Magnet

Thanks Ashley, You can buy mechanical assistance on the basis of a mechanic is a mechanic, is a mechanic, and you can keep going back to him ( or a number of such) and simply pay again and again for non specialist knowledge. You use the term ‘specialist’ and infer they are likely to be expensive. Not always the case, but they will specialise in your engine, and will know where to focus in a far quicker route - or you keep paying numerous small bills. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Michael, Apparently the air temperature sensor is incorporated in the MAP sensor, so that was changed to sort the issue. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Pete. It’s a great help if such information is provided within the initial post, to negate the need to suggesting avenues already tried. Try registering your want on Partsfinder etc. - there are more. Kind regards, Gareth.

Why don’t you entrust this to a trusted local diesel specialist Ashley? Far better than A.N. Other unknown normal mechanic. Ask a friendly taxi driver for a recommendation - they usually know where to go. Start by having an hour’s checking of the issue. Kind regards, Gareth.

Daft question Pete, but tried the Audi dealerships??

New or secondhand Pete? If secondhand, then register your want on on line breaker links, as has been suggested on here on numerous occasions. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Raymond, Thanks for being in touch. On back to first principles - first check the compressions on each cylinder and report back. If they are all acceptable then you would appear to have reasonably covered mechanical damage issues. I’m certainly not claiming this is your issue, it could be something like a camshaft position sensor which might also have been a victim of the whole damage scene. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks for coming back with the very useful update Richard. The lesson here is that you can have a service book stamped to the hilt, and assume that this is the be all and end all of a ‘good vehicle’, whereas in reality, it can just equate to an odd morning out on a ramp. You just cannot beat a discussion with the previous owner. Back to this car. Would I automatically discount it? Not before getting an estimate of how much oil this car is consuming in say 1,000 miles (I’m sure the previous owner will advise). If not frightening, then I would be asking myself how inconvenient and expensive this is going to be over say a year’s use. The car is 11 years old, and if all good in other respects, then what difference is adding some oil going to make to its overall enjoyment? At least you know the issue with this one. Refunding deposit:- I think you may well find that technically deposits are non refundable, so you could have an argument on your hands. Probably well worthwhile taking advice from CAB. Kind regards, Gareth.

I would suggest you don’t assume that ‘new’ = serviceable, until proved to be so. Not wishing to appear critical, but why allow an engine to run its coolant up to a totally unacceptable 130 degrees, and allow steam to come from the engine, before deciding to slow down/pull over/get off at next junction? Chances are it is now likely that you have done some mischief to the engine/ coolant system, and that this possibly recently caused issue will be taken to be the reason for the original overheating - when it may not have been. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Karen, If this were mine, I would be getting this looked at without delay - the car is trying to tell you something. Obviously, brake pads would be the first thing to look at, but........just get someone to check it over pronto. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Ashley, Still some unanswered questions, such as - are you going to get the coolant system pressure tested, what quality parts were used in the thermostat, water pump, cambelt change? How much coolant is being used in say 100 miles? Kind regards, Gareth.

Let us know how you get on Gareth.

Hello Steve, Thanks for being in touch. Um! Actually disconnecting connections under the seats? Braver than me, since you are likely to come across seat belt pretensioner connections under there - often linked to air bags - and I wouldn’t fiddle without knowledgeable confidence. Spraying (proper) contact cleaner on the connected connectors and wiggling them yes, but anything more?? Where to go now? On a DIY basis, invest in some contact cleaner and find the appropriate fuse ( refer to handbook) for the heated seats, and without removing the fuse ( unless blown), spay the area with the cleaner, and wiggle the fuse in its holder. If that doesn’t do anything then I would think you would be wise to employ an hour’s services of a trusted local auto electrician, since fiddling with electrics may not be the way forward. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andy, Thanks for coming back. Did you by it from an Audi dealership? Possibly not, due to it being slightly too old. If yes, forget about the air filter if (could be in caps) they changed it, so worth a no-expense look at it anyway. If it didn’t come to you directly from the main dealer, then I would be replacing the air filter with a genuine VAG one anyway as an assurance starting point, incase it either wasn’t changed at all, or if it was, it was repacked with a brand x aftermarket one. Have a word with Malcolm in Parts Dept at Aberdeen Audi. Lovely helpful chap, and he may give you a discount! Its possible there is something at fault, but always worth starting at base points. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Michael, The code on this family member’s A4 was read using a Snap On reader, so no cheap kit! When I couldn’t find any such component, the person who diagnosed it had it back, and as I understand it, it came back fixed. I think I may be able to find out what the offender was in the end, but it could take a few days of enquiring. Can you leave that with me and I will post the outcome on this thread? Incase it helps, I understand the EML was on with this car for a couple of months before it was fixed - with no ill effects. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. I could do with your bodywork skills down here to sort a small ding on an 18k miles, 30 year old Metro. Completed the repair with aerosols, but crazed after a few months. Similar using same paint source with a small area on the A3. Never had any such issue with same technique in well over 50 years. Appreciate there are many reasons why this can happen, but the only thing different is the mixed paint source. Still, hopefully Percy Verance will come to my aid!

