Magnet

Many thanks Steve and Cliff, I understand what you say about putting new bushes in my arms, but there are a number of restrictors making this impractical. I would not confidently reuse these 15 year old arms without having a facility to grit blast them, since I’m yet to find any amount of rubbing down and treating, to be a permanent solution to rust. The main issue here is that the old three score and ten has long since passed, and I’ve been ‘banned’ from carrying what would be termed ‘heavy get out and get under’ work! Consequently, I’m getting this done by a local free lance mechanic, and obviously his time is at cost, so it’s a question of simply fitting best quality for money parts. I will be checking with Febi tomorrow to see if they do the pressed steel ones as well, and also looking at Lemforder, and some branded Moog - who are new to me, but I understand have been about for as long as I have, and may now be part of Federal Mogul - I think. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Cliff, The cast ( forged) ones come complete with the offending bushes and the ball joint, with the Febi ones. Having used Febi as alternative aftermarket I have confidence in the quality of the bushes and the joint. The pressed steel ones are generally of unknown origin, and although I am not too concerned with the integrity of the structural metal, I am certainly concerned about the quality and anticipated service life of the bushes, hence the query about whether the forged are/aren’t actually interchangeable. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello folks, I could do with some been-there-done-that advice regarding the above. A couple of the bushes are showing signs of wear, so I’m intending to renew the arms . Current ones are pressed steel, and understandably are showing signs of rusting, so conclude its better to renew the arms now, rather than just the bushes. Problem:- Seems cast arms are available, and the intention was to use Febi Bilstein replacements, but now understand that they don’t interchange with the original steel ones. Steel ones are less readily available unless you use ‘unbranded’ ones ( cheaper) - some being advertised as being of German origin, but I’m reluctant to dip my toe into these without some experience. Questions:- Has anyone attempted to fitted cast arms as replacements for steel, and are they indeed not interchangeable -as I’ve been advised? Where replacement steel ones have been fitted, has anyone come up with reasonable aftermarket alternatives such as perhaps Lemforder or Meyle, and if so, any advice on competitive sources? Many thanks, Gareth.

Hello Arron, If you want genuine parts at discount then I would be following my advice and start searching EBay for Audi dealers who are selling there with a discount. As I say, Aberdeen Audi (ask for Malcolm) were one who were offering discounted prices - and will mail order. You will have to go on EBay to look for Brembo discs anyway - so one stop search. ‘.....speak to some local dealers ....’ . You might stand as much chance of getting a discount as I have of getting my hair back! I really wouldn’t waste their time and yours. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mohammad, Sorry to hear of your problem. I think your action from here depends on how long you’ve owned the car and what service you’ve had from it. In other words, if you’ve owned it for some time, and ‘had some money’s worth’ out of it, it might be better to cut your losses and buy something else with the the money you would spend on getting this fixed. You probably don’t need anyone to point out that the anticipated expenditure will exceed the current value of the car, so any decision should not be taken lightly, but of course, no one on here is privy to your circumstances. I can only really wish you good luck in whatever you decide to do. Kind regards, Gareth.

