aftermarket then ask the simple question - what brand? You may get the answer -OEM. If so re-ask the question. Crankshaft ‘worn’? In what respect? Thrust bearing allowing forward movement? Apologies for all the questions, and this one - Why did the garage hand this car back to you with a four figure bill, with symptoms similar to when you left it with them for repair? Assertive, sounds to be the way forward here. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Again, sorry for your plight. Kind regards, Gareth.

I’m confused with this as well Cliff. My interpretation had to be that Arron had had the thermostat replaced - or indeeds intends to get it replaced ?- but now has a further (unrelated) issue with a sub standard battery. If my interpretation isn’t correct, then Arron will need to correct us. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Dean. The production hold ups has been well publicised. Perhaps you would have a look in at the Forum rules when you have a chance, and although the system isn’t able to edit out abbreviated bad language as it can with it in its written form, it would be great if you could perhaps think back a little in future not to upset anyone. Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.

Do not buy cheap batteries Arron. This will be bad news for you in the long run. Buy once and wisely - Bosch/Varta with a 5 year warranty - from on line suppliers (look on EBay) at most competitive prices. Kind regards, Gareth.