Magnet

Hello Anth, Also worth getting back to basics and getting the alternator output checked. Kind regards, Gareth.

As I see it Scott, releasing the parking brake (albeit affecting both sides) and running the car is the logical way to test whether it is that - or not - that is adversely affecting the one rear wheel. If the situation improves, bingo there’s your answer. If it doesn’t improve, at least you have eliminated that possibility. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Scott, Is electrically disarming the parking brake on the offending side an option - so that you can eliminate any ill effects of that system? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks again Ryan, My thoughts were that you had carried out work on the car, attempted to have the wheel alignment checked, and found the cambers on the respective wheels were x degrees left, x degrees right ( where x is usually < 10 degrees). I’m now getting the picture ( pardon the pun) that this is (substantially?) visibly wrong. If this is correct, you certainly have an issue! Again - just an impression - but does this car come with a chequered history ( coil overs etc.) ? In addition ride height differences (measurements should always be taken wheel centre to under wing) indicates non matching springs and/or breaks. All of this isn’t going to help you, but this is indeed a can of worms, and could be anything from basic misalignment as Cliff suggests, to wrong wishbones etc.etc. etc. One step ahead would be to get the car sitting on correctly pressure checked tyres, and take it for an alignment check, to see what you are actually talking about, before deciding where to go from there. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Steve, So to me, National Tyres ( Halfords) and Kwick Fit have done a free visual check and cannot find anything wrong. That doesn’t in any way attempt to explain what is actually wrong, and fair play, they are unlikely to do that for nothing. First port of call would be to get all brake disc ‘run out’ carefully measured with an accurately set up dial gauge. This will tell you whether the discs are running true or are warped/ not correctly seated. If they are running true, then the calipers have to be carefully examined … and so on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Ryan, On your topic of camber … I ask ‘What is the actual difference right to left’? ( degrees difference). Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Scott, I like the ‘informed advice’ bit Scott! That comes via. (sometimes) experienced technicians at Audi dealers at a cost of around £120/hr. On here we do the best we can, of course, without sight of the vehicle. Anyway, basic question:- electric or manual handbrake? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ryan from the Homeland, Strange why two mounting bolts were missing. Any suspicious indications of accident damage? What is the actual difference left to right? Have you checked that the upper spring seats are sitting properly? Any evidence of wishbone damage or bush wear? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Thomas, EBay listings can be non specific, but if you contact the supplier and give them your reg. no. then they are usually able to be specific. VIN may also be required in some cases. Parts in Motion ( as with ECP) have a reg. input system, and are always ready to advise where there are variations. Although there could be varying thicknesses listed, there will only be one specific thickness for the correct one for your car. Happy searching. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Brembo website should help.

Any of this advice any good to you Thomas? Kind regards, Gareth.

What year span aerie you looking at James? Kind regards, Gareth.

Coward! Why not do the maths!? Only joking. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello and welcome Josh. I would want to:- (1) Confirm the disc to hub mating surfaces had been thoroughly ( in caps) de-rusted prior to the discs been fitted. (2) Eliminate the caliper serviceability as a possible cause - might be the primary aggravator if the discs are heating up. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Thomas, ‘ECP these days’ - ? There have always been many other motor factors who have regularly undercut ECP’s (once) discounts on so called retail prices - even their sister companies such as Car Parts 4 Less, yet they seem to be first port of call for many. Well worth searching EBay for best prices from reliable suppliers of your choice. Which brand to use? There will understandably be varying opinion on most forums. I have recently been trying Brembo to good effect on a family member’s non-Audi. Suppliers? Many to choose from on EBay, but I have bought a fair amount of parts from Car Parts in Motion, and found their prices to be competitive, and their overall service to be just as you would hope for (no connection, and there are others). Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Alan, The simple answer lies with ensuring the outside diameter of the wheel and tyre remains the same as your current 19 inch set up. Obviously to achieve this, the tyre profile will need to decrease as the wheel diameter increases. You can either use on-line ( I think) calculators, or work it out yourself. If your current profile is say 40:- Calculate 40% of the current tyre width, and double it. Then add 19inches converted to mm ( 19 x 2.54). This gives you the overall diameter of the wheel and tyre. Do the same for your proposed 20inch wheel and the fitted tyre size, and compare. Points that probably go without saying:- ride quality will be adversely affected by decreasing the tyre profile. Your insurers will need to be informed if the new set up deviates from an Audi option when new, or is you are fitting ‘aftermarket’ wheels. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, Have you had a look in your handbook? That should give you the correct tyre size for your 20 inch wheel option - assuming 20 inch was an option on your model. No doubt, you will also need XL tyres for the Avant. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, Battery might need coding to the car - ? Bit of an early model for that perhaps, but…. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Pete, Re. why using Audi to service. To pay this 5K per year vehicle respect, at least the oil should be changed annually, and not every two years - low annual mileage vehicles get a hammering compared with high motorway mileage covered at optimum operating conditions. It would appear that you have the car set on a ‘ Longlife’ schedule where vehicles cover around 12K plus/an, rather than an annual service which is the most appropriate one for your mileage. Back to Cambelts:- if you are not concerned about belt failure within the next 16 years, then I wouldn’t be concerned about water pump failure either. If the WP is driven by the belt with your engine, then WP failure will wreck your engine, since the belt will jump. Don’t worry about the affect of the auxiliary belt failure either - I guess within the next 16 years also, although I would. The last paragraph is interesting -‘ extensive research, advanced technology’. No mention of marketing, who might just come up with ‘ what we lose on changing cambelts will be more more than compensated by total engine failure, resulting in scrappage and another vehicle having to be bought. Quids in with that one chaps! Anyway Pete - great danger of boring again. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Pete, Still as interesting a topic as when you posted back in April. So, wading through this, your cambelt will not need changing for another 16 or so years, by which time it will be 24 years old, and probably sitting comfortably on top of another car in a scrap yard - if (in caps) the belt lasts that long in this constant stop/start era we find ourselves in. I’m old, and old fashioned, so I think I’ll stick with earlier principles. Of course Pete, it’s your choice with what principle you follow - great, that’s saved me some money, or the peace of mind route. Whatever, you have at least been saved from linking into their free MOT for life deal, so count your lucky stars on that - that has a guaranteed affect of extracting funds from your wallet. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Wondered if you have any particular reason for using main dealers to service an eight year old car. Must be north of £120/hr. + VAT now?

Welcome Harri, Could I ask what your budget is so that responses will be meaningful. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Imran, But not only the cost of ‘repair’ , but whether that rectification is sortable with once-off attention, or will it need similar attention at points ongoing during your future ownership - ? I would certainly not be hanging my hat of concern on cost alone. Quality, and more importantly the lack of it is appreciated long after the price is forgotten. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Imran, Sorry to repeat, but if this were mine, my first port of call would be to nip the car over to a trusted local high end car valeter, and getting their advice. This would stand you in good stead if some monetary inducement was offered for you to think about. No amount of money will ease your ongoing discontent of living with this if it’s not permanently fixable. Kind regards, Gareth.

Have you had the battery efficiency checked Nu? Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Imran, The marks maybe removable, but just be aware that they may reappear. Let’s hope they won’t, but be cautious and you won’t be disappointed. Replacing the affected parts? I very much doubt they will actually do this. Having some money off ? Will you be happy with some money in your pocket, but with marks in the trim? Gamble - can you remove the marks, such that that they don’t reappear? Possible, but you will need reassuring - I guess. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gordon, Best bet is to search EBay for a copy of the appropriate Haynes manual. Also worth searching on line Incase you may come up with a diagram. Kind regards, Gareth.