Methods of buying have multiplied since I had hair, when you always bought locally - without exception. I may be old fashioned ( well actually I know I am), but what puts me off with buying sight-unseen at a distance, is the validity/ practicality of any warranties. Who wants to undertake say a 200 mile round trip back to the seller to get something rectified under warranty - just simply impractical. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Arron, For a normal - non competitive - driving style, I simply stick with main dealer pads, generally available at discount from dealers such as Aberdeen Audi etc. (check EBay for similar listings). We did deviate once to what were then considered to be ‘reasonable’ quality aftermarket, but these were replaced after only a couple of months use due to the braking efficiency being well below that of the genuine Audi - so never again! Discs? Genuine VAG can be expensive, so I would suggest a premium brand such as Brembo.- again sourced via. EBay. This combination has stood us in good stead. Hope this helps. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gordon, Thanks for coming back on this. I’m sure you more than anyone, will appreciate the difficulties/impossibilities? of trying to diagnose the cause/s of such issues without examining the patient! All you going to end up on here with ( with all due respect) is a list of could be this/I had that with my car etc. The fact is that the car is trying to tell you something, and it now needs to be examined by a recommended ‘specialist consultant’. If this were mine, I would be concentrating my efforts on researching recommended garages in your area - not necessarily Audi specialists - but an establishment where you can talk to the principals, in person, and go through everything with them. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Gordon. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gordon, I think valuable clues lye in the fact that this can be felt through the brake pedal, and that it seems to have disappeared for 2 months ( the longest symptom free period) when the brake discs and pads were renewed. What make discs and pads were used? I ask the question since your description smacks of symptoms of warped brake discs. If this were mine, I would be wanting to check the run-out on the discs as they are now, in their installed state, and if found to be warped, I would be extremely fussy to ensure the mating surface of the hub - where the disc fits - is scrupulously clean and sound. If genuine VAG discs haven’t/aren’t going to be used, then I would opt for Brembo, and not be very keen to use anything else. When fitting new pads, I would be again be very fussy to check that the caliper sliding pins were clean, suitably lubricated, and we’re moving freely. All of this would be my starting point, unless anyone else sees anything untoward on inspection. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello S?? I think you are right in concluding the rich mixture is an assumption. Personally, I not a fan of changing two things at the same time, but... Like the reference to using FedEx, Steve, but will it deliver the correct result?? Welcome back by the way. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Arron, My procedure:- Assess the coolant level when cold - ideally when left to stand overnight. Top up to the max. mark. Use the car and inspect the level the following morning when cold. Should still be at the same level. Kind regards, Gareth.

Really surprising nobody wants this. It’s still sitting on the shelf, and not being destined for a good home, where it will be put to good use. If anyone wants it then please message me with what you consider to be a reasonable offer. Postage is possible. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ann, Sorry to hear of your issues. Pressure washers and cars simply don’t mix, and to my mind they should be avoided, due to the pressure they exert on potentially delicate paintwork, fabrics and particularly any piece of electronics. I’m not sure why owners use them on cars and expect minimal damage, when the average householder has witnessed what the generated pressure can do for their patio! I would say that if anyone contemplates using them on cars, they might like to consider using them as an alternative to a shower! Still..... I cannot claim this is the cause of your issue, but hoods generally are operated via. a number of delicate micro switches, and it’s possible that moisture has infiltrated one or more of these. Just a reasonable possibility - you may find that things return to normal in a couple of weeks as things dry out. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Vdm, Batteries can be the source of all sorts of issues, but surely in your case, where you have fault codes for steering angle sensors etc, that is where you should be looking. ECPare still attracting buyers then due to their continual discount codes. Good, isn’t it? Discount codes are fine, and up to 60% off may sound great, but 60% off what so called retail price. It’s what you eventually pay is the only important point, not the supposed x% off. In fact, it is not uncommon to be able to buy the same component cheaper via. their associate - Car parts for Less - even when C4L are discounting at a much lower %! Great marketing.

Hello George, Ruville I’ve never heard off, but sounds Continental, so guess it makes sense. Ina are bearing manufacturers, but as far as I’m aware, not belt manufacturers - so who makes their belts?? The answer should lie with you independent, if they have bought these kits previously. Gates were using INA tensioners and idlers in their kits kits - which would make sense since they are quality bearing suppliers. The all important water pump? Are you sure this isn’t available from VAG? Have you tried? Water pumps included in belt kits worry me. Kind regards, Gareth.

Tyres are new Richard.

