Magnet

Hello Habib, We don’t know what size wheels (and tyres) you have now, or were fitted as original equipment when the car was new. Before making any decision on whether to move to 19inch wheels, you will need to do some maths and work out the total outside diameter of the current wheels and tyres, by knowing the wheel diameter and calculating the tyre ‘height’ from the profile figure of your tyres -say for example you now have 50 profile tyres then your tyre height will be 50% of your tyre width. If you fit 19 inch wheels then the tyre profile has to reduce to keep the total outside diameter the same as it is now with your current wheels. As has been indicated, lower profile tyres will make for a harsher ride, and if this is what you want to put up with as a trade off for potentially better cornering at speed then then you obviously have to judge what best suits your driving style. Of course, some owners consider larger wheels to be attractive (to others?) but the reality is you can’t see them when you are driving! It all depends what attracts you to larger diameter wheels Habib, and how important it is to change - and that decision has to take into account potential insurance premium implications if such wheel sizes were not an available option on your model when new. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Brian, but I’m not the one looking for parts. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Arron, I too am struggling to hear any ‘stray’ noises around the general noise, even with the volume turned up, although I do pick up a hint of an intermittent ‘tinkling’ noise. I’m sure you will appreciate that diagnosing such issues is an almost impossible risk for the forum, and, as I see it, the best way forward in this case is to get the car road tested by your trusted local garage. In addition to this unhelpful response, experience has shown that even when vehicles are road tested in the company of the owner (allowable now under Covid rules?) the noises may not be heard by the mechanic. Perhaps you can keep the forum informed as this progresses to a resolution. Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.

If you interpret it as it is written then you could argue that the term FSH translates to all the servicing that has been carried out on the car has been recorded as a history of what has been done, and not necessarily that all the required servicing has been carried out. Not quite the same??

Hello Graham, I guessed that since you are now looking into the car’s service history, the car is a recent purchase, and since it is now 6 year old, it’s highly unlikely that it would have been sold out of a main dealership. So called ‘full service history’ becomes the be all and end all ( with emphasis on the end all) consideration for many owners or potential owners, but the extent of that servicing can be controlled by the owner at the time the service is carried out. In your case, it wouldn’t surprise me if the owner/leaser at the time, simply decided not to spend on the fluid change, since the car was soon to be returned/sold. This might be where your answer lies, so it’s now a case of getting it done as soon as possible. Kind regards, Gareth.

First suspect would be the battery Gary - even though it may start the car without issue, it could still be registering a low reading on one of the parameters on the battery condition monitor. You would need to get it checked, but not sure if Halfords checks are sophisticated enough. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Nick, Any thanks for being in touch. Would it be possible to let us have an image of what you want - either as a photo, or a simple sketch? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Michal, Apologies, but I’ve only just picked up this thread, but iI had picked it up earlier, I would have suggested giving this purchase a good second coat of thinking about. Car a year old, and being sold - presumably at unbelievable depreciated loss - why?? Problems and dissatisfaction? Of course, the Covid restrictions may have delayed its sale as ‘an ex demonstrator’ type vehicle, but I would have wanted to know chapter and verse on it. Fast forward to now, and already ‘2 scary moments in 2 weeks’, and trying different modes and ‘think I’ll just have to get used to it’. I would consider you don’t have to do that in preference to following Steve’s route of rejecting the car if you have reasonable grounds to do so - and it sounds like you symptoms border safety implications. If it were mine, I would be writing to the dealer principal (I take it you did buy it from a main dealer), and requesting you return the car for a full refund if they cannot sort it, but you are registering the fact that the rejection notice starts from the day of the letter - irrespective of how much longer than 30 days it might take them to try to rectify the issue. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, Without going back on old ground, I’ve often found that VAG parts prices at discount (in caps) are generally in line other manufacturers, with the exception of brake discs, and most certainly clutches. The need for these parts has always driven me down the road of good quality aftermarket, and I too would have gone for LUK. I’m sorry you have failed there, and wondered if you had tried Sachs - who may (also?) have been the OE supplier. Failing that, and if you do have to go down the VAG parts route, it could be worth getting a quote on the discount prices from Audi Parts Direct -Cardiff ( part of Mon Motors - the old Cardiff Audi) - Phil was the contact there, or Malcolm at Aberdeen Audi. An interesting point which I’m well out of touch with the current facts was that I understood a couple of decades ago that unlike the U.K. where we can walk into our local motor factors, our European friends were not blessed with such establishments, and had to go for main dealer parts. Probably all changed now, with on-line outlets, but it would be interested to have an update. Perhaps you could let us know Steve, if the Sachs route comes up favourable, or it’s worth trying Continental on-line parts suppliers. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks James, I don’t have a budget to buy this plate, since it doesn’t interest me personally, but as a moderator I just feel that to generate an interest in an advertisement then the advert should have a ‘guide price’ around which offers would be considered. Not to have any idea of what price you have in mind, will either put people off, or generate dealings via. ‘silly’ offers. At least, anyone interested now knows what the price you have in mind actually is. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jodie, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. Sorry to be a pain, but I’m having difficulty in understanding the symptoms. Is the starter motor turning the engine over enthusiastically, but I still won’t start, or is the starter motor turning the engine over sluggishly? Kind regards, Gareth.

