Magnet
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Everything posted by Magnet
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Thanks Brett, Its reassuring to know that you are prepared for the dealership to rectify the unacceptable paintwork, since I sensed an up hill battle if you did not agree to allow them to do that. So it now seems it’s down the road of claiming some funds back for loss of this and that, and you will hopefully be content with it - and that is the main thing. I certainly cannot knock your sentiment of having to inform whoever subsequently takes this car in part exchange that it’s had some paint rectification. That’s your principle, and fair do s as we say in this part of the world - a rare thing to do, considering there are few vehicles on the road which haven’t had any paintwork in their lifetime. I really hope it all works out for you Brett. Kind regards, Gareth.
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Hello Dave, The fact is you have to replace this faulty component, and it’s reasonable to expect that there will be some residual moisture in the exhaust. A couple of weeks for the white smoke to disappear? If a few garages have told you that, then you have to go with that opinion. Seems a rather long period of time to me, but I will now to their experience. I guess it’s a question of replacing it , and see what happens - on the basis that you only have to worry about one thing at one time. Perhaps you would let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.
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Many thanks Brett. No, I am certainly not missing your point that you believe the dealer has acted in an unreasonable manner by not informing you, pre purchase, that this up-to-there-year old car had had a little paintwork which you failed to spot during your pre purchase inspection. You have now spotted it, and reasonably, the dealer has agreed to get it sorted to your satisfaction. You are still not satisfied (and intend to seek legal advice) since your claim is you would not have bought it if you knew it had any (in caps) paintwork, irrespective of whether that paintwork was as near to undetectable as possible. I maintain my opinion (and it it just that) that that expectation is unrealistic, when taken in the context that the car was known to be an ex demonstrator and quite likely to have had dozens, or far more drivers, any of which could have scraped the car, and I’m yet to experience -or be told about- any dealership who volunteers information about paint rectification on any secondhand car it sells. To me, Brett, it sounds as if you simply do not now want the car, even though they have agreed to rectify the painted area to your satisfaction - full stop. If that is the case then no doubt they can come to some agreement with you about returning the car and seeking an alternative which they can offer. I really hope you can resolve this, but I must say, I reserve judgement whether that resolution will be to your complete satisfaction. To me, I would allow them to attempt to rectify your dissatisfaction with the paintwork, and see what the end result will be, and if good enough, simply enjoy your new purchase. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.
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Hello Dave, ’...coolant never moved...’. Simple logic - if it isn’t losing coolant with the cooler by passed, then it cannot be burning coolant! Kind regards, Gareth.m
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Hello Dave. Thanks for being in touch with the forum, and sorry to hear of your issue. All we know is that you are losing coolant. The task now comes to finding where it is leaking, and not to assume anything (suspect head gasket included) until you have eliminated any external leaks. A basic start is to place newspaper or similar ( weighted down) under the car, following its last trip of the day, and look for wet patches in the morning. Kind regards, Gareth.
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Thanks Brett, Unfortunately business is business as they say, and the business is to attract a successful sale, and if the buyer has any discontents then sort it out, when it needs sorting. At no point, does any secondhand car salesman point out negatives with any car he, or his employers offer for sale, but they do offer a sympathetic ear in cases of issues. It would be where you go from here that would be important to me, since you cannot go backwards, and it’s reasonable to claim that if the appearance of the car had been unacceptable to you at the point of sale, then you would have raised that discontent then. Just acting as Devil’s advocate, the car was at least 18 months old when you bought it. As I said where now? I can relate experience of seeing a partial respray of a bumper of a prestigious marque car in their customer car park, by a ‘dents and scrapes’ franchise, on a literally freezing day - the end result and lasting qualities of the work?? - and that was a main dealer! Contrast that with a friend who has recently suffered two no- fault accidents on virtually new cars and had them both repaired by the different insurer’s recommended repairers. Both were superb jobs in my estimation, and I doubt whether anyone would notice any difference from the original. Are you going to entrust the rectification to the same dealer to have to a second go at this? Kind regards, Gareth.
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Hello Brett, Sorry to hear of your issue. There are a couple of points which I’m not clear on, and I wonder if you might be kind enough to clarify. It seems the car is now at least 18 months old and you bought it 3 weeks ago with a mileage of 3,500 in that minimum of 18 months. It also seems you were informed that the car was an ex-demonstrator, but in my experience demonstrators are usually only retained as such for around 6 months. Do you know the owner history of the car, and were you induced to buy it because it was an ex demonstrator - registered to the dealership? I don’t want to counter you understandable disappointment, but it might surprise how many new vehicles are subject to some degree of paint rectification at the point of import, and of course what happens to any vehicle that results in paint rectification within say 18 months, will generally only be known to the owner! Having said all that Brett, it’s reasonable to expect that the quality of any paint rectification should be near to that of the original finish, and in your case it disappoints, so my first port of call would be to get the car inspected and reported on by a trusted local bodyshop. If they agree with your view, then it’s off to the selling dealer to discuss your discontents. Perhaps you could colour in the detail and let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth. Posted after Brett’s reply.
