Magnet

Hello Paul, Worth having a read of Steve’s thread above. Do not use any car washing fluid which has wax in it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Not on this thread, but on other threads enquiring about the significance of the last letter of part numbers. Kind regards, Gareth.

Sorry Ted, I interpreted the ‘ I know NOTHING’ to mean what it says. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Vdm, As I’ve said before, as I understand it, yes, the last letter is indeed significant, and does signify a difference. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Arron, obviously a good call then. Detail is king. Kind regards, Gareth,

Thanks Paul, Sounds good. I would be asking them to obtain a service print out for you to study before you buy it, since it’s unlikely the servicing dealership will give it to you if you are not the registered owner. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Arron, You didn’t ‘self diagnose’ the need to fit a new water pump did you?? Am I being unfair to the garage which fitted it, because they didn’t diagnose it? The symptoms you describe are typical thermostat associated issues. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, I would be asking - are you buying this 9 year old car in your own locality? If you are hopefully buying locally, and you have very little mechanical knowledge, then I would be arranging to have the car inspected by a recommended local diesel specialist - rather than an ‘ordinary’ garage. I think it’s great that you are doing all your research on the model before purchase. All you now need to do is to get your chosen car inspected before putting your name to a sheet of paper. Good to read, but bad news travels fast. If not buying locally:- Um! You can probably kiss good bye to any warranty, due to potential impractical distances and hassle factor. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Arron, Just one point to add to Steve’s response - don’t take it to the same garage to renew the thermostat, as the ones who suggested your symptoms were as a result of a faulty water pump - rather than a faulty thermostat! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Elaine, Thanks for being in touch with the forum, and sorry to hear of your issue. Apologies that this is what it is, and is pessimistic, but regrettably, I think it’s highly unlikely that anyone on here would be able to pinpoint the fundamental problem with the vehicle (with no access to it) when the combined technical experience at Audi (dealership?) and a diesel specialist have failed. Sorry, I don’t want that to be dismissive, but constructive, and if it were mine, I would be concentrating my mind on taking legal advice (CAB) to reject the vehicle as unfit for purpose - given that you have allowed the seller plenty of opportunity to rectify the problem - and he has failed (not for the want of trying!) I’m not sure what the consumer law is in NI, but there will be a time limit on the rejection, so there might be some urgency to gather the information you would need to go forward along this route. I really don’t see it’s right that you should be worrying yourself about its cause. Its final resolution? Yes. Perhaps you could let the forum know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Never too old to learn from other folks experiences - good and bad. Many thanks Steve. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Andrew, Well you are’n’t going to know for sure unless you enquire with a number of them. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andrew, I would have thought this would have come under the scope of a trusted local auto electrician. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Philip, My stab at it is not going to be good news I’m afraid, but it’s sounds as if the dual mass flywheel is beginning to grizzle and will require replacement. If so, then this becomes a big job, including dismantling the 3 part clutch assembly ( which it would be daft not to renew at the same time). Mr. Clutch? I can’t offer any experience of their - franchise? outlets. One principle which has stood me in stead is to only use quality parts for such important applications, and obviously using cheaper parts (still with a so called 1 year warranty) can result in it being necessary to have to get the job done again much sooner than you would expect. OK, you may insist that only quality parts - such as LUK - are used, but in reality, you won’t have any knowledge of what make of parts they actually do use. Of course, they will tell you they only use OEM parts - a much used statement! Worth getting a quote from your trusted local garage using quality parts which you can supply, having bought them at discount? Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Philip. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Peter, I too would not be overly concerned, and would just monitor any consumption over the next month or couple of months. Many thanks for the service history detail. A car which was covering less than 4K miles a year should never have been on a Longlife schedule, but should have been on an annual service programme - as it should be from now on with your anticipated usage. It’s understandable to believe that a car which only covers this low mileage does not need its oil changed that frequently, but such short distance usage is not good for a vehicle, since it barely get up to optimum operating g temperature. If it were mine, I think I would treat its last service as if it never existed - see Steve’s experience above - and get it serviced with new oil, air and pollen filters ( insist on Mann filters and you won’t go wrong) and use Quantum Longlife oil. You will then have a confirmed basing point to go forward with. Have it service every year with a new oil filter, and new air and pollen filters every two years. A bit of an overkill? Some may understandably say -yes - but treat them well and they will hopefully serve you well. Find yourself a good trusted local garage, and even have an arrangement with them where you supply the parts. Apologies for the bit of a ramble Peter, but hope some of it helps. Some would say full main dealer service history is king - but out of warranty, I prefer to entrust servicing to local mechanics who you can actually talk with mrather than service receptionists. Kind regards, Gareth.