‘......what were you thinking?’ I was thinking you haven’t put a price on it - and I’m still thinking the same James! Kind regards, Gareth.

Price James? Kind regards, Gareth.

Might be worth you seeking advice at the Citizens Advice Bureau Miroslaw. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Harry, I think this purchase should be given a good coat of thinking about, since obviously the previous owner believes in driving ‘enthusiastically’ - well that may be a kind word to describe the car as potentially being thrashed! I can understand that you consider this saves you a lot of money in modifying the car, but without being disrespectful, it sounds as if you will also be driving it in a similar style, and you wonder whether it will last to 200K miles! Service history may be considered to be king, and yes it is important, but can simply equate to having spent half a day in a garage every 18 months, the rest of the time it’s been driven with all due disrespect. Obviously it wouldn’t be for me, but I can understand it could be attractive to you. I wish you luck. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, Taking it back to the garage sounds to be your best option, since you have faith in them. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Bard, I think that you will find that the sensors receive their signal from the hub, which has a weak type of magnet imbedded in them. With the right diagnostic equipment, it should be possible to determine which wheel is at fault. Once you have established that, then you may find you will have to change the complete hub assembly, if you have already renewed the sensor with a good quality one without success. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Charlie. You now have some tracing back to do then. If this were mine, I would now be investing in an hour’s time with a trusted local auto electrician. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Paul, Apologies for being pedantic, but please confirm it is the whirring noise which you are enquiring about. Please also confirm what engine is in this car. Sounds like a rather noisy diesel to my poor hearing but obviously not! If we are indeed talking the whirring noise, then it sounds rather like a belt or tensioner. My advice would be to find another garage to diagnose this, and perhaps taking the auxiliary belt off and checking if the noise disappears. I guess your garage is going to refit your old starter motor. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Charlie, Have you done a voltage and earth check at the headlight connection? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, Many thanks for being in touch with the forum. My hearing is pretty shot, so it’s difficult for me to diagnose, but are you talking about the whirring noise immediately on starting, or any background noise once running. If the whirring noise then it sounds like a belt or bearing noise, but.....? I take it it’s diesel - could you please confirm? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stuart, If this were mine, I would not be jumping to conclusions, but getting the necessary simple checks done to confirm or refute the assumptions. Can I suggest you first get your garage to carryout a pressure measurement on the coolant pressure when the engine is up to temperature. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Justin, Have a look a the wiring in the flexible section of the harness which links the body to the tailgate. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Clive, Sounds like you are going to have to cobble up a length of wiring to link both sides, if no such wiring exists. Will that interfere with any warning messages?? I must say, it surprises me that these are only fitted with one high intensity fog light as standard. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Emil, Everything depends on your personal situation, the use to which the car will put, your ‘insurance record’ etc. Please read my basic principles of classic car insurance if ( in caps) it would be applicable to you. Just let the forum know if you think it may, and we can give you some contacts. If it doesn’t, then just follow Shytot’s advice and pass everything through the comparison sites as most people do. As he says, ensure you add on the extras you require for your particular needs, rather than just going for the cheapest.