Hello Steve, Chances are that the battery has more than done it’s time at that age - even though it starts the car. Modern cars are very susceptible to battery condition, and the old marker of ‘it starts the car’ , really no longer applies. Don’t assume it’s serviceable, so get it tested. Yes, Halfords were doing testing. Buying a replacement from Halfords?? Personally not for me - a couple of issues with ones I’ve had, and that’s before you consider the price! For me, I only buy Varta/Bosch on line from specialist suppliers, at the most competitive price, with a minimum of 4 year warranty. Suppliers include: - Battery Megastore, Tayna - there are more. Beware, strangely, some charge you carriage if bought direct, but sell off EBay at the same price with free delivery! Why?? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello George, You raise a very well worth asking question. If VAG parts are no longer available, then the only aftermarket kit I would use would be Gates, since these were OE suppliers to a number of motor manufacturers. The next all important choice is the water pump, and the quality of this is critical. Appreciating Gates do kits including water pumps, I would only use a non-VAG pump as an absolute last resort. Do VAG still list a pump for your car? - if so, I would only go for that. If not, you are indeed in trouble, since some (many?) aftermarket pumps are of dubious quality. Using a Gates kit to inc. the water pump?? Gates only make belts, but you would expect that the quality of the supplied water pumps would be as good as their belts, but......... Not been there and done that, but SKF seem to market pumps, and they were/are manufacturers quality bearings - the weak point with aftermarket pumps - so could be worth a try. Perhaps you would let us know what you decide. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, I seem to recall a similar post within the last 18 months or so, so worth doing a search. Re. - only owned it for 24 hours..... Did you buy it from a dealer? If so, it should be returned for the dealer to sort it. If not, and you have to resort to sorting it, as you have found, the assembly is just ‘unfriendly located’ and I would suggest the car is placed in the hands of a trusted independent who will have the necessary experience of exactly what to get and how to fit it - otherwise it’s likely to be a right fiddle. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, CTek are well respected, and all credit to you for making sure you use the right type of ‘intelligent’ charger for AGM batteries. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve ( Blackburn) When you say the battery is in great condition, can you confirm it is not the original, if not, how old it is, what the brand is, and what your test results were? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andy, This could be as simple as the folding mechanism needing some assisted lubrication - try a little WD40 as a start. if indeed you do have switch issues ( which would be unusual) then if you don’t have the knowledge or equipment to check that, then you would be best advised to buy an hour’s labour with a trusted local auto electrician. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Charlotte, Many thanks for being in touch with the forum, and sorry to hear of your issue. When you say the car won’t go more than 40mph, could you confirm that if you attempt to increase that speed, the engine revs. increase, but the car doesn’t accelerate - as would be typical of clutch slip. Also that the car will indeed go above 40 mph down hill, but possibly not even 40 -up hill. Others may confirm or refute, but I think I recall a similar issue with another forum member within the last 18months. What to do from here if it actually clutch slip:- Continue to badger Audi for a sensible resolution - which may include a partial payment towards the costs. Take a small claims court action against the dealer you bought it from. ( CAB should be able to advise). If these fail, then it could be a matter of biting the bullet and getting it sorted at an independent - possibly using the far cheaper LUK aftermarket parts. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Zack, Simple things first:- The lower the profile ( the 60, 45 etc. bit) the harsher the ride will be, and to increase your wheel diameter the you are going to have to lower the profile, so that the outside diameter of wheel plus tyre remains the same as your current 60 profile 185 15 inch wheels. You can work it out by adding 2 x (60% of 185mm) to 15 inches - converted to mm. (1 inch = 25.4mm). Audi have really worked it out for you, in terms of acceptable larger-wheel alternatives, which you have listed. Messing about with alternative tyre sizes because they are cheaper ( due to popularity) can be a recipe for disaster and seldom works out, either economically - since you have to buy the larger wheels, or comfort-wise, due to lower profiles, or indeed with the insurance implications for fitting non standard wheels and tyres. In answer to ‘...will 205 be too wide..’ No, since Audi list up to 225. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Zack, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. You raise a good question, since simply swopping wheel and tyre sizes is not at all straightforward in terms of acceptability - and that’s before you consider the insurance liability by fitting such non standard critical items. Can you start by letting us know the current tyre size, and confirm this is a listed size for your model. Kind regards, Gareth.