To be completely sure of our facts here Rob, I think we have to give Peter an opportunity of finally clarifying the accurate current level compared with the handbook stated level. Anything else before that is ‘suggesting’ what the oil level actually is. If it proves to be (grossly?) over the max./full mark, then yes it will require to be reduced, and if this were mine, I would take the opportunity of fostering a good relationship with a trusted local garage - where the oil level can be reduced , and who would be prepared to service the car for you from now on. For Peter, When you say this 8 year old 26k miles car has full Audi service history, how often has it been serviced in that 8 years? Also what will be your anticipated annual mileage? I ask this since it would be helpful to know how to set its service requirement going forward. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Perry, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. With regard to spacing the wheels away from the hub - a couple of points:- Audi design engineers spent a spent experienced time in designing the layout of the bearings assembly to ensure the centre load line of the wheel and tyre was in the optimum position to minimise undue load on bearings. By spacing the wheels out from their designed position, then you throw all that design experience out through the window and create different loading. If you ignore that and wish to continue then you will obviously need to acquire non original wheel studs. If you do that, how are you going to assess if they meet the same specifications requirements as the Audi originals? I take it you will notify your insurers of such a modification to make sure your insurance cover remains. Of course, that’s all the negative (realistic) bits, but I respect you may still wish to favour your more ‘aggressive’ look, and perhaps someone will advise on -what they have got away with. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s.Just noticed your car is still under warranty - such modification could invalidate that in part.

Hello Peter, A Mann filter will be a fine alternative to a ‘genuine Audi’ one - which will probably have been supplied by Mann anyway. Sorry, but I’m not at all clear from your description where your level is currently at. Have you consulted your handbook and compared the dipstick level (taken cold) with that showing as Max. in the handbook. Appreciating what has been said about the perils of excessively high oil levels, we would be talking ‘excessively’ over the max/full mark rather than slightly over it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Yvonne, Many thanks for being in touch with the forum, and sorry to hear of your issue. I’m not sure I’m getting the exact detail from the photo, but to me, it looks as if your bonnet retaining ‘hook’ is now only held on by one fastener. If so, personally, I would not be happy driving this car, since you don’t know how sound the remaining fastener actually is - and you know it’s counterpart has already sheared off! If this were mine, I would be getting this attended to without delay, before the remaining fastener decides to give up, and leave you with the frightening situation of the bonnet flying open against the windscreen. Apologies if this appears alarmist, but I think it’s only right and fair to advise you to treat this with the respect it deserves. Suggested way forward:- buy two new fasteners from your local Audi dealer, and get someone to apply a liberal dosing of penetrating oil around the remaining fastener, leave for a while, and then carefully attempt to unscrew it. As Rob suggests, you will then have to drill out the remains of the thread on the broken one - but only after (whoever is going to do it) has inserted a substantial plate (if possible) between the inner and outer skins of the bonnet. Failure to do that is likely to result in the drill going straight through the outer skin!! You have a hole in the outer skin of your bonnet. The chosen drill size will have to be the correct diameter to allow the new fastener thread to be cut into the drilled hole. Obviously a job for a careful engineering shop. Kind regards, Gareth.

Perhaps in hindsight Peter, this might have appeared to be a major cause for concern and criticism at the time, but in the end, it all seems to have worked out OK, except someone added a little too much oil because he checked the level when hot. I don’t wish to defend them, but simply clarify the (hopefully?) full story, so other members can form their own conclusions on Car Shop’s business, to add to the experience which caused you to be dissatisfied. Good luck and I trust you continue to enjoy the car. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Peter, But what is your actual issue with the car, that you are asking Car Shop to rectify, and have given you reputed poor service with? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dave, Being the cynical old so and so that I am, I was led to believe that Audi drivers didn’t know what indicators were for! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Peter, Under the old school of car ownership - for which I am a full paid up member!- you must check your oil every 1000 miles maximum, and at any point before you undertake an unusually longer journey than normal. Same for coolant level, and tyre pressures. You would not be allowed to put your faith in warning lights to tell you when you need to add oil. Check oil level, only on level ground, and after the car has stood for at least 2 hours. It sounds as if the dealer checked the oil when hot and added some when it wasn’t really necessary. You now need to regularly check it (when cold) and monitor any oil usage over a specific mileage travelled. Don’t worry about anything, until you have proved you have something to worry about. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Blue, If this were mine, I would be discussing the part brand to be used, with the warranty company, and if possible even providing the chosen part yourself, and present it for fitting even if this would incur a minor expense on your part. Beware of the often (alway?) used term ‘O.E.M quality’. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello again, I would reasonably expect that if this work is being done under warranty then only the offending one would be changed - the warranty would not cover ‘anticipated future wear’ of other units. Wonder if you could clarify how the need for a new link was discovered? Again, if the work is being done under warranty, you may not have as much control as you would like over the choice of parts used. Even the poorest quality should last the anticipated one year warranty on parts. Meyle ‘heavy duty’ vs. Lemforder? Heavy duty can be a much used selling term, along with OEM. I can only restate that it’s been Lemforder (which I believe was the original equipment supplier) for me - if that helps. Kind regards, Gareth.