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Sounds good Aaron, but there’s always a ‘but’! In this case, an ‘older gentleman’ suspects the head gasket, then along comes a probably ‘older, older gentleman’ ( some time since I’ve been addressed as a gentleman) and says he doesn’t think it is! I would still suggest my earlier course of action. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.
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Thanks Aaron, I’m not sure I follow your logic of suspecting it might be due to a head gasket failure, unless you are losing coolant or have coolant in the oil or vice versa. Could you let us know if it does. Blue smoke is indicative of engine oil being burnt, and likely not to have anything to do with any head gasket issues. The dear car is getting on a bit, and sounds like it may have covered an average mileage, but the symptom and it’s duration would not suggest anything major it terminal, based on age and anticipated mileage. I have a pal who has had the same issue for years with a relatively low mileage Citroen diesel, and nothing untoward has happened with that over that time. Having said that, it might be worth looking at the engine breather system to ensure all is reasonably well there, then just keep looking after the car and don’t go tearing anything major apart! Kind regards, Gareth.
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Hello Ian, How often does the car get used, and what is its typical journey when it does? I go along with Steve’s suggestion of getting the battery checked as a basic first port of call/elimination. Halfords and new batteries if it does need one?? If the car is seldom used, then I would be taking it for a minimum of a 20 mile run before having the battery tested, to ensure it has a fair degree of charge before it is tested. Kind regards, Gareth
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Petrol or diesel Aaron? Kind regards, Gareth.
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Well worth checking best discount price for VAG pads and best EBAy price for Brembo discs - when you need them - rather than having potentially £550 of parts sitting on a shelf. Kind regards, Gareth.
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Hello Oscar, The original poster joined and advertised on the same day some 2.5 years ago, and never returned to the forum from that day. As a matter of interest, what was/is the price of a set of VAG rear pads for this? I know VAG discs can be expensive, but have you considered Brembo as an alternative aftermarket disc, with the VAG pads? It is quite likely you will find a couple of Audi main dealers selling genuine pads at discount on EBay. Kind regards, Gareth.
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A/C Pressure Switch: Original part worth the cost?
Magnet replied to Sammyrai's topic in Audi A4 (B7) Forum
Hello Sammy, I wouldn’t even think twice about it! Buying cheap is usually just that, and you can end up buying twice, and paying twice to get it fitted and the system de, and re-gassed. If I was going to be tempted to buy non-VAG, then in this case, my only alternative would be Bosch, but how long has the current one lasted? Worth doing a quick division against the cost, to work out how much per year it has cost you. Kind regards, Gareth. -
What are the specified pressures for light loading for you size tyres Andrew? ‘...thought you might say that.’ Apologies, but I’m sure you will appreciate the forum cannot endorse such a recommendation. Kind regards, Gareth.
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Hello Andrew, ’Although not recommended....’ I think the forum must endorse that comment. My personal view ( probably the forum administrators as well?) is that other owners should not follow your advice and reduce the tyre pressures below the recommended settings, since it is likely to adversely affect the car’s handling. Wondered if you had yet checked the tyre wall for any indication of whether the current tyres are indeed marked anywhere with an XL symbol ( I believe Avants should be fitted with these, but I could be wrong). Also of a matter of interest and explanation - are the tyres ( rears in particular) run- flat by any chance. If this car is set up with run-flat rims, then these tyres can again add to a firm ride. What were the tyre pressures measured at before you reduced them to 26psi Andrew? Kind regards, Gareth.
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Hello Andrew, Apologies, but I think you have misunderstood. The first basic port of call must always be to check the tyre pressures - ideally when it’s been standing out of the sun - and not when it’s done a run. Refer to the recommended tyre pressures as shown on the label, usually stuck on the inside of the fuel filler flap, or if not there, as shown in the owner’s handbook. Do that, before seeking any advice from tyre retailers, since in my experience, they can come up with some different ‘arbitrary’ pressures! Set the tyre pressures according to your ‘no load’ situation recommendations, and certainly not ‘fully loaded’. This vehicle may well have been used to carry loads, and the pressures set accordingly higher. Let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.