Hello Kate, Thanks for being in touch. Its almost impossible to visualise what concerns you without viewing the car. If this were mine, I would be returning to the repairer, armed with a photo of the same model year, which does not show the offending bracket. They will be duty bound to sort this to your satisfaction. Perhaps you can let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andy, All vehicles smell rich on start up, as you would expect them to do, since they are running on an enriched mixture until they get up to operating temperature. If you feel this is indeed different from what it used to be, then indeed there may be something wrong. Simple things first:- when did you last change the air filter? Lets move from there on a step by step basis. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ashley, You first need to find yourself a recommended local mechanic. If this were mine, I would be doing two things in this order: - Get the coolant system pressure checked. If reasonably acceptable then on the basis of simple things first, renew the thermostat, but only renew with a genuine VAG one. If you find this to be too expensive ( even with buying at discount) and you feel inclined not to buy once and wisely, then only buy one of the top aftermarket brands. Whatever you buy, I would be testing the new thermostat to ensure it opens at the correct temperature before fitting. You will probably experience opposition to that from most mechanics, but it will reap benefits. If anyone considers dunking it in boiling water to be an adequate test, then find another mechanic, or test it yourself - I can tell you how, if you are serious in going to this length. If a new thermostat doesn’t sort out the problem - and it may not - then you will be in for more testing, but just let us know. Petrol or diesel by the way? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gareth, Any such noise must be considered serious, either in terms of the current cause, or the potential for catastrophic failure of another component . If this were mine, I would be getting the auxiliary belt removed as a matter of urgency, to see if this influences or eliminated the noise. Further, I would not be using this until this issue is sorted. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ashley, Some more information needed:- How long have you owned the car, and roughly how many miles have you covered in it? - to give an idea of how long you have put up with this non-heater issue. Have you previously needed to top up the coolant reservoir, before this motorway incident? Has the temperature gauge gone above the 90 mark before your motorway incident? Does it go above 90 now - on non motorway journeys, and do you have to keep topping up the coolant? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Michael, I had exactly the same issue with a family 2015 A4 diesel. Ok. the fault code showed that’s what was at fault, but it didn’t have one either! I would need to investigate what the fault actually was after. Plugging in code readers can lead owners up expensive dead end roads. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Richard, The often quoted advice is that if you want to tick all the boxes, then you write out a cheque out for a new one! Every car you view will be imperfect in some respect. To be fair, this 1 owner car would seem worth following up on to me, and yes, if you have to turn up at a front door, then that might be what you will have to do. Question? Is it worth dismissing, in comparison to doing some homework? Only you will know that. Are you likely to find one which appears to be better, and will the ‘homework digging’ be any more straightforward with that? Just some thoughts. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Richard, The ‘proper’ history of this car and potential faults lies with the previous keeper, and does not lie with the pages of a stamped service book. I don’t want to appear pessimistic, but simply to open the ‘in-love’ eyes, before committing. If I were in your situation, I would be attempting to contact the previous owner, and if the seller won’t help then it’s worth asking yourself why. Even the location of the last MOT can sometimes lead you to the owner. If you have a ( understandable?) concern regarding this car using oil, then I would question why the seller? has serviced this car before finding a buyer. The don’t normally, and simply await a buyer, and then service it. Was it very low on oil before coming in to them, for example? Doing homework is the key here. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. Looking at the age of your car, and taking note of the symptoms, I would first be wanting to eliminate the battery as the source of your issues - but it wouldn’t surprise me that it is the culprit. Do you know if the car is still running on its original battery? If it were mine, I would be taking it for an ‘essential journey’ of at least 10 miles, then getting the battery efficiency checked - Hartfords were/are doing this - although 2 points:- I’ve known batteries to pass the old ‘drop test’, but still be sub standard in terms of cold cranking limits etc. Also, if the battery is found to be at fault, what replacement do you buy? For me, it has to be Varta/Bosch ( generally the OE supplier’s), and I buy from specialist on- line suppliers such as Battery Megastore, Tanya etc. and I only buy the grade which has a minimum of a 4 year warranty. Look on suppliers EBay sites, where you normally get free delivery. Oder direct from them, and you generally don’t! Why?? Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth. h.

Hello Emily, Thanks for posting, but personally, I would not be listing my phone number on an open forum. You could ask enquirers to contact you by PM, as an alternative. Please let me know if you would like me to delete your post, and you can re-run it. Kind regards, Gareth.