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Many thanks Andrew, Well it seems we can discount any profile differences which might account for a harsher ride. Extra load tyres on any of the 3 cars? I would expect there to be since they are estates. As a matter of interest, Landsail are again budget, and I believe Nexen are the budget brand of a better known tyre manufacturer - but I cannot remember which one. Tyre pressures? Personally, I would not be rushing out to replace shock absorbers until more homework has been done on tyre loads and pressures. What mileage has your car covered Andrew? Perhaps Stevey can offer some guidance on the need for shock absorber replacement with his high mileage, load carrying , taxi experience. Kind regards, Gareth.
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Hello Andrew, Wheel and tyre sizes on your car? Also XL (extra load) tyres on yours? Same questions in respect to your friend’s car? Tyre pressures as currently set on both cars? Handbook recommended pressures for both vehicles - according to tyre sizes? Unserviceable shock absorbers?? I wouldn’t be considering anything in that context until you have answers to the above. Kind regards, Gareth.
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2018 1.4tfsi “didn’t need first service until now” claim by dealer
Magnet replied to Drowsy1's topic in Audi A4 (B9) Forum
Thanks Rob. If it is as he says it is, then the original leaser would have been heavily penalised for a lack of servicing when handing the car back, and the dealership were unlikely to service it and retail it - it would simply be traded out. I’m still with my gut feeling that the car had been serviced (to some extent) external to any VAG linked service logging system. Who would be daft enough to totally ignore all servicing requirements, in knowledge that they would be financially penalised at the end of lease? Having said that, company leasers may have worked out what they saved on servicing would out weigh the penalty. Kind regards, Gareth. -
Ticking/Tapping Noise Accelerating and Steering
Magnet replied to rretty's topic in Audi A4 (B8) Forum
Hello Dean, I’m sure you will appreciate that it’s virtually impossible to diagnose the actual cause of any noise without being able to inspect the vehicle - a bit like asking the dentist to explain why you have toothache in a particular tooth, without him being able to examine your teeth. Can we take it you did PM the original poster, but he did not reply? Obviously the car is trying to tell you something, and if this were mine, I would be booking it in to a trusted local garage, who will be able to inspect it, and should come up with a diagnosis. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth. -
If this were me, I would be searching for any recalls in the States. Kind regards, Gareth.
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2018 1.4tfsi “didn’t need first service until now” claim by dealer
Magnet replied to Drowsy1's topic in Audi A4 (B9) Forum
Thanks Rob, I think Richard’s advice to be careful, warrants respect. ‘One owner, haven’t seen the V5 yet’. Disbelieve anything you are told until you actually have the hard evidence in sight. You won’t go too far wrong if you follow that principle. My gut feeling for what it is worth - and I could be well off the mark - this car may have been on a PCP lease, and the person leasing it may not have wanted to pay main dealer prices for servicing, and being mean!, and accepting it was not being kept beyond the 3 years, decided to take the cheapest option with regard to whatever servicing ( if any) was carried out. It could (in caps) have been serviced by any number of outlets who weren’t linked to the VAG system, so the servicing record could not have been recorded in VAG’s system, and there aren’t service books any more. No main dealer service history, but any retained receipts? Others at independents? Are you actually certain from the ‘small print’ that the main dealer warranty is any more comprehensive? Anyway, realistically, I think there is a fair chance that you will be convinced to buy it, irrespective, since logic suggests Rob, you would otherwise automatically discount it. Good luck with whatever you decide, and perhaps you would let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. The full story rests with the one-owner, so attempt to contact that person. Reg. April and first service in March, suggests it was first serviced when it was handed back in at the end of its 3 year lease. -
2018 1.4tfsi “didn’t need first service until now” claim by dealer
Magnet replied to Drowsy1's topic in Audi A4 (B9) Forum
Hello Rob, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. Exactly how old is this car you are going to be looking at? As I understand it, the car can either be set on a Longlife schedule - usually if it covers a reasonably mileage - and generally the servicing comes around at c18k miles, or c18 months. The alternative is an annual service schedule where lower than average mileages are covered. If this car has covered 17k in xmonths since new, then you can work out how many services it should have had at a minimum. Do you know the history of ownership of the car? Surely there must be others about that could be considered, since the explanation you are being given sounds like ‘a salesman’s excuse’. Kind regards, Gareth. -
Hello Gerry, Independents can often be as expensive as the main dealer, particularly where dealers have promotion on such work - as they do. ‘Official’ independents usually use only VAG parts, so that will be fine if that is the case. Local garages tend to use whatever brand of parts they can obtain at best prices from their local supplying factors, and in my book, the quality of the parts used is of vital importance - particularly in respect of water pumps, where my choice is always main dealer only, with no exceptions. Kind regards, Gareth.